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Topic: Remove box for flat bed...Why not? |
Posted By: tmartin000
on 06/18/16 11:48pm
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I was thinking, I realize that I wouldn't improve carrying capacity, but why not remove my truck bed....and add an aluminum flat bed and have a better more useable surface for camper and boxes for storage? Any thoughts? 2001 Lance 835. SOLD 2009 Lance 1191. SOLD 2021 Lance 1172 |
Posted By: Ski Pro 3
on 06/18/16 11:50pm
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You aren't the first person to consider doing this. I recall reading a few threads of guys who flatbed their pick up truck. Maybe run a search.
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Posted By: Golden_HVAC
on 06/19/16 12:00am
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The flat bed is typically flat, thus no wheelwells, and this causes the flat bed to be higher from the ground than a typical pickup bed. So you would end up with more space between the cab and cabover section, and that will increase the overall height, and wind noise between cab and cabover. Not to mention more steps to get into the camper. Yes you might be able to find a flatbed that actually has wheel wells, and thus can keep the same distance from ground to bottom of the camper. Many pick a toolbox body, that is 19" deep, not the normal mid-window height. These can accommodate both dual rear wheels and SRW designs. It will be a little heavier than a typical pickup bed body. But it will have more toolbox storage than a flatbed could have, and much more storage than the typical storage box between the factory bed and camper bottom. I was reading a story about a couple that had a SRW F-350 and large camper. They wanted to avoid the extra long wheelbase of the crewcab, but wanted more cargo capacity and storage. They ended up buying a extended cab F-450 pickup and having a special toolbox body fabricated for their camper, with the ability to use the camper's inside storage box doors that had been to a space between the camper and pickup box, to access the forward storage box from inside the camper, as well as having a door outside, so they could load supplies that way as well. They stored their bikes in the supercab section, and with the 14,000 GVWR (of that model year) they had more than enough cargo rating. Good luck finding the ideal camper system! Fred. |
Posted By: jimh406
on 06/19/16 12:21am
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Here's a good variation. http://www.truckcampermagazine.com/off-r........s/extreme-boondocking-and-the-tp-factor/
'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops. NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member ![]() |
Posted By: WNYBob
on 06/19/16 05:41am
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Talk to the Australians, they do it all the time.
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Posted By: RoyB
on 06/19/16 06:41am
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I always thought doing this with a flat bed trailer would be great as well...![]() Has all kinds of OFF-ROAD possibilities... Roy Ken My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting Roy - Carolyn RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs) K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M 2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab 2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN 2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS ![]() |
Posted By: Itchey Feet
on 06/19/16 06:48am
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You have about what we have but ours is an 06, have pics. in my profile of what you are talking about. Drop me a pm if you would like more details.
My feet are fine as long as they are traveling. |
Posted By: ticki2
on 06/19/16 07:33am
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tmartin000 wrote: ![]() I was thinking, I realize that I wouldn't improve carrying capacity, but why not remove my truck bed....and add an aluminum flat bed and have a better more useable surface for camper and boxes for storage? Any thoughts? Take a look here http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/17978710.cfm and here http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25259431.cfm Wheel wells are not always an issue on a HD truck . Usually the axle stops prevent the wheels from going above the frame rails . '68 Avion C-11 '02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed |
Posted By: noteven
on 06/19/16 07:57am
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I know why the box sides and tailgate have to be chin high on a NBA player now so your advertising b.s. can say "best in class cargo cubic feet volume mostest biggest..." but anyone know why the rear wheel wells of a pick 'em up truck need to be so big and clumsy? Now that I am running a no squat rear air suspension I'm threatening a flatbed conversion too... 'nother 5 years will have the old truck sorted out... ![]() |
Posted By: Ozlander
on 06/19/16 08:16am
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And next year, they will be nose high.
Ozlander 06 Yukon XL 2001 Trail-Lite 7253 ![]() |
Posted By: drc5900
on 06/19/16 08:46am
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I had the conversion to flatbed done. Went from 8' to 10' bed length (it was an affordable flatbed available in my area). It came out quite a bit higher than I had hoped (about 8 to 9 inches higher): Now I need jack extensions to get the camper on & off the truck, I need to buy taller scissor steps, and when driving I can feel that the weight is higher up and more to the rear, especially going around sharp corners (but with the duallies it's nothing alarming). Also, with the camper 2 feet further to the rear, I am missing the shade over the truck cab on hot days, and I am missing the see-through to what's behind the camper when driving. Fueling up with diesel became somewhat of b*tch, an issue I have seen at other flatbeds. However, I LOVE LOVE LOVE the extra cargo possibilities! I NEVER want to go back to a normal truckbed again. But if&when time and money will allow, I will have the bed shortened to 8' and lowered to standard bed height (if only I had known in advance...). * This post was edited 06/19/16 09:16am by drc5900 * 1997 Dodge Ram Cummins 3500 Dually 5.9L Turbo Diesel, Billeted Goerend Auto Tranny & Triple Disk Torque Converter w/Manual Lockup, 3.5 axle ratio. 1992 Jayco Jay Hunter 950, w/Homemade: tiedowns/dually jack adapters/long hitch, Hott-Rod, 700W inverter. |
Posted By: covered wagon
on 06/19/16 08:53am
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I've had a set up with an aluminum flatbed and side boxes. The boxes fit right under the wings with extra storage but you remove the tie downs to access the tool boxes. Flatbed adds one extra step from being about 4 inches higher. It's a beautiful set up and the tourists got out of their tour bus and took more pics of my truck than the surrounding mountain views. |
Posted By: BigToe
on 06/19/16 11:43am
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In some states, removing the factory pick up body can change the registration status of the truck, which can lead to higher annual fees, weight declaration requirements, stopping at roadside scales, and other potential vulnerabilities if a highway patrol officer really wants to hassle you. Specifically, in California, once the factory pickup bed is removed and a flatbed installed instead, the truck now legally is required to stop at scales, as it is no longer a "pick up". This is not practically enforced, but it is legally enforceable. California actually has set forth a statutory definition of "pick up", and ever since the Commercial Vehicle Registration Act of 2001, trucks that are not "pick ups" have to have declared, in advance, the maximum weight that will be borne and towed by the truck, and pay fees according to that declaration. Should a CHP pull a flat bed truck over for not stopping at the scales, and should the CHP decide to weigh the truck and the weight of the truck, camper, and trailer exceeds the amount that was previously declared, then the fine is the maximum fees that would be levied on an 18 wheeler semi declaring 80,000 lbs. Pickups, on the other hand, do not have to anticipate what weight they will carry. An owner of a pickup can decide one day to pull a 9,999 lb trailer, while having a 5,000 lb BigFoot 3000 in the bed, and not have to have paid fees for 22K gross combined like a flat bed truck owner would have had to do in order to operate legally in that configuration. Keep in mind, these rules apply irrespective of the door plate rating of the underlying truck chassis, and irrespective of the fact that the chassis could very well be the exact same. The rules apply to merely the characteristic of the bed. And that is one reason why some California light truck owners keep the pickup bed installed, even when aluminum flat beds with underslung tool boxes offer more common sense convenience and practical utility. |
Posted By: tmartin000
on 06/19/16 11:46am
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BigToe wrote: ![]() In some states, removing the factory pick up body can change the registration status of the truck, which can lead to higher annual fees, weight declaration requirements, stopping at roadside scales, and other potential vulnerabilities if a highway patrol officer really wants to hassle you. Specifically, in California, once the factory pickup bed is removed and a flatbed installed instead, the truck now legally is required to stop at scales, as it is no longer a "pick up". This is not practically enforced, but it is legally enforceable. California actually has set forth a statutory definition of "pick up", and ever since the Commercial Vehicle Registration Act of 2001, trucks that are not "pick ups" have to have declared, in advance, the maximum weight that will be borne and towed by the truck, and pay fees according to that declaration. Should a CHP pull a flat bed truck over for not stopping at the scales, and should the CHP decide to weigh the truck and the weight of the truck, camper, and trailer exceeds the amount that was previously declared, then the fine is the maximum fees that would be levied on an 18 wheeler semi declaring 80,000 lbs. Pickups, on the other hand, do not have to anticipate what weight they will carry. An owner of a pickup can decide one day to pull a 9,999 lb trailer, while having a 5,000 lb BigFoot 3000 in the bed, and not have to have paid fees for 22K gross combined like a flat bed truck owner would have had to do in order to operate legally in that configuration. Keep in mind, these rules apply irrespective of the door plate rating of the underlying truck chassis, and irrespective of the fact that the chassis could very well be the exact same. The rules apply to merely the characteristic of the bed. And that is one reason why some California light truck owners keep the pickup bed installed, even when aluminum flat beds with underslung tool boxes offer more common sense convenience and practical utility. Don't really care since I don't live in California. With Oregon plates, they'll probably wave as I drive by. ![]() |
Posted By: SoCalDesertRider
on 06/19/16 12:00pm
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Flatbed it! ![]() You don't have to put the bed way up high, if you have a 4wd and heavy duty springs, with stock or near stock diameter tires. The tire won't reach the height of the wheel wells in the pickup box anyways, so you can set your flatbed deck about half way between the normal pickup bed floor height and the wheel well height. Leave out the outrigger cross member right above the tires and either notch the outboard side rails above the wheels, or make the bed wide enough that the tires' upward travel is within the bed width. The tire won't touch the bottom of the deck and will miss the channel sides. 01 International 4800 4x4 CrewCab DT466E Allison MD3060 69Bronco 86Samurai 85ATC250R 89CR500 98Ranger 96Tacoma 20' BigTex flatbed 8' truck camper, 14' Aristocrat TT 73 Kona 17' ski boat & Mercury 1150TB 92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6 285 BFG AT 4.56 & LockRite rear |
Posted By: covered wagon
on 06/19/16 01:44pm
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SoCalDesertRider wrote: ![]() Flatbed it! ![]() You don't have to put the bed way up high, if you have a 4wd and heavy duty springs, with stock or near stock diameter tires. The tire won't reach the height of the wheel wells in the pickup box anyways, so you can set your flatbed deck about half way between the normal pickup bed floor height and the wheel well height. Leave out the outrigger cross member right above the tires and either notch the outboard side rails above the wheels, or make the bed wide enough that the tires' upward travel is within the bed width. The tire won't touch the bottom of the deck and will miss the channel sides. Stronger framed aluminum flatbed beds have cross framing that sit on top of the chassi and is higher due to the higher/ taller bed framing required for strength. Steel flatbeds may have lower heights due to it's inherent strength. I don't know about steel flatbeds. Where as an oem bed has a much lower profile frame sitting on top. My pro Tech flatbed is about 4 inches higher from oem. Best thing about aluminum flatbeds is the finish can be renewed by using steel wool and elbow grease. They are nice and the price of aluminum will maintain at least a base value after many years of use. Oh yes, the fuel fill is lower down so it's sometimes more difficult to fill with fuel because a lot of them tend to shut the nozzle off frequently. I solved that a couple ways if any are interested I can explain. |
Posted By: tmartin000
on 06/19/16 02:12pm
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I live near the ocean, aluminum is the only material I will consider.
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Posted By: drc5900
on 06/19/16 02:17pm
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covered wagon wrote: ![]() Oh yes, the fuel fill is lower down so it's sometimes more difficult to fill with fuel because a lot of them tend to shut the nozzle off frequently. I solved that a couple ways if any are interested I can explain. I am interested to learn how you solved that. Kindly please explain! |
Posted By: SoCalDesertRider
on 06/19/16 02:37pm
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tmartin000 wrote: I'm a skilled aluminum welder and fabricator and like to work with aluminum, however, galvanized steel works just as well or better in coastal environments and is alot less expensive to build with than aluminum and doesn't have the cracking problems of aluminum when used in a structure that is subject to loading, twisting and vibration.
![]() I live near the ocean, aluminum is the only material I will consider. |
Posted By: SoCalDesertRider
on 06/19/16 02:40pm
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My flatbed F350 had the filler necks come through holes in the flatbed sill channels, then were frenched into the side rails at a 45* angle, but they still spit fuel out when filling sometimes.
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Posted By: joerg68
on 06/19/16 03:39pm
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These are quite popular over here (link in english): http://www.bimobil.com/en/modelle/pickups/ The one huge advantage is that you can have a lot more floorspace. 2014 Ford F350 XLT 6.2 SCLB + 2017 Northstar Arrow ![]() |
Posted By: free radical
on 06/19/16 07:33pm
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06Fargo wrote: ![]() I know why the box sides and tailgate have to be chin high on a NBA player now so your advertising b.s. can say "best in class cargo cubic feet volume mostest biggest..." but anyone know why the rear wheel wells of a pick 'em up truck need to be so big and clumsy? ) Probably bc the morons who designed these trucks never own or use one for its intended purpose,,ie loading and carrying stuff.. Im also totaly annoyed how high my 2 wd 1/2 ton sits,,even with heavy load on,,4x4 I would understand but 2 wd no one ever goes off roading in some deep mud..my previous 2000 sierra was just perfect stance nice and low,made for good handling in corners too.. why did GM ever change it to these high boxy trucks is a mystery.. |
Posted By: tmartin000
on 06/19/16 08:00pm
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SoCalDesertRider wrote: ![]() tmartin000 wrote: I'm a skilled aluminum welder and fabricator and like to work with aluminum, however, galvanized steel works just as well or better in coastal environments and is alot less expensive to build with than aluminum and doesn't have the cracking problems of aluminum when used in a structure that is subject to loading, twisting and vibration.![]() I live near the ocean, aluminum is the only material I will consider. Thank you for that. So, if it's galvanized, I should be good? Looking online for aluminum truck beds revealed some gorgeous boxes. I just figured that I wanted aluminum. |
Posted By: SoCalDesertRider
on 06/19/16 09:12pm
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Those aluminum beds are indeed very nice looking. Yes, galvanized steel is quite durable. |
Posted By: Fastbrit
on 06/20/16 04:58am
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Just made the switch for an aluminum f\b. Much stronger than the original bed and offer a stable platform for the t\c. when looking at the original bed in the mirror it was rocking from front to back a lot. Now it is solid as a rock. Way easier to put the camper on only from the side mirrors. My original bed collapse 1\4 to 1\2 inch at the tailgate. The t\c sits only 2 inches higher than before. The original beds of any brand of truck are not conceived to carry a double or triple slide t\c JMHO ![]() * This post was edited 06/20/16 05:11am by Fastbrit * 1997 Dodge Ram 3500 CTD. Timbrens all around, Bilstein shocks. 2014 Chalet TS116 ![]() |
Posted By: tmartin000
on 06/20/16 05:22am
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Fastbrit, That's what I'm talking about. Can you share some numbers for your setup? Honestly, I have no idea where to begin. |
Posted By: Fastbrit
on 06/20/16 06:42am
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The f\b is 96"x106" with extrude plank flooring (the strongest material for f\b in aluminum) 2x 24"x18" Buyers tool box steps with grab handles No stake pockets or rub rail. the bed is really 96"x106" the same width as camper witch makes it a lot easier to put the camper on cost under$3000 Manufacture by Martin truck body see mud guard on picture for more details ![]() |
Posted By: covered wagon
on 06/20/16 08:08am
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drc5900 wrote: ![]() covered wagon wrote: ![]() Oh yes, the fuel fill is lower down so it's sometimes more difficult to fill with fuel because a lot of them tend to shut the nozzle off frequently. I solved that a couple ways if any are interested I can explain. I am interested to learn how you solved that. Kindly please explain! Pro Tech used the oem filler neck which most have an anti siphon hose blocker down the end of the pipe. Pull the fill neck/pipe and cut out the anti siphon hose blocker. Fuel will flow much better into the tank. The other thing you can do is throw a block of wood down to drive over and tilt the bed a little bit, but, I've never had to do that. I must say one last word about Aluminum... Pro Tech has the most beautiful designs and does not weld key areas but are riveted very strong. I've had my Pro Tech bed for almost 20 years and no problems. Everytime I go in there for new weather stripping to be put on the saddle tool boxes or new locks cause they wore out, they will not let me pay them. They are good people and are the most successful in the industry. They do the fire trucks and ambulances. |
Posted By: Bedlam
on 06/20/16 09:55am
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I considered a flatbed conversion on F250, but felt it tempted me to just overload an already heavily loaded setup even if I could get some weight savings removing the OEM bed. When I was shopping for my flat bed for my chassis cab, I could not find manufacturer that had a stock aluminum bed that could tie down a 3-ton TC (since I want a triple slide model). There were ones that could customize a bed, but estimates were twice as much as Fastbrit's. Most of the worries were about the anchor points and flex they would create rather than the weight on the bed. I went with a low sill steel bed and was able to get the lower storage boxes, 30K gooseneck and 30K SuperHitch all for less than I was quoted for a custom aluminum bed. Comparing overall height is little bit apples to oranges since I went from a from a Ford F250 4wd pickup to a Ram 5500 4wd chassis cab, but I had to add two steps to my scissor setup when using the same TC. Chevy Sonic 1.8-Honda Passport C70B-Host Mammoth 11.5-Interstate Car Carrier 20-Joyner SandViper 250-Kawasaki Concours ZG1000-Paros 8' flatbed-Pelican Decker DLX 8.75-Ram 5500 HD ![]() |
Posted By: Fastbrit
on 06/20/16 11:48am
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Bedlam rote " When I was shopping for my flat bed for my chassis cab, I could not find manufacturer that had a stock aluminum bed that could tie down a 3-ton TC (since I want a triple slide model)." True... I was advised by Martin's truck body to not attach the t\c to f\b, but to the frame of the truck only. F\b is designed to take downward force not the opposite way. To accommodate that I add to change the location of front tie down. The fastguns are now attached to front jack brackets. ![]() ![]() ![]() Bedlam rote "Comparing overall height is little bit apples to oranges since I went from a from a Ford F250 4wd pickup to a Ram 5500 4wd chassis cab, but I had to add two steps to my scissor setup when using the same TC." Never understood why Chalet only put 3 steps on a above the bed rail camper!! So we made the change for 4 steps at the same time we bought the f\b that is 2 inches taller than the reg bed ![]() |
Posted By: 2BLAZERS
on 06/20/16 12:00pm
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tmartin000 wrote: ![]() BigToe wrote: ![]() In some states, removing the factory pick up body can change the registration status of the truck, which can lead to higher annual fees, weight declaration requirements, stopping at roadside scales, and other potential vulnerabilities if a highway patrol officer really wants to hassle you. Specifically, in California, once the factory pickup bed is removed and a flatbed installed instead, the truck now legally is required to stop at scales, as it is no longer a "pick up". This is not practically enforced, but it is legally enforceable. California actually has set forth a statutory definition of "pick up", and ever since the Commercial Vehicle Registration Act of 2001, trucks that are not "pick ups" have to have declared, in advance, the maximum weight that will be borne and towed by the truck, and pay fees according to that declaration. Should a CHP pull a flat bed truck over for not stopping at the scales, and should the CHP decide to weigh the truck and the weight of the truck, camper, and trailer exceeds the amount that was previously declared, then the fine is the maximum fees that would be levied on an 18 wheeler semi declaring 80,000 lbs. Pickups, on the other hand, do not have to anticipate what weight they will carry. An owner of a pickup can decide one day to pull a 9,999 lb trailer, while having a 5,000 lb BigFoot 3000 in the bed, and not have to have paid fees for 22K gross combined like a flat bed truck owner would have had to do in order to operate legally in that configuration. Keep in mind, these rules apply irrespective of the door plate rating of the underlying truck chassis, and irrespective of the fact that the chassis could very well be the exact same. The rules apply to merely the characteristic of the bed. And that is one reason why some California light truck owners keep the pickup bed installed, even when aluminum flat beds with underslung tool boxes offer more common sense convenience and practical utility. Don't really care since I don't live in California. With Oregon plates, they'll probably wave as I drive by. ![]() But us Oregonians get stuck with stupid rules about T-plates and heavy ''non-RV'' trailers. So my 10k rated Enclosed Trailer is a pain in Oregon. Oregon considers any ''non-RV'' trailer rated over 8K a ''heavy'' trailer subject to T plate rules and weight registration and yearly fee. And yes the TC is included in the weight I register for. * This post was edited 06/20/16 12:23pm by 2BLAZERS * 2016 Dodge Ram 3500 CC Dually Cummins,Aisin,Laramie,4*4,4.10,14K 2017 Stealth WA2916 Toyhauler 2011 Arctic Fox 1150 Drybath 2017 Polaris 1000 XP Sportsman 2009 Polaris RZR w/fun parts 2014 Polaris 850 HO Scrambler 1977 K5 Blazer 1ton'd 2005 Pace Enclosed Toybox |
Posted By: Bedlam
on 06/20/16 12:14pm
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Torklift now has the GlowStep Revolution for trailers and side door TC's. When I get my triple, I will converting my GlowSteps with the Revolution mounting hardware. My buddy's Mammoth on a F350 even needs an additional foot stool step to get in, so the problem is not limited to your Chalet. WA also looks at enclosed trailers over 10K lbs as commercial. They downgrade the rating on the trailers going to the state to save the buyer. Once you get to the large triple axle models, you're on the hook for commercial unless you add enough living quarters to call it an RV (you then get an exemption to the weight limit). My trailer is running dual 5200 lb torsion axles with newly upgraded 2805 lb rated tires and rims, but is still tagged under the 10K lb limit. |
Posted By: 2BLAZERS
on 06/20/16 12:26pm
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I totally would go flat bed if you are not pushing the rear axle weight limits, tire limits or vehicle GVW limits. As flatbed usually means boxes for more stuff. For me I choose a regular pickup box as I daily drive my dually to work and everything still. If money was unlimited I'd do a Ram 5500 flatbed in a heartbeat for camper hauling. And drive a SRW daily. But $$$ |
Posted By: SoCalDesertRider
on 06/20/16 03:25pm
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California is very easy on trailers. My trailers were about $25 to register with permanent plates, which need to be renewed every 5 years for $10. I guess they're not really permanent, LOL. Arizona is much harder on trailers. The same 2 trailers are $129 each to register with permanent plates. Permanent plates are truly permanent in AZ though.. |
Posted By: SoCalDesertRider
on 06/20/16 03:34pm
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California is hell on cab/chassis trucks. I had 2 F350's in California, one 92 4wd crew cab single rear wheel pickup and one 97 4wd regular cab dually flatbed. The pickup was $250/yr to register. The F350 flatbed was $750/yr to register and I had to display my state weight sticker and stop at all scales. I tried to take my F350 pickup through a state scale once, they got mad and told me to leave and don't come back. LOL Then I brought both trucks to Arizona and registered them here when I moved here. The flatbed truck was $250/yr to register and the pickup is $65/yr to register. Neither of them had to display any weight stickers. The flatbed had to go through the scales, but the only scales we have here are at the state borders. California has scales all throughout the interior of the state, as well as at all the border crossings. |
Posted By: arto_wa
on 06/21/16 08:11am
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joerg68 wrote: ![]() These are quite popular over here (link in english): http://www.bimobil.com/en/modelle/pickups/ The one huge advantage is that you can have a lot more floorspace. Thanks for the link - interesting looking models. It looks like these designs are non removable, similar to Class C motorhomes here but built on European or Japanese pickup or van cab chassis. I agree about the large floorspace, but the camper portion cannot be removed or the truck used for hauling other loads. 1974 Dodge pickup: ![]() 99 F350 4x4 CC DRW 7.3L PSD, 97 Bigfoot 2500 10.6 (11,900#) 89 Duckworth 17' Pro 302 ![]() |
Posted By: RobertRyan
on 06/21/16 11:44pm
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arto_wa wrote: ![]() joerg68 wrote: ![]() These are quite popular over here (link in english): http://www.bimobil.com/en/modelle/pickups/ The one huge advantage is that you can have a lot more floorspace. Thanks for the link - interesting looking models. It looks like these designs are non removable, similar to Class C motorhomes here but built on European or Japanese pickup or van cab chassis. I agree about the large floorspace, but the camper portion cannot be removed or the truck used for hauling other loads. 1974 Dodge pickup: ![]() Of course very popular in Australia, where even F250/F350's are converted to flat beds. Phoenix Campers in the US has a new Flatbed model Phoenix Campers Flatbed ![]() Local Australian Flatbed ![]() * This post was last edited 06/22/16 12:26am by RobertRyan * |
Posted By: joerg68
on 06/22/16 07:16am
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Quote: ![]() It looks like these designs are non removable, Oh, they are: http://www.bimobil.com/en/bimobil-system/pickup-system/ But since they do not sit in the truck bed, they look like they are not ;-) |
Posted By: ticki2
on 06/22/16 09:02am
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If I am reading correctly they are demountable and interchangeable with a truck bed with their system . Pretty slick .
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