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Topic: Do You Use Centering Blocks/Devices?
Posted By: 996Pilot on 08/02/16 11:07am

My new truck (2015 RAM 3500 SRW) is a bit wider (the outside of the bed) than the old truck. When I placed the camper in the bed last weekend I was concerned that the space between the wheel wells and the camper base allowed for a total of about 2" of side to side movement. I only have 1" side to side clearance on the outside of the bed (fender flares) and the camper jacks. Too close for my comfort if things shift.

Question is how many people use something placed in the bed of the truck to center it between the wheel wells? What kind of tool/block/device is commonly used to guide and center the camper base to its final resting place in the truck bed? Anything sold or all devices fabricated?

Also, I'd feel more comfortable if I had something to space the camper back (just a tad) from the front of the bed. I know Torklift makes front bumper strips but at $50 I'd want to know if they are effective (and worth it).

I'm just really coddling this new (to me) truck and trying to set it up to keep it looking clean and fresh. Suggestions ???

2018 Arctic Fox 811
2015 RAM 3500 SRW Laramie Longhorn 6.7 Cummins 68RFE Timbren SES, Lower Stableloads
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 Laramie 5.9 Cummins 48RE TRADED
2006 Outfitter Apex 8 TRADED


Posted By: finsruskw on 08/02/16 11:13am

I stood a 2x6 on edge the width of the bed at the front.
Then, I cut 2 pcs of 6x6 about 18" long at an angle and screwed & glued 'em to the ends of the 2x6.
The angle guides the TC to center when backing under it.

If one 2x6 is too close for comfort, use 2 of them. This will give you about 2" of clearance between the front of the TC and the upper front edge of the bed.

Works like a charm for me.

Posted By: jimh406 on 08/02/16 11:29am

I don't use any, but if you search the archives, you should be able to find some.

'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.

NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member


Posted By: Grit dog on 08/02/16 01:39pm

My camper bumpstops allow the camper too far forward, contacting the top of the bed.
I just stand a 3" spacer, ( 2 -2xs nailed together) against the front of the bed.
If you wanted to close the gap on the sides, make 3/4 of a picture frame out of the front spacer and a couple 1xs or 3/4 plywood.
Fwiw I've not noticed my camper shifting side to side at all in many miles of bad roads.
Then again, it's heavy enough that it's made its own indentations in the truck bed! Prolly helps keep it locked in!

2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Posted By: JimK-NY on 08/02/16 02:12pm

I wish I had 2" of clearance. I have about a half inch. I leave the camper on the truck and have only had to load it 4 times in over 6 years. I finally found a solution to loading. At least I tried something new last year and had instant success. I will soon be reloading again so I have my fingers crossed. Last year I used a $40 laser level from Lowes. The laser level is about 8" long and has a strong magnet on the based. I attach the laser to the wheel well and have a mark on the camper. As I back up I keep the laser aligned with the mark. I do have to stop a couple of times to point the laser higher. Of course, I also have to remove the laser level before I lower the camper into position. Last year I loaded exactly on the first try.

I have seen a description of V shaped blocks to guide the camper into position. I would think twice about using something like that. The jacks and brackets are not designed to have a strong force pushing sideways. I would be concerned about tearing the brackets from the camper or bending the brackets or jacks.

BTW, after loading I place boards on both sides between the camper and the wheel wells. This would prevent any sliding or shifting in the truck bed after loading.

My camper has a nylon or dense plastic bumper in the front that contacts the bed of the truck and prevents the camper from being positioned too far forward. I found I need a bit more clearance and used duct tape to attach an additional piece of 5/8" plywood. I should probably just permanently attach the plywood.

Posted By: bcbigfoot on 08/02/16 02:58pm

I use wood blocks to keep the camper centered.

2002 Dodge 3500 2wd dually, cummins, 4.10 gears, 10500gvwr, Rancho 9000's shocks
2005 Bigfoot 259.6E, 80watt solar, eu2000 Honda gen., 2x group 31 AGM bats., 7100 btu aircond, electric rear step.


Posted By: SoCalDesertRider on 08/02/16 03:03pm

I use wood blocks bolted to the bed floor on each side in the front of the bed.

[image]

* This post was edited 08/02/16 03:15pm by SoCalDesertRider *

01 International 4800 4x4 CrewCab DT466E Allison MD3060
69Bronco 86Samurai 85ATC250R 89CR500
98Ranger 96Tacoma
20' BigTex flatbed
8' truck camper, 14' Aristocrat TT
73 Kona 17' ski boat & Mercury 1150TB
92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6 285 BFG AT 4.56 & LockRite rear

Posted By: CAJW on 08/02/16 03:26pm

Here's what we use. Not my idea, just plagurized and modified from others, but works well. 8th post from top of page
Guides

2013 AF 996, 2013 Chevy 3500 CC,LWB,4X4, Duramax, DRW, 3.73 rear, Torklift Stableloads & Tie-downs,Fast Guns, Ride Rite Air Bags, Superhitch w/ 32" extension.Big Wigs, Front Timbrens, TST TPMS-507,CubbyCam, Trimetric. TM & SC 2030 150W + 100W suitcase

Posted By: finsruskw on 08/02/16 05:59pm

You are already gonna be most of the way centered while backing under the TC when you are between the wheel wells. That is unless you have it raised up way to high and above them to begin with.

The centering blocks only come into play in the last few inches of back up. If you fear being off enough to screw up the jacks , chances are you are gonna hit the wheel wells not to mention the outer edge of the fenders in the case of a dually There is enough slop in my jacks for at least a couple inches wiggle/wobble room when at 2" or 3 " above the bed while backing under it.

Just be carefull and you will be fine. Use the "GOAL" Method.... Get Out And Look often.

Posted By: Ski Pro 3 on 08/02/16 06:15pm

I've discovered that I prefer to run my camper right up against the driver side wheel well, leaving a 2" gap on the passenger side. This is because of the slide-out on the passenger side. When I have the slide extended, my truck sags just a bit on that side as the day wears on; not right away. With the camper slightly to the driver side, the sag doesn't happen enough to have to adjust for.

Posted By: Bob B on 08/02/16 09:19pm

Here's how I set mine up.....The brackets are modified roof jacks from Lowe's.

Pic

2007 Lance 1181, 2013 Chevy 3500 DRW

Posted By: trail-explorer on 08/02/16 09:24pm

996Pilot wrote:

Also, I'd feel more comfortable if I had something to space the camper back (just a tad) from the front of the bed.


Piece of lumber that runs the full width of the bed is the best (and cheapest) bump stop for the front of the camper.

Bob

Posted By: SoCalDesertRider on 08/02/16 09:27pm

Bob B wrote:

Here's how I set mine up.....The brackets are modified roof jacks from Lowe's.

Pic
Fixed it.
[image]

Posted By: Bob B on 08/02/16 09:28pm

Thanks .... too late tonight and I forgot how to post a pic [emoticon]

Posted By: mkirsch on 08/03/16 06:59am

Quote:

I have seen a description of V shaped blocks to guide the camper into position. I would think twice about using something like that. The jacks and brackets are not designed to have a strong force pushing sideways. I would be concerned about tearing the brackets from the camper or bending the brackets or jacks.


We're only talking about an inch of movement, at most. My camper will easily "wiggle" an inch in any direction sitting on the jacks.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

Posted By: joeshmoe on 08/03/16 12:41pm

skipro3 wrote:

I've discovered that I prefer to run my camper right up against the driver side wheel well, leaving a 2" gap on the passenger side. This is because of the slide-out on the passenger side. When I have the slide extended, my truck sags just a bit on that side as the day wears on; not right away. With the camper slightly to the driver side, the sag doesn't happen enough to have to adjust for.


Same with mine except I have to run it up the pass side well. Most of the amenities are located on the driver side, including the fuel tank, but my spring pack is a little tired, so it sags, like yours. It leans pretty bad if not all the way over to the right. Add in a full gray and black tank, it looks like the Tower of Pesa.

2014 Northwood Wolf Creek 850
2005 Ford F350 SRW SuperCab/LongBed 6.0 Powerstroke
QuickTrick's Towing Tune
Torklift Tie Downs/Fastguns/Upper/Lower Stableloads
Rancho 9000's

Posted By: SoCalDesertRider on 08/03/16 04:27pm

I have noticed, from owning several Ford trucks of various years, that Ford truck left front springs sag out before any other spring on the truck. Doesn't matter if it's leaf springs or coil springs. All of my Fords have had the front driver's side droop.

Posted By: KKELLER14K on 08/03/16 06:12pm

[image]

[image]

Simple and cheep.

Posted By: JimK-NY on 08/03/16 06:27pm

mkirsch wrote:

Quote:

I have seen a description of V shaped blocks to guide the camper into position. I would think twice about using something like that. The jacks and brackets are not designed to have a strong force pushing sideways. I would be concerned about tearing the brackets from the camper or bending the brackets or jacks.


We're only talking about an inch of movement, at most. My camper will easily "wiggle" an inch in any direction sitting on the jacks.


Please explain this "wiggle" business. I notice a very little wiggle when the camper is raised really high. Mostly I notice some movement if I do not lower all the jacks at exactly the same rate.

What wiggles? My jacks don't seem to bend, flex, or wiggle. Certainly the brackets don't bend, flex or wiggle. Nor do the sides of my camper. I would guess you are bending the wooden frame of your camper. That may not be a great idea.

Posted By: Bob B on 08/03/16 06:37pm

If you run the jacks all the way up .... as I have to to get the camper on ... and push on the side of the camper, it is going to move.

There are a LOT of people using the centering devices of various type, and I have never heard of a problem resulting from it.

Posted By: AnEv942 on 08/03/16 07:23pm

Add 'plastic' rub rails to camper, or dually brackets to jacks. Must be some fairly large "flares?
Space out the bump stops or longer ones.

01 Ford F250 4x4 DRW Diesel, 01 Elkhorn 9U
Our camper projects page

Posted By: Hemi Joel on 08/03/16 09:41pm

I've driven over 90,000 miles with my last 3 campers in the bed of my 93 Dodge dually. I have never blocked the camper in place, and never had an issue. I do have a .060" thick piece of rubber roofing under the camper, that has more friction than if the camper was sitting on bare steel. I would not bother with any type of block system.

2018 Eagle Cap 1163 triple slide, 400W solar, MPPT, on a 93 Dodge D350 Cummins, DTT 89 torque converter, big turbo, 3 extra main leafs, Rancho 9000s rear, Monroe gas magnums front, upper overloads removed, home made stableloads, bags.


Posted By: Reality Check on 08/03/16 11:28pm

JimK-NY wrote:

mkirsch wrote:

Quote:

I have seen a description of V shaped blocks to guide the camper into position. I would think twice about using something like that. The jacks and brackets are not designed to have a strong force pushing sideways. I would be concerned about tearing the brackets from the camper or bending the brackets or jacks.


We're only talking about an inch of movement, at most. My camper will easily "wiggle" an inch in any direction sitting on the jacks.


Please explain this "wiggle" business. I notice a very little wiggle when the camper is raised really high. Mostly I notice some movement if I do not lower all the jacks at exactly the same rate.

What wiggles? My jacks don't seem to bend, flex, or wiggle. Certainly the brackets don't bend, flex or wiggle. Nor do the sides of my camper. I would guess you are bending the wooden frame of your camper. That may not be a great idea.


So they mean sway... don't let semantics get in the way.

Campers sway/wiggle/move. Steel moves, flexes, bends. Parts give and slop back and forth. Give the designers credit, these things can take quite a bit of juggling/swaying/bumping/wiggling without any damage. As stated; push on a camper that's up in the air...it "moves" a lot.

I'm sure some would shudder watching me slide into ours. Get it close and ram it home. I have zero clearance between my rails on the bed and the plates added on the camper; steel on steel as it slides into position. Without a doubt, I'm never as lined up as perfect can be which translates to pushing it one way or the other regardless. 20/30+ loads and unloads a year and I'm fairly confident it's all still good.

'16 F550 CC, 4x4 with Link Ultraride air suspension, '18 AF 1150. Just so we can play with our snowmobiles, dirt bikes and fishing boat. And new 20' tag along...kayaks, bikes, mc's and extra water and food!!

Posted By: 996Pilot on 08/04/16 01:40pm

Thanks for all of the suggestions/comments on this topic. The folks here never seem to lack support, opinions and a general willingness to help and for that I am very appreciative.

I like the setup shown by KKELLER14K above. It looks like it'll do what I need and it's cheap. I'm also going with a 1" thick piece of very dense insulation foam board under the camper (also cheap). I know it will slightly compress however several folks here have had good success with it.

I have my weekend project all planned now. Thanks

Posted By: mkirsch on 08/04/16 02:04pm

JimK-NY wrote:

mkirsch wrote:

We're only talking about an inch of movement, at most. My camper will easily "wiggle" an inch in any direction sitting on the jacks.


Please explain this "wiggle" business. I notice a very little wiggle when the camper is raised really high. Mostly I notice some movement if I do not lower all the jacks at exactly the same rate.

What wiggles? My jacks don't seem to bend, flex, or wiggle. Certainly the brackets don't bend, flex or wiggle. Nor do the sides of my camper. I would guess you are bending the wooden frame of your camper. That may not be a great idea.


It's very simple: I push on my camper while it sits on the jacks, and it moves/sways/swings/wiggles in the direction I push it. Pushing with all my strength, I can get maybe 1-1/2", enough to clear a 2x4 on edge. The jacks flex; they can't help but flex, and maybe the camper frame does too, but there is no way I can push hard enough by hand to cause any damage.

Posted By: NSP-Biker on 08/04/16 09:20pm

I found this plan on this forum about ten years ago.
[image]

1999 PSD F-350 SRW K&N, Sys-1, Ride-Rite
2005 Northern Lite 10.2CD "Special Edition"
2004 XL650L
GSX1100G, VS700 (Hers), 53 Belair (Hers), Z50R
More girls than I ever hoped for...(mom + 2 lovely daughters)

Posted By: SoCalDesertRider on 08/05/16 08:50am

You may want to add some support under the tail of the camper on each side where it widens out beyond 4 feet. My current camper has a thick plywood screwed under it, installed by a previous owner. The sides are sagging where the plywood doesn't support them, since a 4x8 sheet was used. It doesn't look like the previous owner supported underneath the sides.

On my previous camper, which I also spaced up with a 3/4" plywood sheet, I also used 2 small pieces of plywood under the rear sides to keep the surface even and didn't have any sagging problem with the sides of that camper.

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