What do you all use for a jack to change tires? Bottle jack? Floor jack? Forget the jack and call the nearest truck tire guy?
Seems the sheer size and weight of this beast would make self -changing a risky adventure.
Buy a Roadside Assistance policy. The most popular are Good Sam and Coach-Net.
They will send someone to change the tire for you.
Also, check your RV insurance policy, maybe you are covered.
To answer your question a bottle jack would be easier/smaller to carry. But a floor jack would probably be easier to use. Your call.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
And, check the age of your tires. RV tires usually age out before they wear out. Most replace the tires at 6-9 years.
Monitor your tire pressure, that's important.
Don't hesitate to ask questions on the forum. Someone will have the answer.
Enjoy your travels.
I'd hope for professional help. Or somebody to help me. Finally, change it myself and I've done it before. I'd just hate to have a service truck roll up and find he'd lost the right socket, had too tall a jack, etc.
A whole Class C doesn't weigh near 12 tons. But, much less than a 12 jack is too hard to pump in the awkward location on the axle to change a rear tire.
![[image]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51qK98h0rfL._SX425_.jpg)
This guy. About $20 more than a single-acting 12-ton and very much worth it.
* This post was edited 04/03/17 10:16am by j-d *
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB
Good luck!
Bill
2004 Bigfoot 29G (Love the garage!)
2017 Northern-Lite 10'2" SE on F-350 (CC, Dually, 4WD, Boss)
With this year and chassis make certain you have and use wheel chocks before jacking up one of the back wheels. The parking brake is on the driveshaft, so when one end of the back axle is raised off the ground there is no braking action on any of the wheels from the parking brake. (The differential will allow the wheel on the ground to turn one direction and the wheel in the air the other direction.) Wheel chocks should, of course, be used whenever you jack up any vehicle, but are rather more urgently needed in this case.
In general, though, I'm not sure the weight makes it vastly more risky than changing the tire on a car. In either case, if it comes down on any part of your anatomy, you're going to have a very, very bad day.
Just make sure that you check whatever you get to make sure it works before you need it.
And in regard to those that are proponents of roadside assistance, I would be cautious. Great service if you are in town. But there are times when it takes forever for them to get to you. My sister had 3 tread separations last year (which can be a whole other subject). Twice she called roadside assistance, and had to wait over 3 hours each time. I am not sure why you would be willing to wait that long when changing a flat should be a 15 minute ordeal.
Even if you are not physically able to do it yourself, if you have the equipment, a good samaritan will possibly help you out if you have the equipment to change it.
2012 RAM 3500 Laramie Longhorn DRW CC 4x4 Max Tow, Cummins HO, 60 gallon RDS aux fuel tank, Reese 18k Elite hitch
2003 Dodge Ram 3500 QC SB 4x4 Cummins HO NV5600 with Smarty JR, Jacobs EB (sold)
2002 Gulf Stream Sea Hawk 29FRB with Honda EV6010
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C
My new MH does not have one coming with it and there is no provision for mounting it under chassis. We don't like how the bumper mount would look, so we aren't going that route.
I can jack it up, but without a spare, why bother?
pastorbillv wrote:
If it's the outer tire on the rear, I use my leveling blocks under the inner tire.
If it's the outer tire on the rear, I use my leveling blocks under the inner tire.
Very leery of doing this. Larger vehicles have a Stud with a Lug over it that tightens onto the INNER wheel. It's usually tightened with a Square Socket. Then the Outer wheel goes over that Lug then a large Nut secures the outer.
On the Ford Class C's, and I believe most other light trucks, both wheels slip over the studs then a Nut secures both wheels at once. Leaving the truck standing on one wheel, no nuts holding it, risky.
Probably won't come down, at least on level ground, but if it does, it's very likely to damage the studs and maybe the hub and wheel. I wouldn't do it.
We've carried that very one in our Class C for years. The "12 ton" spec is not the important part of it ... it's the minimum and maximum heights that it's ram extends that is important.
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C
Jim
2005 Coachman Sportscoach Elite 402 40'
350hp Cat C-7 w/MP-8
7500w Onan quiet diesel generator
6-Kyocera 130w solar panels SB3024i MPPT controller
Pressure Pro TPMS
1987 Suzuki Samurai tintop Toad w/VW 1.6 turbo diesel power
Dusty
j-d wrote:
Very leery of doing this. Larger vehicles have a Stud with a Lug over it that tightens onto the INNER wheel. It's usually tightened with a Square Socket. Then the Outer wheel goes over that Lug then a large Nut secures the outer.
On the Ford Class C's, and I believe most other light trucks, both wheels slip over the studs then a Nut secures both wheels at once. Leaving the truck standing on one wheel, no nuts holding it, risky.
Probably won't come down, at least on level ground, but if it does, it's very likely to damage the studs and maybe the hub and wheel. I wouldn't do it.
pastorbillv wrote:
If it's the outer tire on the rear, I use my leveling blocks under the inner tire.
If it's the outer tire on the rear, I use my leveling blocks under the inner tire.
Very leery of doing this. Larger vehicles have a Stud with a Lug over it that tightens onto the INNER wheel. It's usually tightened with a Square Socket. Then the Outer wheel goes over that Lug then a large Nut secures the outer.
On the Ford Class C's, and I believe most other light trucks, both wheels slip over the studs then a Nut secures both wheels at once. Leaving the truck standing on one wheel, no nuts holding it, risky.
Probably won't come down, at least on level ground, but if it does, it's very likely to damage the studs and maybe the hub and wheel. I wouldn't do it.
When I first saw the post, I was going to reply. Same as you, both wheels are sandwiched together on the same studs, with the same lugnuts. Take the lugnuts off, and BOTH wheels are now loose on the studs. The way my Sprinter axle is set up the hub centric wheels have just enough hub to seat on and not an extra bit. Would be an extremely dangerous thing to do what Pastorbill is suggesting.
Charles
'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO six speed, PacBrake Exh Brake, std cab, long bed, Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. previously (both gone) 2008 Thor/Dutchman Freedom Spirit 180 & 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome.
j-d wrote:
pastorbillv wrote:
If it's the outer tire on the rear, I use my leveling blocks under the inner tire.
Very leery of doing this. Larger vehicles have a Stud with a Lug over it that tightens onto the INNER wheel. It's usually tightened with a Square Socket. Then the Outer wheel goes over that Lug then a large Nut secures the outer.
On the Ford Class C's, and I believe most other light trucks, both wheels slip over the studs then a Nut secures both wheels at once. Leaving the truck standing on one wheel, no nuts holding it, risky.
Probably won't come down, at least on level ground, but if it does, it's very likely to damage the studs and maybe the hub and wheel. I wouldn't do it.
pastorbillv wrote:
If it's the outer tire on the rear, I use my leveling blocks under the inner tire.
Very leery of doing this. Larger vehicles have a Stud with a Lug over it that tightens onto the INNER wheel. It's usually tightened with a Square Socket. Then the Outer wheel goes over that Lug then a large Nut secures the outer.
On the Ford Class C's, and I believe most other light trucks, both wheels slip over the studs then a Nut secures both wheels at once. Leaving the truck standing on one wheel, no nuts holding it, risky.
Probably won't come down, at least on level ground, but if it does, it's very likely to damage the studs and maybe the hub and wheel. I wouldn't do it.
I notice from reading pastorbilv's profile that he may to be towing an RV with an F350 dually pickup.
Jacking up the rear of a dually pickup tow vehicle to fix either an inner or outer tire in one of it's dual sets is a whole different, and easier, and less dangerous proposition (even if you leave the TT or 5'er hitched up) than trying the same on a rear corner of a Class C (or Class A) motorhome . There's way less weight on the duallies of a towing pickup than there is on the duallies of a motorhome.
Remember to chock tires across and also diagonally from jacked tire for safety.
Marvin
2010 Coachman Freelander 22TB on a
2008 Sprinter/Freightliner chassis
1995 Geo Tracker (Toad)
Some where on the net I learned how/where to drill and tap a jack to add a hi-pressure gauge. You can hook a hose in place of the gauge.
Dusty
Steve
Good Sam's Roadside Assistance and this jack
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/B071q1gl.jpg)
Tyrone & Gladys
27' 1986 Coachmen
