Capt Eddie wrote:
Can I ask what is used to stop the side to side movement of the camper. It appears to be the tiedown tabs. The truck tiedown loops appear to be sticking out from the side of the bed. Could they be hit in that location? I am not criticizing the build, I love it. Just getting your idea on how you solved the problem.
Can I ask what is used to stop the side to side movement of the camper. It appears to be the tiedown tabs. The truck tiedown loops appear to be sticking out from the side of the bed. Could they be hit in that location? I am not criticizing the build, I love it. Just getting your idea on how you solved the problem.
Good question. The tiedown tabs do stick 2 inches below the camper and could technically stop the side to side movement by hitting against the flatbed. They are 1/4" thick welded steel L beam.
I have them pulling the camper down to the flatbed via torklift spring mounts fairly snug. The camper rests on a 1/4" thick rubber matt. We put a camera on the mount system and did not notice any movement at all of the mount system but we have only been on paved roads so far.
I don't know yet that there is a problem to solve but I have some ideas, including plates attached to the flatbed that come up around the camper a few inches on each side.
I built a rear door ramp for our 10,500 lb capacity car hauler/implement trailer back around 2001 I had that the trailer deck was 44" off the ground. I made a knuckle joint cable armsystem going from 6' high reinforced 2" X 2" X 1/4" wall square steel tubes slipped into 2-1/2" square welded on receivers roughly 1' from the rear of the trailer. The removable posts were anchored forward by removable steel cables going approx 8' forward to the trailers side rails welded on clevis. The knuckle was closer to full extension (open) when the ramp was on the ground leaving about 8" additional lowering for ground that was lower than the trailer's wheels. It would pull up (raise) the ramp to level or even up to the vertical position or any position by pulling on the knuckle joint with a cable on each side to a pulley yoke which was attached (driven) by a 12V 12,000 lb capacity electric purchased barrel winch that I already had. The whole cable system could have been a pulley/cable system also but I wanted the mechanical advantage that a knuckle joint gives.
The entire system was secured to the trailer using 1/2" and 5/8" hitch pins so if I wanted to remove any item it was simply pull the keeper clip and then pull the hitch pin. A couple seconds max!
The heaviest item I'd lifted with the ramp was a 5700 lb tractor with a front bucket that a friend bought cheap from a farmer down near Indianapolis which had a broken axle and couldn't be run. The farmer pushed it onto the ramp with his Bobcat but couldn't get it up onto the trailer bed. My ramp lifted it without any problem and then higher with a downward angle and a 2 ton comealong slid it right onto the bed so we could haul it the ~250 miles back here. Cabled it to a tree in his backyard with the ramp down and drove the trailer out from under it so he could repair the tractor. Worked really slick!
Just some food for thought as a possibility. I don't have any drawings of it as I built it by using my engineering knowledge and experience. Lots of combinations are possible also and as you have CAD, it will be easy for you.
A superb CC LB 4X4, GM HD Diesel, airbags, Rancho's, lots more
Lance Legend TC 11' 4", loaded including 3400 PP generator and my deluxe 2' X 7' rear porch
29 ft Carriage Carri-lite 5'er - a specially built gem
A like new '07 Sunline Solaris 26' TT
Jfet wrote:
Furnace! It has been 90 degrees during the day and 70 degrees at night.
Based on how well this thing is insulated, I think the near 20,000 BTU furnace will be overkill if anything. The tiny 500 watt AC certainly manages to keep the inside 25 degrees below the outside.
This fall we will know more about the furnace as sometimes it dips into the 20s during October.
BoonHauler wrote:
I'm curious to hear how the furnace is working out for you? .......and wondering if you used the 1000 btu a foot method of sizing?
With as efficient of an envelope that you have I'd have to think that rule of thumb just wouldn't be very accurate. That's for tent trailers and alike.
I'm curious to hear how the furnace is working out for you? .......and wondering if you used the 1000 btu a foot method of sizing?
With as efficient of an envelope that you have I'd have to think that rule of thumb just wouldn't be very accurate. That's for tent trailers and alike.
Furnace! It has been 90 degrees during the day and 70 degrees at night.
Based on how well this thing is insulated, I think the near 20,000 BTU furnace will be overkill if anything. The tiny 500 watt AC certainly manages to keep the inside 25 degrees below the outside.
This fall we will know more about the furnace as sometimes it dips into the 20s during October.
I'll stay tuned......just wondering why you chose the 18k.
05 RAM 3500 CTD 4x4 Q/C Laramie DRW/NV5600/3.73, B&W Gooseneck, MaxBrake, PacBrake PRXB, Brite Box Fogster, BD steering Box Brace
2014 BoonHauler 3614
These boxes have added a vast amount of storage with a very low CoG. We made some prototype plywood holders for the four camper jacks to allow them to stow in one of the boxes without getting banged up. I will remake them on my cnc mill out of 3/4" UHMW plastic at some near future date. Still quite a bit of room above the jackstands in that box for other gear (they take up about 6 inches of the 18 inch height.
![[image]](http://i1051.photobucket.com/albums/s435/IGBT/truckboxes1.jpg)
![[image]](http://i1051.photobucket.com/albums/s435/IGBT/truckboxes2.jpg)
*2011 F350 SRW CC/LB/PSD - Mods: Custom overload springs with custom early engagement blocks~Firestone Airbags~Hellwig Big Wig Rear Sway~Rancho RS9000XL~Bilstein Steering Damper~19.5" Hankook DH01'a on steel wheels.
*2012 Chalet Ascent S95R Camper
'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.
NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member
kereams wrote:
Looks great! From the pictures it looks like it really killed your ground clearance though. Curious your experiences regarding clearance as you get time on it.
Looks great! From the pictures it looks like it really killed your ground clearance though. Curious your experiences regarding clearance as you get time on it.
Well, we decided a 19,000 pound vehicle pulling a sailboat wasn't going to be doing a lot of jeep road rock climbing.
The ground clearance isn't as bad as it looks in the photo. The boxes are 2 inches higher than the muffler and at least 4 inches higher than the rear diff. The exit angle wasn't affected much either by the rear boxes since we have that safety bar (plus plan to add a trailer hitch back there).
Jfet wrote:
Well, we decided a 19,000 pound vehicle pulling a sailboat wasn't going to be doing a lot of jeep road rock climbing.
The ground clearance isn't as bad as it looks in the photo. The boxes are 2 inches higher than the muffler and at least 4 inches higher than the rear diff. The exit angle wasn't affected much either by the rear boxes since we have that safety bar (plus plan to add a trailer hitch back there).
As always, never enough pictures on your project. Enjoy the progress.Well, we decided a 19,000 pound vehicle pulling a sailboat wasn't going to be doing a lot of jeep road rock climbing.
The ground clearance isn't as bad as it looks in the photo. The boxes are 2 inches higher than the muffler and at least 4 inches higher than the rear diff. The exit angle wasn't affected much either by the rear boxes since we have that safety bar (plus plan to add a trailer hitch back there).
I agree with the possibility of off-roading. But I would take note the bend in the right end of your safety bar. Those don’t bend like that with just a onetime occurrence. Obviously there is some contact and most likely exiting out of drives, such as fueling stations. We use to put skid bars/wheels on the outside corner of our race trailers, due to the long extension behind the rear axle. I suspect a well-placed skid bar, or wheel, placed next to the back corner of the cabinet will save them from damage. (Like a picture frame around the opening of the cabinet).
From the photo, it appears you only put photos on the one side. Are you planning on putting a matching set on the opposite side?
Thanks.
b
We did put boxes on the other side but there is a missing tooth where we needed a slightly different type of box for the propane storage (and generator storage). I will custom make that box. We plan to have it hold the EU2000i plus 4 standard propane cylinders (for easy exchange when there are no fillup locations).
jimh425 wrote:
Interesting jack holder. I suppose you add a strap to hold them down. Some closed cell foam might be a good addition for the rest.
Interesting jack holder. I suppose you add a strap to hold them down. Some closed cell foam might be a good addition for the rest.
Thanks, yes, exactly, a strap to hold them down. I do have some foam on each end and expanded the jacks to contact the foam and keep them from sliding back and forth in the slots (wife's idea).