Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

Topic: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

Posted By: quasimatter on 02/14/21 09:20pm

TwistedGray wrote:

Vehicle: (2015) 2017 Majestic 19G

Problem: The coach battery only powers the 120v outlets when the RV is connected to shore power or when/if the generator is running.

Question: Does anyone know what would have to be done to have it so that I can utilize the coach's battery without being plugged in or having the generator running? If someone has a wiring diagram for this model, that would be great.

I am looking into adding a secondary battery bank; however, based on our power requirements I think I could get away with just tapping into the coach's battery for outlet power and recharging the battery when in motion (or using the generator). I do not need constant power from the coach battery, but I would like to tap into it without having to dump $500-750 in battery gear (or running the generator).

I have connected three 12V (cigarette lighter) outlets along with USB outlets in my 28a - you can plug in any inventor into those and as long as you do not exceed the wattage (try not to run too much from it - max limit is 120W of a standard 12V lighter outlet); you will have 120V outlet. I would use it only for things like charging computer or low wattage devices.

Here is the link to 12V outlet I bought
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DTCQKDB

You can splice into any LED light cable and in fact install this right next to it. I put one each over the dinette seat and one over the back bed. Used it with 12V heater blankets (~36W) and they worked perfect (no need to heat up the entire camper all night). (For those curious - I bought these blankets - https://www.bestbuy.com/site/stalwart-el........lack-white-plaid/6425651.p?skuId=6425651)

Here is an example or inverter (no idea how good it is - I just did a search on Amazon - but there are many you can choose from on Amazon or any other store.

https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Inverter-Converter-Adapter-Thinner/dp/B07DVXNSDH

Now if you want to run the microwave - you would need a massive battery and a direct battery connected inverter. [emoticon]

* This post was edited 02/14/21 09:28pm by quasimatter *

Posted By: quasimatter on 02/14/21 09:24pm

Trying to replace standard AGM battery (which is dead) with LiFePO4 battery on my CA Majestic 28A.

Anyone know the location of alternator diode/solenoid so I can simply disconnect it (or put in a current limiter or a switch)???

* This post was edited 02/14/21 09:53pm by quasimatter *

Posted By: ronfisherman on 02/15/21 04:07am

cencerrita wrote:

Finding it frustrating that I can not post a small size photo from my computer [emoticon]

If you use this link to help posting pictures. You should have no problems posting pictures.

2004 Gulf Stream Endura 6340 D/A SOLD
2012 Chevy Captiva Toad SOLD

Posted By: eldel on 02/15/21 11:12am

quasimatter wrote:

I looked at this and heard from multiple people (who I'm sure know more than I) to put a proper charge controller in. The LiFePO4s are expensive things to blow up by overcharging. I looked at it some more and decided to get the local shop to put one in as part of a solar install.

Posted By: quasimatter on 02/16/21 11:55am

eldel wrote:

quasimatter wrote:

I have a solar charge controller installed already. But this it seems requires a DC-DC charge controller (another $200 or so). Just wondering if I can simply disconnect alternator to house battery charging mechanism for now.

Posted By: eldel on 02/16/21 12:57pm

quasimatter wrote:

I suspect (and I use that word carefully) that as long as the solar panels are the only power source and the controller is calibrated to the optimum late charge rates then you might be OK. But really - you're spending $1K on a battery and risking it. If the overall cost is too high why not just replace it with a traditional item. They're about 20% of the cost (or less on occasion) and you don't have to alter anything else.

I'm doing mine to increase the storage capacity 3x and leaving headroom in the system for more - but that's because we're intending to spend more time either boondocking or on basic state park sites and we don't want to run the generator. If it's just a like-for-like function I'm not sure I'd spend the extra.

Posted By: wandajo123 on 02/16/21 02:41pm

I'm contemplating buying a Cruise America 23A Thor Majestic. Is the pricing pretty firm to the price listed on their website or did anyone on this form negotiate a better price with them? I see they are baseing their pricing on mileage mostly. Thanks!

Posted By: TwistedGray on 02/16/21 05:04pm

IAMICHABOD wrote:

The only thing I could find is when you asked before and fadumpt answered

Yeah, I do remember that...thanks. I forgot who responded!

The issue that I've unearthed is that I do not have the power/ground access that they have. They noted, "There is a power block and ground block in that space and we tapped in to that."

In the 19G, the only electrical under the seat that is accessible is for the water pump, I believe, and the Co2 detector. I don't have main power/ground access.

Posted By: TwistedGray on 02/16/21 05:07pm

wandajo123 wrote:

Yes, their prices are mileage based, and no, there is no wiggle room in the prices.

Posted By: TwistedGray on 02/16/21 05:09pm

cencerrita wrote:

TwistedGray wrote:

Hi
Finding it frustrating that I can not post a small size photo from my computer [emoticon]

1.Ok the cheapeast and easiet way is to buy an inverter. We brought a full sine wave 1000w inverter which was bigger than the power we intended to want, so as not to overload.
2. Fitted just above the main battery locker and used 2 cables the same size as the main battery cables to join battery to invertor. This required 2 drill holes in the floor.
3.Hole cut out in the panel next to the invertor for direct access to 110V and 12V oulet socket on inverter. The inverter had 2 x 110V socket.
4. As required we plugged into these outlets, including a short extension lead sometimes.
5. This means the system is totally seperate from your house 110V sockets and you never have to worry about the 2 systems shorting out.

We ran no problem from this using laptop, fans, keybpoard, charging phones etc whilst boondocking. Even at Lake Mead for 14 days in 100F in the summer.

USB sockets
1.Buy ones with 2.1A and 1A outlet on them (Amazon/ebay). make sure they have a mounting back plate as wellUSB socket
2. Remove a 12v light and pull through existing 12v light cable.
3.Join cables to this and then to the usb outlets you fit, having fed the cables back up the light hole to your USB outlet position.
4. Refit light.
5. Suggest also fitting on/off switch next to usb if they have a blue power LED light with them. This stops the glow at night and the small power consumption when in storage.
you will find lots of info in the Owners Essential RV Handbook on Amazon

This is VERY helpful, and if you have photos you can share of you documenting the process and/or photos after the fact (like now) showing where things are that would be great.

I have an electrician friend coming up next week to do some house work, and I've been talking with him about "fixing" this issue with the RV.

Feel free to email me at skionic at yahoo dot com