I blame this in part to the size drum they put on these light weight trailers. Mine are ten inches across the inside center. We are careful to load light for trips, despite the 2900 lb carrying capacity which leaves me to believe the Dexter axles are way under par for this trailer which weighs about 7000 empty.
Final piece of advice on those lube zerk fittings, if you over lube them you can blow the grease seal and put grease all over the brake shoes which trashes them. Our last RV came from the factory that way! Better to re-pack the old fashioned way.
Superbee Jim wrote:
My Dexter axle was ruined and I had to replace the entire axle because of lack of lube to the bearings. I just helped 2 of my friends grease there bearings and if you only pump a few times, it will not lube the outer bearings. After you use the bulk of a tube of grease and fill the entire hub cavity and see it coming out the end by the outer bearing, will you know that both bearings have been greased. Both my friends didn't realize that just a few pumps wont do it until grease comes out by the outer bearing. That is what Dexter recommends.
My Dexter axle was ruined and I had to replace the entire axle because of lack of lube to the bearings. I just helped 2 of my friends grease there bearings and if you only pump a few times, it will not lube the outer bearings. After you use the bulk of a tube of grease and fill the entire hub cavity and see it coming out the end by the outer bearing, will you know that both bearings have been greased. Both my friends didn't realize that just a few pumps wont do it until grease comes out by the outer bearing. That is what Dexter recommends.
^^x2^^
For Dexter axles you need to lift the tire off the ground and spin it while hand pumping grease into the zerk. Once grease comes out then you know the job is done. Using a pneumatic grease gun or just pumping grease in without spinning the tire "might" blow the grease seal.
You may have another issue going on for why the wheel came off though other then grease. You may have had a faulty bearing/race or something completely different like loose lug nuts or undersized engineering.
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed
2014 Primetime Crusader 296BHS
2015 GMC 2500HD Denali
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar
Anyway, my problem was attributed to either improper torque on my lug nuts, or bad lugs.
2012 RAM 3500 Laramie Longhorn DRW CC 4x4 Max Tow, Cummins HO, 60 gallon RDS aux fuel tank, Reese 18k Elite hitch
2003 Dodge Ram 3500 QC SB 4x4 Cummins HO NV5600 with Smarty JR, Jacobs EB (sold)
2002 Gulf Stream Sea Hawk 29FRB with Honda EV6010
When you have enough grease pumped in you will see it start to come out around the outer bearing. At that point there's a 50/50 chance you have grease on the brakes.
garyemunson wrote:
Using a grease gun to grease wheel bearing has always been, despite Bearing Buddy and all the other's claims, a poor way to grease wheel bearings. The problem is that as Jim said, the entire cavity must become filled before grease reaches the far bearing. From then on, each time more is pumped in, what greases the far bearing is the old grease that's been drying out in the hub cavity. Far better to go the extra mile, remove the hub, and hand pack both bearings, allowing you to actually inspect the bearings for rust or other damage. Seals are cheap and a new one at the same time assures water and dirt will stay out until the next time you service the axle. Pumping grease in until it oozes out also runs the risk of dislodging the seal. In addition, with the cavity fully packed with grease, as the hub warms up, grease and trapped air will expand pushing more grease out making a mess of the inner sidewall of the tires (and brakes) and causing confusion as to whether the seal is really bad. Properly hand packed bearings and fresh seal will result in clean tires and a timely warning (leaking grease) if something is amiss with the axle. A real problem is that adjusting wheel bearings is becoming a lost art. Most upcoming mechanics are only familiar with sealed bearings now that virtually all autos and most trucks are equipped with sealed bearings on all four wheels. You can read all the books you want but nothing takes the place of an experienced mechanic teaching you by letting you feel the difference between too loose, too tight, and just right bearing adjustment. Sadly many current wrench turners never got that memo.
Using a grease gun to grease wheel bearing has always been, despite Bearing Buddy and all the other's claims, a poor way to grease wheel bearings. The problem is that as Jim said, the entire cavity must become filled before grease reaches the far bearing. From then on, each time more is pumped in, what greases the far bearing is the old grease that's been drying out in the hub cavity. Far better to go the extra mile, remove the hub, and hand pack both bearings, allowing you to actually inspect the bearings for rust or other damage. Seals are cheap and a new one at the same time assures water and dirt will stay out until the next time you service the axle. Pumping grease in until it oozes out also runs the risk of dislodging the seal. In addition, with the cavity fully packed with grease, as the hub warms up, grease and trapped air will expand pushing more grease out making a mess of the inner sidewall of the tires (and brakes) and causing confusion as to whether the seal is really bad. Properly hand packed bearings and fresh seal will result in clean tires and a timely warning (leaking grease) if something is amiss with the axle. A real problem is that adjusting wheel bearings is becoming a lost art. Most upcoming mechanics are only familiar with sealed bearings now that virtually all autos and most trucks are equipped with sealed bearings on all four wheels. You can read all the books you want but nothing takes the place of an experienced mechanic teaching you by letting you feel the difference between too loose, too tight, and just right bearing adjustment. Sadly many current wrench turners never got that memo.
2006 Chevy 3500 Dually 6.6 Duramax Diesel & Allison Transmission
2010 Northshore 28RK by Dutchmen
Our first fifth wheel!!!
Being a senior member you have had to see previous posts why it's a good idea to inspect them, and failures of such bearings.
Blindly just pumping grease in is a big mistake!
I also jack up each wheel and spin and wiggle looking for problems before the long trip between Arizona and Washington. This is going to be easier with the new trailer with 6 point jacks.
Chris
2021 F150 2.7 Ecoboost - Summer Home 2017 Bighorn 3575el. Can Am Spyder RT-L Chrome, Kawasaki KRX1000. Retired and enjoying it! RIP DW 07-05-2021
"Never trust a man who has not a single redeeming vice" WSC
2011 RAM 3500 SRW
2015 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS
Me Again wrote:
We had our Cardinal for 11 years and 50 or 60K miles. Every two to three years I removed each wheel and hub to inspect and service the bearings. When we sold it, it still have the original bearings and races.
Blindly just pumping grease in is a big mistake!
I also jack up each wheel and spin and wiggle looking for problems before the long trip between Arizona and Washington. This is going to be easier with the new trailer with 6 point jacks.
Chris
We had our Cardinal for 11 years and 50 or 60K miles. Every two to three years I removed each wheel and hub to inspect and service the bearings. When we sold it, it still have the original bearings and races.
Blindly just pumping grease in is a big mistake!
I also jack up each wheel and spin and wiggle looking for problems before the long trip between Arizona and Washington. This is going to be easier with the new trailer with 6 point jacks.
Chris
X2!
Blindly pumping grease in to FILL to cavity is the fastest way to grease the brake shoes!!
Had pack the bearing, place a thick coating of grease on the race and that is all you need.
wilber1 wrote:
I've always hand packed my bearings and have never had a bearing problem. Touch wood. Except of course for Lippert axles which come from the factory with grease leaking all over the brakes.
I've always hand packed my bearings and have never had a bearing problem. Touch wood. Except of course for Lippert axles which come from the factory with grease leaking all over the brakes.
Yep, bearings need to be cleaned and inspected and repacked every couple years
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#
"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"
Road Phantom wrote:
The brakes, including backing plates were replaced new last summer.
Poor workmanship.The brakes, including backing plates were replaced new last summer.
Should last at least 10 years or 50,000 miles if done properly.
And the sooner you stop using the grease gun the better.
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up
This was caused by just pumping grease in every year, and not inspecting the bearings.
I would never use a grease fitting to fill my hub, and bearings. I also have a 20 year old ski boat trailer that has oil bath bearings that are original.
Dan
2019 Chevy crew LTZ 2500 HD Duramax
2017 Wildcat 29rlx fifth wheel
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/scratchead.gif "scratchead")
. Second are you sure you're filling every nook and cranny with grease that is not under pressure? And third, do you also do this amount of effort on your car/truck. If so how many miles do you rack up before pulling the bearings on your daily drivers?
Hammerboy wrote:
You hand packers, how often do you have it done? Do you go by time or miles? This is something I've never done and don't want to experiment with either without someone experienced showing me first.
Dan
You hand packers, how often do you have it done? Do you go by time or miles? This is something I've never done and don't want to experiment with either without someone experienced showing me first.
Dan
Watch a few videos on youtube, it's not that hard, honest. The trickiest part in my opinion is the castle nut.
After about 25,000 miles I took a look at my bearings, and found some heat-stains or whatever they're called on a few rollers, so I went to NAPA and got a new set for both wheels. I've put another 16,000 on since then? Probably will look at them again spring of 2018.
The actual packing is easy but messy. Get a tub of grease, scoop some into the palm of your left hand, and then scoop through the grease with the bearing raceway. Turn and repeat several times, until plenty of grease is jammed into the raceway. Sit that one down and cover with a shop towel, and do the next one. You want to keep dust and debris from blowing and getting stuck in the fresh grease, you'll have to clean it and start over if this happens.
John&Joey wrote:
For all of you that have to inspect the bearings. First do you really know what you're looking at. Second are you sure you're filling every nook and cranny with grease that is not under pressure? And third, do you also do this amount of effort on your car/truck. If so how many miles do you rack up before pulling the bearings on your daily drivers?
For all of you that have to inspect the bearings. First do you really know what you're looking at
. Second are you sure you're filling every nook and cranny with grease that is not under pressure? And third, do you also do this amount of effort on your car/truck. If so how many miles do you rack up before pulling the bearings on your daily drivers?Sealed bearings on my car and truck, Did my car at 120k miles - that took forever, the dealership can do it next time if I still own the car. The truck is under warranty, if it has bearing issues while I still own it, that's Fiat's problem.
Hammerboy wrote:
You hand packers, how often do you have it done? Do you go by time or miles? This is something I've never done and don't want to experiment with either without someone experienced showing me first.
Dan
You hand packers, how often do you have it done? Do you go by time or miles? This is something I've never done and don't want to experiment with either without someone experienced showing me first.
Dan
Nothing to be afraid of! Very simple process that just takes a bit of time. It is something you should learn to do if you are going to tow a trailer.
Click here for a detailed post, complete with pictures, on how to accomplish the task.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine
But when I had vehicles before the 1970 model year and drum brakes I would pull the drums every two years to check brake linings, clean and repack the bearings with new grease seals.
About the same schedule I do with my trailer.
Clicky
John&Joey wrote:
I swear I'm an old soak also, but for Pete's sake at least I can see a better way of doing things. You guys got to step up your game to at least this century.
Clicky
I swear I'm an old soak also, but for Pete's sake at least I can see a better way of doing things. You guys got to step up your game to at least this century.
Clicky
Marketing is great and at the same time why do the ez-lubes have problems 10 to 1 over manually packed bearings?
Proper hand pack should last the life of the shoes.
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/RCQRsJql.jpg)
* This post was last edited 04/11/17 06:53pm by an administrator/moderator *
John&Joey wrote:
I swear I'm an old soak also, but for Pete's sake at least I can see a better way of doing things. You guys got to step up your game to at least this century.
Clicky
I swear I'm an old soak also, but for Pete's sake at least I can see a better way of doing things. You guys got to step up your game to at least this century.
Clicky
This conversation started because the OP lost a wheel/drum assembly on an easy lube axle. I may be an "old salt" also but sometimes new technology isn't what it is supposed to be. Hand lubing and inspecting still has merit. I have Dexter Never Lube axles and don't feel comfortable not being able to look at the bearings.
John&Joey wrote:
I swear I'm an old soak also, but for Pete's sake at least I can see a better way of doing things. You guys got to step up your game to at least this century.
Clicky
And that's what failed if you read the post. People even explained why they fail.
I swear I'm an old soak also, but for Pete's sake at least I can see a better way of doing things. You guys got to step up your game to at least this century.
Clicky
The OP's situation scared me. After thinking about the conversation, its been 10 years on my bearing. So I have a few questions.
What do you use to clean the old grease from the bearing? Do you use brake clean or some other liquid. I don't have a parts washer. What grease do you recommend.
Ron
Ron and Sue
If Wisdom is a virtue of old age then gravity is its vice.
Desist from numerically calculating fowls which have failed to fully realized their proper incubation period.
BiggestRon wrote:
Hey gang,
The OP's situation scared me. After thinking about the conversation, its been 10 years on my bearing. So I have a few questions.
What do you use to clean the old grease from the bearing? Do you use brake clean or some other liquid. I don't have a parts washer. What grease do you recommend.
Ron
Hey gang,
The OP's situation scared me. After thinking about the conversation, its been 10 years on my bearing. So I have a few questions.
What do you use to clean the old grease from the bearing? Do you use brake clean or some other liquid. I don't have a parts washer. What grease do you recommend.
Ron
A lot of the grease can be cleaned out with paper towels. Roll the bearings on the towels to get most of the grease then use brake cleaner. I'm using Lucas red sticky grease
No matter how a bearing is greased, if it isn't adjusted correctly and washer and cotter pin are in place, the thing will fail. That is why the ops tire fell off. I see no picture, but from the explanation it has nothing to do with the drum. Either the spindle overheated and broke or the nut backed off. Doesn't matter how it is greased, just matters that it gets greased. Ez lube axles create a false sense that everything is fine in my opinion.
Op, in the future take your trailer to a qualified technician and pay him/her to service the axles. Then leave them alone for a couple years (well, jack up tire, spin and check for looseness/noise every few trips, but don't grease with ez lube).
Labman7 wrote:
Reminds me of when cars went to electronic ignition. For years if it didn't have points and a condenser, it wasn't reliable. Can't trust that new fancy stuff. LOL.
Actually I had one of the first year cars that went to electronic ignition. Chrysler came out with it first and I did have trouble with it. They had problems diagnosing the problem because it was intermittent. I'm grateful they corrected the design flaws to give us a modern reliable product.Reminds me of when cars went to electronic ignition. For years if it didn't have points and a condenser, it wasn't reliable. Can't trust that new fancy stuff. LOL.
I like new technology but it doesn't always work as designed.
I have always been about new technology. EZ-lube is not about better technology... only the illusion of lower maintenance.
The real problem with cars as they went electronic ignition was all the vacuum controlled emissions and poorly designed egr that came at the same time.
Road Phantom wrote:
I made a turn into a shopping center parking lot, looked back and saw one of my trailer wheels lying in the middle of the road. We have a 2011 Cougar half-ton 5th wheel. The brakes, including backing plates were replaced new last summer. I greased the bearings via the outer zerk fittings this Feb. All this and the bearing failed, breaking the drum. the wheel came off along with the broken drum.
I blame this in part to the size drum they put on these light weight trailers. Mine are ten inches across the inside center. We are careful to load light for trips, despite the 2900 lb carrying capacity which leaves me to believe the Dexter axles are way under par for this trailer which weighs about 7000 empty.
I made a turn into a shopping center parking lot, looked back and saw one of my trailer wheels lying in the middle of the road. We have a 2011 Cougar half-ton 5th wheel. The brakes, including backing plates were replaced new last summer. I greased the bearings via the outer zerk fittings this Feb. All this and the bearing failed, breaking the drum. the wheel came off along with the broken drum.
I blame this in part to the size drum they put on these light weight trailers. Mine are ten inches across the inside center. We are careful to load light for trips, despite the 2900 lb carrying capacity which leaves me to believe the Dexter axles are way under par for this trailer which weighs about 7000 empty.
In my opinion most RV manufacturers use inadequately rated suspension parts which includes axles and tires!!
2015 Ram 3500/DRW/Aisin/auto/Max tow/4.10s,Cummins, stock Laramie Limited--Silver
Tequila Sunrise 2012 Ultra Classic Limited
2018 Raptor 428SP
FW-2007 Coachmen 321T-Purchased new in 2007-Full Time Workamping
Jan. 2016-Have new wheels and tires put on 5th wheel.
Feb. 2016-Take FW to have safety inspection performed for registration renewal.
Late Feb 2016-Get Fiver ready for travel to new job in Florida.
Check tires, lugs, lights, etc., Fiver is ready to travel from Texas to Florida. Fiver is in RV Park so I left it hooked up to the power and water. Went to my S&B for few days to pick up DW to travel with me.
Travel day-hook up to TV. Check lights, tire pressure, etc. Off we go. 25 miles later the front street side wheel assembly comes off at 55 mph. Get stopped on highway shoulder. Walk back and recover wheel assembly. Look at hub- two sheared off studs. Limp to exit, find large open area to park. "Hey I can fix this, no problem."
Drive to small town- hit every autoparts place in 20 miles. Finally find enough of the correct size studs. BTW- found lugs nuts loose on Left rear wheel also. Curb side wheels are tight. No movement at all. Just like all four were six days before when checked.
Change studs, install hubs and wheels. Good to go right? Nope, less than 1 mile later I see in mirror wheel angle looks odd. Stop, check lugs, both left side wheels have loose lugs. Huh?
Tighten the **** out of them again-get 1/4 mile and see wobble. I limped to truck stop 5 miles away, stopping every 1/4 mile or less to tighten up. Problem is studs are starting to shear off.
Make it to truck stop. I have two studs left on front left wheel and four on rear left wheel. (Six Lug Hubs)
Call for road side assistance (AAA RV Plus)-No help at all.
Locate Mobile Mechanic-He was able to get to me 8 hrs later- he was out on call.
I had told him on phone that according to my build papers glued in the kitchen cabinet that the RV had "Dexter 5,200 lb axles"
Found out later that night while under the RV that I have Lippert axles. Read directly off the axle.
After all night at truck stop Mobile Mechanic has installed new hubs and bearings.
Off I go to Florida, checking my lug nuts every 25 miles for the first 100 and then at every single stop. All is good.
Fast forward to Nov 2016-Make RV road ready for trip back to Texas from FL. Trip home uneventful from the RV stand point.
While home I fix up a few things on the RV and install two new A/C units. All is good.
Jan 2017-Make ready for road trip to AZ. Do all of the checks, etc. Lugs are good. (BTW-from previous drama I am now fixated on lug nuts)
Off to AZ with DW traveling with me. Five miles from house I see smoke coming off left rear wheel. Whip into Pharmacy parking lot. Dragging brake shoe maybe?
Nope- I see at least one inch of brake pad showing between flange/shield and hub. OK, call Mobile Mech. Mech says I need new axle and it will take 3 weeks to get parts, 2K to tow to their facility, yada, yada, yada..
I pay mechanic for his call out. I jack up axle, remove tire and wheel w/o removing lug nuts. I see spindle/castle nut/three plate washers/inner bearing/grease seal. No outer bearing. Under discolored grease I find what is left of outer bearing. Just a small band of metal.
I locate parts, and for some reason decided to buy a small hub puller. Glad I did. I purchase three complete sets of hubs, bearings, seals, nuts, finger washers, etc.
Glad I did. Go to remove nut-dang it- the threads are partially stripped and the nut is only three threads from the start point. I now know why I have extra plate washers here and no finger washer.(Previous MM jury rigged it? Maybe?)
Cannot get nut to move with fingers. I am glad I keep a 3 ft long crescent on the truck. With lots of grease and care I back off the nut without further damaging threads.
Put new hub/bearings, etc on left side wheels/axles. Do a drive check for 50 miles stopping every 10 or so.
I make my trip to AZ.
I will not use those zerc fittings for greasing my bearings. I will hand pack as I did when I rebuilt it in that parking lot.
My world is ok now.
OK, with that said, no one has stated the obvious. Dexter and on their now non-intuitive website, has a bearing handbook. In that information is the recommendation that you pull the drum and inspect and lube the bearings every 12,000 miles or every 12 months, whichever comes first and that includes E-Z Lube bearings. Yes, it is conservative as far as the time frame but the mileage frame is what we 'old timers' used on our automobiles before the days of the front wheel drive cars with sealed capsule bearings. Unfortunately, RV manufacturers don't bother adding this info to their owner's package. Then there is the fact that no-name Chinese made bearings used by Dexter and other bearing users have a poor reputation for longevity as I too found when I pulled the bearings on our Montana after a year and about 5000 miles. Now, 15,000+ miles later, the replacement US made Timken bearings, using a Dexter grease recommendation, show no distress.
If you do continue to use the E-Z Lube system, each empty hub will take about 200 strokes of that grease gun lever along with the best part of a full tube of grease. You also need to lift and rotate each wheel to spread the grease as there is only a single hub entry hole for the grease. You also need to be aware that the seal is the weak point on the system and you can 'blow' by it if you over pressurize that hub by using anything but a hand operated grease gun.
I've posted this elsewhere, but that little hole is the only entry point to grease those bearings while the seal rides the land directly above it (and no, that rough spot is not a defect or failure):
![[image]](http://s70.photobucket.com/user/Irelandschild/media/Other%20stuff/RVspindlestub2.jpg.html)
wilber1 wrote:
Allways seemed like a huge waste of grease to me, filling a whole hub with grease to do a job that only requires a few onces. I'm still using the same tub of Penzoil 707L that I bought in 2002.
Could be you're right about a huge waste of grease, but I've got a triple axle, plenty of grease, but a only finite amount of time to waste on pulling 6 wheels and repacking same. So I pick wasting some of that grease, and save my time for other things. Allways seemed like a huge waste of grease to me, filling a whole hub with grease to do a job that only requires a few onces. I'm still using the same tub of Penzoil 707L that I bought in 2002.
Howard and Peggy
"Don't Panic"
2015 Ram 3500 Dually
Sundowner 2286GM Pro-Grade Toyhauler
I learn to hand packet bearing as a young kid working in service stations back when they had service! Early 60's! Never have had a bearing failure to date. Chris
* This post was edited 04/12/17 10:29pm by Me Again *
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/DVhMPEDl.jpg)
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/0i91XUll.jpg)
Wild Card wrote:
If you just pack the bearings and leave the large void in the hub greaseless, the grease in the bearing will get hot,melt and run to this void in the hub.
I call FUD.If you just pack the bearings and leave the large void in the hub greaseless, the grease in the bearing will get hot,melt and run to this void in the hub.
I just pulled mine at 10 years and maybe 35,000 miles... grease was still just fine on the cheepo bearings and all looked good.
time2roll wrote:
I just pulled mine at 10 years and maybe 35,000 miles... grease was still just fine on the cheepo bearings and all looked good.
Wild Card wrote:
If you just pack the bearings and leave the large void in the hub greaseless, the grease in the bearing will get hot,melt and run to this void in the hub.
I call FUD.If you just pack the bearings and leave the large void in the hub greaseless, the grease in the bearing will get hot,melt and run to this void in the hub.
I just pulled mine at 10 years and maybe 35,000 miles... grease was still just fine on the cheepo bearings and all looked good.
X2!
I have packed many a wheel bearing in my life, and never pulled one later to find the grease the "Melted" and ran to the center.
I have been packing bearings for over 50 years.
Where do you come up with this stuff, marketing is great these days.
Sure is funny that grease liquifies and drips from grease guns on an normal summer day.
And were not all talking to and about people who routinely maintain their hubs. Most who will read this could care less about their hubs and bearings.
* This post was edited 04/13/17 07:21am by an administrator/moderator *
2016 Montana 3100RL Legacy(LT's,Joy Rider 2's,disc brakes)
2014 Ram 3500 DRW Laramie Cummins/Aisin 14,000 GVWR
2014 Ford Expedition Limited, HD tow pkg
2016 Honda Civic EX-T
1999 Stingray 240LS
1994 Chevy 1500 5.7 PU
2018 John Deere 1025R
B&W RVK3600 Hitch
 (320x240) (320x240).gif)
Wild Card wrote:
If you just pack the bearings and leave the large void in the hub greaseless, the grease in the bearing will get hot,melt and run to this void in the hub.
If you just pack the bearings and leave the large void in the hub greaseless, the grease in the bearing will get hot,melt and run to this void in the hub.
I've never had that happen.
Wild Card wrote:
Possibly melt was a poor choice of wording. And not everyone goes out and buys xyz premium spaceshuttle lithium grease.
Sure is funny that grease liquifies and drips from grease guns on an normal summer day.
And were not all talking to and about people who routinely maintain their hubs. Most who will read this could care less about their hubs and bearings.
The oil that you see leaking out of an unused grease gun is oil that has separated, or come out of suspension, not melted. The turning bearing will actually keep that from happening since it keeps the oil in suspension by the rotation of the bearing. Just like oil and water, let it sit and the oil will rise, keep it agitated and it will disperse, somewhat, in the water.Possibly melt was a poor choice of wording. And not everyone goes out and buys xyz premium spaceshuttle lithium grease.
Sure is funny that grease liquifies and drips from grease guns on an normal summer day.
And were not all talking to and about people who routinely maintain their hubs. Most who will read this could care less about their hubs and bearings.
If you let the bearing sit long enough, some of the oil will indeed run to the lowest point. Another good reason to use your trailer rather than let it sit.
Wild Card wrote:
Possibly melt was a poor choice of wording. And not everyone goes out and buys xyz premium spaceshuttle lithium grease.
Sure is funny that grease liquifies and drips from grease guns on an normal summer day.
And were not all talking to and about people who routinely maintain their hubs. Most who will read this could care less about their hubs and bearings.
Possibly melt was a poor choice of wording. And not everyone goes out and buys xyz premium spaceshuttle lithium grease.
Sure is funny that grease liquifies and drips from grease guns on an normal summer day.
And were not all talking to and about people who routinely maintain their hubs. Most who will read this could care less about their hubs and bearings.
Well I for one don't buy cheap grease the cost difference for a tub is insignificant, not to buy the best at least the better grade.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/doh.gif "doh")
06Fargo wrote:
I use wheel bearing grease. Not sure if it is internet approved. It doesn't melt.
I use wheel bearing grease. Not sure if it is internet approved. It doesn't melt.
It will...give it time.
"Four hungry bearings and rings that won't seal. Oh, it's a fine time to leave me loose wheel."
But the bottom line is that in over forty plus years of doing all my own maintenance on vehicles and now of course trailers, if the trailer like mine now has EZ-lube I pump grease in till it comes out with the new stuff showing, BUT!
That does not mean you should not check bearings visually and you should be looking at the brakes over time, and for that I imagine all drum brakes require undoing the axle nut and taking drum off, so that is the time to also check bearings, but yes you can use the greasable ones, but every so often and especially before long trips do yourself a favour and check bearings and repack manually.
Can't hurt.