My husband and I currently own a Class C Bigfoot, but want to swap things up and get a truck camper next year.
We plan to hit the road in 2020 for a two-year full time sabbatical around the country.
Lot of boondocking, some casual off-roading (no rock climbing or anything).
We think we have chosen the camper we want.
We're down to a:
+ Adventurer 86FB with a company-detailed wet weight around 3,300
+ Adventurer 86SBS (company says 3782)
I'm having a tough time understanding the payload thing. When I look online, it seems no truck can handle this payload!
The challenge is we will need to buy a used truck and then wait for a used camper to come up on the market. Because I need to figure out what truck to buy, and probably fly elsewhere in the country to buy it (not many of these on the market in Atlanta) -- I can't really wait to weigh the truck or just go and weigh a new one before I buy it.
I would desperately like to avoid a dually, if possible. (As we want to do some offroading and the truck will be a daily driver for my husband for two years, and a dually in downtown Atlanta? Not cool).
I am hoping I can make it with either a:
+ 2006(ish) Chevy 3500 4x4 crew cab (NADA puts payload at 4300)
+ 2006(ish) Ford F350 4x4 crew cab (NADA puts payload at 3900)
Do this seem doable?
I've read other posts about payload and get quite lost when it comes to tires, airbags, axle ratings, etc.
Thank you so much for your patience with a frequently-asked question!!
Kendra
Remember to add 1000-1500 pounds for to the payload for all the stuff you need plus the manufacturers aren't always honest with their weights.
Anything is doable I guess.
We are over our factory spec of 4500 pound payload for our dually..
On another note having retired from construction I can say that if the toss up is between a ford or a chevy for new truck I would recommend chevy if Ram is out of the equation.
* This post was edited 03/14/17 01:58am by work2much *
2022 Ram 3500 Laramie CTD DRW Crew 4x4 Aisin 4:10 Air ride.
2020 Grand Design Solitude 2930RL 2520 watts solar. 600ah lithium. Magnum 4000 watt inverter.
My 11.5' camper is rated 3800lb by the factory, yet I am only 300 lb from maxing rear axle on dually and I really did not load it heavy.
Unfortunately campers do not allow you using front axle capacity, unless you move spare tire and propane tanks onto front bumper.
I've driven mu dually into Atlanta on numerous occasions without incident. Parking can be tricky but doable.
Good luck with your search.
2008 GMC Sierra 3500 SLT DRW D/A 4x4 (Big All)
2006 Ford F350 PSD SRW King Ranch 4x4 (Henry) (Sold)
B&W Companion, 90 Aux Fuel Tank, Scan Gauge II, Curt f/m hitch, Swagman XC
2015 Forest River Sierra 360 PDEK
DW Diane, DS Michael, FB Draco and Sabian
2011 F350 6.7L Diesel 4x4 CrewCab longbed Dually, 2019 Lance 1062, Torqlift Talons, Fast Guns, upper and lower Stable Loads, Super Hitch, 48" Super Truss, Airlift loadlifter 5000 extreme airbags
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator
This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.
Sold 04 Dynasty to our son after 14 great years.
Upgraded with a 08 HR Navigator 45’...
op wrote:
I am hoping I can make it with either a:
+ 2006(ish) Chevy 3500 4x4 crew cab (NADA puts payload at 4300)
I am hoping I can make it with either a:
+ 2006(ish) Chevy 3500 4x4 crew cab (NADA puts payload at 4300)
Gas or diesel ??
Actual payload of any pickup is gonna' be how much load can be placed in the bed which most if not all TC weight will be on a 3500 SRW chevy trucks 7050 RAWR.
I have no idea where NADA comes up with 4300 lb payload
These trucks simply don't have the OEM wheel/tire or rear spring pack capacities for 4300 lbs.
Just estimating some numbers for you.......many 3500 SRW GM trucks rear axles can weigh in the 3200-3300 ln range leaving around 3600-3700 for a max payload in the bed.
If your set on a one ton SRW truck for a big truck camper start thinking 19.5" tires and wheels and air bags on the rear.
op wrote:
+ 2006(ish) Ford F350 4x4 crew cab (NADA puts payload at 3900)
+ 2006(ish) Ford F350 4x4 crew cab (NADA puts payload at 3900)
Oh my ....... you better do lots of homework here if its a diesel. This will be Fords infamous 6.0 engine they quickly did away with. The 6.0 diesel engine was a fiasco for Ford and a very costly experience for many owners who many of us know first hand.
Check out a couple of the Ford diesel forums on the 6.0 engine for input straight from those that used them.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers
'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed
Generally speaking a 2500 class pickup weighs in around 2800-2900lbs on the rear axle empty with nothing in the bed. The RAWR is around 6100lbs. That leaves you about 3100-3200lbs of payload before you reach the axle rating.
Generally speaking a 3500 class SRW pickup weighs in around 3000-3100lbs on the rear axle empty with nothing in the bed. The RAWR is between 7100 and 7400lbs depending on the year of the truck and how it's equipped. That leaves you about 4000lbs of payload before you reach the axle rating.
Generally speaking a 3500 class DRW pickup weighs in around 3200-3300lbs on the rear axle empty with nothing in the bed. The RAWR on DRW trucks can vary quite a bit between 9000 and 10000lbs or more. But, you get the idea here right?
Basically you just need to know the RAWR, which you can get off the door sticker, to make an educated guess on the truck's payload.
That said, you will probably want to add some suspension helpers when approaching these heavy weights, because the truck is not designed to sit level with a full load, and a level truck drives better.
Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.
On first blush it is a mystery as to why manufacturers are so tight and so low with their GVW and GAW information. Buying a new 2001 truck at the beginning of the Diesel Warz I see a pattern evolving from trying to out max the competitor to severely under rating the rear axle capacity and then back again. Some of this is a result of their cadre of lawyers trying to keep their exposure to lawsuits at a minimum, "for safety reasons", some is a result of the measly tire capacity rating, "for safety reasons", and some is an effort to make you pay less on the registration due to the weight rating. My 2001.5, Generation 2 Cummins with a Dodge nameplate Dana 80 rear axle is rated at 6084 pounds stock and 7500 pounds with the Camper Package, "for safety reasons" as to not go over the single rear tire maximum weight rating of the tires that came with the truck. Dana rates the exact same axle @ 11,000 pounds. That's a pretty good safety margin.
Be sure you have some 'overage' in the GVW department, no matter how you get there:
1. if singles, tires AND wheels that are rated between 4100 pounds each to about 5000 pounds per. These can handle light off-roading and boon docking if you avoid deep sand.
2. Some kind of suspension help. There has been tome after tome written on here as to how to carry the load in a more controlled manner. Notice I did not say safer manner as there is really no way to raise the numbers of the manufacturer's load rating sticker, found either on the door pillar or on the glove box door.
3. Get the right truck for the job right away. If you are going to bivouac in the projected camper for two years, you want both the largest camper you can afford with solar and AC, and the largest, highest load rated truck to carry it. The longer you are on the road, the larger and better equipped you want both the camper and the conveyance to be.
If it were me, I would search for a 4 or 5 series truck with 19.5's with a camper already installed. You may have to search far and wide but the result should be satisfactory even if you have to pick up said rig in a far off locale.
jefe
Speaking of far off locale, here we are in June/2003 in Cold foot AK, well north of the Arctic Circle at a bug free camping spot in a gravel pit. Such a tiny rig for extended travel, but for a month we could take it. Two years: no.
![[image]](http://s194.photobucket.com/user/jefe4x4/media/DSCN0501_zpsmy41sbip.jpg.html)
'01.5 Dodge 2500 4x4, CTD, Qcab, SB, NV5600, 241HD, 4.10's, Dana 70/TruTrac; Dana 80/ TruTrac, Spintec hub conversion, H.D. susp, 315/75R16's on 7.5" and 10" wide steel wheels, Vulcan big line, Warn M15K winch '98 Lance Lite 165s, 8' 6" X-cab, 200w Solar
GordonThree wrote:
Just curious but why 12+ year old trucks? Do you like the smaller and lower body style of that generation or something else?
Just curious but why 12+ year old trucks? Do you like the smaller and lower body style of that generation or something else?
Price. We are hoping to stay around $18k, with <150k miles - and this seems to be where it lands is, age-wise.
Thank you all for the info and advice!
So deceptive that every photo you see of a truck camper is on an SRW.
And the manufacturers say these things can go on a half-ton or one-ton!
Whatever!!
So now I need to research how much off-reading (basically talking about forest service roads and such) a dually can do -- or decide whether I'm willing to live for 2 years in sometimes winter weather in a much lighter camper. (Can't go pop-up because of the winter thing)
Blargh nothing is easy!! But THANK YALL for your wisdoms!!
-k
A lighter duty truck could handle it, much more room, more availability and much better prices.
2012 Chevy 2500HD LTZ CCSB 4x4 gas
2012 Four Wheel Camper Hawk
2008 Harley Street Glide
kendyluv wrote:
Price. We are hoping to stay around $18k, with <150k miles - and this seems to be where it lands is, age-wise.
Thank you all for the info and advice!
So deceptive that every photo you see of a truck camper is on an SRW.
And the manufacturers say these things can go on a half-ton or one-ton!
Whatever!!
So now I need to research how much off-reading (basically talking about forest service roads and such) a dually can do -- or decide whether I'm willing to live for 2 years in sometimes winter weather in a much lighter camper. (Can't go pop-up because of the winter thing)
Blargh nothing is easy!! But THANK YALL for your wisdoms!!
-k
GordonThree wrote:
Just curious but why 12+ year old trucks? Do you like the smaller and lower body style of that generation or something else?
Just curious but why 12+ year old trucks? Do you like the smaller and lower body style of that generation or something else?
Price. We are hoping to stay around $18k, with <150k miles - and this seems to be where it lands is, age-wise.
Thank you all for the info and advice!
So deceptive that every photo you see of a truck camper is on an SRW.
And the manufacturers say these things can go on a half-ton or one-ton!
Whatever!!
So now I need to research how much off-reading (basically talking about forest service roads and such) a dually can do -- or decide whether I'm willing to live for 2 years in sometimes winter weather in a much lighter camper. (Can't go pop-up because of the winter thing)
Blargh nothing is easy!! But THANK YALL for your wisdoms!!
-k
Bet gordon3 knew the answer to that one.....seemed a bit leading.
Anyway, yes you'll see a lot of larger campers on srw HD pickups.....because it works just fine, within reason.
Read through a few pages here and you'll see the same bevy of opinions every time a weight question is asked. Bottom line is, there are many folks that believe the mfgs payload ratings are gospel and should not be stretched and others who are willing to roll with less of a factor of safety, or understand the components and real world limitations better.
I can not dispute that duallies haul campers better, but I do not believe they are necessary with a properly equipped srw truck for sub 5000lb campers.
You have a bit of research to do and this is a good start. Don't count out 2500 or 3500 srw pickups just yet.
PM me if you'd like to chat. I can give you my opinion and reasoning if you wish.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad
Lwiddis wrote:
I agree with Ivylog. Keep the C and pull Jeep.
I agree with Ivylog. Keep the C and pull Jeep.
Yeah, that was certainly the original plan when we bought the beast last year. But we've already come up against some size limitations in campgrounds (National Parks) even without a tow. And we are really hoping to be a bit more STEALTHY over the course of our two years on the road. I know a truck camper isn't exactly a panel van, but it seems slightly more low-key than a 29' RV towing a Jeep when it comes to sleeping in a parking lot on the DL.
We kicked around the idea of a Sprinter/Adventuremobile, but I don't think I can go two years without having a toilet with a door. I mean, I still want to eat thai food.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
And the issue you have is? You want more overload accidents? Seems prudent to me.
Kayteg1 wrote:
Seems that figuring out why a truck with 10,000 lb rear axle, 6000lb front axle is rated for 12,000 lb is rocket science.
Seems that figuring out why a truck with 10,000 lb rear axle, 6000lb front axle is rated for 12,000 lb is rocket science.
Nope, just truck class gvw ratings......
Fully loaded with 2 years of stuff, your camper will easily weigh 4500#. Yeah, you can do that on a single rear wheel truck if you are going on a weekend jaunt. To drive across country for 2 years? No way.
Truly, truly, you need a dually.
I realize you are on the opposite side of the country. But, my experience here in Seattle buying used stuff like cars and boats is to avoid the 2004, 2005, 2006 models.
In that time period "real estate only goes up in value" and too many people used their homes as ATM machines and bought too many toys at TOO HIGH A PRICE. The high prices they paid in are still reflected in the resale price today. Often you can find a newer 2009 or so for the same price since the manufacturers where giving away stuff then.
Your idea to avoid towing the Jeep with the Class B is right on. We RVed full time for two years in a 38 foot diesel pusher with a Jeep in tow. Heck, there were plenty of small towns we couldn't even stop in since there was no place to park. Also, don't ever miss your turn unless you want to drive 17 miles out of your way to make a U turn.
![[image]](http://www.raincityhome.com/RAWH/1321.JPG)
![[image]](http://www.raincityhome.com/Odessa5.JPG)
Whizbang
2002 Winnebago Minnie
http://www.raincityhome.com/RAWH/index.htm
No need to buy a truck now. Trucks are dime a dozen and quite frankly way overpriced currently with the good economy and lack of inventory.
Just wait 2 years and then buy the truck. Or if you're handy, buy a 1ton srw now and make it a dually when you're ready to roll 3 years from now.
Can pretty much promise that having a dually won't limit you where you can go with a TC. The camper is as wide as the fenders and the whole thing is heavy enough you're not going 4 wheelin with a camper attached.
I start shopping for new truck almost a year ago.
Would not mind used, but 4-5 years old trucks at the time were selling in $50k range, when I could find new on dealer lot for 60k.
Than I focus on new models options. What dealers offer did not fit my needs at all, so finally I ended up placing custom order in December 2016 to have delivery in February 2017.
The wait "paid back"
In 2016 models the GPS was like $800 option.
For 2017 voice-activated GPS cost $550.
So I ended with 2017 model, who is way up in technology comparing to 2016 for less money. Aluminium body has mixed review, but carrying aluminum tailgate sure beats carrying steel one and I could not find direct comparison, but my truck is almost 1000lb lighter, aka better mpg and better payload.
Than my 2007 dually with 170k on 6l diesel brought me only $4k in trade.
2014 Ram 1500 Eco Diesel
It's all psychological about how hard it supposedly is to drive around in a dually.
It's barely any different than any full size American truck.
I drive mine daily.
* This post was edited 03/20/17 10:42am by burningman *
2017 Northern Lite 10-2 EX CD SE
99 Ram 4x4 Dually Cummins
A whole lot more fuel, a whole lot more boost.
4.10 gears, Gear Vendors overdrive, exhaust brake
Built auto, triple disc, billet shafts.
Kelderman Air Ride, Helwig sway bar.
billyray50 wrote:
Is that correct? 2007 DRW only got you a 4K trade?
Is that correct? 2007 DRW only got you a 4K trade?
Yeah. It was originally C&C truck with not much on it, but good truck.
Bulletproof EGR cooler, new oil cooler, but still original headgasket on 6l.
The headgaskets on 6l sure make for low truck value.
whizbang wrote:
mkirsch's summary was exactly spot on.
mkirsch's summary was exactly spot on.
If only everybody would agree with me. The world would get along so much better...
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
In case you're still looking, here are some actual weights for the 2006 3500 4wd crew cab SRW Chevy option you're considering.
Empty weights with 2 passengers and a full tank of gas:
Front axle: 3,620 (max rating = 4,800)
Rear axle: 2,980 (max rating = 6,500)
Total: 6,600 (max rating 9,900)
Same truck with Adventurer 80W, 2 passengers, full tank of gas, loaded for a weekend trip:
Front axle: 4,100
Rear axle: 4,980
Total: 9,080
Sticker on the Adventurer 80W lists the wet weight as 2,062. Hope this helps.
2006 Chevy 3500 SRW, Vortec 6.0L, CC/LB
2013 Adventurer 80W
Perhaps a better option is a dually with the one-slide camper and just sticking to reasonable Forest Service roads for boondocking. Realistically, that probably all we could do even with a pimped-out SRW and camper with the minimum level of things we need.
Then when we settle down, we can kick it expedition style with a pop-up on an SRW and really go crazy.
If I was fulltiming In a TC I'd want the room of a longer model with a slide out or 2 and like I said above, a dually is the "right" piece of equipment to haul that.
The flip side to that is if you're going all boondocks on us, you stay somewhere you like for a while, drop the camper and the srw is more handy for 4wheelin but once you get into crew cab, long bed trucks, it's not much better than a dually cause it's sooo long.
Either way, I'd expect good service out of any 1 ton truck srw or drw if you keep the camper somewhat manageable.
That pig of a camper in my sig would ride a lot nicer on a long bed truck with the additional wheel base. I've been comfortable to take it to Alaska and cross country. Wouldn't think twice about doing that long term either.
Out of the box, minimal mods to the truck (suspension, better tires/ wheels) the nod still goes to the dually.
Ideally I'd do the dually and have a small enclosed trailer for some dirt or snow toys, or flat tow a little jeep or something. But now you're talking more $$$$$.
'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed
It's impossible to always be where the weather is nice. I know. I tried.
So you end up with layers of clothes for every season and occasion. Toss in a few extra tools and toys for a two year haul, and you end up with a very large camper stuffed to the max. A very heavy load indeed.
Quite frankly, if a dually isn't in the budget, ought you be going at all?