BenK wrote:
Are you the one who had those Andersen TT Tongue brackets slide posted
on one of the other Andersen System threads?
If so, note that when those brackets slide, they reduce or even lose
all of the plastic bushing (spring) force, which then reduce the amount
of WD forces on the Ball/Shank
There are two set screws that needs to gouge into the TT's tongue
member (Channel or square tube).
They then become the holding mechanism for the Andersen system to
do it's WD forces. The also become pivot points that has those brackets
pivot on to wedge themselves into the TT's tongue member.
Now that I've written this and thought a bit more....you folks with
this WD system should re-check those two set screws (bolts with pointed
ends that gouge themselves into the TT's tongue) often till the stop
loosening. Also, now thinking about it, re-paint that contact area
Atlee wrote:
snip...
Sorry to hear this. I hope it doesn't bode poorly for me. I get the replacement brackets today. (ordered the wrong size initially). I'll have a better than good idea how my Andersen works after Memorial Day Weekend.
We have to go to Orlando, and we're pulling the TT. While I'll not have to contend with any mountains, there will be lots of 18 wheelers to deal with.
I do have a longer wheel base TV. F150 w/ 6.5 ft box, 144.5" WB. Also the TT is just 5500# GVWR.
We'll see how it goes.
snip...
Sorry to hear this. I hope it doesn't bode poorly for me. I get the replacement brackets today. (ordered the wrong size initially). I'll have a better than good idea how my Andersen works after Memorial Day Weekend.
We have to go to Orlando, and we're pulling the TT. While I'll not have to contend with any mountains, there will be lots of 18 wheelers to deal with.
I do have a longer wheel base TV. F150 w/ 6.5 ft box, 144.5" WB. Also the TT is just 5500# GVWR.
We'll see how it goes.
Are you the one who had those Andersen TT Tongue brackets slide posted
on one of the other Andersen System threads?
If so, note that when those brackets slide, they reduce or even lose
all of the plastic bushing (spring) force, which then reduce the amount
of WD forces on the Ball/Shank
There are two set screws that needs to gouge into the TT's tongue
member (Channel or square tube).
They then become the holding mechanism for the Andersen system to
do it's WD forces. The also become pivot points that has those brackets
pivot on to wedge themselves into the TT's tongue member.
Now that I've written this and thought a bit more....you folks with
this WD system should re-check those two set screws (bolts with pointed
ends that gouge themselves into the TT's tongue) often till the stop
loosening. Also, now thinking about it, re-paint that contact area
Erroll, Mary
2021 Coachmen Freedom Express 20SE
2014 F150 Supercab 4x4 w/ 8' box, Ecoboost & HD Pkg
Equal-i-zer Hitch
1. Regarding the assuption that the brackets can slide on the frame: that's a WAG at best. In 3000 miles towing cross-country the Andersen setpoints haven't moved at all - none, nada, ziltch. I simply followed the intall instructions and the attachment is rock solid. The belt and suspender guys can certainly through-bolt the brackets for an added sense of security.
2. Regarding the pressure on the hitch latch mechanism, I can see the wear marks on the ball clearly. They are from the hemisphical hitch socket dome, not the latch. The only time the latch is touching the ball is when I lift the tongue up high to set the chain tension. This is exactly the same as on my old traditional WD hitch.
3. Folks who envision the ball slamming around inside the hitch socket are far from the mark. The ball is firmly clamped into the dome of the hitch. There is no slop in this connection.
Only time and experience will measure if this new hitch has merit. The uninformed WAG game has run a bit far in this thread.
2004 Keystone Cougar 294-RLS (6125 lbs/675 lbs dry)
2011 Ford Expedition EL XLT HD Tow
2012 Ford F150 S-Crew EcoBoost XLT Max Tow
logistic wrote:
I just want to clear the air on some of the misconceptions this thread is generating.
1. Regarding the assuption that the brackets can slide on the frame: that's a WAG at best. In 3000 miles towing cross-country the Andersen setpoints haven't moved at all - none, nada, ziltch. I simply followed the intall instructions and the attachment is rock solid. The belt and suspender guys can certainly through-bolt the brackets for an added sense of security.
Only time and experience will measure if this new hitch has merit. The uninformed WAG game has run a bit far in this thread.
I just want to clear the air on some of the misconceptions this thread is generating.
1. Regarding the assuption that the brackets can slide on the frame: that's a WAG at best. In 3000 miles towing cross-country the Andersen setpoints haven't moved at all - none, nada, ziltch. I simply followed the intall instructions and the attachment is rock solid. The belt and suspender guys can certainly through-bolt the brackets for an added sense of security.
Only time and experience will measure if this new hitch has merit. The uninformed WAG game has run a bit far in this thread.
Logistics,
How deep did you set the set screw? The directions state to give three full turns after contact. I was only able to get 1 1/4-1 1/2 turns. Any more and I would have bent my allen wrench.
If I were to install it again. I'd drill the rails first using the alternate instructions in the manual. Then you could apply less torque on the set screws. I'd also consider just thru-bolting it and be done for good.
Goodluck on the install!
2004 F150 FX4, with lots of mods and way too much money dumped into the truck for said mods
2013 Passport 3220BH
old TTs:
2012 Grey Wolf 26BH
2001 Kodiak K215
It took a while to get the trailer parallel with the drive. Had to get on the ground, and partially get under the trailer to measure fore and aft. Then lift or lower the tongue.
I will say this. Thank heaven for the Barker I installed last week. Would hate to think about having to hand crank the tongue all the time.
I got as far as getting the rear brackets snug before losing daylight.
Shouldn't take much more to finish tomorrow. My biggest problem will be tightening the set screws enough to hold the brackets.
I may have to go buy an Allen wrench large enough tighten the screws.
One thing I have thought about doing is marking where the set screws go, and then drilling a dimple in the A-frame for the set screw to settle into.
Wouldn't this work?
Atlee wrote:
Snip...
One thing I have thought about doing is marking where the set screws go, and then drilling a dimple in the A-frame for the set screw to settle into.
Wouldn't this work?
Snip...
One thing I have thought about doing is marking where the set screws go, and then drilling a dimple in the A-frame for the set screw to settle into.
Wouldn't this work?
That is what I would do. In fact, I would probably put a small hole all the way through.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine
BarneyS wrote:
That is what I would do. In fact, I would probably put a small hole all the way through.
Barney
Atlee wrote:
Snip...
One thing I have thought about doing is marking where the set screws go, and then drilling a dimple in the A-frame for the set screw to settle into.
Wouldn't this work?
Snip...
One thing I have thought about doing is marking where the set screws go, and then drilling a dimple in the A-frame for the set screw to settle into.
Wouldn't this work?
That is what I would do. In fact, I would probably put a small hole all the way through.
Barney
To be devils advocate...
This is where simulation is needed, as this is a stress raiser of the
highest order.
ALL of the bushing/spring forces are concentrated on this small gouged
section of the tongue
There is some level of rocking of the brackets till they bottom out
on the tongue during that tilt. The brackets pivot on these screw points
till the rest of the bracket bottoms
There has been one reported instance of these brackets sliding. Both
that the screw points were NOT fully seated as per the manual and that
the brackets were too large for that trailer tongue
The reason simulation is needed for 'this' is that there are dynamic
forces on that point
Assume that the designers have a level of contact pressure to hold that
set screw in place, preventing it from backing out
If a hole is drilled...question is will it hold it from backing out
over time?
If not fully torqued (3 full turns), will have enough holding force
to keep it from backing out over time?
If not fully torqued (3 full turns), will it then have the metal of
the tongue 'work' itself into a oval, to then finally work itself both
out and/or slide down towards the ball?
Some of the attributes needed to simulate: the alloy/temper of the
bracket. The tolerance (how tight to the tongue), therefore how much
will the bracket/tongue/set-screw move during the trip(s)? etc, etc, etc
BenK wrote:
To be devils advocate...
This is where simulation is needed, as this is a stress raiser of the
highest order. Snip...
BarneyS wrote:
That is what I would do. In fact, I would probably put a small hole all the way through.
Barney
Atlee wrote:
Snip...
One thing I have thought about doing is marking where the set screws go, and then drilling a dimple in the A-frame for the set screw to settle into.
Wouldn't this work?
Snip...
One thing I have thought about doing is marking where the set screws go, and then drilling a dimple in the A-frame for the set screw to settle into.
Wouldn't this work?
That is what I would do. In fact, I would probably put a small hole all the way through.
Barney
To be devils advocate...
This is where simulation is needed, as this is a stress raiser of the
highest order. Snip...
Simulation?
* This post was edited 05/03/12 08:31pm by an administrator/moderator *
Jeannie
We're over thinking this thing. To me, common sense says that a dimple that is drilled into the frame is better than no dimple. With out drilling a dimple, one is betting on the small fine point of the set screw making enough of a dimple on it's on in the metal frame from the heavy torquing needed.
With drilling a dimple, the point on the set screw has a much larger, deeper dimple to set itself into.
* This post was edited 05/04/12 07:14am by an administrator/moderator *