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| Topic: Adding second battery, need bulkhead connector for cables? |
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Posted By: pirlbeck
on 12/18/16 06:20am
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I am adding a second battery to a Lance 845 and will be locating the battery between the LH side of the camper and the bedside in front of the wheel well. I am looking for some type of connecter that I can attach to the cable and mount to the camper to connect the 2 cables. I am familiar with Anderson connectors but there is no way to panel or bulkhead mount the larger sizes. I am thinking about using this style. Link for 200amp connector I could put a hole in the wing just above the LH wheel well and make the battery connection from the bottom by going in the bedside access door inside the camper. Anyone have a better idea or a better connector? I do not want to just drill some holes to bring the cables out and have them dangling there. Thanks! 2009 Lance 845 2021 Flagstaff 529RLKS 36'6" fifthwheel 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 19.5 Rickson wheels with Michelin XZE tires Air lift bags with 72000 wireless onboard air Hellwig Big Wig rear sway bar Rancho RS9000XL rear shocks Torqlift tie downs |
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Posted By: ~DJ~
on 12/18/16 07:22am
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Summit Racing![]() ![]() The red cable on the left goes down to wheel well for 2nd battery. You can also hook portable solar or stand alone battery charger. '17 Class C 22' Conquest on Ford E 450 with V 10. 4000 Onan, Quad 6 volt AGMs, 515 watts solar. '12 Northstar Liberty on a '16 Super Duty 6.2. Twin 6 volt AGMs with 300 watts solar. |
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Posted By: RoyB
on 12/18/16 07:25am
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All of my high current DC cabling uses the ring terminal connectors... This is perfect for using products like BLUE SEA Terminal lugs, HD Switches, FUSE Blocks, BUS Bars, etc... Most of my cabling is 2AWG and 4AWG around the battery terminals... I really observe equal cable lengths and all so that when being charged all of my connected batteries work together. Check out BLUE SEA DC products on google search... I do have a smaller battery bank in the bed of my truck which I use one of those 2-pin 4AWG cable connectors (ETRAILER.com) like your post shows. This allows me to supplement my trailer battery bank but I have a big problem trying to keep my batteries all charged together. I have to use separate DC charging setups to get both battery banks charged up in a quick three hour charge time. You best plan IMO would be to have your two batteries mounted together inside the same battery box location. I found out using the same DC charger for both battery backs my worse case batteries always drained down the better batteries to the older battery performance... Of course we all have our different defined install problems. Its all about what works best for you... Roy Ken * This post was edited 12/18/16 07:36am by RoyB * My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting Roy - Carolyn RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs) K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M 2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab 2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN 2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS
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Posted By: jimh406
on 12/18/16 08:10am
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How about a trolling motor connector like this one? There are a few different types and some are designed to handle up to 36 volt motors. http://www.basspro.com/Trolling-Motor-Co........ector-Kit-8Gauge/product/12051808141522/
'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops. NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member
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Posted By: fpoole
on 12/18/16 08:14am
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Not sure it this would help, but I've hooked up 2 sets of 6v batteries on the outside of camper and use these for quick connect/disconnect. I'm not sure if that's what your looking for.. (can't get the link thing to work) X-Haibei Battery Quick Connector Kit 175A 2AWG Plug Connect Disconnect Winch Trailer Gray https://smile.amazon.com/X-Haibei-Battery-Connector-Connect-Disconnect/dp/B00KXKW6WC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482073848&sr=8-4&keywords=battery+quick+connect Frank Poole Roam'n ROG (Full Timer since Oct '15) 2016 RAM 5500, C/c, 6.7 Diesel, AISIN HD 6-spd, 19.5 DRW, 72 Gal fuel, 4x4, 10ā Alum FB, 440 Amps, 4.10 Axle 2016 AF 990 640-Solar/10-6v Batts GlowStep Stow Nā Go, E-Bike RS1 Buggy frank Pooles website
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Posted By: cewillis
on 12/18/16 08:21am
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That's pretty much what I use to connect my truck charge system to my camper batteries. (maybe not as pretty, and a little lower capacity) connector Cal |
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Posted By: jimh406
on 12/18/16 08:26am
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fpoole wrote: X-Haibei Battery Quick Connector Kit 175A 2AWG Plug Connect Disconnect Winch Trailer Gray https://smile.amazon.com/X-Haibei-Batter........48&sr=8-4&keywords=battery+quick+connect Those are like Anderson Connectors. |
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Posted By: Ramblin' Ralph
on 12/18/16 09:23am
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I added a 2nd battery to my 845 and placed it in the truck bed, like you plan. Used an Anderson connector and ran the cable out the camper where the standard Lance cable is. Under the sink I connected the 2nd battery wires to a 4 position 1-2-Both-Off switch. Has worked great.
Ralph 2006 GMC 2500HD, XCab, SB, 6.0L w/2001 Lance 845 Bilstein Shocks, TorkLift Stable Loads, 100 Ah LiFePo4, 225 watt solar My RV Travels Webpage / Yearly Campsite Map / 740 Campsites / YouTube Videos /
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Posted By: bka0721
on 12/18/16 09:33am
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The Anderson connectors are the best way to go. These are readily available at NAPA style auto suppliers and Home Depot Stores. Keep it simple. Also, the connector the OP noted, will not serve you well because you are limiting the electrical transwer for the size of the connector. Just like have the correct guage of cable, your connectors need to be upsized as well. Why do the upgrade if you own work/supplies are going to negate much what you want to gain in power. Don't cut corners here in cable size, connector size and what has not been talk about yet, distance between the two batteries that are being hooked together. You would be better served to have the batteries closer together, if not end to end or side by side. b |
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Posted By: hedge
on 12/18/16 09:35am
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Timely post, I've also planning on doing this in the spring. I have two in the battery box but want to add a couple more in the bed. I was planning on using the anderson connector. My batteries are in the driver side wing so I may just run the cables in via the existing vent hole and connect them to the existing battery terminals. I only load/unload a few times a year so this may be the easiest solution. I am not sure on the wirng yet, hoping to buy the exact same batteries so that i can wire them up in parallel with the existing ones without using a battery switch. For the perfectionist the wiring won't be balanced between batteries I guess but not much choice since my battery box won't fit any more. With the heavy gauge wires I'm using (2/0) I think it will be fine. * This post was edited 12/18/16 09:45am by hedge * 2017 F350 Platinum DRW 2013 Adventurer 89RB |
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Posted By: HMS Beagle
on 12/18/16 09:50am
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The Pollak connector in the OP (or the philips equivalent) is what I used. It is normally called a "liftgate" connector at truck suppliers. A nice robust connector.
Bigfoot 10.4E, 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 2WD, Autoflex Ultra Air Ride rear suspension, Hellwig Bigwig sway bars front and rear |
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Posted By: Chris Bryant
on 12/18/16 10:09am
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A very heavy duty option is the Camlock style single pole connectors![]() These are 150 amp, but they also have 400 amp version, which i have used for inverter quick connects. -- Chris Bryant |
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Posted By: 2oldnslow
on 12/18/16 12:36pm
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I did that with Anderson connectors. The camper-side connector is screwed to the camper wall right above the access door so I can plug the cable from the battery in with one hand - easier than 2 loose leads. The problem I see with the single-pole connectors is that it is possible to connect them backwards with catastrophic results. The Anderson (and the OP's connector) can't be connected wrong once they are wired correctly. Very important. 2005 GMC 2500HD 1998 Lance 845 320AHr Battery Bank 400W Solar Array Morningstar ProStar 30 PWM Controller NovaKool R5810 5.8cf 12VDC Refridgerator (best mod ever!) |
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Posted By: ticki2
on 12/18/16 01:17pm
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HMS Beagle wrote: The Pollak connector in the OP (or the philips equivalent) is what I used. It is normally called a "liftgate" connector at truck suppliers. A nice robust connector. I also use these for the heavy charge line from the truck . It works great and are available at NAPA and online . However , they will only accommodate up to 4 ga wire . If the OP is going heavier wire he should probably use something else . '68 Avion C-11 '02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed |
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Posted By: Jack Hart
on 12/18/16 02:47pm
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http://products.batterytender.com/Accessories/Power-Connect-Battery-Connector-Set-Black.html
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Posted By: bb_94401
on 12/18/16 07:41pm
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Rather than a lift gate power connection, I mounted under the wing an Anderson Power Products POWERMOD HP A Series connector rated at 225A. The "B" series is a 400 A rated connector. The are latching and come in a bulkhead fitting shown below. ![]() The mating connector (also available as a 90 version) ![]() If you want to go with a through wall, panel mount, power post, VTE Warehouse makes a Copper Core Power Bushing that handles 550A. They have mounting plates listed under their Copper Core Jumper Bushing. They also have a variety of insulators.
'05 Ram 3500, 4x4, DRW, LB, 6spd man, CTD, PRXB exhaust brake, Roadmaster bar '01 Corsair 10'8" - 4,200 lbs., Xantrex XADC 80A, Link 20, 4-Lifeline GPL-4CT, PowerGate Isolater, 2 AWG wire, PI 30A EMS, 2 Honda EU2000i, parallel kit, ext. duration tank.
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Posted By: mcc272
on 12/18/16 08:47pm
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The Anderson PowerMod HP Series B posted by bb_94401 looks really interesting as it allows for the use of 4/0 cable if you get the right part. It also looks like the mating cycles is severely degraded if you mate it under load compared to the 500 cycles under no load. It might make sense to put some form of disconnect in the positive side to allow a no load connection. One thing that was not clear (but I may have missed it) is the question of polarity. It seems to indicate, but not clearly, that the plugs have polarity which would be nice so that they only go together one way, pos to pos and neg to neg. Avoiding sparks and explosions is always good when working with electricity. I am thinking about adding a battery in the truck bed as a way to expand the size of my battery bank as well as there is no way to add another battery in the battery compartment. Thanks to bb_99401. mcc272 2013 F350, Crew, 4x4, Diesel, DRW 2019 Airstream International Serenity 25 FBT |
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Posted By: bb_94401
on 12/19/16 01:07am
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mcc272 wrote: .... It might make sense to put some form of disconnect in the positive side to allow a no load connection. One thing that was not clear (but I may have missed it) is the question of polarity. It seems to indicate, but not clearly, that the plugs have polarity which would be nice so that they only go together one way, pos to pos and neg to neg. Avoiding sparks and explosions is always good when working with electricity. .... I have a Blue Sea Systems P/N 6006 single circuit ON / OFF switch wired to the positive terminal of the PowerMod HP bulkhead connector, just inside the TC. I also used pressure sensitive tape to attach a Mega Fuse to the battery. Blue Sea Systems also has a MRBF Terminal Fuse Block that attaches to the battery. Their fuses themselves are a little rarer than MEGA or ANL fuses. The polarity of the PowerMod HP connector is maintained by the triangular piece in the center of both parts of the connector. In the correct orientation they slide by each other and allow the contacts to mate. In the wrong orientation the ends interfere with the connection. |
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Posted By: pirlbeck
on 12/19/16 06:03am
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OK, thanks for all of the replies. Some of those connectors look interesting, especially the Anderson PowerMod, as it has a higher amp rating. Also I am going to look into those Blue Sea MRBF fuses as I an looking for something to use for fuse protection at the battery. Edit to add: What would be a good amp rating for a fuse at each battery. I don't have any plans to add an inverter so what would you guys recommend? Thanks again and Merry Christmas!!! |
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Posted By: hedge
on 12/19/16 09:25am
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usually fuse size would depend on the size of wire you are using to connect to the battery but since you are not using an inverter you could go by the size of the draws to your converter... likely 30-45a
* This post was edited 12/19/16 09:34am by hedge * |
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Posted By: Nemo667
on 12/19/16 07:30pm
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I like these with the Anderson connections: Environmental boot - source side Environmental boot - load side 2007 F-350 SRW 6.0L CC SB 4X4 2006 Outfitter Apex 8, 220W Solar and 3 AGM's 2013 Jeep Rubicon
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Posted By: Nemo667
on 12/20/16 04:35am
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pirlbeck wrote: I used the Bue Sea Circuit Wizard to determine proper wire size and fuse protection for my charge circuit. I also used a Blue Sea circuit breaker mounted in the passenger side foot-well of the truck and the MRBF fuse blocks linked above by bb_94401.
OK, thanks for all of the replies. Some of those connectors look interesting, especially the Anderson PowerMod, as it has a higher amp rating. Also I am going to look into those Blue Sea MRBF fuses as I an looking for something to use for fuse protection at the battery. Edit to add: What would be a good amp rating for a fuse at each battery. I don't have any plans to add an inverter so what would you guys recommend? Thanks again and Merry Christmas!!! |
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Posted By: Geewizard
on 12/20/16 07:56am
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Nemo667 wrote: I like these with the Anderson connections: Environmental boot - source side Environmental boot - load side I second this. I used Anderson connectors and these boots for my portable solar panel. And Anderson connectors without the boots for all 2-100AH battery connections as well as a Blue Sea Dual Circuit battery switch (1, 2, 1+2, Off) 2021 Winnebago Micro Minnie 1708FB 2014 Toyota Tundra Double Cab 300W solar, MPPT controller, LED lights Xantrex Freedom X Inverter 3000W 2 Fullriver 105AH AGM batteries Air Lift WirelessAIR and air bags Hankook Dynapro ATM 10-ply tires |
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Posted By: bb_94401
on 12/20/16 07:47pm
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![]() Anderson SB series connectors, with the environmental boots, are great connectors. Like the Powerpole series, any arcing of contacts, when hot connected, occurs on the tips when initially mated. As they are pushed in further to fully engage, they are now making the connection on clean metal. The only downside of this design is that the mating / unmating force is high for the two pole connectors. Series SB50 - 15 lbs SB120 - 20 lbs SB175 - 25 lbs SB350 - 30 lbs Having good access to both ends of the larger size connectors helps a lot. For the battery fuse, it is sized to protect the battery and wires if they are accidentally shorted. For sizing consider that a discharged flooded battery can accept current at ~20% of the amp hour capacity of the battery or battery bank. An AGM battery will accept even more current when charging. I'd size the battery fuse to at least 1.5 x the maximum output of your converter so you don't blow fuses when charging the battery. * This post was edited 12/21/16 12:11am by bb_94401 * |
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