So I picked up cheap harbor freight special. Hooked it yesterday and no voltage on volt meter between pos and neg clamps. (Second time I needed it) I would assume no voltage between the clamps means its not working? No fuse inside (that I can find) but did find melted plastic that a wire went thru.
The adage of you get what you pay for might come into play here.
What's a good little charger, Home and RV.
Thanks
http://www.batteryminders.com/12-volt-maintenance-charger-desfulator-1500
If you expect reasonably fast charging of an RV size battery you really need 10 to 40 amps. 5 amps minimum.
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up
Pretty obvious the poster wants a battery charger. All the PWM solid state chargers I see are inoperable plastic scrap. I believe BFL13 recommends a Vector brand. Can a Vector bring a battery 100% charged in 4-hours?
They and other chargers normally shut down when they get the battery to about 97% ("Automatic" charger) How long that takes depends of course on the size of the battery in AH and the charging amps size of the charger.
To get from 97% to 100% you need a different sort of charger that stays on past that 97% like a converter does (except note that they mostly drop to a Float voltage before reaching 100%, and get to the 100 sometime later while on Float.
If you want to remain at Vabs till you get to 100% and then drop to Float, you need an adjustable voltage power supply type of charger.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
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Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
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Cydog15 wrote:
Do you want a converter charger or a battery charger. I've burned up a couple Shumackers and don't recommend them but there are some good ones out there like the Intellipower units. Bestconverter has them and they do well but I'd also look at the Boondocker chargers unless you are strictly looking for a battery charger not for continuous duty. Looking again at your post you might be in the Walmart range if that is all you are looking for. I love Harbor Freight but won't buy ANYTHING that plugs into an outlet for power.
Do you want a converter charger or a battery charger. I've burned up a couple Shumackers and don't recommend them but there are some good ones out there like the Intellipower units. Bestconverter has them and they do well but I'd also look at the Boondocker chargers unless you are strictly looking for a battery charger not for continuous duty. Looking again at your post you might be in the Walmart range if that is all you are looking for. I love Harbor Freight but won't buy ANYTHING that plugs into an outlet for power.
Op here...I want a battery charger that I can use around house for cars and rv's. Not pay a fortune and have it last for years. Tossed my old Sears Robuck couple years ago because I fried to many batteries. It was so old it didn't turn off after it full charged a battery. Think I got it in the 70's. What I did have of Harbor freight was 10/2/50 amp 12 volt. But some parts of it will come in handy though. Reason battery was down in first place was because I was installing a gauge in tow vehicle. The door was open most of day. But now I have enough wire to complete install. Certainly the 120 a/c Harbor freight wire can hold up to 5 DC amps? but maybe not
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
04' F350 PSD TB SC FX4 XLT, TH-04' 32' Sandpiper Sport Fifthwheel WB Dual Axle
07' Rhino 686 SS106-ITP-AFE-BRP-T4-CDI-KIBBLEBWHITE-CVT-TSTICH-Ridgid LED LightBar-HID Conversion Kit-LIVEWIRE
04' Honda 250 Sportstrac quad
05' Honda 400 Ranchers quad
Sometimes I have the problem that a battery is too low to get this unit started in smart mode. These batteries are toast already but I try to revive them anyway... A few times I have brought them back. I also carry a VEC 10AMP Battery maintainer to get the batteries to demand a few amps so that this 40AMP charger will start doing its business...
Has been my portable main Battery Charger since 2008.
Like said these are getting real hard to find now but are still available if you keep looking. I should have bought two of them back when they was so available...
![[image]](http://i5.walmartimages.com/dfw/dce07b8c-b220/k2-_09421912-d582-4ba4-b0c0-c3d8d7f2d816.v1.jpg)
Roy Ken
RoyB
Dartmouth, MA
2021 RAM 2500 4X4 6.4L
2011 Forest River Grey Wolf Cherokee 19RR
520 w solar-200ah Renogy Li-Epever MPPT
path1 wrote:
I would assume no voltage between the clamps means its not working?
I would assume no voltage between the clamps means its not working?
First, that is NOT necessarily a good assumption.
Some detect the polarity and do not apply voltage until that test passes.
Check the voltage on a battery. Connect the charger. Check the voltage again. If it goes up, the charger likely is working.
Second, don't obsess. Most any 2 amp fully automatic charger available at an auto parts store, or even the Schumacher's at WalMart, are perfectly good for "average" home use.
I just did a google and this Ebay listing came up. It is listed as new (not used).
The auction closes on Saturday (tomorrow) and it is currently at $86.
Not a bad price, but I'm curious as to how much the ultimate sale price will be bid up to.
ebay link
* This post was edited 10/07/16 07:56am by dewey02 *
Older chargers open circuit are 17.0+ volts - battery boilers. Setting the Mega to 14.8 delays overcharging to the point where it's a no-brainer. Of course some people do not like the idea of having to add cables and a timer to a power supply. If I reach 90 years of age in 20 years maybe I won't want to do that. I did exactly that yesterday to a 36-amp Megawatt for my son'in-law. I would not pay $5 for today's off the shelf gahbage. The partially full concept is like a 20 gallon gas tank that holds 18 gallons and the next station is 19.6 gallons distant. You gotta be ------- me.
BFL13 wrote:
the Vector is out of business and the ones made by Black and Decker are hard to find anymore too.
the Vector is out of business and the ones made by Black and Decker are hard to find anymore too.
What I found with the xantrex (sold license to Vector) was the 15A (14.4v) setting stopped at 2.5A and then ya needed to start over @ the 2A setting that stopped @ under 0.5A for a single G24.
Ye ole 6v/12v 6A/2A got a charged G24 to 15.3v overnight with tiny bubbles.
The newer B&D, CAT, Stanley (I have the B&D 15A from HD) just has the one 15A setting and a recondition button! 14.4v, temp comp only for high temps and low temps I think over 95F and below 35F.
http://www.baccusglobal.com/
i love them so much!
Timer? - my bladder
Home depot web site, no hits for V1093 DBD 40 amp smart mode. And Amazon say unavailable.
https://www.amazon.com/black-decker-vec1093dbd-battery-charger/dp/b000ejqj1g
Maybe you guys with one should think about putting this gem in your will
"The Smart Battery Charger is fully automatic and electronic, with a Digital Smart microprocessor control and an LED indicator for selecting your charging rate"
Yeah and the check is in the mail. Want FOUR OF THESE? I'll gather them up and take them north next trip. Economy Parcel Post.
The dumbing down of America is working to perfection!
They installed a cheap fan that often (but not always) failed and then the thing overheated and went kaput.
Several of us have had these units for years and they are still working well. Some folks (as have posted here) replaced the fan with a more reliable fan.
For what I need this charger to do, it does it well.
If Mexicowanderer wants to travel north and use his jury-rigged charging system to recharge all of our batteries whenever they need a charge, he is more than welcome. While waiting for him to get north to Minnesota, I will continue to use my B&D as I have for the past 6 years. No battery failures, no charger failures. I'm a happy camper, but apparently I'm also a "dumb American" according to someone on this forum.
![[image]](http://i67.tinypic.com/20s5zq.jpg)
Four charging my battery bank at near 130a total from the Honda 3000 six years ago.
One of the 35s has just been assigned as my AGM battery charger since it does that just right for that battery's specs.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton
If the Borg is a jury-rig setup then I'm a Tibetan Sherpa. Harbor Freight offered a good charger but without a timer. Hooking its power cord to a timer is probably the easiest thing a person could do AND IT WOULD NOT BLOW UP AFTER TWO MONTHS. Do ya forget about a turkey roasting in the oven at 375F?
Couple a 36-amp Megawatt to a 4-hour wind up timer. An Intermatic. Ninety bucks including the plastic receptacle box and pair of Romex clamps. 10 gage Ching Chong jumper cables are another what (?) ten bucks? Cut, strip, and fasten to the Megawatt terminal strip.
Is this so hard? Christ I have one foot in the grave and another on a banana peel and I can set this up diddling within 2 hours time. Use Black silicone sealer to safety seal the Megawatt terminal block from prying fingers.
Think 14.8 might be a little too high of finishing voltage? Tweak it back to 14.5. The pot is wide open access on the front next to the terminal block. Don't want 14.5? OK set it to 14.0 and you have exactly the same thing as a an alternator charging 24/7 if you wish. Want 13.3 for storage? Want exactly 14.4 for an AGM battery? Want to equalize? It's all there and the 4-hour timer just about goof-proofs charging. How many thousands percent more reliable is this setup? I'll put it this way, it'll be dancing on the grave of your next five PHART CHARGERS
Oh Dang Dang!
I shudda bought a SMART OVEN! Why did I settle for an inferior old-fashioned oven. Or an unsmart toilet or razor, or...
![[image]](https://s3.amazonaws.com/lowres.cartoonstock.com/technology-artificial_intelligence-gadget-smart_house-smart_technology-smartphone-mlyn2944_low.jpg)
* This post was edited 10/07/16 01:27pm by MEXICOWANDERER *
![[image]](http://www.teasherpa.net/sherpa-porter.png)
https://www.amazon.com/SOLAR-PL2310-Pro-Logix-Battery-Charger/dp/B009RXYU4I?th=1
No personal experience with it.
I do the adjustable voltage power supply thing, modified with more ventilation heatsinking and a better trim pot, but in 2007 I bought a schumacher sc2500a which was only on the market for a year or so before being pulled.
It would regularly decide to go up into the 16.4v range at full output and make it sound as if sulfuric acid was actually boiling inside the battery. The AGM setting largely prevents this occurrence.
I did at one point, modify it with a better fan, but that fan is now on my Meanwell powersupply. Its 12 awg power leads would heat up greatly passing 25 amps, and the copper within the wiring was black when I investigated further.
It now has a short length of 10AWG to circuit board with some 45 amp anderson powerpoles. The voltage reading on the display, always read way lower than actual voltage at battery and the 10AWG modification increased this disparity.
The display no longer works. All the buttons and lights are now lit and the display always reads 18.8v. Kind of a blessing.
It Does still work. I have a separate wattmeter on the outputs, I just have to remember to push one buton twice to set it to AGM( on a flooded battery) and another buttton once twice or 3 times for 2 12 or 25 amps.
Its fan is now a 60MM fan that I pulled from the Smoked cheapowatt (may it rest in pieces).
The schumacher now recharges the screwy 31 which powers lots of cast off 12v items in my meager workshop shed.
It does start automatically after a while when it gets power and is already hooked to a battery, but on the regular setting, and at 2 amps, which tries to as high as 16.4v if left alone.
Sometimes I will parallel the Schumacher and my Meanwell power supply for 65 amps, but I have to dial meanwell upto 15.3v to get it to stay at 40 amps until the battery approaches the 14.7v range.
I was unable to leave the Schumacher alone on a battery back when it was my only 120vAC charging source. It required babysitting lest it decide that 16.4v was required.
NOw the power supply just seeks and holds any voltage I desire. So at some point I need to lower it from 14.7 to 13.6v.
I know in this day and age where everything needs to be automatic lest the human have an emotional breakdown and not be able to spit out "just fine, just fine, just fine" lika a insane parrot, this is undesirable.
The adjustable voltage power supply route is certainly not for everyone as it is a manual charger. But I feel it is way superior than some automatic device being uncontrollable because it thinks it is smart.
Any electronic device which creates heat will benefit from a better more reliable fan. The computer muffin fans available today range from sleeve bearing jokes to rather insane levels of engineering and production.
If fan failure means device failure, then perhaps one should implement a better fan as preventative medicine.
Look up Noctua's offerings.
What is this "Baby Sitting" stuff? I do not understand. Twist a dial and walk off is a deal-breaker?
UNderstandable for a non tinkerer. Anathema for a tinkerer.
OP firmly put his desires into the plug and play zone.
My checking account isn't Plug N Play
Neither are my medications. Would you believe I actually have to take a moment and CHECK with an instrument so that I am not under or over dosing.
The better half wasn't Plug N Play and that's for damned sure.
There are those among us that don't have simple hand tools or the know how!
I have an older version of this one one, clicky
It available in store last i looked and have had it for 4 or 5 years now with good results.
Sent from my laptop with 100% renewable electrons.
jayw900 wrote:
Go to wally World(walmart) and pick up a schumacher charger.
Go to wally World(walmart) and pick up a schumacher charger.
I've been using them for about 20 years and never had a problem.
But if you have a burr in your shorts about WalMart, then find an AutoZone, PepBoys, NAPA or other auto parts store in your area and get whatever they have on the shelf. Die Hard from Sears or K-mart are good too. More expensive does not necessarily mean better for average use.
I've been using battery chargers for about 50 years now and never had a problem with one.......until recently when I got a cheap one from Harbor Freight.
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
If folks are genuinely intetested I could assemble a how-to-do-it article about setting up a Megawatt for Dummies. But not if three days of hard work does not become a "sticky". Don't care if it has my name posted. Something to be mounted in a compartment. Yes, it means running power to the compartment even an extension cord. Complete with German Hunting Handbook grade instructions...and genuine pictures.
If folks are genuinely intetested I could assemble a how-to-do-it article about setting up a Megawatt for Dummies. But not if three days of hard work does not become a "sticky". Don't care if it has my name posted. Something to be mounted in a compartment. Yes, it means running power to the compartment even an extension cord. Complete with German Hunting Handbook grade instructions...and genuine pictures.
I for one would love a "how-to-do-it article about setting up a Megawatt for Dummies." But have no idea how to go about requesting getting it made into a sticky.
AStinker- wrote:
I for one would love a "how-to-do-it article about setting up a Megawatt for Dummies." But have no idea how to go about requesting getting it made into a sticky.
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
If folks are genuinely intetested I could assemble a how-to-do-it article about setting up a Megawatt for Dummies. But not if three days of hard work does not become a "sticky". Don't care if it has my name posted. Something to be mounted in a compartment. Yes, it means running power to the compartment even an extension cord. Complete with German Hunting Handbook grade instructions...and genuine pictures.
If folks are genuinely intetested I could assemble a how-to-do-it article about setting up a Megawatt for Dummies. But not if three days of hard work does not become a "sticky". Don't care if it has my name posted. Something to be mounted in a compartment. Yes, it means running power to the compartment even an extension cord. Complete with German Hunting Handbook grade instructions...and genuine pictures.
I for one would love a "how-to-do-it article about setting up a Megawatt for Dummies." But have no idea how to go about requesting getting it made into a sticky.
The tiny voltage trim pot on these switching power supplies is rated for a rotational life of only 50 cycles.
http://www.bourns.com/products/potentiom........-potentiometers-single-turn/product/3309
Perhaps not an issue for someone who sets it to 14.x and spins the spring wound timer and has no need for a different voltage.
Removing this trim pot and replacing it with wires leading to a higher rotational cycle life more precise potentiometer is hardly rocket science, but does require some soldering skills AND or Disassembly of the unit, whose transistors use the casing as a heatsink, and require reapplication of thermal grease on reassembly.
At maximum output( think depleted battery) they get hot and should employ additional heat removal methods beyond the little sleeve bearing 60mm fan provided with the unit.
landyacht318 wrote:
The tiny voltage trim pot on these switching power supplies is rated for a rotational life of only 50 cycles.
http://www.bourns.com/products/potentiom........-potentiometers-single-turn/product/3309
Perhaps not an issue for someone who sets it to 14.x and spins the spring wound timer and has no need for a different voltage.
Removing this trim pot and replacing it with wires leading to a higher rotational cycle life more precise potentiometer is hardly rocket science, but does require some soldering skills AND or Disassembly of the unit, whose transistors use the casing as a heatsink, and require reapplication of thermal grease on reassembly.
At maximum output( think depleted battery) they get hot and should employ additional heat removal methods beyond the little sleeve bearing 60mm fan provided with the unit.
AStinker- wrote:
I for one would love a "how-to-do-it article about setting up a Megawatt for Dummies." But have no idea how to go about requesting getting it made into a sticky.
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
If folks are genuinely intetested I could assemble a how-to-do-it article about setting up a Megawatt for Dummies. But not if three days of hard work does not become a "sticky". Don't care if it has my name posted. Something to be mounted in a compartment. Yes, it means running power to the compartment even an extension cord. Complete with German Hunting Handbook grade instructions...and genuine pictures.
If folks are genuinely intetested I could assemble a how-to-do-it article about setting up a Megawatt for Dummies. But not if three days of hard work does not become a "sticky". Don't care if it has my name posted. Something to be mounted in a compartment. Yes, it means running power to the compartment even an extension cord. Complete with German Hunting Handbook grade instructions...and genuine pictures.
I for one would love a "how-to-do-it article about setting up a Megawatt for Dummies." But have no idea how to go about requesting getting it made into a sticky.
The tiny voltage trim pot on these switching power supplies is rated for a rotational life of only 50 cycles.
http://www.bourns.com/products/potentiom........-potentiometers-single-turn/product/3309
Perhaps not an issue for someone who sets it to 14.x and spins the spring wound timer and has no need for a different voltage.
Removing this trim pot and replacing it with wires leading to a higher rotational cycle life more precise potentiometer is hardly rocket science, but does require some soldering skills AND or Disassembly of the unit, whose transistors use the casing as a heatsink, and require reapplication of thermal grease on reassembly.
At maximum output( think depleted battery) they get hot and should employ additional heat removal methods beyond the little sleeve bearing 60mm fan provided with the unit.
Yer speakin' gibberish to someone like me, which is why I prefer a plug and play model, even if it isn't perfect.
Yes a smart charger will replace most of the depleted charge. Unlike a gas tank, batteries are snotty chemical laboratories. They'll sulfate then lattice link the crystals. When that happens you can push the little "Desulfate" button 100,000,000 times and the battery will just laugh at you. There are two remedies: Don't boondock a lot, and put your battery store on speed-dial.
path1 wrote:
...
What I did have of Harbor freight was 10/2/50 amp 12 volt.
...
...
What I did have of Harbor freight was 10/2/50 amp 12 volt.
...
I have one of those. Here is how it works for me.
I raises Volts to 14.7 and then shuts off. That is basically a 'bulk' charge. Next, it shuts off and waits for 12.95V where it restarts and goes back to 14.7. This second stage repeats.
It is OK as a 'bulk' charger and then you disconnect it. I don't let it stay connected as that next ON/OFF stage is no way to maintain a battery. Plus, the 2A setting is harmful if you have a higher concurrent draw as it will NEVER go to float and could lock on at 14+ Volts.
HTH;
John
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
"Even if it isn't perfect", would be like having a 5 lb fire extinguisher filled to 8 oz and calling it "Not Perfect". Or a 3-axle motorhome with a 15 gallon gas tank.
Yes a smart charger will replace most of the depleted charge. Unlike a gas tank, batteries are snotty chemical laboratories. They'll sulfate then lattice link the crystals. When that happens you can push the little "Desulfate" button 100,000,000 times and the battery will just laugh at you. There are two remedies: Don't boondock a lot, and put your battery store on speed-dial.
While I agree the typical portable smart charger is not the best to charge a battery and then put the battery in storage. I think the idea is to charge the battery due to some mishap and put the battery back in service to be charged by the normal operating system such as the alternator."Even if it isn't perfect", would be like having a 5 lb fire extinguisher filled to 8 oz and calling it "Not Perfect". Or a 3-axle motorhome with a 15 gallon gas tank.
Yes a smart charger will replace most of the depleted charge. Unlike a gas tank, batteries are snotty chemical laboratories. They'll sulfate then lattice link the crystals. When that happens you can push the little "Desulfate" button 100,000,000 times and the battery will just laugh at you. There are two remedies: Don't boondock a lot, and put your battery store on speed-dial.
The portable charger is not typically designed to be the primary charging system. If it has battery clamps... that is temporary use only.
More like carrying a few extra jerry cans to get you through a tight spot but not to fill the tank each week.
Wottya mean my battery is no stinky bueno? I used it three or four time and it's out of warranty?
I guess what really upsets me is my built-in "green factor".
Build it so it lasts...
And if possible build it so it can be fixed or rebuilt...
Human Binks are depleting natural resources by the millions of tons daily. It all goes into the garbage can and ungodly amounts of energy as being used to try and make them recyclable. But then again there is 240-grit toilet paper, shred in the hands, non absorbent paper towels and canned fruit that costs MORE without sugar than it does loaded with diabetes promoter.
I hope aliens come soon, and they turn out to be hostile...
full_mosey wrote:
Plus, the 2A setting is harmful if you have a higher concurrent draw as it will NEVER go to float and could lock on at 14+ Volts.
Plus, the 2A setting is harmful if you have a higher concurrent draw as it will NEVER go to float and could lock on at 14+ Volts.
I think the thing is **** but I believe that setting it on 2 will lower that peak voltage to something closer to 13.6...... but it still turns off and on instead of varying the voltage as needed.
On the 2 setting, I suspect that it will be only slightly better than a dumb trickle charger.
I keep mine around for the "start" capability......and incase I need a door stop or boat anchor.
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Wottya mean my battery is no stinky bueno? I used it three or four time and it's out of warranty?
How long is the warranty?Wottya mean my battery is no stinky bueno? I used it three or four time and it's out of warranty?
This sounds like no charger was used. Operator abuse. Not a smart charger issue but rather a no charger issue.
No maintenance, no worky.
When I posted I never thought this would go on for 3 pages. Guess I'm hard on batteries and chargers. My old Sears charger, a Christmas gift around mid 70's (we believe) worked great. Problem was it did exactly what it was supposed to do. It charged batteries, and it kept charging them until you disconnected it. If I forgot about it, I blew up more than one battery over the years I had it. Options were 6 or 12 volt, and a on/off switch. Next charger of unknown brand had a very short life. I ran over it backing out of garage. Next one was the harbor freight, it was only on it's 2nd or 3rd job and noticed it was taking forever to charge. Put volt meter between the clamps and nothing. Pulled cover and some melted plastic, so called it quits. Posted here for recommendations for new charger. Even called the local Black & Decker "factory support", they were no help.
Driving by Wal-Mart last night and picked up Schumacher model SC11. It is not going to last either IMO. Indicators to me why it won't last. "Fully automatic" "start/stop push button interface" and "microprocessor controlled" But then again maybe it will last. Right on the box it reads..."Since 1947 Schumacher Electric Corp has been leading change and driving performance to exceed it customers expectations" So maybe I won't have any problems
Claims to be: 80A engine start 20A boost 6-2A charge for $70.00
Thanks
This does not matter with lightly used batteries that spend lots of time off-season connected to a charger (not a maintainer! A Charger!). The if's the and's and the butts make for a sorry total of maybe's.
Do it. Charge a battery to 1.265. Then connect it to a maintainer. How many months will it spend glaciating it's way to 1.266 then 1.267, then...? Chemistry does not wait.
Yes, a Zap desulfate button can be pushed a hundred times to hurry the process. Talk about stupid - compare nursemaiding a desulfate button to simply charging until cell electrolyte bubbles slightly.
Once the process is known, a person does not need to monitor cell bubbling. They'll know from gaining practical experience how much charging is needed.
I know my Lifeline will need 3 to 3.25 hours to fully recharge from a voltage level of around 12.50 So with 14.4 volts voltage control limit I set the spring wound timer to a little over three hours. Presto. Perfectly charged battery.
The confused in the midst will scream "I doan wanna twist no stupid dials!" This is a battery charger, not a converter. With a 75% charged battery I can set the timer for TWELVE HOURS and not hurt the battery. Why? This is a charger not a converter.
Amateurs make the mistake of assumption. They read they rationalize and they freak if applying absorbsion charge voltage to a battery is maintained for 4 hours instead of one hour THIS IS A BATTERY CHARGER NOT A CONVERTER! The battery could care less. Hyper meticulous PRECISE voltage and time calculations are an utter waste of time and reveal the advocate is a real greenhorn when it comes to battery charging.
Other spouted nonsense wails a lightly bubbling battery means it is "Boiling!" Again ignorance is being shouted for all to see and read. Careful assumptions, blended with rationalization, and sweetened with wacko shared opinions try to push reality out the window. It is sad.
Mr Kettner is correct. Gross assumptions mean gross battery sales increases.
Next time you become aware of a malfunctioning battery, do an audit: Time spent in diagnostics. Time and money spend to go have the battery tested. Ooooo I forgot to add removal and replacement time. Then time and money spent for shopping for a replacement or maybe arguing with the parts counter. Bad batteries can wipe out a boondocking vacation.
But that doesn't matter, right?
Dyson chargers are Plug N Play! Trumps common sense.
![[image]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/G/01/Home_Garden/A-Plus_Pages/Dyson/DC25-MultiFloor-Hero._V386852923_.jpg)
Look Ma! No Hands! (or brains). Check the annual kWh consumption of a SMART way to vacuum and the cost of a replacement battery. Smart! Smart! Smart! Think Green! Err..BROWN!
![[image]](http://s.hswstatic.com/gif/robotic-vacuum-18.jpg)
The wheeled Diehard charger with timer I linked to earlier is $99 and probably fulfilled through Sears. I'd suggest you return the Shumacher and get the wheeled Diehard.
FWIW, I have a wheeled Exide charger that has been charging batteries for 20 years. I'm blaming the bigger transformer for it's longevity.
westend wrote:
Path1,
The wheeled Diehard charger with timer I linked to earlier is $99 and probably fulfilled through Sears. I'd suggest you return the Shumacher and get the wheeled Diehard.
FWIW, I have a wheeled Exide charger that has been charging batteries for 20 years. I'm blaming the bigger transformer for it's longevity.
Path1,
The wheeled Diehard charger with timer I linked to earlier is $99 and probably fulfilled through Sears. I'd suggest you return the Shumacher and get the wheeled Diehard.
FWIW, I have a wheeled Exide charger that has been charging batteries for 20 years. I'm blaming the bigger transformer for it's longevity.
I'll be bring this with me when we snowbird.
(from link) measures 13.00 x 16.00 x 32.00 Inches. Even with handle of, its pretty big unit. Only so much room.
path1 wrote:
Driving by Wal-Mart last night and picked up Schumacher model SC11. It is not going to last either IMO. Indicators to me why it won't last. "Fully automatic" "start/stop push button interface" and "microprocessor controlled" But then again maybe it will last. Right on the box it reads..."Since 1947 Schumacher Electric Corp has been leading change and driving performance to exceed it customers expectations" So maybe I won't have any problems
Claims to be: 80A engine start 20A boost 6-2A charge for $70.00
Thanks
This should work fine for the intended use.
Driving by Wal-Mart last night and picked up Schumacher model SC11. It is not going to last either IMO. Indicators to me why it won't last. "Fully automatic" "start/stop push button interface" and "microprocessor controlled" But then again maybe it will last. Right on the box it reads..."Since 1947 Schumacher Electric Corp has been leading change and driving performance to exceed it customers expectations" So maybe I won't have any problems
Claims to be: 80A engine start 20A boost 6-2A charge for $70.00
Thanks
The "microprocessor" retails for $1.21 in (10) lots.
BUT! This subject actually helped me see something related to charging but in a different vein. I was going nuts trying to figure out how to recharge the Lifeline while on the road. Sheeze! The answer was right in front of me! 2-1/2 foot long paired 6 gauge welding cable, a twin bumper (firewall) mount socket, a plug for the cables, two excellent clamps, and a genuine 80-amp breaker that mounts under the hood with the rest of the circuit. Tap directly into the alternator output stud. When not in use the harness unplugs. Drive 200 miles and the Lifeline is recharged. I must be getting old
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/frown.gif "frown")
I find it works pretty well, though the voltage display reads several tenths high, and it does seem to quit before fully charging. Thanks for the tip about the fan! I'll keep my ears open for sounds of failure.
I have this little gem waiting in my Christmas stocking to replace the one I made in 1975 for playing around with electronics.
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/OzAZcMql.jpg)
eBay link
I chose the ten amp version so I can manually top up batteries. No timer but I could easily plug it into an AC timer if doing something risky. It seems to work perfectly except the current meter reads two tenths low and therefore indicates zero for any current below 250 mA. It is smaller than it looks in the picture.
2004 E350 Adventurer (Canadian) 20 footer - Alberta, Canada
No TV + 100W solar = no generator needed
Holds voltage perfectly and amps rise as it climbs a grade.
Would work perfect to do a fixed low amp but voltage limited equalization.
Yea no timer.
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/loDIGjIl.jpg)
yThe fan is working well. I took the center sticker off and noticed the grease in the "bearing" is pretty skimpy so I added a squirt of white lithium. I have a few new computer fans but this one is a little bigger than CPU fans from a few years ago. It is 60 mm square and 20 mm thick. The thickness is critical bit it could be larger in the other dimensions. Where would I find a better quality fan?
It went back together quite easily. Only lost one screw. It is charging a battery right now, with more than 15.5 volts, up to 12 amps. I probably should have disconnected it from the vehicle.
I got another fan and mounted it outside the same vent with its wire pair running inside the vent spliced to original's wires. Totally quiet that way.
There was then an "issue" where I had the fan sucking instead of blowing or whichever, can't remember. Had to re-mount it the other way around. No problem after that!
Love my now quiet VEC1093DBD
I cannot find the CFM rating of your Xinruilian RDH6020S
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g36/c15/........12_Volt_Fans-60mm_x_10mm_Fans-Page1.html
I once mounted a 60MM fan on the exterior of a schumacher that came with a very loud 40mm Fan. Still there, still works
Mr Sanctamonious is now going to have breakfast then fix that REPAIRABLE battery charger. Pfffttt!
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2-PIN-WIRE-Brushless-DC-Fan-11-Blade-12V-60mm-x-60-mmx20mm-NEW-6020S-/251086577808?hash=item3a75ed2090:g:qJwAAMXQdGJRypiY
This one is only 10 mm thick but says "ball bearing". Have to pay shipping from Poland.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DELTA-EFB0612MA-FAN-12VDC-0-15A-60MM-BALL-BEARING-/220759464893?hash=item33664a1bbd:g:IIMAAOSw14xWIXOa
It is supposed to go out if the light switch is turned to half way but this one never goes out unless I disconnect the battery.
Quantum Leap (by you), your post from...
10-31-16
To next - dated.....
7-28-21 !!
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
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Harvey51 wrote:
2004 Ford courtesy light in cab stays on all night, need a boost every morning.
It is supposed to go out if the light switch is turned to half way but this one never goes out unless I disconnect the battery.
2004 Ford courtesy light in cab stays on all night, need a boost every morning.
It is supposed to go out if the light switch is turned to half way but this one never goes out unless I disconnect the battery.
Common problem, often caused by the door switch which is located inside the door latch that starts to stick on.
Sometimes freed by squirting some WD-40 into the latch on the door. Sometimes the entire latch must be replaced.
Ironically however the vehicles body control module should be timing out the light after 15 minutes.. May have issue with the body control module, on some Fords this module is integrated into the top of the fuse box located underside of the drivers side dash..
The problem of the Body control is often traced back to your windshield leaking on the driverside, the windshield just happens to be directly over top of the body control module!
If body control malfunctions, don't be surprised to have other things like radio, windshield wipers and fan motor to act up..