So they didn't have the black so I'll have to have it powder coated.
* This post was edited 02/11/15 09:01am by BoonHauler *
05 RAM 3500 CTD 4x4 Q/C Laramie DRW/NV5600/3.73, B&W Gooseneck, MaxBrake, PacBrake PRXB, Brite Box Fogster, BD steering Box Brace
2014 BoonHauler 3614
kereams wrote:
Sounds serious! Is the winch mounted all the way back? Looks like the cable would get in the way but hard to tell with the angle.
Sounds serious! Is the winch mounted all the way back? Looks like the cable would get in the way but hard to tell with the angle.
No, the winch is mounted near the door. We mounted it far enough back to allow some of the Y harness to pull in but close enough to the door that the cable doesn't bother anything. I made sure I could clear my 6'7" top of head also (by about 2 inches).
It could also be used to pull a disabled toy up the ramp, at least up to the edge. We could place a snatch block on the back wall of the garage pod to pull it in the rest of the way with the same winch.
The rack started as a aluminum Hauler II truck rack for our Tundra which we never got around to installing. It was long enough on the sides but the cross beams were not nearly wide enough (our garage pod is 8'4" like our camper pod). 8020 to the rescue. After cutting about 3/4" off of some standard 97" 8020 aluminum t-slot (2010 series 2"x1") we installed them as cross beams. We added 2"x6" 3/4" thick rubber blocks in three places attached to the 8020 beams to provide extra support from the roof but prevent damage. We machined side brackets that bolt into the steel frame of the garage pod from the side thus keeping to our mantra that a roof should not have any holes.
It is a pretty neat setup. The 8020 T-slots will allow us to put holders anywhere along the beams for different size items (canoe, kayak, aunt Edna) and the 8 foot wide by 10 foot long rack area is fairly large for a truck camper. The garage pod sits a foot shorter than the living pod (which is covered in 1080 watts of solar panels) and thus the items placed on the rack will not cause the overall height of our rig to increase by much if any.
We are not happy with the single cheap winch solution so we are going to go with twin Superwinch Terra 3500 pound models. This is a much better built and much quieter winch. We will pull on the door from each side using the Amsteel winch cable which means you don't have to unhook a Y-harness to drive a motorcycle up the ramp. They can still be unhooked when you want to use the ramp as a porch or work table. We are going to wire the two winch motors in series which will force them to equally share the load of the door (as one winch loads down it's back emf will increase, which diverts power to the other winch which will speed up). They will not have as much power running in series and will be slower but these winches are rated at 25fpm zero load and the cheap winch was 13fpm zero load (and was plenty fast). It will be a safer solution as either winch and cable can support the door on it's own if the other brake or cable fails.
Anyway, here are the pics of the roof rack test fit:
![[image]](http://i1051.photobucket.com/albums/s435/IGBT/roofrack1.jpg)
![[image]](http://i1051.photobucket.com/albums/s435/IGBT/roofrack2.jpg)
b
bka0721 wrote:
But, be aware, in most states Approved Head Protection (helmet) is required and in all states, eye protection is required.
But, be aware, in most states Approved Head Protection (helmet) is required and in all states, eye protection is required.
What the what? Huh?
*2011 F350 SRW CC/LB/PSD - Mods: Custom overload springs with custom early engagement blocks~Firestone Airbags~Hellwig Big Wig Rear Sway~Rancho RS9000XL~Bilstein Steering Damper~19.5" Hankook DH01'a on steel wheels.
*2012 Chalet Ascent S95R Camper
kereams wrote:
What the what? Huh?
Sorry you missed it. I really enjoy the updates and marvel over the pictures, including the view of the shop. But I do look at more than just the pictures. I read the narrative too. Sometimes it appears that there is an Easter Egg within. Some see it, some don't and maybe like me just interprets something that is not actually there. Now it's up to others if they find; Waldo, too.bka0721 wrote:
But, be aware, in most states Approved Head Protection (helmet) is required and in all states, eye protection is required.
But, be aware, in most states Approved Head Protection (helmet) is required and in all states, eye protection is required.
What the what? Huh?
b
Chevy Sonic 1.8-Honda Passport C70B-Host Mammoth 11.5-Interstate Car Carrier 20-Joyner SandViper 250-Kawasaki Concours ZG1000-Paros 8' flatbed-Pelican Decker DLX 8.75-Ram 5500 HD
2005 Lance 1161, 2004 Dodge CTD 3500 Dually 19.5's Stabiloads Roadmaster Sway, 2009 20' Raider 185 Pro Fish 90hp & 9.9 Yamaha vintage Penn elec.downriggers EZLoad roller trailer
The series wiring worked a treat when raising the door. If one side was slack it quickly catches up as the other motor slows because power is diverted. The door comes up exactly equal on both sides.
Lowering the door is not quite what I expected (but should have). Sometimes one motor will spin a little faster and the other cable will go slack. Not every time, but sometimes. I believe this is because the motors have no load on them when lowering the door. They don't run away and drop the door but one cable holds the weight of the door for awhile while the other unwinds faster. I am not quite sure how to fix this or if I should bother fixing it at all.
It looks a lot nicer and the cables are out of the way. It should be safer because of the redundancy in cable and brake.
![[image]](http://i1051.photobucket.com/albums/s435/IGBT/newwinch1.jpg)
![[image]](http://i1051.photobucket.com/albums/s435/IGBT/newwinch2.jpg)