While I do have road service available what if I have a flat and don't have cell phone coverage??
Now I'm thinking maybe a jack wouldn't be a bad idea.
Looks like I'll need something around 15,000 lbs.
Any suggestions??
Due to depreciation the above opinions are now worth less than what you paid for them.
We are all good at something.....
I just happen to be a good bad example.
2016 Forest River Forester 3011DSF
Amazon 8-Ton jack $25.
You should have a few boards with you to block the tires and maybe for under the jack depending on how high up your jacking point is. You should be able to use the boards you use for leveling.
Bill
Nodwell RN110 out moose hunting. 4-53 Detroit, Clark 5 spd, 40" wide tracks, 10:00x20 tires, 16,000# capacity, 22,000# weight. You know the mud is getting deep when it's coming in the doors.
 (200x149) (2) (130x97) (110x82).jpg)
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C
2003 Winnebago Minnie 24F - Ford E-450">
The Ford manual describes where the jack points are.
You should also make sure you have the other necessary equipment: a lug wrench (I use a breaker bar and socket and extension for the back wheel), a set of wheel chocks, and perhaps a way to put air in the spare if it's not up to snuff. The wheel chocks are quite important, and doubly so if your parking brake is one of the drive shaft mounted ones as jacking one back corner off the ground renders that style of brake completely inoperative. I think the drive shaft brake was only used for a few years on the E series in the late 90's and early 2000's, but I might be wrong about that.
Some where on the inter-net I found how to convert the jack.
Dusty
She had a second tread separation on the next trip. Close to the same location as the first, and again was told it would be a "couple hours" before Good Sam could get someone out to her.
I changed that one myself.
So yes, I would get one of the jacks that is suggested here. And I would also get a large breaker bar for the lugs. I think changing her tire took me about 10 minutes. I had extra motivation due to the "excitement" of changing the tire street side on the interstate with cars and trucks flying by at 75 MPH. Which was still better than waiting hours for someone to help.
2012 RAM 3500 Laramie Longhorn DRW CC 4x4 Max Tow, Cummins HO, 60 gallon RDS aux fuel tank, Reese 18k Elite hitch
2003 Dodge Ram 3500 QC SB 4x4 Cummins HO NV5600 with Smarty JR, Jacobs EB (sold)
2002 Gulf Stream Sea Hawk 29FRB with Honda EV6010
4 whopping cylinders on Toyota RV's. Talk about great getting good MPG. Also I have a very light foot on the pedal. I followed some MPG advice on Livingpress.com and I now get 22 MPG! Not bad for a home on wheels.
i find the bottle jack works well for frame leveling with jack stands instead of using boards under the tires, less house shake when kids are rambuntious
I have a short 10-ton that HF sold awhile ago, and it works. Would rather have the double-extending 12-ton noted above.
Drew's right that a six-ton, even a four-ton, CAN lift one corner of a 31-ft Class C. Problem is, the handle effort that would be easy standing next to the coach, is VERY difficult when you have to operate the jack "crawlin' on yer belly like a reptile." That's why I like the 12. Much bigger, say 20, and the jack gets heavy to place. And maybe too tall to get under the axle when the tires aren't aired up.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB
A small jack might be nice for the spare as you may need to have to raise the side to access the tire and to do that another jack could be required. I have only used mine to add tire extensions but the stuff worked. Also Camp WOrld sold/sells an extension for the spare which allows you to check the pressure WITHOUT having to crawl under the bus to do.
Just some thoughts.
Run the generator for AC and have a good extension cord available to plug into the outside outlet.
Do you have a safety jack stand or are you willing to bet your life on the jack alone? I will not crawl under any vehicle that is lifted-supported by just a jack. If it fails and you are underneath the rig bad things are going to happen quickly.
While rare, jacks do fail, had a 6 ton model that jacked the coach up just fine and then immediately began to slip back down {a seal had dried out and was leaking hydraulic fluid}. My new jack is an 8 ton bottle style.
I also carry a small compressor, large lug wrench, tire repair kit, wooden blocks etc., essentially any and everything needed to safely change and or repair a tire. I'll call Coach Net but if they cannot get to me in 30 minutes or less, which often may be the case, I will change it myself and get out of the "Dead Zone" on the shoulder of the highway-interstate.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/cool.gif "cool")
04 SunSeeker 2890
We once drove around 5 miles on the road shoulder with one rear tire flat to get to a place where the tire could be repaired. We drove very slowly and our Class C is only a 24 footer, with a loaded weight less than 12,000 lbs.. The Load Range E good tire in the dual set that we drove on in the rear went on to give many years of service, so it was not damaged by the few miles of serious over-loading.
Nels&Connie wrote:
Ford rims are hubcentric, i have to use a big gear puller to get the outside dual off. (anti seize is your friend) the fronts are no problem.
Ford rims are hubcentric, i have to use a big gear puller to get the outside dual off. (anti seize is your friend) the fronts are no problem.
A few years ago when I wanted to replace the rear brake pads I discovered that no amount of prying or hammering would get the rims off the rear hub. As shown in the picture below, the rims are a tight fit to the hub so that they are centered. They had rusted together. The only way I could break them loose was to put the lug nuts back on finger tight, drop off the jack, let the RV roll forward a bit, then sharply apply the brakes. The lug holes are oversize for the lug bolts, so the rims could move slightly to break free from the rust.
After the brake job I put some caliper grease (I didn't have any anti-seize) on the hub in the hope that the rims won't get stuck again.
![[image]](http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/CloudDriver/E450%20Rear%20Brake%20Pads/2013-03-11_004_zps2bc78201.jpg)
Nels&Connie wrote:
i have to use a big gear puller to get the outside duel off. (anti seize is your friend) the fronts are no problem.
i have to use a big gear puller to get the outside duel off. (anti seize is your friend) the fronts are no problem.
There's a 9th hole in the wheel lug pattern, between two of the actual mounting holes. It's about 7/16". I tapped that wheel on all 7 of our wheels 1/2" fine thread, like boat trailer lug bolts. I can thread a lug bolt in one of the holes,and use a wrench to push the wheel off that rust. The rear wheels have to be installed with the two valves one stud hole off from directly opposite. Otherwise the lug will screw into the inner wheel instead of push on it.
Desert Captain wrote:
Something else to be considered while we discuss jacks...
Do you have a safety jack stand or are you willing to bet your life on the jack alone? I will not crawl under any vehicle that is lifted-supported by just a jack. If it fails and you are underneath the rig bad things are going to happen quickly.
While rare, jacks do fail, had a 6 ton model that jacked the coach up just fine and then immediately began to slip back down {a seal had dried out and was leaking hydraulic fluid}. My new jack is an 8 ton bottle style.
Something else to be considered while we discuss jacks...
Do you have a safety jack stand or are you willing to bet your life on the jack alone? I will not crawl under any vehicle that is lifted-supported by just a jack. If it fails and you are underneath the rig bad things are going to happen quickly.
While rare, jacks do fail, had a 6 ton model that jacked the coach up just fine and then immediately began to slip back down {a seal had dried out and was leaking hydraulic fluid}. My new jack is an 8 ton bottle style.
There's no need to crawl under the vehicle while it's supported by the jack when changing a tire, so jack stands are unnecessary for that particular case. Still, the advice to never do so is spot-on. At least my motorhome has sufficient clearance underneath for me to crawl around relatively easily without jacking it up. My Honda Fit is quite a different matter.
Lacking a jack stand, properly laid up cribbing is a viable alternative. (It's worth noting that many jack stand weight ratings are per pair. A set of six ton jack stands are usually rated at three tons apiece and would be marginal or insufficient for the back axle of many class C's.)
DrewE wrote:
There's no need to crawl under the vehicle while it's supported by the jack when changing a tire, so jack stands are unnecessary for that particular case. Still, the advice to never do so is spot-on. At least my motorhome has sufficient clearance underneath for me to crawl around relatively easily without jacking it up. My Honda Fit is quite a different matter.
Lacking a jack stand, properly laid up cribbing is a viable alternative. (It's worth noting that many jack stand weight ratings are per pair. A set of six ton jack stands are usually rated at three tons apiece and would be marginal or insufficient for the back axle of many class C's.)
Desert Captain wrote:
Something else to be considered while we discuss jacks...
Do you have a safety jack stand or are you willing to bet your life on the jack alone? I will not crawl under any vehicle that is lifted-supported by just a jack. If it fails and you are underneath the rig bad things are going to happen quickly.
While rare, jacks do fail, had a 6 ton model that jacked the coach up just fine and then immediately began to slip back down {a seal had dried out and was leaking hydraulic fluid}. My new jack is an 8 ton bottle style.
Something else to be considered while we discuss jacks...
Do you have a safety jack stand or are you willing to bet your life on the jack alone? I will not crawl under any vehicle that is lifted-supported by just a jack. If it fails and you are underneath the rig bad things are going to happen quickly.
While rare, jacks do fail, had a 6 ton model that jacked the coach up just fine and then immediately began to slip back down {a seal had dried out and was leaking hydraulic fluid}. My new jack is an 8 ton bottle style.
There's no need to crawl under the vehicle while it's supported by the jack when changing a tire, so jack stands are unnecessary for that particular case. Still, the advice to never do so is spot-on. At least my motorhome has sufficient clearance underneath for me to crawl around relatively easily without jacking it up. My Honda Fit is quite a different matter.
Lacking a jack stand, properly laid up cribbing is a viable alternative. (It's worth noting that many jack stand weight ratings are per pair. A set of six ton jack stands are usually rated at three tons apiece and would be marginal or insufficient for the back axle of many class C's.)
You may not have to "crawl" per se to be exposed to disaster should a jack fail. Pulling that inner dually off you will probably be head and shoulders inside of the wheel well pulling, jerking and shaking the rig.... do yourself a favor and always use a jack stand {of the appropriate rating}.
Desert Captain wrote:
You may not have to "crawl" per se to be exposed to disaster should a jack fail. Pulling that inner dually off you will probably be head and shoulders inside of the wheel well pulling, jerking and shaking the rig.... do yourself a favor and always use a jack stand {of the appropriate rating}.
DrewE wrote:
There's no need to crawl under the vehicle while it's supported by the jack when changing a tire, so jack stands are unnecessary for that particular case. Still, the advice to never do so is spot-on. At least my motorhome has sufficient clearance underneath for me to crawl around relatively easily without jacking it up. My Honda Fit is quite a different matter.
Lacking a jack stand, properly laid up cribbing is a viable alternative. (It's worth noting that many jack stand weight ratings are per pair. A set of six ton jack stands are usually rated at three tons apiece and would be marginal or insufficient for the back axle of many class C's.)
Desert Captain wrote:
Something else to be considered while we discuss jacks...
Do you have a safety jack stand or are you willing to bet your life on the jack alone? I will not crawl under any vehicle that is lifted-supported by just a jack. If it fails and you are underneath the rig bad things are going to happen quickly.
While rare, jacks do fail, had a 6 ton model that jacked the coach up just fine and then immediately began to slip back down {a seal had dried out and was leaking hydraulic fluid}. My new jack is an 8 ton bottle style.
Something else to be considered while we discuss jacks...
Do you have a safety jack stand or are you willing to bet your life on the jack alone? I will not crawl under any vehicle that is lifted-supported by just a jack. If it fails and you are underneath the rig bad things are going to happen quickly.
While rare, jacks do fail, had a 6 ton model that jacked the coach up just fine and then immediately began to slip back down {a seal had dried out and was leaking hydraulic fluid}. My new jack is an 8 ton bottle style.
There's no need to crawl under the vehicle while it's supported by the jack when changing a tire, so jack stands are unnecessary for that particular case. Still, the advice to never do so is spot-on. At least my motorhome has sufficient clearance underneath for me to crawl around relatively easily without jacking it up. My Honda Fit is quite a different matter.
Lacking a jack stand, properly laid up cribbing is a viable alternative. (It's worth noting that many jack stand weight ratings are per pair. A set of six ton jack stands are usually rated at three tons apiece and would be marginal or insufficient for the back axle of many class C's.)
You may not have to "crawl" per se to be exposed to disaster should a jack fail. Pulling that inner dually off you will probably be head and shoulders inside of the wheel well pulling, jerking and shaking the rig.... do yourself a favor and always use a jack stand {of the appropriate rating}.
That is why I added a remote hand pump to my hydraulic jack. I still have to crawl under to place the jack. But I'm out to the side when pumping the jack up.
Dusty
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/gObJOczl.jpg)
Tyrone & Gladys
27' 1986 Coachmen
That is a good idea to be sure but you missed my point completely. When you are trying to wrestle/pull that inner dually off of the axle you will be head and shoulders up inside of the wheel well. If the jack fails at that point without a jack stand you are well and truly.... in a world of hurt. This has nothing to do with sliding the jack under the axle and pumping it up.
Hate to be the harbinger of doom and gloom but stuff happens... plan for the worst and hope for the best. Be safe out there.
IAMICHABOD wrote:
I like a low profile one that I can get in a tight spot. MY Class C is fairly close to the ground One like this one fits the bill
If I ever have a good reason to replace my 6 ton bottle jack, I would get the one IAMICHABOD recommends.
I like a low profile one that I can get in a tight spot. MY Class C is fairly close to the ground One like this one fits the bill
2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow
2004 E350 Adventurer (Canadian) 20 footer - Alberta, Canada
No TV + 100W solar = no generator needed
Ed - on the Central Oregon coast
2018 Winnebago Fuse 23A
Scion xA toad
Norm's 2 cents
F1BNorm
Ed_Gee wrote:
A lot of class C Motorhomes I have seen have leveling jacks that could easily pressed into service for tire repair. Doesn't yours?
A lot of class C Motorhomes I have seen have leveling jacks that could easily pressed into service for tire repair. Doesn't yours?
A lot may have leveling jacks, but a lot more do not. Mine, at least, is one of the ones that do not. Given the weight of a set installed, I think I prefer having the payload for other uses.
2005 Jayco Escapade 28ZSLP (3500 Chevy chassis)
ericsmith32 wrote:
Got a low profile 12 ton from Harbor Freight last year. When there's another warm spell going to rotate the tires on the RV, that'll be it's yearly exercise. Whatever you have make you exercise it on occasion.
Got a low profile 12 ton from Harbor Freight last year. When there's another warm spell going to rotate the tires on the RV, that'll be it's yearly exercise. Whatever you have make you exercise it on occasion.
I did the same. I agree with the "exercise" and I spray some light lube around the ram and the pump rod periodically to keep rust at bay. This jack fits under the axle fine with enough room for a plank under the jack for soft ground.
John & Gloria
South West, Florida
2009 Leisure Travel Serenity
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
1983 24' Midas Freeport. Chevy 350 mated to a TH400 transmission on a GM G30 chassis and a spiffy Onan 4kw genset.
!*NEW Blog page*!
Rovin' Bones
Charles
'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO six speed, PacBrake Exh Brake, std cab, long bed, Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. previously (both gone) 2008 Thor/Dutchman Freedom Spirit 180 & 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome.
It's a bi#$% pumping the jack when you are crawled under the rig!! Depending on your age and health....it can give you a heart attack or at the very least a hernia!! That's why I carry the 20ton as the craking effort is less than a lower rated jack.
I carry these items for the same reasons you are contemplating...lack of cell service or availability of tow truck service.
I just used these tools as I needed to remove the wheels to install new mudflaps....everything worked great!
2023 GMC, 3500HD, Crew Cab, 6.6L Gas/6 Speed Auto, 4X4, Standard Bed; SRW
2011 Outback 250RS - Anniversary Edition
Equal-i-zer 10K