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Topic: New Andersen WD hitch |
Posted By: Gallifrey
on 03/24/12 06:39pm
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Well, I finally got the hitch set up and tested. The end result: nice and smooth. The trailer tows great. It wasn't a windy day, so I wasn't able to test the anti-sway feature much, though I did try some semi-abrupt maneuvers on the freeway and it seemed to work very well, and I had no sway the entire time. The details: I have a 2005 Nissan Armada with the factory tow package. This includes auto leveling rear shocks. The trailer is a KZ Spree BHS. 6141 lbs UVW, 790 lbs Dry Hitch Weight. GVWR of 7300 lbs. As you'll see in the picture below, the coupler is on the bottom of the frame. Some background: I previously had an Equal-i-zer hitch, which worked fine as far as towing goes. It was a bit bouncy, but anti-sway and weight distribution was fine. I didn't like the weight of the hitch, nor the grease, nor the noise and the brackets would "walk" up and down the frame frequently if I didn't stay on top of them and tighten them frequently. So, I got the Anderson hitch. Installation was fine except I was missing a washer for the red "springs", which Anderson promptly shipped to me. Also, I had to buy some new sockets to fit the various nuts. Also, I did have to use the "secure" method to attach the set pins. I wasn't able to turn the set pins anywhere near the 3 turns past them "touching" the frame as the manual suggested. And, they moved the first time I put weight on them. So, I drilled holes for the pins and tightened them into those holes, which is what the manual suggests as a more secure way to do it. The size of holes they recommended didn't exactly fit the screws, so I couldn't get the set screws all the way in, but they are in there pretty good and didn't move. After that, I tried several different adjustments on the chains, and here are the results, with measurements at each wheel: Before hooking up the hitch: Front 36 1/8" Rear 36 1/8" No weight distribution: Front 37 1/8" Rear 33 1/4" 7 threads: Front 36 3/4" Rear 33 3/4" 8 threads: Front 36 5/8" Rear 34" 9 threads: Front 36 3/8" Rear: 34 1/8" Note that the auto-leveling shocks moved the rear back up to 36 1/4" after starting the vehicle. I tried towing about 20 miles with both 8 threads and 9 threads. They both "felt" about the same, but hooking up with 9 threads seems to really compress the springs, probably more than they should (I'll ask Anderson about that), so I'll probably keep it set at 8 threads unless my measurements show that, after I've loaded a trailer a specific way, it's not enough WD for my vehicle. So, overall, as long as there no long-term problems, I'm happy with this hitch. One thing is, though, with the Equal-i-zer hitch, I could dial up the WD as much as I want without seeming to put a strain on anything. I could push my front wheels down beyond the unhitched height easily. (I didn't tow this way, this just happened when I was setting it up and I set it to be too aggressive.) I don't think I could do that with the Anderson. Here's a picture of my setup with 9 threads showing (sorry, I should have taken the picture at a lower angle): ![]() * This post was edited 03/24/12 07:02pm by Gallifrey * |
Posted By: Clanton24V
on 03/24/12 06:51pm
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Dang, Excellent reply to this thread. It's great see that everyone that tries the hitch is really happy with it. I know I was sold as soon as I tried it
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Posted By: PHS79
on 03/24/12 07:32pm
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Atlee wrote: ![]() Have you read, or has Andersen indicated how long the brake material around the shank will last? Will purchasers of the Andersen hitch be forced to buy a new Hitch X number of years from now, or will the hitch last for years and years? When I talked with Jason Green, a sales rep for Andersen, I asked him how long the brake material would last. He said that 50,000 miles of towing would have the same wear on the brake material as doing 2 stops from 60mph with your car or truck. He said that if it did every wear out, just contact them, return it and they would either replace the material or the whole mount. Also I asked what all was covered under the lifetime warranty, according to Jason--the ball, aluminium ball mount, the brake material, and the poly bushings all carry the lifetime warranty. 2004 F150 FX4, with lots of mods and way too much money dumped into the truck for said mods 2013 Passport 3220BH old TTs: 2012 Grey Wolf 26BH 2001 Kodiak K215 |
Posted By: Clanton24V
on 03/24/12 07:48pm
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PHS79 wrote: ![]() Atlee wrote: ![]() Have you read, or has Andersen indicated how long the brake material around the shank will last? Will purchasers of the Andersen hitch be forced to buy a new Hitch X number of years from now, or will the hitch last for years and years? When I talked with Jason Green, a sales rep for Andersen, I asked him how long the brake material would last. He said that 50,000 miles of towing would have the same wear on the brake material as doing 2 stops from 60mph with your car or truck. He said that if it did every wear out, just contact them, return it and they would either replace the material or the whole mount. Also I asked what all was covered under the lifetime warranty, according to Jason--the ball, aluminium ball mount, the brake material, and the poly bushings all carry the lifetime warranty. Excellent info. Thank you |
Posted By: LIKE2BUILD
on 03/24/12 10:35pm
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Okay. After following this thread since it first began, I have to say I'm very intrigued by this hitch. My Eaz-Lift/Dual Cam combo works great and I don't intend to swap this setup but I have to say this Anderson WD system certainly has piqued my interest. KJ '14 Ram 2500|Crew Cab Long Bed|4X4|Cummins Curt Q20 with Ram 5th Wheel Prep 2000 Crownline 205BR 1997 Ranger Comanche 461VS '01 Polaris Virage TX PWC '94 Polaris SLT750 PWC 3 Wonderful Sons (21, 15, & 13) 1 forgiving wife!!! |
Posted By: Atlee
on 03/25/12 12:41pm
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Question for anyone who has the Andersen WD hitch. How many inches is it from the ball to where the WD system bolts to the A-frame? I ask because I'm interested in getting an Andersen, but I have a limited amount of space on the A-frame to mount the WD system to the trailer. I have a '09 Hi-Lo. the mount for the twin LP bottles is welded to the frame near the tongue jack. Most of the rest of the A-frame space is taken up by the electric motor and hydralic pump, and chassis battery. I haven't measured the distance yet. Next time I go out with a tape in hand, I will. Erroll, Mary 2021 Coachmen Freedom Express 20SE 2014 F150 Supercab 4x4 w/ 8' box, Ecoboost & HD Pkg Equal-i-zer Hitch |
Posted By: Clanton24V
on 03/25/12 04:04pm
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The chains can be shortened to make up for that
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Posted By: handye9
on 03/25/12 04:20pm
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Atlee wrote: ![]() Question for anyone who has the Andersen WD hitch. How many inches is it from the ball to where the WD system bolts to the A-frame? I ask because I'm interested in getting an Andersen, but I have a limited amount of space on the A-frame to mount the WD system to the trailer. I have a '09 Hi-Lo. the mount for the twin LP bottles is welded to the frame near the tongue jack. Most of the rest of the A-frame space is taken up by the electric motor and hydralic pump, and chassis battery. I haven't measured the distance yet. Next time I go out with a tape in hand, I will. The book doesn't specify a minimum or maximum distance. It does say, "If obstructions cannot be moved or adjusted, you can accommodate them by removing one or more links from tension chains (shackle end)". Both sets of brackets should be perpendicular to the frame and equal distance from center of the ball. 18 Nissan Titan XD 12 Flagstaff 831FKBSS Wife and I Retired Navy Master Chief (retired since 1995) ![]() |
Posted By: PHS79
on 03/25/12 06:43pm
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On mine the front edge of the bracket is roughly 30" from the center of the hitch, but I also added 1 link to avoid the LP tanks. So with no links added or removed the brackets would be at about 27.5". This was another question that I had for Jason, Andersens sales rep, when I talked with him. He said that you could add or remove as may links as needed to avoid things like LP tanks, batterys, ect. But he said that a minimum of 4 links is needed for the system to work correctly. |
Posted By: Atlee
on 03/25/12 07:59pm
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Thanks, PHS79 & handye9. Based on those answers, the Andersen should work for me. |
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