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Topic: Ordered Host Mammoth |
Posted By: Bedlam
on 04/27/17 05:08pm
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I didn't have clearance issues with the standard CW cover (used that model twice) but agree that you have to unbolt it from the brackets to clean out debris.
Chevy Sonic 1.8-Honda Passport C70B-Host Mammoth 11.5-Interstate Car Carrier 20-Joyner SandViper 250-Kawasaki Concours ZG1000-Paros 8' flatbed-Pelican Decker DLX 8.75-Ram 5500 HD ![]() |
Posted By: Bedlam
on 05/01/17 01:47pm
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Between rain drops this past weekend, I installed the Camco Aero-Flo vent covers. As you can see, I chose translucent white for the bathroom and living room where I wanted additional light and an opaque black on the front vent in the bedroom. We sometimes boondock in well lit parking lots when on longer trips. Although this helps with security, having a flood lamp over your bed does make it harder to sleep. Our Arctic Fox had a black out cover that snapped on the inside of the vent - This gave you a choice of ventilation or darkness but not both. Going with the dark vent cover solves this problem for us. In a previous picture I posted, you can see the top of the vent flips up after two captive stainless screws are released - This is not as easy as the MaxxAir with cotter pins, but I should only need access about once or twice a year. This vent has louvers on three sides for circulation but does not use screen material like some of the others. We'll see if debris or insects get caught inside the cover.![]() |
Posted By: billyray50
on 05/01/17 02:37pm
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Bedlam wrote: ![]() Between rain drops this past weekend, I installed the Camco Aero-Flo vent covers. As you can see, I chose translucent white for the bathroom and living room where I wanted additional light and an opaque black on the front vent in the bedroom. We sometimes boondock in well lit parking lots when on longer trips. Although this helps with security, having a flood lamp over your bed does make it harder to sleep. Our Arctic Fox had a black out cover that snapped on the inside of the vent - This gave you a choice of ventilation or darkness but not both. Going with the dark vent cover solves this problem for us. In a previous picture I posted, you can see the top of the vent flips up after two captive stainless screws are released - This is not as easy as the MaxxAir with cotter pins, but I should only need access about once or twice a year. This vent has louvers on three sides for circulation but does not use screen material like some of the others. We'll see if debris or insects get caught inside the cover. ![]() Nice job Bedlam. Looks good. My fantastic vent I installed in bedroom has a bug screen that of course was extra. |
Posted By: Bedlam
on 05/01/17 02:47pm
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All the vents already have screens, but I'm used to the covers also having screens. No-see-ums will always get through these coarse screens but running the fan in the exhaust direction with the vent open and the rest of the screens closed has worked for us.
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Posted By: billyray50
on 05/01/17 03:05pm
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Bedlam wrote: ![]() All the vents already have screens, but I'm used to the covers also having screens. No-see-ums will always get through these coarse screens but running the fan in the exhaust direction with the vent open and the rest of the screens closed has worked for us. Yes I meant the cover has a fine bug screen I installed for extra. Maxx air came with one for bathroom vent. |
Posted By: zb39
on 05/02/17 08:04am
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Bedlam, does the 40 inch TV stick out past either wall? Did you leave the thermostat in the stock location? I'm getting ready to start installing in a couple weeks. Did I spy a 3rd solar panel on your roof? 2017 Host mammoth, sold 49 states, 41 National Parks, 7 Provinces 2019 2 door Rubicon 6 spd. 2019 Berkshire XLT 45B 2022 Host Cascade 2021 Ram 5500 Air ride |
Posted By: Bedlam
on 05/02/17 08:54am
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The 40" TV is 1" wider than the wall on either side (wall is 34" and TV is 36" wide). You can use a surface mount TV mount in the bedroom but the living room mount needs to be offset from the wall or you need an extended arm to pull the TV away from the wall. This accomplishes two things: 1. Allows access to the thermostat 2. Allows the Bathroom panel door to clear the TV The offset is not much - If you position the TV to be flush with the outside edge of the fireplace shelf, that is enough. If you chose a 32" TV, you could use Host's mounts or another flush mount instead of the extending style mount. Apache Camping Center provided the TV mounts I used instead of Host. I installed the MORRyde TV1-025H 25 lb rated model using eight 1" lag bolts into the wall and they appear to be firmly anchored without additional wall board required. Samsung TV's use M8 hardware on a 200mm VESA mount - Although my MORRyde mounts came with the larger VESA plates, the hardware supplied was only M4 and M6 to mount the TV. I purchased M8x25 bolts and washers locally for the install and had to drill out the plates for M8. http://www.morryde.com/products/69-extending-swivel-tv-wall-mount-small Host uses ZAMP Solar for their inverter, panel and controller. I have three 160w panels and a 30A controller installed on my Mammoth. There is enough room for four panels on my roof because I do not have the large cabover skylight, but typically there would only be room for three. If you want more than three panels, you would need a larger controller and even heavier wires. In the basement is a 1000W PSW inverter with a remote controlled switch located in the control panel above the TV in the living room. There are two single gang wall outlets powered by the inverter: One is in the pantry which powers the bedroom TV and The second is above the fireplace which powers the living room TV. https://www.zampsolar.com/rv-solar-products/ |
Posted By: zb39
on 05/04/17 09:43am
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I will prob go with 32 inch in front and back. I would like to mount them solid but I'm not sure if the angle would be OK from the 6 ft couch. Maybe I will try and set it up there and see. The bed room will be a solid mount. Did you get the factory DVD or install your own? I have been looking at diff ones, including the one Host uses. It has some nice features. There is another 110 out let above the FP inside the cabinet. The FP is plugged in there.
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Posted By: Bedlam
on 05/04/17 10:45am
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If you get a quality TV with wide viewing angle, you should not have to swivel it to the large couch to get a good picture. I went with the Samsung 5200 series LCD smart TV's for the picture quality and feature set. The same remote will control either TV and the menus are identical in operation. The stock mount adjusts slightly for up/down angle but no left/right. I have the integrated radio/DVD offered by Host. Although I could have have found a more high end model with additional features, I did not want to have to do the required wire runs and external antenna install. Host does offer a number of prewire options that are not listed - Mine was basically outfitted and ready for the TV's of my choosing. The Outside TV has its own DVD player built in to the unit, so it is not connected to the RV radio. The exterior housing has runs for a DC jack, AC outlet and antenna feed. The bedroom is fed by the RV radio through composite video and RCA audio while the living room is fed by HDMI from the same radio. I would look at the double DIN sized automotive models verses anything offered for the RV industry if I was installing my own head unit. If you want to reduce wire clutter, there are 32" televisions with DVD players built in - I installed a 22" version like this in my Arctic Fox verses going with their offerings. I have a single gang two-plug outlet mounted to the underside of the control panel cabinet above the TV area. I'm not sure if this is an option only included with their inverter. Just above my RV radio is a 12VDC power port and two USB charge ports - If you have these, you may be able to tap power for a 12VDC television. |
Posted By: zb39
on 05/04/17 10:48am
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I do have the plug above the FP all ready. I wasn't sure if you knew about the plug above the FP inside the cabinet. I have not yet decided on a DVD unit yet. I will also be installing a small sound bar for the LR.
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