2021 F150 2.7 Ecoboost - Summer Home 2017 Bighorn 3575el. Can Am Spyder RT-L Chrome, Kawasaki KRX1000. Retired and enjoying it! RIP DW 07-05-2021
With a load on in 2wd I would think the dually would have better traction. Nothing to back it up.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"
"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600
2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable
2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD
donnie144 wrote:
I'm looking at getting a medium duty truck along the sport truck lines.
A sportchassis? I'm looking at getting a medium duty truck along the sport truck lines.
It's difficult to say but off the top of my head no, I don't think duals have better traction. The SC weighs more than a pickup, and more sq inches on the ground, but as previous poster said, less weight/area.
So.. I guess it's hard to say. I've never had my SC in such a situation.
Chevy Sonic 1.8-Honda Passport C70B-Host Mammoth 11.5-Interstate Car Carrier 20-Joyner SandViper 250-Kawasaki Concours ZG1000-Paros 8' flatbed-Pelican Decker DLX 8.75-Ram 5500 HD
chevman
chevman
2019 rockwood 34 ft fifth wheel sold
2005 3500 2wd duramax CC dually
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KSH 55 inbed fuel tank
scanguage II
TD-EOC
Induction Overhaul Kit
TST tire monitors
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This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.
Sold 04 Dynasty to our son after 14 great years.
Upgraded with a 08 HR Navigator 45’...
Ivylog wrote:
My M2 Freightliner
You have that in addition to a MH?
My M2 Freightliner
do you have a electronic Locking rear differential?, as an option on F 250,350 after 2010.
2017 Northern Lite 10-2 EX CD SE
99 Ram 4x4 Dually Cummins
A whole lot more fuel, a whole lot more boost.
4.10 gears, Gear Vendors overdrive, exhaust brake
Built auto, triple disc, billet shafts.
Kelderman Air Ride, Helwig sway bar.
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/HEtkJ1Ul.jpg)
* This post was edited 10/24/16 11:16am by Ivylog *
Is this a weight issue that you want a bigger truck?
Consider Eaton Truetrac differentials and lower gears if needed.
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up
2013 Ram 3500 Megacab DRW Laramie 4x4, 6.7L Cummins, G56, 3.73, Maximum Steel, black lthr, B&W RVK3670 hitch, Retrax, Linex, and a bunch of options incl. cargo camera
2008 Corsair Excella Platinum 34.5 CKTS fifth wheel with winter package & disc brakes
MY Navistar for example, has the ability to move 30K up a 30% grade. My old dually dmax it was 20K up a 24% grade. UNLESS I was in 4 lo. This is with a 175/335 non turbo 7.3 vs a 320/660 turbo 6.6L. Gears can make a difference in little trucks too. My old 96 6.5td with a manual 5 sp, 4.10 gears and a NV4500 manual, could do 30% grade at 20K lbs. Better than the dmax! BUT, the dmax due to 300+hp, could out pull both trucks on a typical 3-4% freeway grade speed wise.
Another thing MDT's offer if you do a lot of slower steeper grade towing and moving, is 2 speed rear ends. You can have a 3.73 road drive gears, and 4.10 or 4.33 gears for low speed/steep grade maneuvering.
Since we are talking low speed maneuvering...yes, mdt's are generally speaking, setup better! or at least have the ability to do so.
As far as DW vs SW traction.....SW's do better than duals. This included in semi's super singles vs two dual tires with the same width contact patch. so a single 20" wide tire vs two 10" tires of the same/similar tread designs.
Also as noted, if you get a mdt, make sure it has a locker of some sort. I have a detroit no spin/locker. An air on/off style would be nicer, but I have hydraulic brakes. An air locker is not in my cards. The locker helps in low traction situations. As they have in my LDT trucks trucks too. I've got places in RWD with a locker that took 4wd with an open rear diff. With this in mind too....sometimes one does need a front driving axle to get thru a low traction situation....lockers alone do not help..this is a pretty small % of time.
My 02 on the subject.
Marty
92 Navistar dump truck, 7.3L 7 sp, 4.33 gears with a Detroit no spin
2014 Chevy 1500 Dual cab 4x4
92 Red-e-haul 12K equipment trailer
Ivylog wrote:
Yes, I have a M2 plus a Airstream.
Congratulations!
Yes, I have a M2 plus a Airstream.
Bedlam wrote:
The OP wants a 26K lb GVWR MDT and you are offering him a 14K lb LDT? That would be like offering you a Dakota instead of your DRW 3500...
The OP wants a 26K lb GVWR MDT and you are offering him a 14K lb LDT? That would be like offering you a Dakota instead of your DRW 3500...
Some "THINK" they need a MDT so what's wrong with giving people options?
On another thread a guy was leaning Ford and I suggested looking at the RAM's also. He bought a RAM and publicly thanked me.
Me Again wrote:
Duals, will have less traction under those conditions, as you have less weight per sq in of tire on the ground. Chris
Duals, will have less traction under those conditions, as you have less weight per sq in of tire on the ground. Chris
Nice thought
But---- not alwasys.
2 tires-- have Less ground contact - per sq inch-- than 4 tires.
All things being equal--- 4 tires will have better traction- forward and backward.
Now, throw snow into the picture--- changes it --- 2 Snow tires will always be better.
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But it also boils down to the type of surface, wide tires, more contact patch, will do better on sand than thin ties, but wide tires will do worse in the mud or snow.
Howard and Peggy
"Don't Panic"
bfast54 wrote:
Nice thought
But---- not alwasys.
2 tires-- have Less ground contact - per sq inch-- than 4 tires.
All things being equal--- 4 tires will have better traction- forward and backward.
Now, throw snow into the picture--- changes it --- 2 Snow tires will always be better.
Me Again wrote:
Duals, will have less traction under those conditions, as you have less weight per sq in of tire on the ground. Chris
Duals, will have less traction under those conditions, as you have less weight per sq in of tire on the ground. Chris
Nice thought
But---- not alwasys.
2 tires-- have Less ground contact - per sq inch-- than 4 tires.
All things being equal--- 4 tires will have better traction- forward and backward.
Now, throw snow into the picture--- changes it --- 2 Snow tires will always be better.
Chris is correct, less weight per sq. in. of contact means less traction. Simple physics. Designers of race and high performance cars understand the physics, that is why they use active wings to increase downforce (i.e. adding weight) to prevent loss of traction rather than deploying extra tires.
Larry Day
Texas Baptist Men-Retiree Builders since '01
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Dayle1 wrote:
Chris is correct, less weight per sq. in. of contact means less traction. Simple physics. Designers of race and high performance cars understand the physics, that is why they use active wings to increase downforce (i.e. adding weight) to prevent loss of traction rather than deploying extra tires.
If that were true, race cars would be using the thinnest tires they could get away with rather than the widest. More tire means more friction surface which means more grip.
Chris is correct, less weight per sq. in. of contact means less traction. Simple physics. Designers of race and high performance cars understand the physics, that is why they use active wings to increase downforce (i.e. adding weight) to prevent loss of traction rather than deploying extra tires.
Slippery to off road...depends on what you are driving on and desire either penetration
or flotation
If still on solid pavement...do you wish to float over the water/slush/snow? or
penetrate down back to pavement?
If iced over, do NOT drive or have chains and/or studs ***AND*** go SLOW
If off road in the dirt...how deep is that dirt/gravel/etc? If not
that deep, then penetration through the mud/gravel/dirt/etc down to hard pack
If too deep, then flotation over all that stuff. Either by airing down to create
a larger 'apparent' tire dia and/or have more contact patch with wider tires...or dually
Also, a lot depends on how heavy your vehicle is. If it is very heavy, no way
will it float over that kind of stuff
Airing down for a larger apparent dia begets an apparent tire dia of over 8 FEET
and on some tires...creates a 'cup' at the bottom of the flat-spot
It all depends...
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
I have found 4wd and single rears to be the best. Dual rears with 4wd are not bad. Tandems with inter axel locks next (they seem to tear up easy) then single axel duals are the weakest. Lockers really help. By the way, with practice, and working in two man teams, you would be surprised just how quickly you can chain up for bad roads. Say 20 minutes to put on your coveralls, chain up, then strip off your coveralls and have a cup of coffee. I think non 4wd tucks should always have chains, and I often have chains for all four wheels when needed.
Planning is best, and a good pair of well broken in boots, is a good emergency reserve.
A DRW loaded to capacity will have MORE traction than an SRW loaded to capacity. The reason? Twice as much weight over twice as many tires.
2WD will get "stuck on wet grass" when you run smooth road tires, don't have a locking differential, and/or have an heavy left foot. More often than not, people create their own problems by romping on the accelerator in sketchy traction situations. I can break a 4x4 loose on wet grass. All I have to do is slam it in gear and stomp on the gas, and I'll be as stuck as any 2WD that does the same thing.
If you're going to be where the traction is sketchy, run traction tires. Don't expect to be able to move in slick conditions without the weight of the trailer over the rear wheels. Make sure you've got a locking differential. For those rare times when you do get truly stuck, have a good tow strap behind the seat.
Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.
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TT - Zinger 270BH
WD Hitch- HaulMaster 1,000 lb Round Bar
Dual Friction bar sway control
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their chain kit...
5 gallon plastic bucket with lid. Either the once it came with or
after market cover with a cushy top for my tender bottom...am way
older these days...
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/frown.gif "frown")
Bucket is a working stool and keeps the salt/slush/etc inside and
NOT on the vehicle rug
2 cans of WD40 to oil down everything going back into the bucket
Below all in their own plastic bags
Chain repair kit with extra links, chain plyers, bailing wire, BIG tie wraps
Chain tensioners. No longer use rubber bands, but truckers version with
coiled spring (about 1" in dia)
Several sets of gloves. Extra thick nitrile (blue that EMT's use)
Roll of hallway vinyl runner in case have to kneel or lay down to get
the back side. Rolled up along the inside dia so not in the way, as
not
used often
$0.99 tools from the hardware store sale table. Plyers (two, one a needle
nose, other lineman with a big wire cutter), screw drivers, etc....toss
them when they get too rusty (not often)
At home, take them all out and hose them down. Hang them to dry and
repeat another coating of WD40
thomas201 wrote:
BenK has got it right. After 30 years in the oilfield mud, sand, ice and snow. I agree with him, it depends. Also the type of ruts if any, and may heaven help you if they used rounded pea gravel on the road. And, is there a dozer or tow truck handy, when you make a mistake.
I have found 4wd and single rears to be the best. Dual rears with 4wd are not bad. Tandems with inter axel locks next (they seem to tear up easy) then single axel duals are the weakest. Lockers really help. By the way, with practice, and working in two man teams, you would be surprised just how quickly you can chain up for bad roads. Say 20 minutes to put on your coveralls, chain up, then strip off your coveralls and have a cup of coffee. I think non 4wd tucks should always have chains, and I often have chains for all four wheels when needed.
Planning is best, and a good pair of well broken in boots, is a good emergency reserve.
BenK has got it right. After 30 years in the oilfield mud, sand, ice and snow. I agree with him, it depends. Also the type of ruts if any, and may heaven help you if they used rounded pea gravel on the road. And, is there a dozer or tow truck handy, when you make a mistake.
I have found 4wd and single rears to be the best. Dual rears with 4wd are not bad. Tandems with inter axel locks next (they seem to tear up easy) then single axel duals are the weakest. Lockers really help. By the way, with practice, and working in two man teams, you would be surprised just how quickly you can chain up for bad roads. Say 20 minutes to put on your coveralls, chain up, then strip off your coveralls and have a cup of coffee. I think non 4wd tucks should always have chains, and I often have chains for all four wheels when needed.
Planning is best, and a good pair of well broken in boots, is a good emergency reserve.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
In all seriousness Ben hit it on the money.
It all depends on the surface. Sometimes you want to dig, sometimes you want to float and all times you want to grip.
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