I'm looking at a Bigfoot M15C9.5FS which is a lighter 9'6" camper. I will be hauling this on a 2016 Ram 3500 CTD SRW. I am planning on maintaining towing for a horse trailer that may be needed down the road. I have read/watched videos/spoken to people who seem to agree that the Torklift SuperHitch/SuperTruss setup is awesome but expensive/complicated/heavy. It also requires replacing the factory class 5 receiver which will presumably have little to no resale value.
The trailer would be 2 horse weighing approx. 5500# with a 15% tongue weight (825#). The camper is listed at 2250# so I figure loaded (500#) I'd be around 2750#. That puts the total at 3575 which is well under my max payload of 4400#. I don't yet know if stabiloads or air bags would be necessary, but that can be dealt with later.
I measured from the back end of the camper's bumper to the truck's hitch and it looks like I need a 12-13" extension to get it back to the same spot. I've spoken to multiple people with a similar setup (similar camper + trailer) and they have suggested just using a class 5 extension/stinger. But, just because it's been done doesn't make it safe. Reese, Curtis, etc make them, but I've yet to find a shorter 18" model. The shortest I've seen is 24" once cut down. At 24", the specs for the extension claim it will work fine. I'm just concerned about a long arm and backing up or hitting bumps when not on pavement.
The only alternative I've seen is extending the hitch on the trailer. That looks like it would work, but it requires the same mod for any trailer that might be used (can't move/use someone else's trailer) and probably would make the resale tougher.
I'm open to suggestion but primarily want to make the right choices for setting up the TC now. Links to products would be very helpful.
Nothing complicated about a Superhitch, or any of them. It's bolts and steel.
You want to keep it simple? The advice is pretty much going to be what you already know. Put the standard Superhitch in and don't worry about it. Second set of advice is going to center around getting a small extension (buy a 24" and cut it to what you want..) and using what you have, because the set up you are talking about is fairly light weight.
'16 F550 CC, 4x4 with Link Ultraride air suspension, '18 AF 1150. Just so we can play with our snowmobiles, dirt bikes and fishing boat. And new 20' tag along...kayaks, bikes, mc's and extra water and food!!
2021Ram 3500 DRW
2020 Arctic Fox 29-5K
ORV 24RLS Titanium (Sold)
2015 Adventurer 86FB (Sold)
I've seen 18" bar extensions (Curt) and thought that may be the way to go, to get the pin out from being too far under a 9.5 or 10' camper. I know the extension stuff is popular but I figure I'm going to be heavy enough already, and hanging 7k lbs off the end of a big lever just isn't where I want to go.
This is all especially true since my truck is an antique and pretty limited on GVW - and adding 100lbs of steel truss stuff isn't going to help. I don't see a way to do a signature (yet), but it's an 86 F350 CC DRW long bed turbodiesel, 9200 GVWR.
Anyway, just chiming in to say "you're not the only one" and the above is how I'm looking at things.
Cheers,
- Jeff
bkenobi wrote:
I have read/watched videos/spoken to people who seem to agree that the Torklift SuperHitch/SuperTruss setup is awesome but expensive/complicated/heavy.
I have read/watched videos/spoken to people who seem to agree that the Torklift SuperHitch/SuperTruss setup is awesome but expensive/complicated/heavy.
Expensive, yes.
Heavy, sort of. (the Super Truss)
Complicated? not really. Install it just like you install the ball mount/hitch, then attach the chains to the SuperHitch.
Takes me maybe 5 minutes to install my SuperTruss.
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator
01 International 4800 4x4 CrewCab DT466E Allison MD3060
69Bronco 86Samurai 85ATC250R 89CR500
98Ranger 96Tacoma
20' BigTex flatbed
8' truck camper, 14' Aristocrat TT
73 Kona 17' ski boat & Mercury 1150TB
92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6 285 BFG AT 4.56 & LockRite rear
2011 F350 6.7L Diesel 4x4 CrewCab longbed Dually, 2019 Lance 1062, Torqlift Talons, Fast Guns, upper and lower Stable Loads, Super Hitch, 48" Super Truss, Airlift loadlifter 5000 extreme airbags
Don't spend money on the hitch until after you buy the camper (unless you know you are buying new and won't have the option to get the hitch as part of the deal).
1999 F350 Dually with 7.3 Diesel
2000 Bigfoot 10.6 Camper
I stretched the tongue of my trailer so it can clear the camper and hitch up right behind the truck.
Nothing can be better than that.
If you only need 18" and aren't towing really heavy, you'll be OK with an extension.
Most of the guys here have a strict by-the-book mentality and use extensions because that's what the dealers sell. They're made in a factory and the numbers say they will work. And they WILL work.
But not as well as keeping the hitch point as close to the rear axle as possible.
2017 Northern Lite 10-2 EX CD SE
99 Ram 4x4 Dually Cummins
A whole lot more fuel, a whole lot more boost.
4.10 gears, Gear Vendors overdrive, exhaust brake
Built auto, triple disc, billet shafts.
Kelderman Air Ride, Helwig sway bar.
Feel free to search my profile for previous posts. I did my research myself and bought from the place I could get the best prices. I have recently posted about my use of the SuperHitch and SuperTruss setup.
As far as extending the tongue on a trailer. I believe it's unsafe. Hear me out...if you're a professional fabricator, then by all means I trust you. Most aren't. But anyone can bolt a few things together and wham you've got a well designed, quality product. You wouldn't make your Shortbed pickup into a Longbed pickup in your driveway. I hope my point is coming across.
A trailer is part of a frame that was designed, engineered, and tested to handle weight in a certain way. Altering a frame isn't a good idea.
People use hitch extensions everyday without problems. I have no doubt about the safely of a superhitch setup and the way it's mounted or assembled. People on here haul heavier things than me with longer extensions too, and have been doing it for longer than I've been in the game.
If you don't have a horse trailer now and plan on buying the right one to be able to tow it without an extension, I see no harm in that.
There are a lot of way opinions can go. Take things for what they are worth and if you've seen a thought you hadn't come up with yet, then we are doing our jobs. Sounds like you've got a pretty good understanding of how to achieve what you'd like to do.
Forgot to add, everyone seems to like the torklift stuff for any extension option. It's probably the safest option...especially if you're going to be hauling heavy, living things. Make sure that those short extensions you've mentioned are rated for hauling 5500lbs, preferably with some safety margin. I wouldn't imagine those things are solid 2" bar stock, and I'm sure when made they were thinking a dirt bike trailer or a small aluminum boat, or a bicycle rack. If you're going to be using a weight distributing system, that changes the game as well.
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/4eFibLOl.jpg)
* This post was edited 08/16/16 01:08am by getpower1 *
2003 Aljo 259LT
2018 Ram 3500, SRW, 4x4, CTD, HO, Aisin
Safety is #1 and I wouldn't have started the thread if I just wanted to bolt on the cheapest option. Thanks for all the input!
The only factory hitch extensions I've ever found in 5 years of searching, aside from the Supertruss and the Reese extension (only rated for 600/6000), are cheap light-duty extensions good for 350/3500lbs.
I made my own extension from a 24" Curt "weldable receiver tube." However, the trailer I tow with it is 4000lbs at most with maybe a 500lb tongue weight. I haven't had the courage to test it with anything heavier.
Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.
Fishhunter wrote:
No need to remove factory hitch, get the D1104 Torklift hitch
No need to remove factory hitch, get the D1104 Torklift hitch
This is correct. The super hitch works WITH your factory hitch. NOT complicated at all.
Buy quality once and never worry about it.
2017 Host mammoth, sold
49 states, 41 National Parks, 7 Provinces
2019 2 door Rubicon 6 spd.
2019 Berkshire XLT 45B
2022 Host Cascade
2021 Ram 5500 Air ride
bkenobi wrote:
... snipped ... I'm trying to make sure I understand the proper way to set things up (for towing) so I make informed decisions now rather than having the wrong TC and hardware on my truck down the road. I'm open to suggestion but primarily want to make the right choices for setting up the TC now. Links to products would be very helpful.
... snipped ... I'm trying to make sure I understand the proper way to set things up (for towing) so I make informed decisions now rather than having the wrong TC and hardware on my truck down the road. I'm open to suggestion but primarily want to make the right choices for setting up the TC now. Links to products would be very helpful.
bkenobi, check out this thread for some lots of useful info and opinions on your issue.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27917179/srt/pa/pging/1/page/5.cfm
2007 Adventurer 90fws Truck Camper
2001 FORD F250 SuperCab; 8' box; 4x4, 7.3l diesel, rear Sumo Springs
Qualifying that with I've never towed horses which can be a pretty big live load.
Not suggesting others do it, but for reference sake I towed about the same size trailer on a 12" extension, 4klb plus camper in the bed, 3950lb rated tires on factory dodge alloys all the way to Alaska. Think that was a decent torture test of the hitch setup given the days of frost heaved road travel.
I've done the same with my boat in tow a couple times on shorter trips. About the same weight.
The RIGHT and conservative way is get the super truss hitch etc to remove the pucker factor of a simple hitch extension and a larger trailer though.
With a camper that doesnt drop the rear overhang down below the level of the truck bed, it's easier to get away with shorter hitch extensions that let the trailer tongue ride somewhere under the back of the camper. With my setup and square nose trailers, the almost 2.5' camper overhang doesn't allow me to jack knife the trailer hard without getting into the back of the camper. For this, I carry another extension I can slip in if necessary to make a tight turn if needed.
Again, this is not ideal, just giving an idea of what's actually doable vs what's ideal.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
burningman wrote:
I think all hitch extensions are a bad idea. It doesn't matter how strong and sturdy they are, you can't change physics. Moving the hitch point further back behind the axle is bad. Period.
I stretched the tongue of my trailer so it can clear the camper and hitch up right behind the truck.
Nothing can be better than that.
If you only need 18" and aren't towing really heavy, you'll be OK with an extension.
Most of the guys here have a strict by-the-book mentality and use extensions because that's what the dealers sell. They're made in a factory and the numbers say they will work. And they WILL work.
But not as well as keeping the hitch point as close to the rear axle as possible.
I think all hitch extensions are a bad idea. It doesn't matter how strong and sturdy they are, you can't change physics. Moving the hitch point further back behind the axle is bad. Period.
I stretched the tongue of my trailer so it can clear the camper and hitch up right behind the truck.
Nothing can be better than that.
If you only need 18" and aren't towing really heavy, you'll be OK with an extension.
Most of the guys here have a strict by-the-book mentality and use extensions because that's what the dealers sell. They're made in a factory and the numbers say they will work. And they WILL work.
But not as well as keeping the hitch point as close to the rear axle as possible.
Running the tongue under the camper may sound like a good idea, but the day you you cross a dip in a driveway or at campground may change your mind. What direction do you think that trailer tongue will go when the front truck tires or your trailer tires are higher than the rear truck tires?
Chevy Sonic 1.8-Honda Passport C70B-Host Mammoth 11.5-Interstate Car Carrier 20-Joyner SandViper 250-Kawasaki Concours ZG1000-Paros 8' flatbed-Pelican Decker DLX 8.75-Ram 5500 HD
bkenobi wrote:
I assume a product that is sold by multiple reputable dealers has been tested and rated correctly. I have no doubt about the quality and capability of the Torklift product line. My ideal solution would be an extension fabricated from 2.5" solid stock but I've yet to find that. The closest I've seen is the Titan extensions. Those are a bit pricey (compared to the 2" extensions) and too long for my intended setup. However, if I went with one, they don't reduce capacity at all.
Safety is #1 and I wouldn't have started the thread if I just wanted to bolt on the cheapest option. Thanks for all the input!
I assume a product that is sold by multiple reputable dealers has been tested and rated correctly. I have no doubt about the quality and capability of the Torklift product line. My ideal solution would be an extension fabricated from 2.5" solid stock but I've yet to find that. The closest I've seen is the Titan extensions. Those are a bit pricey (compared to the 2" extensions) and too long for my intended setup. However, if I went with one, they don't reduce capacity at all.
Safety is #1 and I wouldn't have started the thread if I just wanted to bolt on the cheapest option. Thanks for all the input!
Any extension will reduce receiver capacity because of the additional leverage exerted. A 20K lb Torklift receiver was designed for extensions, yet using a 5' extension will halve its rating. Using receivers from other companies with like standalone ratings would yield quick failure if you tried to apply the same because they are not designed for that twisting leverage.
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/IK2azO7l.jpg)
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/RzKe2H5l.jpg)
Before I moved the same 28" SuperTruss to this setup to tow it an additional 15K miles:
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/vaNkn9Wl.jpg)
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/zk90zLal.jpg)
Our trailer was factory built with an extended toque and we bought an 18in ball mount. We have plenty of and clearance to avoid camper to trailer clashes and we are within all of our weight ratings.
It works very well for us
2015 F350 Lariat CC LB 4x4 DRW 6.7, 6sp auto, 3.73
2000 F350 lariat SC LB 4x4 DRW 7.3, 6sp manual 3.73
1987 F250 Lariat SC/LB 4x4 SRW 460 4sp stick 4.10
1995 Jeep wrangler
99 Star Craft 953
Bedlam wrote:
This trailer is typically loaded 6000-8000 lbs. It was towed safely for over 25k miles using this setup:
Before I moved the same 28" SuperTruss to this setup to tow it an additional 15K miles:
This trailer is typically loaded 6000-8000 lbs. It was towed safely for over 25k miles using this setup:
Before I moved the same 28" SuperTruss to this setup to tow it an additional 15K miles:
How'd you mount those Mu"b" flaps on the SuperTruss? Great idea!
2013 AF 990
2003 F350 6.0L 4X4 DRW, Oil bypass filter, Coolant Filter, Blue Spring fuel pressure mod, DELO ELC, DashBoss Bluetooth engine monitor, EGT/FP gauge, SuperSprings, torklift hitch/tiedowns, 48" SuperTruss, fastguns, Kenwood CMOS Backup Camera.
bkenobi wrote:
What brand/model of 18" hitch did you go with? If you have a link that would be even better!
What brand/model of 18" hitch did you go with? If you have a link that would be even better!
We ordered ours thru Thomas and Sons RV.
It's a Superior Products ball mount.
18" Pin to ball hole
900/9000lbs
Superior Products & Services
200 North Lemmon Avenue
Bolivar, MO 65613 -
Phone: (417) 326-6444
http://www.thomassonsrv.com/
Bedlam wrote:
Running the tongue under the camper may sound like a good idea, but the day you you cross a dip in a driveway or at campground may change your mind. What direction do you think that trailer tongue will go when the front truck tires or your trailer tires are higher than the rear truck tires?
Running the tongue under the camper may sound like a good idea, but the day you you cross a dip in a driveway or at campground may change your mind. What direction do you think that trailer tongue will go when the front truck tires or your trailer tires are higher than the rear truck tires?
I'm not guessing. I've towed for years, thousands of miles this way.
The day you go through a dip on a curve in the rain and your front end slides out, you may change your mind!
Caveats: this is best on a 4WD truck with some extra clearance, and you need to know what you're driving.
In my experience (which is substantial, I'm 51 and have worked with trucks from tow trucks to semis all my life plus owned numerous truck/camper/trailer combos) a long hitch extension bottoms out on the ground about as soon as an extended trailer tongue contacts the bottom of a camper (provided you've set it up with decent clearance).
The fact you can buy premade hitch extensions does not mean it's a better system. It's because they are plug & play universal, while stretching a trailer tongue is custom work.
There is not rocket science engineering in a trailer frame. It's steel C-channel. Properly done, the stretched tongue can be the strongest part of it. Mine certainly is.
Semi-truck frames commonly get modified and stretched. If you're not handy with a welder, a decent local welding shop can do whatever you need.
With a heavy truck & camper towing a relatively light trailer, an extension is certainly OK. But I challenge anyone to hook up a good size/weight trailer on an extension and scale out their weight balance, especially on the front end, and compare it to hitching right behind the bumper and see which is better.
When I drove tow trucks, the wheel-lift had hydraulic in and out, you could move the towed vehicle closer or further out while driving. A foot or two made a big difference.
It's physics, and it is what it is. An extension is much easier, granted. I'm just telling you guys what's really best, and I'm a guy who actually knows first-hand.
I have a picture but couldn't figure out how to post it.
None of these ways are the best way or in some cases even safe for a particular combination.
Even if a particular way is acceptable or at least safe for the general traveling public around you, there are limitations. Period. Overhang, break over angles, clearance, turn radius, material and fabrication properties, etc etc all weigh in to what can be done.
My setup I used mentioned on a previous post here was by no means acceptable for some conditions. If I had to take that setup into downtown Seattle it would have bottomed out the hitch jack on hills, crashed the trailer into the camper on tight turns and prolly left me sitting blocking traffic, lol.
Doing big things with smaller vehicles requires some knowledge of physics, geometry and mechanical aptitude to do it safely, whether it's within some generic published guideline or not. It ain't idiot proof like pulling up to a parking spot and letting your parallel park assist guide your Ford Focus into the spot for your no parallel parking skills having self! (In general, not insinuating anything in particular)
That's why these are good questions as there are few if any one size fits all solutions.
All this said, the super hitch/truss is a well thought out and safe durable system that is more universal with less concerns than many other systems. And for those that are not able to put the right thought, knowledge and or experience into making a pickup do something it didn't come ready equipped from the factory to do, IMO it is the best general solution (albeit with limitations).
bkenobi wrote:
The factory hitch is attached to the frame with 2 plates per side with 3 bolts each. I was thinking that it would be pretty easy to fab a plate with matching holes that extended down and provided a mounting point for diagonal chains that could attach to a hitch extension. I wouldn't expect that to boost any rating, but it would add stability if hitting a bump or the breaks when jackknifed. The factory hitch has a 1800# tongue weight.
I have a picture but couldn't figure out how to post it.
The factory hitch is attached to the frame with 2 plates per side with 3 bolts each. I was thinking that it would be pretty easy to fab a plate with matching holes that extended down and provided a mounting point for diagonal chains that could attach to a hitch extension. I wouldn't expect that to boost any rating, but it would add stability if hitting a bump or the breaks when jackknifed. The factory hitch has a 1800# tongue weight.
I have a picture but couldn't figure out how to post it.
This should help for posting the picture.
bkenobi wrote:
I assume a product that is sold by multiple reputable dealers has been tested and rated correctly. I have no doubt about the quality and capability of the Torklift product line. My ideal solution would be an extension fabricated from 2.5" solid stock but I've yet to find that. The closest I've seen is the Titan extensions. Those are a bit pricey (compared to the 2" extensions) and too long for my intended setup. However, if I went with one, they don't reduce capacity at all.
Safety is #1 and I wouldn't have started the thread if I just wanted to bolt on the cheapest option. Thanks for all the input!
I assume a product that is sold by multiple reputable dealers has been tested and rated correctly. I have no doubt about the quality and capability of the Torklift product line. My ideal solution would be an extension fabricated from 2.5" solid stock but I've yet to find that. The closest I've seen is the Titan extensions. Those are a bit pricey (compared to the 2" extensions) and too long for my intended setup. However, if I went with one, they don't reduce capacity at all.
Safety is #1 and I wouldn't have started the thread if I just wanted to bolt on the cheapest option. Thanks for all the input!
Whoever told you that tell them put down the crack pipe. I don't care who makes the extension. Any extension, no matter what it is made of will reduce the hitch capacity, period!! An extension will reduce your 1800# hitch down to 900# even down to 600#! It would be one thing to lose a boat but if you want to gamble the lives of your horses to save a couple bucks then that's up to you. I would not trust anything less than a Super Hitch. JMHO
'17 Class C 22' Conquest on Ford E 450 with V 10. 4000 Onan, Quad 6 volt AGMs, 515 watts solar.
'12 Northstar Liberty on a '16 Super Duty 6.2. Twin 6 volt AGMs with 300 watts solar.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
~DJ~ wrote:
I would not trust anything less than a Super Hitch.
I would not trust anything less than a Super Hitch.
Anyone who's read this thread realizes that every hitch extension reduces capacity. That's the case with a Super Hitch as well.
'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.
NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member
SoCalDesertRider wrote:
I really like having an 8 foot camper, on a one-ton truck with an 8 foot bed, and towing whatever I want to tow, without any special considerations.
I really like having an 8 foot camper, on a one-ton truck with an 8 foot bed, and towing whatever I want to tow, without any special considerations.
Boy truer words were never spoken ...I recently upgraded from a 8 footer to a 9.5 and I'm yanking my hair out getting my truck set up to haul a car trailer...and no I am not going for one of those ridiculously priced truss hitches from that well known company.
A lot of aggravation just so the "cook" has a place to go to the bathroom.
jimh425 wrote:
Anyone who's read this thread realizes that every hitch extension reduces capacity. That's the case with a Super Hitch as well.
~DJ~ wrote:
I would not trust anything less than a Super Hitch.
I would not trust anything less than a Super Hitch.
Anyone who's read this thread realizes that every hitch extension reduces capacity. That's the case with a Super Hitch as well.
Absolutely!!! Put a 60" extension in anything but a Super Hitch and see if you still have 600/6000.
GeoBoy wrote:
I don't understand some people. They buy a truck that is or they build up to be capable of carrying a 9+' or larger camper. They buy a trailer to carry their toys or critters and then they get cheap on the hitch and extension to safely support this trailer with their expensive toys or critters in the trailer. What about the insurance to insure their toys or critters? Probably going with a HIGH deductible to save a few dollars, and not if but when they have a accident that HIGH deductible would have paid for the proper hitch and extension in the first place.
I don't understand some people. They buy a truck that is or they build up to be capable of carrying a 9+' or larger camper. They buy a trailer to carry their toys or critters and then they get cheap on the hitch and extension to safely support this trailer with their expensive toys or critters in the trailer. What about the insurance to insure their toys or critters? Probably going with a HIGH deductible to save a few dollars, and not if but when they have a accident that HIGH deductible would have paid for the proper hitch and extension in the first place.
^^^^^^THIS^^^^^!!!!
Not everyone tows heavy, go with a lighter duty setup and be happy. But I see car haulers, horse trailers..boats..then won't spend a few hundred more for a good hitch and extension it baffles me if you do tow heavy.
Not because I care about your animals, boats or toys...because I don't want to crash into your junk when it falls off the back!
If you tow heavy, spend a few hundred more and care about your stuff and others.
2017 Ford F-350, crewcab, 4x4, 6.7 diesel.
2016 Thunderjet Luxor 21' limited edition, Yamaha powered.
2016 Wolf Creek 840-SOLD, Arctic Fox 990 ordered.
That said, I am a bit confused about all the "towing heavy" comments. I know lots of people towing gooseneck horse trailers with living quarters that are what I'd consider heavy (10-20klb). A 5500# fully loaded trailer doesn't seem like it would be in the "heavy" range. I agree that live loads are certainly worth protecting, but I'm not looking to do anything that's unsafe. I just don't agree that the TL setup is necessarily manditory for a sufficiently short extension. I'm a ME and understand about the loads, but there is a difference between 60" and 12-18". Either way, I understand the opinions here and will use them going forward. I will most likely keep the factory hitch and upgrade to a SuperHitch if/when I "upgrade" to needing horses.
Thanks for all the input.
![[image]](https://photos-5.dropbox.com/t/2/AAC3yj-Y4ye8jHyxcI4av9GJ9x6SR7Ko_T0KvYgGOMZyqQ/12/82630673/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/20160823_175056.jpg/EIjoqUAYlAMgBygH/H4PUkt6MkdAB_BTdNyThcGGVHI_GJhHy9nyQYy6n3EE?size=1024x768&size_mode=3)
bkenobi wrote:
If I could find a fiberglass camper that was 8', I'd go that way in a heartbeat. I'm only going 9.5' because that's what Bigfoot and Northern Lite chose as their minimum.
That said, I am a bit confused about all the "towing heavy" comments. I know lots of people towing gooseneck horse trailers with living quarters that are what I'd consider heavy (10-20klb). A 5500# fully loaded trailer doesn't seem like it would be in the "heavy" range. I agree that live loads are certainly worth protecting, but I'm not looking to do anything that's unsafe. I just don't agree that the TL setup is necessarily manditory for a sufficiently short extension. I'm a ME and understand about the loads, but there is a difference between 60" and 12-18". Either way, I understand the opinions here and will use them going forward. I will most likely keep the factory hitch and upgrade to a SuperHitch if/when I "upgrade" to needing horses.
Thanks for all the input.
If I could find a fiberglass camper that was 8', I'd go that way in a heartbeat. I'm only going 9.5' because that's what Bigfoot and Northern Lite chose as their minimum.
That said, I am a bit confused about all the "towing heavy" comments. I know lots of people towing gooseneck horse trailers with living quarters that are what I'd consider heavy (10-20klb). A 5500# fully loaded trailer doesn't seem like it would be in the "heavy" range. I agree that live loads are certainly worth protecting, but I'm not looking to do anything that's unsafe. I just don't agree that the TL setup is necessarily manditory for a sufficiently short extension. I'm a ME and understand about the loads, but there is a difference between 60" and 12-18". Either way, I understand the opinions here and will use them going forward. I will most likely keep the factory hitch and upgrade to a SuperHitch if/when I "upgrade" to needing horses.
Thanks for all the input.
As a ME, you understand the difference of a GN pulling a heavy trailer down the road compared to a TC, extention and then hanging a 6000k trailer off the end of a fulcrum right?
I'm 18k combined going down the road. My setup would be dangerous and scary on a cheap extention and other mods I've done to make it feel safe. Again though...it is about feel and I do consider loads in the 5-6k range behind a little added TC and extention pretty heavy and pushing a trucks limits.
I'd also hook up to a GN triple axle 20k trailer without much worry with my truck...VERY different scenarios. IMHO.
Like I said if you can work within the limits of your setup go for it. That is perfectly acceptable and I'd the same. I needed a 42" extension to get past my TC, it was mandatory for my needs.
Good luck just watch your equipment. I believe it was boatycall that had a factory hitch fail on him so you might pick his brain some.
bkenobi wrote:
As an ME, I assume that a product that is rated has gone through testing. I have not done any towing to speak of though which is why I posted the topic. I appreciate informed opinions with real world experience to back it up. The dealerships may have both, but they come across as tools of TL or whoever else pays the bills making them tough to trust. The only thing that is a given is that the mfg installs a hitch and rates it at some load. If I don't exceed that I should be good. If not, they would be sued and out of business.
As an ME, I assume that a product that is rated has gone through testing. I have not done any towing to speak of though which is why I posted the topic. I appreciate informed opinions with real world experience to back it up. The dealerships may have both, but they come across as tools of TL or whoever else pays the bills making them tough to trust. The only thing that is a given is that the mfg installs a hitch and rates it at some load. If I don't exceed that I should be good. If not, they would be sued and out of business.
Sometimes you need to look around a bit, but you will find the standard extension's ratings do speak of a reduction in rating for the hitch it attaches to. The TL is designed as system, and I would trust their ratings. I think Reese has a similar system.
Another method is to use a long draw bar, which claim no reduction in rating. Longest drawbar I know of.
'18 Bigfoot 1500
Torklifts and Fastguns
'17 F350 Powerstroke Supercab SRW LB 4X4
If you do opt to use the TL hitch, and want to use an extension in the future, you would want to get the hitch for nuse with the tie downs that utilize the tie down extension with the hitch, rather than frame work brackets. As far as the TL hitch/tiedown/extension--TL is second to none! There is a short vidieo or picture out there somewhere of a truck and camper that got into a roll over situation, and the truck camper remained tied to the truck. While we consider price versus build, I beleive you get what you pay for, and not an enthusiast of risk management building. Always better to overbuild, than underbuild. TL tests there equipment that they sell, and recently were able to uprate their magnum hitch to 30K tow rating through DOT testing. Call them and ask.
bkenobi wrote:
I was thinking this morning that g I ng with an 8' might be easier all the way around until I remembered a couple details. Almost all campers seem to have some sort of bumper/porch/step setup and/or a valence extending past the truck bumper. Even when they don't, I have friends who clipped their jacks with the trailer and either dented the trailer or bent the jack. In both instances they pointed out they were looking at a hitch extension. Again, both were flush with the truck bumper, so that's really a best case setup. I'm not towing now, so I think I'll stick with the factory hitch and no extension. If/when I get to that point, I'll get the super hitch. I suppose I might get lucky and find one on CL between now and then!
I was thinking this morning that g I ng with an 8' might be easier all the way around until I remembered a couple details. Almost all campers seem to have some sort of bumper/porch/step setup and/or a valence extending past the truck bumper. Even when they don't, I have friends who clipped their jacks with the trailer and either dented the trailer or bent the jack. In both instances they pointed out they were looking at a hitch extension. Again, both were flush with the truck bumper, so that's really a best case setup. I'm not towing now, so I think I'll stick with the factory hitch and no extension. If/when I get to that point, I'll get the super hitch. I suppose I might get lucky and find one on CL between now and then!
I didn't read if you have a long bed but presume so from the discussion. Pursuant to your concerns above, yeah most campers have something that is lower than the truck bed, behind the bed.
That's one of the main reasons I looked at the short AF 860 models. Not being an AF salesman although, aside from being very heavy, both or my older ones have been solid and pretty much trouble free.
The older and some newer AFs don't have any overhang below the level of the truck bed which makes for a lot of vertical clearance for trailer hitches.
In a long bed truck you could plop an 860 or 811 model without the built in gen set and have virtually zero issues hookjng any trailer up using no hitch extension. Plus with the truck you have, the weight won't be a huge issue and the slide out will give it the room of a 9-10' non slide camper.
Like I said earlier, mine is in a short bed Dodge so it hangs over around 2.5' out the back and I've pulled multiple trailers with only a 12" solid bar hitch extension. I can't Jack knife a trailer into a tight spot with it, but can if I swap to a longer extension if I'm in a pinch.
bkenobi wrote:
That unit is 600/6000 so wouldn't work for me. Also, I'm not sure where the 15-3/4 is measured from. I've seen it represent the length of the shank which means the extension would be more like 10" rather than 16". Thanks for the link!
That unit is 600/6000 so wouldn't work for me. Also, I'm not sure where the 15-3/4 is measured from. I've seen it represent the length of the shank which means the extension would be more like 10" rather than 16". Thanks for the link!
Measured hole center to hole center, so you are correct about the effective extension length.
Grit dog wrote:
Oh and any friends who crunched a trailer into an 8' camper in an 8' truck bed just don't know how to drive.
Oh and any friends who crunched a trailer into an 8' camper in an 8' truck bed just don't know how to drive.
Ha!
I was backing an 8ft truck with an 8ft camper connected to a horse trailer down a hill that had a 90* turn right at the bottom and DW was standing at the turn spotting for me and everything was fine until it wasn't.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/frown.gif "frown")
the trailer and camper met at their top corners,I was going real slow and she hollered as soon as they touched and nothing was hurt. We were very surprised.
That was with the ball mounted on the bumper.
We all doo it!
Now let's talk about the bilge plug club with boat owners.......
Those that have launched and forgotten to put the plug in and those that eventually WILL do the same!
Let's just say I'm a member of both groups now and my wife laughed her @@@ssss off!!
Grit dog wrote:
Ya, and I punched a hole in the skin or my last Sno machine trialer with the back of a snowmobile on the sled deck! Even knew it would happen since I loaded the longer machines on the deck and not in the trailer!
We all doo it!
Now let's talk about the bilge plug club with boat owners.......
Those that have launched and forgotten to put the plug in and those that eventually WILL do the same!
Let's just say I'm a member of both groups now and my wife laughed her @@@ssss off!!
Ya, and I punched a hole in the skin or my last Sno machine trialer with the back of a snowmobile on the sled deck! Even knew it would happen since I loaded the longer machines on the deck and not in the trailer!
We all doo it!
Now let's talk about the bilge plug club with boat owners.......
Those that have launched and forgotten to put the plug in and those that eventually WILL do the same!
Let's just say I'm a member of both groups now and my wife laughed her @@@ssss off!!
I've made that number one on my list....plug in and it has worked so far. I do keep 4 extras in the glove box on the boat! Lol I know it will happen someday.....
2007 Lance 1181, 2013 Chevy 3500 DRW
When I come back to California from Oregon and stop at the border station and my plug is in I get fined.
2011 Host Everest, 11.5',triple slide.
2011 F-350,DRW,CC,LWB,4X4,6.7
Vinsil wrote:
Everything is illegal in CA..sheesh.
Everything is illegal in CA..sheesh.
drained boat = dry boat = no surviving invasive species on board to upset the ecology. Just witness the spread of the quagga mussel here in CA
http://resources.ca.gov/quagga/
In AZ, you're supposed to drain your boat and remove any mussels from the hull before leaving the lake. This is to keep mussels from one lake from migrating to another lake, when boats are used at multiple lakes. I don't know of any law about having the plug in or out while traveling on the highway.
Buzzcut1 wrote:
drained boat = dry boat = no surviving invasive species on board to upset the ecology. Just witness the spread of the quagga mussel here in CA
http://resources.ca.gov/quagga/
Vinsil wrote:
Everything is illegal in CA..sheesh.
Everything is illegal in CA..sheesh.
drained boat = dry boat = no surviving invasive species on board to upset the ecology. Just witness the spread of the quagga mussel here in CA
http://resources.ca.gov/quagga/
While I get the invasive species being a real issue (we have the issue up here) the hull more of a concern in the end and is that illegal if you don't scrub down between each body of water too? Seems like another law that might have had some good intentions but is really completely worthless and just gives up some more freedom.
I always travel with my plug out AND wash down between each outing as well.
Guess it's just more of my biased hatred of CA coming out though. *shrug*
lol
Vinsil wrote:
While I get the invasive species being a real issue (we have the issue up here) the hull more of a concern in the end and is that illegal if you don't scrub down between each body of water too? Seems like another law that might have had some good intentions but is really completely worthless and just gives up some more freedom.
I always travel with my plug out AND wash down between each outing as well.
Guess it's just more of my biased hatred of CA coming out though. *shrug*
lol
Buzzcut1 wrote:
drained boat = dry boat = no surviving invasive species on board to upset the ecology. Just witness the spread of the quagga mussel here in CA
http://resources.ca.gov/quagga/
Vinsil wrote:
Everything is illegal in CA..sheesh.
Everything is illegal in CA..sheesh.
drained boat = dry boat = no surviving invasive species on board to upset the ecology. Just witness the spread of the quagga mussel here in CA
http://resources.ca.gov/quagga/
While I get the invasive species being a real issue (we have the issue up here) the hull more of a concern in the end and is that illegal if you don't scrub down between each body of water too? Seems like another law that might have had some good intentions but is really completely worthless and just gives up some more freedom.
I always travel with my plug out AND wash down between each outing as well.
Guess it's just more of my biased hatred of CA coming out though. *shrug*
lol
no we just have more self entitled clueless ########s here that will only care if it hits them in the wallet vs doing the right thing
I used to take off for a month of fishing lakes the many lakes in California. In a month I would fish 10-20 lakes.
Now, with all the inspections, it could cost you up to $1000 for inspections if you visit many lakes.Some lakes will accept inspections(stickers) from other lakes, but many will not.
I now fish only lakes in Oregon. I pay a little over $20 for permit when I buy my fishing license and I am done. I can fish as many lakes as I like and my initial fee ($20+) is all I pay.In California I nickle and dimed to death.
California also instituted a $16 mussel fee on your boat license in addition to all the individual lake inspection fees.
It is much cheaper for me to drive the 1200 mile round trip to fish in Oregon than to fish in my own state.
I have never had a boat inspection in Oregon.So far they only ask to see that I have paid the inspection fee on my fishing license.
The only saving grace(so far), is that I have never seen an inspection or fee on California's rivers, but I still have to pay the $16 fee on my boat license.
skyhammer wrote:
In California it is against the law to travel with the boat plug in.
When I come back to California from Oregon and stop at the border station and my plug is in I get fined.
In California it is against the law to travel with the boat plug in.
When I come back to California from Oregon and stop at the border station and my plug is in I get fined.
I got scolded about that going through Idaho too. But it was obvious the boat wasn't headed for water as evidenced by the moving boxes inside it!
I'm in agreement with trying to stop the spread of zebra mussels, but like many govt initiatives, it's a flawed plan, until you can also keep every migratory bird from transferring them as well! Plus some of the bumbling around by park service trying to Decon my boat, that actually resulted in a guy taking a high pressure shot from a Hotsy pressure washer/steam cleaner confirmed that they're not getting them all no matter how they try.
It was the zebra mussel check that got me with the bilge plug. My boat has a center plug that is the low point for draining and another on the transom that is largely ineffective unless there's a lot of water in the bilge. I had the center plug out that I always leave in a cup holder with the keys, so I'm not THAT guy. Lol
Well I was required to take out the rear plug as it was most visible.
Between talking, wrangling the kids, prepping the boat, switching drivers, forgot that plug in my pocket! After the first onset of panic as I watched my truck and trailer pull away out of sight of the ramp while the bilge pumps kicked on and the immediate jump in the lake, clothes, wallet, phone and all, it was pretty funny! Would not have been funny if I dropped that plug in the lake cause I didn't have a spare and hanging off the swim deck with my toe in the hole would have made getting the boat on the trailer interesting!
zb39 wrote:
This is correct. The super hitch works WITH your factory hitch. NOT complicated at all.
Buy quality once and never worry about it.
Fishhunter wrote:
No need to remove factory hitch, get the D1104 Torklift hitch
No need to remove factory hitch, get the D1104 Torklift hitch
This is correct. The super hitch works WITH your factory hitch. NOT complicated at all.
Buy quality once and never worry about it.
I have a 2016 RAM 3500 and the TL Superhitch bolts up underneath the factory one. I am using a 42" extension towing my trailer with a Jeep on it and it is really steady, wouldn't want to try it with any other setup - lots of stress on that extension when going over frost heaves, etc...
2016 EC 960; 2016 RAM 3500 DRW CTD; Superhitch w/42" Ext; 2006 Jeep LJ Rubicon w/16' carhauler
It was kind of a fun stop.