I run the Andersen hitch and really like it, but my TT is fairly lite at only 6500lbs and a tongue weight nearing 700lbs right now. And with 1/4" compression of the bushings I am able to get the front end back to within 1/8 inch of its empty height and the rear to about 1/4" lower than empty:
(all measurements taken at wheel well openings)
truck empty-- front 40 1/8", rear 40 1/4"
camper hooked no WD-- front 40 3/8", rear 39 1/4"
camper hooked with WD front 40 1/4", rear 40"
For me this hitch works and I like it. My cousin was looking at buying a hitch for his 32' Kodiak TT. He liked the looks and ease of the Andersen, but I actually talked him out of it and into the Equal-I-zer since he a tongue weight just over 1000lbs, and told him that he probably wouldn't be as happy with the Andersen as I am.
Also I have been keeping my eye on craigslist and ebay for a Equal-I-zer, so I could try that and actually see for myself if there is a big difference being that this Andersen is my first WD hitch.
2004 F150 FX4, with lots of mods and way too much money dumped into the truck for said mods
2013 Passport 3220BH
old TTs:
2012 Grey Wolf 26BH
2001 Kodiak K215
The 2013 Chevrolet Suburban Owner's Manual has the following to say:
"Vehicle Hitch Type Maximum Tongue Weight
2500 Weight Carrying 453 kg (1,000 lbs)"
1,000 pounds of tongue weight will accommodate a lot of small to medium sized trailers and according to the chart, not require a WD hitch or 0% FALR. But who really cares?
PHS79 wrote:
I am a member a few different RV forums, so I have read more than my fair share of threads about the Andersen hitch. From what I have read it seems like the Andersen hitch does a fair-good job of WD on trailers with a tongue weight of 800lbs or less, and that when on bigger TT's with weights of 1000lbs or more the Andersen hitch doesn't transfer enough weight back to the front of the TV.
I run the Andersen hitch and really like it, but my TT is fairly lite at only 6500lbs and a tongue weight nearing 700lbs right now. And with 1/4" compression of the bushings I am able to get the front end back to within 1/8 inch of its empty height and the rear to about 1/4" lower than empty:
(all measurements taken at wheel well openings)
truck empty-- front 40 1/8", rear 40 1/4"
camper hooked no WD-- front 40 3/8", rear 39 1/4"
camper hooked with WD front 40 1/4", rear 40"
For me this hitch works and I like it. My cousin was looking at buying a hitch for his 32' Kodiak TT. He liked the looks and ease of the Andersen, but I actually talked him out of it and into the Equal-I-zer since he a tongue weight just over 1000lbs, and told him that he probably wouldn't be as happy with the Andersen as I am.
Also I have been keeping my eye on craigslist and ebay for a Equal-I-zer, so I could try that and actually see for myself if there is a big difference being that this Andersen is my first WD hitch.
I am a member a few different RV forums, so I have read more than my fair share of threads about the Andersen hitch. From what I have read it seems like the Andersen hitch does a fair-good job of WD on trailers with a tongue weight of 800lbs or less, and that when on bigger TT's with weights of 1000lbs or more the Andersen hitch doesn't transfer enough weight back to the front of the TV.
I run the Andersen hitch and really like it, but my TT is fairly lite at only 6500lbs and a tongue weight nearing 700lbs right now. And with 1/4" compression of the bushings I am able to get the front end back to within 1/8 inch of its empty height and the rear to about 1/4" lower than empty:
(all measurements taken at wheel well openings)
truck empty-- front 40 1/8", rear 40 1/4"
camper hooked no WD-- front 40 3/8", rear 39 1/4"
camper hooked with WD front 40 1/4", rear 40"
For me this hitch works and I like it. My cousin was looking at buying a hitch for his 32' Kodiak TT. He liked the looks and ease of the Andersen, but I actually talked him out of it and into the Equal-I-zer since he a tongue weight just over 1000lbs, and told him that he probably wouldn't be as happy with the Andersen as I am.
Also I have been keeping my eye on craigslist and ebay for a Equal-I-zer, so I could try that and actually see for myself if there is a big difference being that this Andersen is my first WD hitch.
Well stated and thanks for relating your experience. I too would suggest the Equal-I-Zer for your cousin or anyone else with over 800 pounds of tongue weight.
The chart on page 9-68 (pdf page 326) from the 2013 Suburban manual lists this for the receiver :
1500/2500 Weight Distributing, 1,000# Max
1500/2500 Weight Carrying, 600# Max
On page 9-69 (pdf page 327) it talks about returning the front end to unhitched height with the WD hitch. Does not say the 2500 is any different than the 1500.
See the manual here: 2013 Suburban Manual
Here are some a pics of the 2007 redesign receiver that took the 2500 Suburban/Yukon out of towing anything larger than a 1,000# TW camper. Glad I had a 2003.
![[image]](http://s23.photobucket.com/user/JBarca/media/Hitch%20Setup/2007burb.jpg.html)
Here is the 2007 GMC 2500 Burb with the new receiver. According 2013 manual above, this fact has not changed.
![[image]](http://s23.photobucket.com/user/JBarca/media/Hitch%20Setup/2007rearhitch.jpg.html)
![[image]](http://s23.photobucket.com/user/JBarca/media/Hitch%20Setup/2007rearunderside.jpg.html)
If anyone has found something different on the new Suburban, please help show us how you found this.
Also for reasons not understood, GM now states how to adjust WD on a PU very different than the SUV truck line. Why???
The Andersen hitch used on a Burb, will need to obtain full WD to bring the front back to unhitched.
Note: Moderator edit to enlarge pictures to forum limit for easier reading.
* This post was last edited 06/03/13 11:51am by an administrator/moderator *
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver
2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)
JBarca wrote:
Also for reasons not understood, GM now states how to adjust WD on a PU very different than the SUV truck line. Why???
John,Also for reasons not understood, GM now states how to adjust WD on a PU very different than the SUV truck line. Why???
I don't know why GM now specifies that WD is "optional" for some trucks, FALR = 50% for some trucks and loading, and FALR = 100% for some trucks and loading.
I do know that Chevrolet announced nearly three years ago that WD was not needed for their HD trucks, Weight Distribution No Longer Needed on Chevy HDs ??.
I don't know why it took them two years to adopt the change via their Owners Manuals.
Ron
Unfortunately, that link no longer leads to the article which it did three years ago.
I'll do some digging to see if I can locate the original article.
Ron
For sway control, it was great. It was also easy to hook up and light. However, I never really felt like it transferred enough weight to the front axles. Because of that, I'm not sure I'd use it again.
With my F-150, front rise was 3/8", and I was able to get it back to zero by tightening the Andersen to "9" threads - about as tight as I could get it before the supplied socket ran out of bite. (started with the nut flush to the bolt when hand tight).
Several small instances of sway observed, and one bigger instance that set off the truck's anti-sway system/warnings.
Great concept, but I think I just overwhelmed it with too big of a trailer. Maybe if I could get the TW up higher, it would have resolved, but I kinda doubt it - too much tail wagging the dog for the friction material to prevent the motion.
As noted, a great hitch for smaller rigs than mine. But they seem to be very optimistic in how big you can go using their hitch.
2012 F150 Eco, 4x4, SCrew, Max Tow, HD Payload
2017 Grand Design Imagine 2670MK
