My question is have the newer Ram 4x4 trucks changed this system or at least put a zerk fitting there, or do I need to shop at the Ford or Chevy dealerships as I begin looking for a new truck......
I marked mine with a short line of paint. I jack up one front tire and roll the shaft until I see my mark. I lube at every oil change.
The newer Rams are running a disconnecting front axle, just like they did on the 2nd Gen 94-02, so that the front shaft is not spinning while in 2wd. They are still requiring the grease needle as far as I know.
2005 2500 Cummins/48RE/3.73, QCLB, 4wd, BigHorn, Edge Juice w/ CTS + Turbo Timer,Transgo Shift Kit ISSPro Oil and LP pressure gauges, GDP 20/2 filters, Custom Diesel Steering Box Brace
'10 Forest River Shockwave Toy Hauler 21'
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2017 F350 DRW XLT, CC, 4x4, 6.7
2018 Big Country 3560 SS
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"Catin' in the Winter"
ACZL wrote:
As for Ford, not aware of any grease fittings for front axle. Thought all sealed u-joints/universals?
As for Ford, not aware of any grease fittings for front axle. Thought all sealed u-joints/universals?
This is not on the u-joint, it's on the coupler that holds the two u-joints together.
I did my 08 2500 Ram many times like the OP and it never was easy. On my 14 3500 I have not found a place to lube it in the same place as the 08 so I wonder to if is still required. (and yes this truck has the axel disconnect)
2016 Montana 3100RL Legacy(LT's,Joy Rider 2's,disc brakes)
2014 Ram 3500 DRW Laramie Cummins/Aisin 14,000 GVWR
2014 Ford Expedition Limited, HD tow pkg
2016 Honda Civic EX-T
1999 Stingray 240LS
1994 Chevy 1500 5.7 PU
2018 John Deere 1025R
B&W RVK3600 Hitch
 (320x240) (320x240).gif)
2018 Ram 3500 DRW CCLB Aisin 4.10 4x4
2018 Jayco Talon 413T
B&W Companion
Here is a good video on HOW2 find it and grease it...Ditto grinding that sharp
point...ground and polished mine
Pay attention to the lube of this, as it is VERY expensive to replace and
lots of times, tough to balance...
RAM Front drive shaft hard to find lubrication fitting
and this one, which has more details as the shaft is removed from the vehicle
I also have this attachment and like it better than the one above
RAM front drive shaft lube
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
Arcamper wrote:
This is not on the u-joint, it's on the coupler that holds the two u-joints together.
I did my 08 2500 Ram many times like the OP and it never was easy. On my 14 3500 I have not found a place to lube it in the same place as the 08 so I wonder to if is still required. (and yes this truck has the axel disconnect)
ACZL wrote:
As for Ford, not aware of any grease fittings for front axle. Thought all sealed u-joints/universals?
As for Ford, not aware of any grease fittings for front axle. Thought all sealed u-joints/universals?
This is not on the u-joint, it's on the coupler that holds the two u-joints together.
I did my 08 2500 Ram many times like the OP and it never was easy. On my 14 3500 I have not found a place to lube it in the same place as the 08 so I wonder to if is still required. (and yes this truck has the axel disconnect)
My old truck was a 2006 ram CTD and could never find the needle grease point. Dealer and two other truck shops could not find it either? Traded in with 145,000 miles and no problems. I was at the dealer the other day with my 2015 3500 Ram CTD for a free oil change and asked them to grease it. Forgot to ask them after it was done.
Arcamper wrote:
On my 14 3500 I have not found a place to lube it in the same place as the 08 so I wonder to if is still required.
On my 14 3500 I have not found a place to lube it in the same place as the 08 so I wonder to if is still required.
I've owned my '14 for over a year and looked every time at oil change to find the grease point. Big dummy that I am was always looking for a zerk, not a needle fitting.
Thanks for posting those videos BenK. Now I finally know what to do.
KJ
'14 Ram 2500|Crew Cab Long Bed|4X4|Cummins
Curt Q20 with Ram 5th Wheel Prep
2000 Crownline 205BR
1997 Ranger Comanche 461VS
'01 Polaris Virage TX PWC
'94 Polaris SLT750 PWC
3 Wonderful Sons (21, 15, & 13)
1 forgiving wife!!!
AC
Yes they are a pain. Ive destroyed a couple needle fittings.
My 07 has no front axle disconnect or locking hubs so the shaft is always spinning.
I've greased it all of about 3x since new and at 150kmi the front driveshaft is still in good shape.
IMO if you hit it every 30-50kmi it's probably fine.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
![[image]](http://s269.photobucket.com/user/snoking1127/media/Towing%20Folder/33735953-ea43-4e4c-9bd7-b08357a79a6e_zpsfu5oyyyw.jpg.html)
2021 F150 2.7 Ecoboost - Summer Home 2017 Bighorn 3575el. Can Am Spyder RT-L Chrome, Kawasaki KRX1000. Retired and enjoying it! RIP DW 07-05-2021
They looked and said there's no grease fitting.
At least they were able to change the oil.
2014 ORV Timber Ridge 240RKS,8500#,1250# tongue,44K miles
690W Rooftop + 340W Portable Solar,4 GC2s,215Ah@24V
2016 Ram 2500 4x4 RgCab CTD,2507# payload,10.8 mpgUS tow
brulaz wrote:
Heh, asked my dealer to do it.
They looked and said there's no grease fitting.
At least they were able to change the oil.
That's what my dealer said, too. It's easily accessible with a grease gun and needle once you know where it's located. Granted, some may find it difficult to find the first time. My '16 Ram 3500 has a white & black sticker right on the fender that specifically states the front driveshaft must be lubricated during regular maintenance.
Heh, asked my dealer to do it.
They looked and said there's no grease fitting.
At least they were able to change the oil.
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed
otrfun wrote:
brulaz wrote:
Heh, asked my dealer to do it.
They looked and said there's no grease fitting.
At least they were able to change the oil.
That's what my dealer said, too. It's easily accessible with a grease gun and needle once you know where it's located. Granted, some may find it difficult to find the first time. My '16 Ram 3500 has a white & black sticker right on the fender that specifically states the front driveshaft must be lubricated during regular maintenance.Heh, asked my dealer to do it.
They looked and said there's no grease fitting.
At least they were able to change the oil.
And what do we do if something really serious happens?
Have been looking further afield for a mechanic that knows what's what. But they're few and far between.
brulaz wrote:
Have been looking further afield for a mechanic that knows what's what. But they're few and far between.
Have been looking further afield for a mechanic that knows what's what. But they're few and far between.
I think my best service tech is the one that drives my RAM on a daily bases. Chris
Me Again wrote:
I think my best service tech is the one that drives my RAM on a daily bases. Chris
brulaz wrote:
Have been looking further afield for a mechanic that knows what's what. But they're few and far between.
Have been looking further afield for a mechanic that knows what's what. But they're few and far between.
I think my best service tech is the one that drives my RAM on a daily bases. Chris
I wish. But old age and arthritis are taking their toll.
GordonThree wrote:
Huge warning sticker under the hood on my '17... It's impossible to miss. Clearly states in big print to lube the axle at every oil change, see manual.
Huge warning sticker under the hood on my '17... It's impossible to miss. Clearly states in big print to lube the axle at every oil change, see manual.
Having no idea ,but have read somewhere that driveline does not turn unless its shifted to 4 wheel dr. I would have to believe that some hardly ever use four wheel dr. Getting greased every six months or 15k on these newer trucks might not be a big deal.
There seems to be a lot of talk on other forums about this. It could be critical.
![[image]](https://s19.postimg.org/vsdcw8u1f/Ram_4x4_Front_Driveshaft_Grease_Hole_Location_1.jpg)
![[image]](https://s19.postimg.org/3tj75dser/Ram_4x4_Front_Driveshaft_Grease_Hole_Location_2.jpg)
* This post was edited 01/13/17 10:09pm by otrfun *
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/mad.gif "mad")
2013 Ram 3500 Megacab DRW Laramie 4x4, 6.7L Cummins, G56, 3.73, Maximum Steel, black lthr, B&W RVK3670 hitch, Retrax, Linex, and a bunch of options incl. cargo camera
2008 Corsair Excella Platinum 34.5 CKTS fifth wheel with winter package & disc brakes
blofgren wrote:
With the 2013 and up trucks, they have the CAD so the front end components are not rotating all the time like previous models. Because of this I don't think it's as critical to lube this joint as much as the previous models. My truck has the protection package (or something like that) which includes a skid plate covering the transfer case which makes lubing this joint a major PITA. I think I will remove the plate on an annual basis to make this task a bit easier but I will still make sure my son isn't in the garage at the time because the air tends to get a bit "thick" while performing this task.
I have the optional skid plate on our '16 Ram 3500 Cummins SRW and still have easy access to the front driveshaft grease port. Don't have to remove anything to access anything. Is this area on the front part of the transfer case different on the DRW? Did you see the pics I posted a couple posts back?
With the 2013 and up trucks, they have the CAD so the front end components are not rotating all the time like previous models. Because of this I don't think it's as critical to lube this joint as much as the previous models. My truck has the protection package (or something like that) which includes a skid plate covering the transfer case which makes lubing this joint a major PITA. I think I will remove the plate on an annual basis to make this task a bit easier but I will still make sure my son isn't in the garage at the time because the air tends to get a bit "thick" while performing this task.
GordonThree wrote:
Huge warning sticker under the hood on my '17... It's impossible to miss. Clearly states in big print to lube the axle at every oil change, see manual.
Huge warning sticker under the hood on my '17... It's impossible to miss. Clearly states in big print to lube the axle at every oil change, see manual.
True, but what is every oil change??? Some may need to be changed at 5K or 15 like mine. The shaft does NOT turn unless in 4wd. So take the whole grease at every oil change with a grain of salt!!! I did mine at 24K and will wait until 50-60 K before doing it again.
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/oWw1WB1l.jpg)
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"
"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600
2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable
2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD
Thanks guys. Now i know what to look for. I would have been looking for a grease zerk
2017 Dodge Ram 2500 HD, 4x4, CCSB, 6.4L HEMI, Snow Chief, tow package.,1989 Skyline Layton model 75-2251.
I have done this at least a dozen times and here is what the pictures don't show you. Yes the pictures make it look easy and bright.
In reality you jack up the left front tire, transmission in neutral, I have 6 spd manual. Then you can rotate the shaft by hand or turn the wheel to move the drive shaft. Then on your creeper facing back you try and find a place for your light to light up the fitting, turning the shaft to either the 9 or 3 position. Your neck is now starting to cramp up as you lift it off the creeper looking over the cross member & side frame. Now you take the needle being carful not to stab yourself and begin the process of getting it in the hole. But your hand with the needle in it blocks the light showing you the hole. So you poke and prod around trying to get into the hole and now your neck can no longer take it and you mush lay it back down on the creeper. Back at it now you finally think you have it in, but with your hand holding the needle in, you are not sure and cannot see. So you hold the needle in and begin to back off to the rubber hose of the gun so you can keep the needle in and see, using a flashlight you see you are in. Now get the gun and you need the pistol grip type, as it is probably laying on your chest. Neck is now almost into second stage cramping as you are always trying to see. Pump the gun 3 or 4 pumps slow as the needle opening is very small.
Once you are set up to go, I agree with what someone said, it only takes a minuet & 3 pumps, hummmmm I think I heard that 50 years ago only in the vehicle not under it..........
So if you have taken your Ram to a Walmart or quick lube, even the dealer over the years, I don't think you ever got this greased. As I said to move the shaft you have to jack up the left front tire to do that and I never saw any tech do that while they are in the pit you drive over to drain the oil. Maybe if it was on a lift but that is not used very often for an oil change. Maybe now the newer Rams if you just put the truck in neutral you can turn the drive shaft by hand. If so it could be done in a grease pit, but not the older ones. Either jack it up or drive it moving an inch or less at a time with the tech under the truck trying to line it up & I don't see that happening.
Its not a hard project as you are not changing the guidance system in a cruise missile, but it is a real pain in the butt...........
otrfun wrote:
blofgren wrote:
With the 2013 and up trucks, they have the CAD so the front end components are not rotating all the time like previous models. Because of this I don't think it's as critical to lube this joint as much as the previous models. My truck has the protection package (or something like that) which includes a skid plate covering the transfer case which makes lubing this joint a major PITA. I think I will remove the plate on an annual basis to make this task a bit easier but I will still make sure my son isn't in the garage at the time because the air tends to get a bit "thick" while performing this task.
I have the optional skid plate on our '16 Ram 3500 Cummins SRW and still have easy access to the front driveshaft grease port. Don't have to remove anything to access anything. Is this area on the front part of the transfer case different on the DRW? Did you see the pics I posted a couple posts back?With the 2013 and up trucks, they have the CAD so the front end components are not rotating all the time like previous models. Because of this I don't think it's as critical to lube this joint as much as the previous models. My truck has the protection package (or something like that) which includes a skid plate covering the transfer case which makes lubing this joint a major PITA. I think I will remove the plate on an annual basis to make this task a bit easier but I will still make sure my son isn't in the garage at the time because the air tends to get a bit "thick" while performing this task.
Yes the access to mine definitely looks more restricted than your pics show. It's been a while since I've looked so I'll have to look again.
I also need to either put the truck on ramps or jack it up to be able to access this area because there is not enough clearance for me to lay in this area with the truck sitting on level ground.
Cummins12V98 wrote:
True, but what is every oil change??? Some may need to be changed at 5K or 15 like mine. The shaft does NOT turn unless in 4wd. So take the whole grease at every oil change with a grain of salt!!! I did mine at 24K and will wait until 50-60 K before doing it again.
GordonThree wrote:
Huge warning sticker under the hood on my '17... It's impossible to miss. Clearly states in big print to lube the axle at every oil change, see manual.
Huge warning sticker under the hood on my '17... It's impossible to miss. Clearly states in big print to lube the axle at every oil change, see manual.
True, but what is every oil change??? Some may need to be changed at 5K or 15 like mine. The shaft does NOT turn unless in 4wd. So take the whole grease at every oil change with a grain of salt!!! I did mine at 24K and will wait until 50-60 K before doing it again.
Exactly my thoughts too.
That's about right except you left out the part where u can't see the fitting so you give a couple squirts of grease to find out it didn't take. Try it again, this time the grease glob falls on your shirt. While wiping it off and moving the shop light for a better look because u kno that d@mn fitting is right there, you smear some grease on the light bulb. It starts smoking.
Finally get that stupid needle in the hole but now the light bulb popped and you're in the dark, crawl out change the bulb cause hands are too greesy to use your cell phone flashlight, then forget how many squirts of grease may have made it in there!
In reality, on th new trucks, I wouldn't worry about it until you think you've got 10000 miles or more in 4wd. The front driveshaft is just an architectural feature unless running in 4x4.
Grit dog wrote:
Good description whisky river!
That's about right except you left out the part where u can't see the fitting so you give a couple squirts of grease to find out it didn't take. Try it again, this time the grease glob falls on your shirt. While wiping it off and moving the shop light for a better look because u kno that d@mn fitting is right there, you smear some grease on the light bulb. It starts smoking.
Finally get that stupid needle in the hole but now the light bulb popped and you're in the dark, crawl out change the bulb cause hands are too greesy to use your cell phone flashlight, then forget how many squirts of grease may have made it in there!
In reality, on th new trucks, I wouldn't worry about it until you think you've got 10000 miles or more in 4wd. The front driveshaft is just an architectural feature unless running in 4x4.
Good description whisky river!
That's about right except you left out the part where u can't see the fitting so you give a couple squirts of grease to find out it didn't take. Try it again, this time the grease glob falls on your shirt. While wiping it off and moving the shop light for a better look because u kno that d@mn fitting is right there, you smear some grease on the light bulb. It starts smoking.
Finally get that stupid needle in the hole but now the light bulb popped and you're in the dark, crawl out change the bulb cause hands are too greesy to use your cell phone flashlight, then forget how many squirts of grease may have made it in there!
In reality, on th new trucks, I wouldn't worry about it until you think you've got 10000 miles or more in 4wd. The front driveshaft is just an architectural feature unless running in 4x4.
Good point...23,800 miles and have not used truck in 4 wheel yet.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
Looks like we're talking about two different trucks at the same time.
If you have a pre 2013 (3500), or pre 2014 (2500) Ram truck you do not have the axle disconnect feature---you cannot turn the front driveshaft by hand. That certainly makes greasing the front driveshaft on the older Rams a pain-in-the-butt. On these older Rams you gotta lift up the wheel(s) in order to rotate the front driveshaft. However, on the newer Rams with the axle disconnect, you simply turn the front driveshaft by hand to locate and position the grease port for greasing.
As far as grease needle access to the grease port on the newer Rams, last night I took and posted pictures of the grease port on our '16 Ram 3500 SRW and posted them to this thread. With a flashlight in one hand and my iphone in the other, it took me about 2 minutes to position the front driveshaft and take 4 or 5 pictures of the grease port. If I had had a grease gun (and Lincoln #5803 grease needle) with me at the time it would have only taken me a minute to grease the grease port while I was there. I might add my truck does have the optional transfer case skid plate. This plate in no way interferes with access to the grease port.
I would agree with the premise that lubricating the front driveshaft on the newer Rams is not a critical as it used to be on the older Rams. However, if you're one that typically follows the manufacturer's suggested maintenance intervals, then the front driveshaft should be greased every 7.5k miles (ref pg.318 of my '16 Ram 3500 maintenance chart). If you're one that does not typically follow the manufacturer's suggested maintenance intervals, then feel free to ignore this requirement.
I agree the newer trucks with the front drive shaft that dis-engages should not need greased near as much. I probably don't have 500 miles in 4wd but the shaft spins constantly.
blofgren I have moved the skid plate also. I think there are 4 bolts & remove 3 & loosen 1 & you can swing the plate out of the way. It does give you a little more room.
The_real_wild1 wrote:
Glad I have a chev now. I don't miss that front driveshaft.
Glad I have a chev now. I don't miss that front driveshaft.
No big deal. Only has to be done a few times per year. A small price to pay to drive a Ram.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
* This post was edited 01/14/17 06:05pm by Camper G *
'12 Ford Super Duty FX4 ELD CC 6.7 PSD 400HP 800ft/lbs "270k Miles"
'16 Sprinter 319MKS "Wide Body"
FishOnOne wrote:
At 110k miles my truck hasn't seen a grease gun.
At 110k miles my truck hasn't seen a grease gun.
some of the grease monkeys are very sneaky
chevman
chevman
2019 rockwood 34 ft fifth wheel sold
2005 3500 2wd duramax CC dually
prodigy
KSH 55 inbed fuel tank
scanguage II
TD-EOC
Induction Overhaul Kit
TST tire monitors
FMCA # F479110
larry barnhart wrote:
some of the grease monkeys are very sneaky
chevman
FishOnOne wrote:
At 110k miles my truck hasn't seen a grease gun.
At 110k miles my truck hasn't seen a grease gun.
some of the grease monkeys are very sneaky
chevman
I suppose so...
Grit dog wrote:
Good description whisky river!
That's about right except you left out the part where u can't see the fitting so you give a couple squirts of grease to find out it didn't take. Try it again, this time the grease glob falls on your shirt. While wiping it off and moving the shop light for a better look because u kno that d@mn fitting is right there, you smear some grease on the light bulb. It starts smoking.
Finally get that stupid needle in the hole but now the light bulb popped and you're in the dark, crawl out change the bulb cause hands are too greesy to use your cell phone flashlight, then forget how many squirts of grease may have made it in there!
In reality, on th new trucks, I wouldn't worry about it until you think you've got 10000 miles or more in 4wd. The front driveshaft is just an architectural feature unless running in 4x4.
Good description whisky river!
That's about right except you left out the part where u can't see the fitting so you give a couple squirts of grease to find out it didn't take. Try it again, this time the grease glob falls on your shirt. While wiping it off and moving the shop light for a better look because u kno that d@mn fitting is right there, you smear some grease on the light bulb. It starts smoking.
Finally get that stupid needle in the hole but now the light bulb popped and you're in the dark, crawl out change the bulb cause hands are too greesy to use your cell phone flashlight, then forget how many squirts of grease may have made it in there!
In reality, on th new trucks, I wouldn't worry about it until you think you've got 10000 miles or more in 4wd. The front driveshaft is just an architectural feature unless running in 4x4.
LOL, thanks for the laughs, guys! One thing that has been forgotten is mumbling every cuss word known to man while you search around the garage for another grease gun accessory that you hope will work but deep down know it won't!
blofgren wrote:
LOL, thanks for the laughs, guys! One thing that has been forgotten is mumbling every cuss word known to man while you search around the garage for another grease gun accessory that you hope will work but deep down know it won't!
Grit dog wrote:
Good description whisky river!
That's about right except you left out the part where u can't see the fitting so you give a couple squirts of grease to find out it didn't take. Try it again, this time the grease glob falls on your shirt. While wiping it off and moving the shop light for a better look because u kno that d@mn fitting is right there, you smear some grease on the light bulb. It starts smoking.
Finally get that stupid needle in the hole but now the light bulb popped and you're in the dark, crawl out change the bulb cause hands are too greesy to use your cell phone flashlight, then forget how many squirts of grease may have made it in there!
In reality, on th new trucks, I wouldn't worry about it until you think you've got 10000 miles or more in 4wd. The front driveshaft is just an architectural feature unless running in 4x4.
Good description whisky river!
That's about right except you left out the part where u can't see the fitting so you give a couple squirts of grease to find out it didn't take. Try it again, this time the grease glob falls on your shirt. While wiping it off and moving the shop light for a better look because u kno that d@mn fitting is right there, you smear some grease on the light bulb. It starts smoking.
Finally get that stupid needle in the hole but now the light bulb popped and you're in the dark, crawl out change the bulb cause hands are too greesy to use your cell phone flashlight, then forget how many squirts of grease may have made it in there!
In reality, on th new trucks, I wouldn't worry about it until you think you've got 10000 miles or more in 4wd. The front driveshaft is just an architectural feature unless running in 4x4.
LOL, thanks for the laughs, guys! One thing that has been forgotten is mumbling every cuss word known to man while you search around the garage for another grease gun accessory that you hope will work but deep down know it won't!
There is a video on the TDR where the guy uses a rigid extension off the grease gun with an angle bent into it then the pointed tip attached to it. Seems to work well. I said screw it a while back and just removed the driveline!
Cummins12V98 wrote:
So, curious, is there something dramatically different about the 2013 - 2017 3500 DRW's front driveshaft layout vs. a 2013 - 2017 3500 SRW? I suppose it's possible things could be different for 3500's with the Aisin tranny.blofgren wrote:
There is a video on the TDR where the guy uses a rigid extension off the grease gun with an angle bent into it then the pointed tip attached to it. Seems to work well. I said screw it a while back and just removed the driveline!Grit dog wrote:
Good description whisky river!
That's about right except you left out the part where u can't see the fitting so you give a couple squirts of grease to find out it didn't take. Try it again, this time the grease glob falls on your shirt. While wiping it off and moving the shop light for a better look because u kno that d@mn fitting is right there, you smear some grease on the light bulb. It starts smoking.
Finally get that stupid needle in the hole but now the light bulb popped and you're in the dark, crawl out change the bulb cause hands are too greesy to use your cell phone flashlight, then forget how many squirts of grease may have made it in there!
In reality, on th new trucks, I wouldn't worry about it until you think you've got 10000 miles or more in 4wd. The front driveshaft is just an architectural feature unless running in 4x4.
LOL, thanks for the laughs, guys! One thing that has been forgotten is mumbling every cuss word known to man while you search around the garage for another grease gun accessory that you hope will work but deep down know it won't! Good description whisky river!
That's about right except you left out the part where u can't see the fitting so you give a couple squirts of grease to find out it didn't take. Try it again, this time the grease glob falls on your shirt. While wiping it off and moving the shop light for a better look because u kno that d@mn fitting is right there, you smear some grease on the light bulb. It starts smoking.
Finally get that stupid needle in the hole but now the light bulb popped and you're in the dark, crawl out change the bulb cause hands are too greesy to use your cell phone flashlight, then forget how many squirts of grease may have made it in there!
In reality, on th new trucks, I wouldn't worry about it until you think you've got 10000 miles or more in 4wd. The front driveshaft is just an architectural feature unless running in 4x4.
I certainly don't have any of the hassles you guys are describing when I grease the front driveshaft on my 2016 3500 SRW (68RFE) which has the optional transfer case skid plate. I use a standard pistol grip grease gun with a Lincoln #5803 grease needle screwed into the end of a 12" flexible hose. I'm in and out in minute. FWIW, it's easy to verify a good grease needle connection because you can see the grease exit the back side of the shaft about 6 in. away.
CampingN.C. wrote:
It's still there and lots of new Ram owners don't even know about it.
It's still there and lots of new Ram owners don't even know about it.
It is on a sticker under the hood right at the front with a notation that it has to be greased at every oil change. ALSO at every oil change it is required to lube the outer tie rod ends.
Since I full time and have my Oil changed at different dealers (over two trucks) I have noticed that some dealers have NO IDEA they are supposed to do these lubrications at the oil change and I always bring it to their attention and make sure they have the right tool.
One dealer in Imperial Valley CA actually admitted he didnt have the tool and was not the least bit interested in doing this lube. I made them note this on the work order and my receipt.
Have you been under your truck? There are NO outer tie rod ends that have a grease fitting. The ONLY grease fitting on the current RAM trucks is the front driveline.
I think the manual does state lubing the non existent fittings.
Most often, the instructions were ignored. Either the plugs were never removed, so the joint never got lubed, or grease fittings were installed and left in place.
I have a vibration from the front of my truck when it is in four wheel drive. I suspect the CV joint has never been lubed, and the centering ball is loose. When I can get under the truck without laying in snow, I will check it. If it is the driveshaft, I will replace the whole thing with a new or (good)used part rather than messing with rebuilding it.
I will, of course, make sure it is properly lubed before installation!
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otrfun wrote:
I certainly don't have any of the hassles ....I use a standard pistol grip grease gun with a Lincoln #5803 grease needle screwed into the end of a 12" flexible hose.
I certainly don't have any of the hassles ....I use a standard pistol grip grease gun with a Lincoln #5803 grease needle screwed into the end of a 12" flexible hose.
That's good to know because this weekend I tried to get under my '14 Ram 2500 to grease my front driveshaft and failed miserably. I tried for 30 minutes to get the needle to seat and all it did was squish out grease on the U-joint.
I'll have to see if I can locate one the Lincoln #5803 locally and try it again.
KJ
LIKE2BUILD wrote:
I'll have to see if I can locate one the Lincoln #5803 locally and try it again.
KJ
Pic of the Lincoln #5803 Grease Needle. Works very well---very little seepage. Seen them for sale on eBay and Amazon for about $10.otrfun wrote:
I certainly don't have any of the hassles ....I use a standard pistol grip grease gun with a Lincoln #5803 grease needle screwed into the end of a 12" flexible hose.
That's good to know because this weekend I tried to get under my '14 Ram 2500 to grease my front driveshaft and failed miserably. I tried for 30 minutes to get the needle to seat and all it did was squish out grease on the U-joint. I certainly don't have any of the hassles ....I use a standard pistol grip grease gun with a Lincoln #5803 grease needle screwed into the end of a 12" flexible hose.
I'll have to see if I can locate one the Lincoln #5803 locally and try it again.
KJ
![[image]](https://s19.postimg.org/6sjpwst8z/Lincoln_5803_Grease_Needle_two_pics_sm.jpg)
Cummins12V98 wrote:
"ALSO at every oil change it is required to lube the outer tie rod ends."
Have you been under your truck? There are NO outer tie rod ends that have a grease fitting. The ONLY grease fitting on the current RAM trucks is the front driveline.
I think the manual does state lubing the non existent fittings.
"ALSO at every oil change it is required to lube the outer tie rod ends."
Have you been under your truck? There are NO outer tie rod ends that have a grease fitting. The ONLY grease fitting on the current RAM trucks is the front driveline.
I think the manual does state lubing the non existent fittings.
My manual said that about the outer tie ends as well.
The RAM tech said that only applies to the bigger trucks (over 3500?). They all use the same manual?
But that same tech also said there was no front drive shaft grease fitting soooo I take what he says with a grain of salt.
otrfun wrote:
Pic of the Lincoln #5803 Grease Needle. Works very well---very little seepage. Seen them for sale on eBay and Amazon for about $10.
Pic of the Lincoln #5803 Grease Needle. Works very well---very little seepage. Seen them for sale on eBay and Amazon for about $10.
I did a little searching and it was cheapest to get from Amazon. $10 with free Prime shipping. It should arrive tomorrow and I'll try again this weekend.
KJ
in my small hand grease gun
Grease ages and drys out. Mostly at the extremities of whatever joint needing
grease. It will BLOCK any new grease...unless you can FORCE it into that distant
area
Had a rubber nosed one, but lost it...used it on my K5's front driveshaft
and is where learned that it needs to have a lot of force to push fresh
grease out to the far reaches of that joint
Hypo-needle is used for bearings (bicycle, auto, etc), brake slide pin...behind
their O-Rings, etc. Also my Suburban's era had squeaky door hings
and tough to get oil in there...let alone grease. This does the job.
Ditto most other places around the house needing grease
Only use high temp disc brake grease loaded with molyb for EVERYTHING
Even my guns...
![[image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tools/CIMG0024.jpg~original)
BenK wrote:
I like that ones which cover the whole orifice and only use the hypo-needle
in my small hand grease gun
Grease ages and drys out. Mostly at the extremities of whatever joint needing
grease. It will BLOCK any new grease...unless you can FORCE it into that distant
area
Had a rubber nosed one, but lost it...used it on my K5's front driveshaft
and is where learned that it needs to have a lot of force to push fresh
grease out to the far reaches of that joint
Hypo-needle is used for bearings (bicycle, auto, etc), brake slide pin...behind
their O-Rings, etc. Also my Suburban's era had squeaky door hings
and tough to get oil in there...let alone grease. This does the job.
Ditto most other places around the house needing grease
Only use high temp disc brake grease loaded with molyb for EVERYTHING
Even my guns...
I like that ones which cover the whole orifice and only use the hypo-needle
in my small hand grease gun
Grease ages and drys out. Mostly at the extremities of whatever joint needing
grease. It will BLOCK any new grease...unless you can FORCE it into that distant
area
Had a rubber nosed one, but lost it...used it on my K5's front driveshaft
and is where learned that it needs to have a lot of force to push fresh
grease out to the far reaches of that joint
Hypo-needle is used for bearings (bicycle, auto, etc), brake slide pin...behind
their O-Rings, etc. Also my Suburban's era had squeaky door hings
and tough to get oil in there...let alone grease. This does the job.
Ditto most other places around the house needing grease
Only use high temp disc brake grease loaded with molyb for EVERYTHING
Even my guns...
Just to clarify, what you pictured is the wrong tool for the RAM front drive-line. Chris