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| Topic: Hypothetical DC electrical Question |
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Posted By: TominTampa
on 07/11/16 10:22am
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Hello All, I have a hypothetical question concerning DC electrical power in a diesel pusher RV. Our rig is a 96 Dynasty with a mechanical Cummins C8.3 (96 was supposedly the last year for the mechanical C8.3, then they went to computer controlled). Now what if the engines alternator failed. First you get a warning on your dash, most likely the "ALT" light would come on, or you "VOLT" light, then you would pull over and try to figure out what's causing the problem. So, let's say that you conclude that the alternator has failed, and here's where the hypothetical part comes in. When I run the Onan generator AC is supplied for the coaches AC needs, and some of that AC is converted into DC and fed into the DC system for charging the battery, running the lights, etc. So, would the Onan generator supply the DC voltage I needed to limp home until I could get the engine alternator repaired? The engines DC needs are relatively small as opposed to a gas engine, and I figured with daytime driving only it might actually work. Any inputs are much appreciated. - Tom 1996 Monaco Dynasty 36', Cummins C8.3 with Banks Stinger kit, Allison 6 speed.
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Posted By: barmcd
on 07/11/16 10:29am
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I've read where people have actually done this to get back home. You just have to use the genset to charge the chassis battery. I'm not sure how you can safely do that though--someone with better understanding of the two systems may be able to supply the procedure.
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Posted By: Artum Snowbird
on 07/11/16 10:36am
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When I had my Triple E motorhome is was equipped with a Bi-Directional relay in the charging circuit. Which ever side had available charging voltage would send the power through the relay contacts to the other side. All this worked very well until the day I pulled up to the ferry terminal knowing gas was cheaper on the other side. It was a wait, and I did not open the door so the head light alarm never came on. Blah, withing an hour, the chassis battery was dead. I started the generator, and blah blah, I was so low on gas, it would not stay running. Long story was, got going and onto the ferry just in time with help from the ferry station jump start, kept the engine running for a few minutes, and all was well again. Mike 2012 Winnebago Impulse Silver 26QP 2005 16.6 Double Eagle 2018 Jeep Wrangler JK previously Snowbird Campers, Triple E Motorhome and Fifth Wheel |
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Posted By: Mandalay Parr
on 07/11/16 10:49am
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On mine the generator supplies both battery systems. Might find a friend with a meter to verify on yours. Jerry Parr Full-time 2005 Mandalay 40B Cat C7 350, 4 Slides Blue Ox, Brake Buddy 2004 CR-V Toad [email protected] 602-321-8141 K7OU - Amateur Radio Kenwood Radios ARRL, W5YI, & LARC VE SKYWARN Weather Spotter |
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Posted By: time2roll
on 07/11/16 11:27am
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Yes if your house system charged by the generator also maintains the chassis battery with enough amps it will work. Two summers ago I drove several hours with the ALT light on and drooping voltmeter as I knew my solar powered trailer will push some power forward to my truck. Made for a 2.5 hour lunch stop on schedule vs. pulling over or getting stuck waiting for a tow. Still everyone was booked so I did the repair in the O'Reily's parking lot in Gillette WY. 2001 F150 SuperCrew 2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS 675w Solar pictures back up |
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Posted By: YC 1
on 07/11/16 12:28pm
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Absolutely it will work. You do need to verify that your engine batteries are getting the voltage in that situation,. Some rv's have a feature to not allow both banks together if the engine is running and the generator is running. If the alternator is out. It still may try to disable the combining function so you would need to verify they are getting the charge. A simple jumper around the solenoid that controls that function or one car jumper cable will work but not as safely. You can either find out how to activate that solenoid mentioned or just take the wires off and bolt together or stack them up on one post if there is room. Be sure to take pictures first. H/R Endeavor 2008 2013 Ford Edge toad Full Timers
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Posted By: Ivylog
on 07/11/16 12:57pm
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Yes your generator/inverter/charger will become your spare alternator. No need to run it all of the time unless at night with the lights on. Don't let the voltage get too low or you many not be able to start the generator. I always thought on my Dynasty the generator was started by the house batteries. Learned the hard way it is not.
This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose. Sold 04 Dynasty to our son after 14 great years. Upgraded with a 08 HR Navigator 45’... |
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Posted By: bdpreece
on 07/11/16 01:10pm
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I would not take a chance that the on board systems would automatically supply charging voltage to the engine batteries. Some only do so after they sense that the house batteries are at full charge. What I have done in the past is just carry a set of jumper cables. I start the generator then jumper from the house battery plus post to the engine battery plus post. No need to jumper the negative since they share a common ground. Over the years this has gotten me home more than once.
Brian, Loretta & Daisy (Golden Retriever) 2008 Holiday Rambler Endeavor PDQ40 2014 Ford Explorer toad
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Posted By: wolfe10
on 07/11/16 01:41pm
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As already posted, it MAY work just fine. Yes, absolutely, your converter, charger or inverter/charger will charge the HOUSE BATTERIES. On SOME COACHES, it also charges the CHASSIS BATTERIES-- by no means on all. Some coaches have a "boost/combine" switch that closes a relay/solenoid so that the two banks are combined. May be an intermittent duty solenoid or constant duty one. Some coaches have a low amp combiner (Xantrex Echo Charger for example), but likely not sufficient to keep up a chassis battery with loads like fans, lights, etc. BUT, you can manually combine your banks. Whether at a battery isolator, battery boost/combiner solenoid or other place where you have large-gauge battery cables from both battery banks meeting at a common place. Merely take the large wire off one side and ADD IT to the other side. Presto, both banks being charged by your converter, charger or inverter/charger. Amp output of the charging device needs to be considered. Said another way, a 30 amp converter is NOT the same as a 2000 watt inverter with 100 amp charging capability. Brett Wolfe Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS Ex: 1997 Safari 35' Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240 Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/ |
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Posted By: gatorcq
on 07/11/16 02:34pm
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My rig has he ability to charge ALL batteries whether on Shore power, generator or alternator. Now in this day and age, you can buy a unit that will automatically charge the engine to coach. It is a microprocessor that is connected between the engine and coach Via 50 to 100 amp cables. It senses which battery is above 13 Vdc and allows the transfer of voltage. If this is an emergency, jumper cables IF your coach battery is very close to your engine battery Dale & Susan DaGirls II Rv - Dakota & Tilly Traveling Companions. 2008 Alfa Gold, 2015 Ford F150 XLT Roadmaster and Air Brake System 1600 Watts, Magnum Inv/Chg&Solar 800 Lithium Battery DaGirslRV Blog |
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Posted By: Bill.Satellite
on 07/11/16 03:33pm
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A DP uses very little battery power once started so you likely can drive for quite a distance without the alternator. I made it from Ontario, CA to Las Vegas. You just don't want to turn on your headlights and you want to turn off all other 12V devices that you can. As mentioned above, "if" the generator powers some source that charges your engine batteries (mine does not) you likely will be just fine but still want to try to reduce as many other 12V draws as possible as the charging source is likely not going to put out as many amps as your engine alternator would. What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK. Can't we all just get along? |
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Posted By: YC 1
on 07/11/16 04:59pm
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Any decent onboard converter would have no problem keeping up with headlights, radios, etc. The only thing when running the generator as I mentioned earlier is you need to use a voltmeter to see if the engine batteries are getting the voltage. You cannot assume the generator running will charge the engine batteries. These things are snow flakes and there are thousands of differences in setups.
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Posted By: Bill.Satellite
on 07/11/16 05:47pm
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Onboard converter? No, there are no converters in many (most?) Class A motorhomes (There are inverter/chargers in many (most). SOME Class A RV's charge the engine and house batteries via generator but "most" do not. Despite that limitation, the DP does not use a lot of battery capacity to keep the engine running (unlike a gas/spark ignition) and allows dramatically longer travel times if the alternator should fail.
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Posted By: TominTampa
on 07/11/16 05:53pm
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Thanks so much for all the replies! This has been a very lively conversation! - Tom
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Posted By: OLYLEN
on 07/11/16 06:38pm
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Just use jumper cables from the Coach to chassis batteries and you could go a long way. or use a cloths pin to keep the emergency start switch active. If a converter makes 12 volt supply from 120 and an inverter makes 120 from 12 volts why is a inverter/converter not the same as an inverter/charger. LEN |
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Posted By: bluwtr49
on 07/11/16 07:07pm
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A lot of considerations that are coach dependent but many are the same in basic operation. The alternator charges both the house and chassis by means of a bi-directional relay or something similar, Shore power charges the house batteries via the inverter or converter. The chassis batteries are kept topped off by either an echo charger or something similar. Regardless of the specifics there is generally some mechanism to keep both battery banks charged from both the alternator or shore power. If the alternatro fails than running the gen set will merely substiute for shore power and keep both bank charged. If one does not have an echo charger or such it's a simple matter to add on. A last ditch effort is to stick a toothpick into the battery parallel switch to keep it engaged.....been there done that..and it works well. Dick 2002 43' DP Beaver Marquis Emerald Cat C-12 505 HP, 1600 Tq 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland ---toad |
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Posted By: MrWizard
on 07/11/16 08:28pm
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My OEM chassis and house battery location is the same tray I had an alternator failure four years ago during a shake down trip to grand canyon, after an engine repair in Flagstaff I pulled over and put a jumper cable from house positive to engine positive, and then started the Oman And continued on our way back to flagstaff and had the alternator replaced * This post was edited 07/11/16 08:38pm by MrWizard * I can explain it to you. But I Can Not understand it for you ! .... Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service 1997 F53 Bounder 36s
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Posted By: YC 1
on 07/11/16 08:37pm
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OLYLEN wrote: Just use jumper cables from the Coach to chassis batteries and you could go a long way. or use a cloths pin to keep the emergency start switch active. If a converter makes 12 volt supply from 120 and an inverter makes 120 from 12 volts why is a inverter/converter not the same as an inverter/charger. LEN Symantics I often use the term charger to make it easier for the target audience to understand things. |
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Posted By: wa8yxm
on 07/12/16 08:04am
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Two answers depending on your RV 1: Many older RV's (And some newer ones) have a simple "one way" isolator. In this type of system when you are driving the Engine charges the house batteries but when you park, the engine battery is NOT charged by shore/generator power If you have that type of system the answer is NO, but (you can add a single jumper wire to do the job in many cases) 2: Many modern Motor homes (Last decade or so) have a BI-Directional isolator like Mine has In this case, if EITHER engine alternator or house converter is active, ALL batteries get charged.. And the answer is YES. Home was where I park it. but alas the. 2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times
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Posted By: big jim 2
on 07/14/16 05:42pm
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If you have voltage gauges on both sides measure voltage with generator off than measure with generator running. Make sure you wait long enough for generator to pick up the load. Two minutes should be long enough.
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Posted By: Kayteg1
on 07/14/16 05:48pm
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Let's just say battery combiner will do it automatically and you might not even notice. Older systems with insulator will require jumper like MrW did as the emergency relay is not 100 percent duty and you can't use it for long time. Regardless generator, battery alone should allow for couple of hr of driving if you turn off unnecessary items. When alternator failed on my Powerstroke, I drove the pickup 140 miles till I found a place with new alternators. Dual batteries still started the engine after alternator replacement.
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