Has anyone here converted to lithium batteries?
Ham radio 73's from Gale N8GS
2009 GMC 2500HD Ext cab, LB 4x4 Duramax
2015 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS Pin wt.2900#
B&W companion
2 Honda EU2000i
400 Ah LiFePO4 batteries + 470W of solar w/ Outback FM-60 CC
Samlex 2000w PSW inverter
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton
And the whole thing/process was a top to bottom redesign and replace
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !
....
Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s
N8GS wrote:
I am considering upgrading to lithium batteries has anyone here don that. I am looking at installing 3 100Ah batteries in parallel and using a PD 9160 converter to recharge them when my Outback solar charger can't be used.
Has anyone here converted to lithium batteries?
I am considering upgrading to lithium batteries has anyone here don that. I am looking at installing 3 100Ah batteries in parallel and using a PD 9160 converter to recharge them when my Outback solar charger can't be used.
Has anyone here converted to lithium batteries?
Please don't take this wrong but the fact that you want to use 3 100 AH batteries shows that you have not done your homework. There is a lot of misinformation out there on this subject. I suggest you be careful of your choices. Do these batteries have some type of BMS?
Good luck!
2019 Ford F150 EcoBoost SuperCrew
2016 Rockwood Mini Lite 2504S. TM2030 SC2030
640 Watts Solar. Costco CG2 208 AH and Lifepo4 3P4S 150 AH Hybrid. ElectroDacus. Renolagy DC to DC charger. 2000 Watt Inverter.
Boondocking is my Deal
westend wrote:
I haven't any interest in doing so because of price. One thing I do know is that you will need a different charging system that conventional RV converter. In fact, PD makes one that is compatible with Li batteries. You'll also need to have the solar charging integrate somehow with the Li battery charging management system. This is not an "install new lithium batteries and charge" situation.
I haven't any interest in doing so because of price. One thing I do know is that you will need a different charging system that conventional RV converter. In fact, PD makes one that is compatible with Li batteries. You'll also need to have the solar charging integrate somehow with the Li battery charging management system. This is not an "install new lithium batteries and charge" situation.
Both Battle Born (100Ah) and StarkPower (125Ah) Li-Ion claim they are drop in replacements for standard flooded batteries, although they do say if you can change the charge profile in your setup you should. Yes they are pricey, especially the StarkPower ones, but when you look at the amount of additional available power, faster recharge time, lower weight and longer lifespan it can all balance out in the end. Just depends on your camping style and your own life cycle cost analysis. Seems to me if your camping style leans towards dry camping then a Li-Ion upgrade is something to seriously consider.
Axis 24.1 class A 500watts solar TS-45CC Trimetric
Very noisy generator ">
2016 Wrangler JK dinghy
“They who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.” Benjamin Franklin
They have been wonderful to say the very least
Contrary to popular belief they are not difficult to charge properly
Suggest you look at the Prismatic cells as compared to the "Drop In Replacements" which are made of dozens of smaller cells in a series / parallel configuration
Check out the Boating forums lots of good hands on info available
grizzzman wrote:
the fact that you want to use 3 100 AH batteries shows that you have not done your homework.
Please explain.
the fact that you want to use 3 100 AH batteries shows that you have not done your homework.
I would go for 400 amp-hour cells. There seem to be battery management issues (charging) when putting LI in parallel or series configurations.
If I did not have cold weather issues, I'd be a lot more interested in LI technologies.
This gentleman has installed LI
http://www.jenericramblings.com/2017/01/17/rv-upgrades-switching-to-lithium/
* This post was edited 04/02/17 09:03am by pianotuna *
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
To answer some of the questions and comments.
I like to dry camp, just got back from Quartzsite, AZ. We spent 8 weeks dry camping at Q.
I currently have 600 Ah on board. thats 4 Trojan T1275 batteries.
I can easily reconfigure my Outback charge controller for use with LiFePO4.
The batteries I am looking at do have BMS. I am thinking of using the StarkPower batteries but there are other options. Stark is running a special on the 100 Ah units at $899 each.
I have looked at the PD charger/converter and it is also the recommended by StarkPower.
As some of you know I do a lot of research before committing to a final solution.
Pin weight reduction on my FW is also an issue that I am addressing.
KJINTF wrote:
Going on two years now added four 200amp/hr LiFeMnPO4 Prismatic cells
They have been wonderful to say the very least
Contrary to popular belief they are not difficult to charge properly
Suggest you look at the Prismatic cells as compared to the "Drop In Replacements" which are made of dozens of smaller cells in a series / parallel configuration
Check out the Boating forums lots of good hands on info available
Going on two years now added four 200amp/hr LiFeMnPO4 Prismatic cells
They have been wonderful to say the very least
Contrary to popular belief they are not difficult to charge properly
Suggest you look at the Prismatic cells as compared to the "Drop In Replacements" which are made of dozens of smaller cells in a series / parallel configuration
Check out the Boating forums lots of good hands on info available
Wasn't that you, that had a complete new install designed by your son the solar power design engineer ?
Or was that somebody else ?
Lithium sales people have been touting drop in REPLACEMENT for over 5 years
But does not seem to be a reality, in anything more than a one off REPLACEMENT..
When you get into Banks of batteries, it is harder to use single drop ins and have them work together with out problems appearing
It seems like the Li battery's built-in charge management circuirty should not care about, or know about, other batteries around it if they are all seeing identical external loads, as they do if hooked up in a balanced way. "Hooking up in a balanced way" is merely a matter of maintaining - among all the batteries - equal current path resistance (i.e. equal cable lengths) to the loads whenever multiple batteries of the same voltage are interconnected in a parallel configuration. This assumes that all of the drop-in type Li batteries in a multiple battery bank are the same age of the same model from the same manufacturer.
* This post was edited 04/02/17 01:46pm by pnichols *
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C
KJINTF wrote:
Going on two years now added four 200amp/hr LiFeMnPO4 Prismatic cells
They have been wonderful to say the very least
Contrary to popular belief they are not difficult to charge properly
Suggest you look at the Prismatic cells as compared to the "Drop In Replacements" which are made of dozens of smaller cells in a series / parallel configuration
Check out the Boating forums lots of good hands on info available
Going on two years now added four 200amp/hr LiFeMnPO4 Prismatic cells
They have been wonderful to say the very least
Contrary to popular belief they are not difficult to charge properly
Suggest you look at the Prismatic cells as compared to the "Drop In Replacements" which are made of dozens of smaller cells in a series / parallel configuration
Check out the Boating forums lots of good hands on info available
Tell us more about your prismatic cells. I believe my VW e-Golf has the exact same battery chemistry as what you are mentioning, with prismatic cells. 24.2 kwh of capacity, about 22kwh usable.
* This post was edited 04/02/17 01:54pm by NinerBikes *
N8GS wrote:
I am thinking of using the StarkPower batteries but there are other options. Stark is running a special on the 100 Ah units at $899 each.
Ok, I see those are the cheapest out there. Be careful, when spending this kind of bucks I wouldn't be going for the cheapest I could find.
I am thinking of using the StarkPower batteries but there are other options. Stark is running a special on the 100 Ah units at $899 each.
i would like to agree with you, it seems it should be that way
but as 2oldman can attest in doing his research, that is not what he was told
it seems it is not just a matter of recharge
but also a matter of controlling output in a balanced manner
the BMS in hybrid/electric vehicles or a power wall is complicated afair
it would be interesting IF "KJINTF" came back and post a few pictures of his batteries and the BMS involved
* This post was edited 04/02/17 02:54pm by MrWizard *
MrWizard wrote:
but as 2oldman can attest in doing his research, that is not what he was told
In going to 48v I was advised it's best to have a single battery pack. With a 12v system a series or parallel arrangement is "not a problem."
but as 2oldman can attest in doing his research, that is not what he was told
Don-thanks for the link it fits well with my line of thinking which provides a level of comfort.
While I was in Quartzsite I stopped in to a couple of solar installers to discuss lithium batteries. One shop has no plans to handle them till the price drops a lot. The other shop carries Relion batteries. While I was talking to them 2 customers came in and bought Li. They were selling the 100 Ah for $1250 and the 300 Ah for $3100. The big one is in a 8D case.
KJINTF has a single 12 volt 200 amp-hour battery, so there are not the internal balancing problems of multiple jars.
he said he has (4)* 200
Quote:
KJINTF wrote:
Going on two years now added four 200amp/hr LiFeMnPO4 Prismatic cells
They have been wonderful to say the very least
KJINTF wrote:
Going on two years now added four 200amp/hr LiFeMnPO4 Prismatic cells
They have been wonderful to say the very least
800 ampHrs total if at 12v, might be another voltage configuration
He has 4 prismatic cells in series. 200 amp-hours @ 12 volts (nominal). At least that is the way I read his post.
You're correct
4 each 200amp Prismatic cells at 3.2Vdc each = Nominal Voltage of 12.8Vdc
See how confusing this gets
He said four 200 ampHrs CELLS, but did Not say 3.2v in the post I quoted
and I took it as FOUR 200 ampHrs Batteries
My mistake
And yes, I think this is the better way of doing lithium battery bank
His (4) cells makes one Battery of 200 amps of 12.8v
Same principle as (6) 2v load acid cells
Instead of multiple series_parallel cells in (1) 100 ampHr battery and using (2) or more of those in parallel
* This post was edited 04/03/17 09:58am by MrWizard *
It is hard to beat the used telecom jars, if one has weight capacity to use them.
My "ultimate" LI bank would be 200 amp-hours @ 48 volts allowing for about 7500 watt-hours usable. I'd finish out the system with 2000 watts of solar panels. *grin*
So 4 200 Ah cells in series. What is he using for a BMS to ensure that each cell is charged and none are overcharged. How expensive are these cells and how much does the BMS cost.
It seems that one of the advantages of the drop in replacements is that the BMS is built into the case and recharging just requires that you put 14.6 volts on the buss. The BMS then takes care of balancing the charging.
Gale
200 @ 12 volts would not be enough for me. Consider going to 200 amp-hours @ 24 volts (or 48).
After all, I have 278 amp-hours usable from the telecom jars which were $524.00 (556 total amp-hours)
My typical day this winter was 112 Ah. That gives me 2 1/2 days of "zero" sun. If needed I can cut back to about 60 Ah per day to get through a big storm.
All this means that I could bet by with 90# of battery instead of the 335# that I am currently carrying. My trucks rear tires are within 200# of their max load rating.
Clearly different strokes for different folks. I run my laptop far too much, and now that I have unlimited data I use it even more.
My drivers rear duals were over the tire rating but not over the frame rating so I moved to taller higher capacity rims/tires.
I'm also getting a rack for the front of my class C for the generator--to remove weight from the rear--and also to have a secure clam shell to prevent theft (yes, my generator did walk away).
Any way to move the battery bank off the tongue?
Suggest the OP research the boating forums and EV forums. Those folks have several years of first hand knowledge. Yes EV vehicles are a different application however the typical sailing boat application is similar to the RV House battery. Both of the above have extensive documented information and hands on experience.
For me the "store" bought BMS is not worth a nickle. Check out the many EV / Boating forms. Several documented fires have been created by this wonderful device that is sold to protect even a fool from any possible harm.
I designed and created my own home brew BMS with a integrated charging system for less than $50.00. It includes proactive Audio/Visual warnings & alarms and is completely integrated into my RV electrical system. Yes if need be it will automatically drive a 400amp contactor.
Everyone has their own requirements and skills.
I say once again you should stay away from the "drop in replacement" marketing hype
KJINTF wrote:
I have no desire to create a firestorm of additional questions.
Suggest the OP research the boating forums and EV forums. Those folks have several years of first hand knowledge. Yes EV vehicles are a different application however the typical sailing boat application is similar to the RV House battery. Both of the above have extensive documented information and hands on experience.
For me the "store" bought BMS is not worth a nickle. Check out the many EV / Boating forms. Several documented fires have been created by this wonderful device that is sold to protect even a fool from any possible harm.
I designed and created my own home brew BMS with a integrated charging system for less than $50.00. It includes proactive Audio/Visual warnings & alarms and is completely integrated into my RV electrical system. Yes if need be it will automatically drive a 400amp contactor.
Everyone has their own requirements and skills.
I say once again you should stay away from the "drop in replacement" marketing hype
I have no desire to create a firestorm of additional questions.
Suggest the OP research the boating forums and EV forums. Those folks have several years of first hand knowledge. Yes EV vehicles are a different application however the typical sailing boat application is similar to the RV House battery. Both of the above have extensive documented information and hands on experience.
For me the "store" bought BMS is not worth a nickle. Check out the many EV / Boating forms. Several documented fires have been created by this wonderful device that is sold to protect even a fool from any possible harm.
I designed and created my own home brew BMS with a integrated charging system for less than $50.00. It includes proactive Audio/Visual warnings & alarms and is completely integrated into my RV electrical system. Yes if need be it will automatically drive a 400amp contactor.
Everyone has their own requirements and skills.
I say once again you should stay away from the "drop in replacement" marketing hype
Good on you.
Drop in systems IMO are probably going to be a black mark on adoption of LiFePO4 batteries for the mainstream.
A good informational link on LiFePO4 systems in the marine environment is here:
Lifepo4 on boats
FREE
LUNCHES
I've a pack of (6) LiPo4 batteries with taps between batteries. When charging NONE of the 4 taps shows equal voltage. This is an area in which novice do-it-yourselfer's are in over their head.
The battery pack is perfect for checking 10 watt 10 volt LED chips. But when I recharge the battery pack it is in increments. Four stages, beginning with 10.2 volts. The process takes many hours to do SAFELY.
Another marine install to peruse;
Look for this link 'DIY Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries8"
The use of these battery systems in an RV is quite different than their usage in the Electric Vehicle market. The closest similar usage of these battery systems is in the marine market -sailboats and cruisers.
Not sure what equal voltages are?
How about some numbers ????
What chemistry are your cells?
For me my system charging at 75amps and discharging at as high as 150+ amps stays within 10mv from highest to lowest cell as in 0.010Volts
For me that is completely acceptable
What are you Voltages?
* This post was edited 04/04/17 04:16pm by KJINTF *
Jerry & Jeanne
1996 Safari Sahara 3530 - 'White Tiger'
CAT 3126/Allison 6 speed/Magnum Chassis
2014 Equinox AWD / Blue Ox
They went from the bus to a new RV, to now in a Sail boat
Iirc
Sponsors paid for everything
RV, batteries, solar,etc..
The taps are chopped wires. Could they have connected to a management system?
Not that fancy--they have a Victron hybrid. Magnum and Xantrex both make them.
I chose the Magnum 3012. I will be adding a Microair easy start kit.
jplante4 wrote:
They have some fancy inverter that takes the surge from the A/C start so they can run a single A/C on a 2500 watt genny.
They have some fancy inverter that takes the surge from the A/C start so they can run a single A/C on a 2500 watt genny.
MrWizard wrote:
Everything from them needs to be taken with copious amounts of salt
They went from the bus to a new RV, to now in a Sail boat
Iirc
Sponsors paid for everything
RV, batteries, solar,etc..
Everything from them needs to be taken with copious amounts of salt
They went from the bus to a new RV, to now in a Sail boat
Iirc
Sponsors paid for everything
RV, batteries, solar,etc..
They put a 500 Ah lifepo4 bank in their bus. Is it any less a valid solution if someone paid for it? The whole bank was the weight of one of my GC2s. Is that because it was free? Lotta hate out there for these people.
They went from a bus conversion to a power boat. You're thinking of the Wynns.
But everything from them was 'Rose' colored
I don't remember any "this didn't work"
"This is not holding up", "don't get this"
Everything was tested under optimal conditions, the caveats seemed not to get mentioned
After a couple reads and a couple of videos, I decided I had better things to entertaine me
MrWizard, they do say their LI bank has suffered from heat and has lost iirc about 20 percent of the original capacity.
MrWizard wrote:
Everything from them needs to be taken with copious amounts of salt
They went from the bus to a new RV, to now in a Sail boat
Iirc
Sponsors paid for everything
RV, batteries, solar,etc..
Everything from them needs to be taken with copious amounts of salt
They went from the bus to a new RV, to now in a Sail boat
Iirc
Sponsors paid for everything
RV, batteries, solar,etc..
Any links on their new motor home, and then their boat?
NinerBikes wrote:
Any links on their new motor home, and then their boat?
MrWizard wrote:
Everything from them needs to be taken with copious amounts of salt
They went from the bus to a new RV, to now in a Sail boat
Iirc
Sponsors paid for everything
RV, batteries, solar,etc..
Everything from them needs to be taken with copious amounts of salt
They went from the bus to a new RV, to now in a Sail boat
Iirc
Sponsors paid for everything
RV, batteries, solar,etc..
Any links on their new motor home, and then their boat?
I don't see anything on their feed about a new motor home. They state that they're keeping the bus.
As I said, Gone With The Wynns went from a new motor home that I think they were "testing" to a new sail boat. I don't know the whole story. As Mr Wizard did with Technomadia, I did with the Wynns.
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
This is a batteries working perfect, blue screen of death laptop series LiPo bundle rescue and I am getting up to .22 volts differential between cells at a 2.2 ampere recharge rate. The stupid bundle has superb capacity characteristics and extraordinarily minuscule self-discharge values. Are LiPo's THAT sensitive?
The taps are chopped wires. Could they have connected to a management system?
- YesThis is a batteries working perfect, blue screen of death laptop series LiPo bundle rescue and I am getting up to .22 volts differential between cells at a 2.2 ampere recharge rate. The stupid bundle has superb capacity characteristics and extraordinarily minuscule self-discharge values. Are LiPo's THAT sensitive?
The taps are chopped wires. Could they have connected to a management system?
Have you "Balanced" the pack - I have a few LiPo packs sized 6 to 12amp/hr ratings all have less than 10mV difference between highest and lowest cells
Comparing apples and oranges here
LiPo cells - 3.7V / cell, can go boom if not taken care of - suggest you bottom and or top balance the cells with something similar to this nice little device
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ND7J38C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That link is for a iMAX B6 charger - I have one and really like what it does for my many small LiPo packs and individual cells
Life - aka LiFePO4 - Cells are 3.2Vdc and - FAR less prone to going boom when treated improperly
LiFeMnPO4 - cells are 3.2Vdc and are very similar in characteristics to the Life cells - with only a slight variance in charging specifics
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
But using the pack in conjunction with a 347 nm UV 800 ma LED chip for portable night-time scorpion hunting has me intrigued.
But using the pack in conjunction with a 347 nm UV 800 ma LED chip for portable night-time scorpion hunting has me intrigued.
Huuuuuhhh?? LED's for scorpion hunting??
This is what worked best for night-time worm gathering and night-time spear fishing when I was a kid ... should still work best for scorpions
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
:http://www.coleman.com/1-mantle-kerosene-lantern-rounded-globe/3000001138.html
Dave W. AKA "Toyman"
KE5GOH - On 146.52
RV's ? What RV's ???
Apache Pop-up
Classic GMC Motorhome
07 Leisure Travel Sprinter
Do Boats Count ?
SCORPIONS UV LIGHT.
Power supply 32 vdc flood-lit almost acre. The buggers glow like green Christmas tree bulbs. Easy to decontaminate house and patio. With pincers put them in a jar. At dawn enter the henhouse pen and extract them one-at-a-time. The hens and roosters fight over them. Avian caviar? Scorpions are stupid. They try crawling on ceilings and fall onto beds, keyboards, the head. But they hide during the day. The 50 watt chip picks them up 100' distance. Against the girls armed with foot long tongs and a reward they don't stand a chance.
gmctoyman wrote:
Ordered 4 Battle Born today. Can't beat dealing with those folks !
Ordered 4 Battle Born today. Can't beat dealing with those folks !
I was looking at those batteries but this group got me into researching the prismatic cells. Looks like I can put together a complete 400 Ah system for about $2600 + shipping including the BMS and relays, but those are preliminary numbers. I still have a bunch of research to do.
I will be interested in how well your Battle Born batteries perform.
Gale
It is the Wynns that got the sail boat
Not Techomadia
It is they I meant when I misspoke about technomadia
Could you provide some guidance as to where I might find a suitable disconnect relay for the output of my battery bank. My calcs say that I will have a max load of 195 amps.
Look for contactors instead of relays.
https://www.platt.com/search.aspx?q=200+amp+3+phase+contactor
but you could use a DC circut breaker unless it has to be automatic
NOT sure why you want to disconnect the batteries for any reason besides service or storage
don't need to disconnect converter or inverter from batteries except for those reasons, that is best done manually, less chance for slip ups
going from inverter to generator or shore power, does not require disconnecting batteries
batteries should stay connected to system at all times except service, if you use solar you want it available and charging even IF you are not there same for shore power
a transfer switch between inverter and shore cord
or just but an RV plug connected to inverter and plug in shore cord
what you want to isolate via breakers or sub panel are the outlets MW etc.. from items like water heater and converter, 120v for fridge, but you can put the fridge on LP only manually, and not worry about it
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Hence in my original post my protocol for an exaggerated drawn-out recharging event. You can bet I was thermal scanning all six accumulators during the process. The 11.2 volt pack was perfect for checking 800ma LED chips prior to assembly. Now I have (another) lab power supply so I do not need the pack as much. But using the pack in conjunction with a 347 nm UV 800 ma LED chip for portable night-time scorpion hunting has me intrigued. The price of the chip howver is daunting. 9.5 watt 347 nm chips are pricey.
Hence in my original post my protocol for an exaggerated drawn-out recharging event. You can bet I was thermal scanning all six accumulators during the process. The 11.2 volt pack was perfect for checking 800ma LED chips prior to assembly. Now I have (another) lab power supply so I do not need the pack as much. But using the pack in conjunction with a 347 nm UV 800 ma LED chip for portable night-time scorpion hunting has me intrigued. The price of the chip howver is daunting. 9.5 watt 347 nm chips are pricey.
365nm scorpion flashlight
Posted By: N8GS on 04/07/17 08:20pm wrote:
Posted By: N8GS on 04/07/17 08:20pm
KJINFT
Could you provide some guidance as to where I might find a suitable disconnect relay for the output of my battery bank. My calcs say that I will have a max load of 195 amps.
Posted By: N8GS on 04/07/17 08:20pm
KJINFT
Could you provide some guidance as to where I might find a suitable disconnect relay for the output of my battery bank. My calcs say that I will have a max load of 195 amps.
Try these folks
I use the "Bear" Continuous duty 400amp - Only complaint is that the coil current is rather high
http://www.trombetta.com/products/products-contactors
Some good reading material
https://marinehowto.com/lifepo4-batteries-on-boats/
* This post was edited 04/08/17 06:56am by KJINTF *
Nordkyn Design webpage
For contactor's - might look at Tyco EV200 series units. Lower parasitic draw and a sealed design.
* This post was edited 04/08/17 08:57am by mapguy *
To enlighten those with questions. I need to be able to disconnect the battery bank from its load in the event that the batteries are depleted. That is to say I need a low voltage cutoff device for a lithium battery bank.
I will check out the links listed.
thanks
Gale
Does this mean you are going to "roll your own" battery management system?
Why not use a latching solenoid to eliminate the coil draw?
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Bob
Good question!
I had the Contactor in my parts bin while I looked at a $75.00 latching relay on the web. My Cheap self came through, why not use the one I have and live with the 1 amp coil draw after all it's only active when the inverter is powered up drawing 100 plus amps
That "saved" $75 quickly went away when I purchased a couple of factory scan tools GM Tech 2 and a Chrysler WiTech w/micro pod II
Otherwise YES the latching relays that offer a high enough continuous current rating are the way to go - they can even can be remote controlled - and as you state ZERO coil current draw after the switch
pianotuna wrote:
Gale,
Does this mean you are going to "roll your own" battery management system?
Gale,
Does this mean you are going to "roll your own" battery management system?
It appears that I am leaning in that direction.
As to the contactors/relays, Tyco has one that fits my need it is rated at 260 amps continuous.
If this project gets out of hand I will probably go with the Battle Born or Stark Power batteries that have a built in BMS.
What I am currently looking is 8 CALB 180 Ah cells in a 2p4s arrangement.
Still studying BMS units.
The BMS needs to be able to disconnect or turn off the charger/converter and may need to also shut down the solar charge controller if I can't make the CC do it on its own.
The big latching relay is for low voltage cutoff.
Still tweaking the design for awhile so I am still open to constructive suggestions.
Gale
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
I spent $28 to get an interactive miniature computer energy management meter that has a pair of terminals capable on controlling the coil to 1000 ma of a relay. Choose high or low voltage disconnect. Reasonably accurate to .005 + or - Thing makes a Samsung S8 menu look like a Dick & Jane primer.
I spent $28 to get an interactive miniature computer energy management meter that has a pair of terminals capable on controlling the coil to 1000 ma of a relay. Choose high or low voltage disconnect. Reasonably accurate to .005 + or - Thing makes a Samsung S8 menu look like a Dick & Jane primer.
don't tease - how about a link?
MrWizard wrote:
I want to apologize for my bad memory
It is the Wynns that got the sail boat
Not Techomadia
It is they I meant when I misspoke about technomadia
I want to apologize for my bad memory
It is the Wynns that got the sail boat
Not Techomadia
It is they I meant when I misspoke about technomadia
Yeah, I couldn't deal with them either. Just too cutesy.
N8GS wrote:
I am considering upgrading to lithium batteries has anyone here don that. I am looking at installing 3 100Ah batteries in parallel and using a PD 9160 converter to recharge them when my Outback solar charger can't be used.
Has anyone here converted to lithium batteries?
I am considering upgrading to lithium batteries has anyone here don that. I am looking at installing 3 100Ah batteries in parallel and using a PD 9160 converter to recharge them when my Outback solar charger can't be used.
Has anyone here converted to lithium batteries?
Here's a link to a guy that has been using Li in an RV successfully for 5 years.
www.technomadia.com/lithium
2010 Eagle Super Lite 315RLDS
2018 GMC Sierra 3500HD 6.6L Duramax
2010 Nights 45
2011 Nights 70
2012 Nights 144
2013 Nights 46
2014 Nights 49
2015 Nights 57
2016 Nights 73
2017 Nights 40
2018 Nights 56
2019 Nights 76
2020 Nights 68
.jpg)
When looking at LiFePO4 I ran across this diagram on a marine forum for an outrageous boat system using CleanPowerAuto's HousePower and MiniBMS battery management systems.
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/S0Q45Qk.jpg)
It has two solar, an alternator and an AC chargers. And about 6 contactors. It was entertaining to sort through how it worked.
If it weren't for the freezing temperature issues, would prolly still be toying with the idea of LiFePO4. But now am more interested in dreaming about a future set of Firefly Carbon Foam batteries ...
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
But, sadly, all I see in my future are FLA GC2s.
2014 ORV Timber Ridge 240RKS,8500#,1250# tongue,44K miles
690W Rooftop + 340W Portable Solar,4 GC2s,215Ah@24V
2016 Ram 2500 4x4 RgCab CTD,2507# payload,10.8 mpgUS tow
Just like you I'm interested in the Firefly Carbon Foam batteries. Has anyone seen reviews of them from end users?
https://www.emarineinc.com/Firefly-Oasis........h2rk7sFnsfcwhLm3tYoKDTupaltzwaAjpF8P8HAQ
The only issue is weight with the Firefly. All the other problems disappear.
* This post was edited 04/09/17 08:42am by pianotuna *
brulaz wrote:
Speaking about contactors ...
When looking at LiFePO4 I ran across this diagram on a marine forum for an outrageous boat system using CleanPowerAuto's HousePower and MiniBMS battery management systems.
It has two solar, an alternator and an AC chargers. And about 6 contactors. It was entertaining to sort through how it worked.
If it weren't for the freezing temperature issues, would prolly still be toying with the idea of LiFePO4. But now am more interested in dreaming about a future set of Firefly Carbon Foam batteries ...
But, sadly, all I see in my future are FLA GC2s.
Speaking about contactors ...
When looking at LiFePO4 I ran across this diagram on a marine forum for an outrageous boat system using CleanPowerAuto's HousePower and MiniBMS battery management systems.
It has two solar, an alternator and an AC chargers. And about 6 contactors. It was entertaining to sort through how it worked.
If it weren't for the freezing temperature issues, would prolly still be toying with the idea of LiFePO4. But now am more interested in dreaming about a future set of Firefly Carbon Foam batteries ...
But, sadly, all I see in my future are FLA GC2s.
Thanks for posting the diagram. Please note that the CleanPowerAuto battery management products are no longer available to purchase.
Any chance you can provide a link to the diagram source?
brulaz wrote:
But, sadly, all I see in my future are FLA GC2s.
But, sadly, all I see in my future are FLA GC2s.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/frown.gif "frown")
mapguy wrote:
...
Thanks for posting the diagram. Please note that the CleanPowerAuto battery management products are no longer available to purchase.
Any chance you can provide a link to the diagram source?
...
Thanks for posting the diagram. Please note that the CleanPowerAuto battery management products are no longer available to purchase.
Any chance you can provide a link to the diagram source?
That's a shame. Their stuff was affordable and apparently worked well in the marine environment.
Pretty sure that diagram was in one of the long discussions in the cruisersforum, perhaps this one:
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/........ose-using-them-as-house-banks-65069.html
Here's another source of info from a marine prespective:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/lifepo4_on_boats
Good Luck!
pianotuna wrote:
brulaz,
Just like you I'm interested in the Firefly Carbon Foam batteries. Has anyone seen reviews of them from end users?
https://www.emarineinc.com/Firefly-Oasis........h2rk7sFnsfcwhLm3tYoKDTupaltzwaAjpF8P8HAQ
The only issue is weight with the Firefly. All the other problems disappear.
brulaz,
Just like you I'm interested in the Firefly Carbon Foam batteries. Has anyone seen reviews of them from end users?
https://www.emarineinc.com/Firefly-Oasis........h2rk7sFnsfcwhLm3tYoKDTupaltzwaAjpF8P8HAQ
The only issue is weight with the Firefly. All the other problems disappear.
Here's a marine review:
http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/ca........n-foam-batteries-1-year-later-26233.html
And Bruce Schwab deals with and evaluates carbon foam and LiPO4 here:
https://www.bruceschwab.com/advanced-energy-storage-systems/
I see he's also selling a "OPE-Li3 ND-DC" battery management system for LiPO4.
None of this stuff is cheap. These people are driving boats worth hundreds of thousands of $$$, so be forewarned.
RISK BENEFIT RATIO
Pass the Grey Poupon is beyond my means. Monitoring and managing each individual cell is an eyebrow raiser. The cold weather chilly-willies and overdischarge destruction not only tips the scale - it tips over the table.
Owner evaluation may well be the same as the NO BAD DAYS tee shirt philosophy. But I'm old fashioned. If I wanted venison I would not reach for a bow & arrow.
Age. I guess...
You'll want to make sure your BMS takes care of shutting things down during discharge when any single cell drops too low, build in protections to prevent charging when too cold, or too hot, and I personally wouldn't take the battery into the top 10 percent of it's capacity either keeping it between 90 percent and 20 percent. If possible it would be good to have a method for dumping the charge down to about 40 percent if it's going to be sitting idle for more than a couple days, especially in hot weather.
Finally, keep in mind that personal observation compared to measured data can be significantly different with new technology. People tend to see what they expect to see. It's also wise to compare apples to apples. Those using batteries in a marine environment, or maybe aircraft environment face significantly different conditions temperature extreme wise than what you might encounter in a land based RV. Finding data for use in situations closely resembling what you may encounter can be difficult give the relatively small amount of information currently available.
2015 Ram 3500 Laramie CTD, 4X4, AISIN, B&W Companion Puck Mount
2016 Heartland Bighorn 3270RS, 1kw solar with Trimetric and dual SC2030, 600 watt and 2k inverters.
mapguy wrote:
don't tease - how about a link?
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
I spent $28 to get an interactive miniature computer energy management meter that has a pair of terminals capable on controlling the coil to 1000 ma of a relay. Choose high or low voltage disconnect. Reasonably accurate to .005 + or - Thing makes a Samsung S8 menu look like a Dick & Jane primer.
I spent $28 to get an interactive miniature computer energy management meter that has a pair of terminals capable on controlling the coil to 1000 ma of a relay. Choose high or low voltage disconnect. Reasonably accurate to .005 + or - Thing makes a Samsung S8 menu look like a Dick & Jane primer.
don't tease - how about a link?
The moon is right, the vampires have risen, I have modem connectivity today...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/172281588037?_tr........2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Just spent 14 weeks in Labrador/Newfoundland and then another 14 weeks in Mexico (Yucatán, Chiapas l, Morelia, and West Coast) and did not plug in the last five weeks. This was done in Roadtrek since there are places you cannot take a fifth wheel - and if you do, you may not get back out). 5th wheel was left at son's place at 7500' in northern NM where temperatures got down to -20 F but battery suite was disconnected. The Roadtrek battery suite is 125 pounds and would require almost 500 pounds for equivalent lead acid battery suit
Cris at Technomadia was quite candid about heat damage to his LFP bank. Their bus was in for repair in Arizona in summer and was sitting on asphalt. The battery bank and inverter were in the same non-vented compartment where the temperature could easily be excess of 130 F. They made mistakes as the pioneers in LFP for RVs. We have paid attention to their mistakes as well as to their innovations
Our battery bank and 4kW PSWI of 5th wheel are in front bay where three panels can be opened for cross ventilation and is in shade of front overhang. Put our outside remote thermometer in front bay on summer days and have never had temperature above ambient with panels open. We do have two 12 V outlets for fans if it were to get hotter. Also have 110 V outlets for light bulbs to heat compartment were it to get to cold.
The battery bank and 2.5 kW PSWI in Roadtrek are below bed. Son put in fan and thermostat to draw air from cabin to cool battery bank and PSWI above about 95 F.
Reed and Elaine
* This post was edited 04/17/17 10:12am by reed cundiff *
gmctoyman wrote:
How much .. Facebook stock did you buy at IPO?
Some. Very close to ipo price, but I felt sorry for those who did at its offering because it didn't do so well for the first few months. How much .. Facebook stock did you buy at IPO?
Anyway, given that, I feel confident in my Li upgrade.
* This post was edited 04/27/17 03:50pm by 2oldman *