I am still not clear about: "The braces will skirt the outside of the unit and come back to join to two runners of the same channel that will extend like the old wooden ones did." How far beneath the coach will you extend the channel? You're a lot more familiar with metal fatigue than I, but I'm just wondering.
On edit: I think we cross posted about the stairs. If they are stored inside then that creates another set of issues: to find a way for them to not be in the way or rattling about. Or quick access to the coach when you're on the side of the road.
As for the supports I plan to use at least two pieces of steel channel in place of some* of the wooden runners that are used, like 69avion did with his plastic wood runners but this way the weight should be transferred along the length of the camper though it will have stress points @ the weld area I wont be hauling any of my anvils inside so I hope it wont be an issue.
this is a quick idea of what Im talking about, not quit to scale but you can get the idea, this would be the under side of the unit so ignore the google man standing next to it heh.
![[image]](http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/9261/sketch1e.jpg)
![[image]](http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/5624/sketch2g.jpg)
![[image]](http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/1234/stairmount.jpg)
This should add quite a bit of rigidity to the floor of the unit overall. The black holes would be the sockets for the stair inserts, this way the steps are supported by the steel and not from the plywood, the factory stairs just had a type of carriage bolt that on my unit was rusted through and pulled out on the leading edge.
* This post was last edited 07/08/12 11:08am by an administrator/moderator *
Edit: Might go with the U-channel like whats in the image, makes it easier on me to weld and keeps the weight down a little too.
* This post was edited 07/06/12 05:13pm by BlackFlagForge *
Used a metal weight calculator set for rectangle tube steel for the amount I need ( around 32' total ) and its 101 lbs so for the u-channel I should be able to subtract at least 1/4 of the weight for the missing wall (25lb) so the whole frame will only add about 75# or less to the unit, much less than expected!
* This post was last edited 07/06/12 06:48pm by BlackFlagForge *
'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed
BlackFlagForge wrote:
I dont think the stairs will be much of an issue for me, a basic light wooden set would work fine. Open the door and they are ready to pull out and slid in place. Not sure yet about keeping them secure when traveling but if I build them light I can put a rack on the inside of the door to hang them from.
As for the supports I plan to use at least two pieces of steel channel in place of some* of the wooden runners that are used, like 69avion did with his plastic wood runners but this way the weight should be transferred along the length of the camper though it will have stress points @ the weld area I wont be hauling any of my anvils inside so I hope it wont be an issue.
this is a quick idea of what Im talking about, not quit to scale but you can get the idea, this would be the under side of the unit so ignore the google man standing next to it heh.
This should add quite a bit of rigidity to the floor of the unit overall. The black holes would be the sockets for the stair inserts, this way the steps are supported by the steel and not from the plywood, the factory stairs just had a type of carriage bolt that on my unit was rusted through and pulled out on the leading edge.
I dont think the stairs will be much of an issue for me, a basic light wooden set would work fine. Open the door and they are ready to pull out and slid in place. Not sure yet about keeping them secure when traveling but if I build them light I can put a rack on the inside of the door to hang them from.
As for the supports I plan to use at least two pieces of steel channel in place of some* of the wooden runners that are used, like 69avion did with his plastic wood runners but this way the weight should be transferred along the length of the camper though it will have stress points @ the weld area I wont be hauling any of my anvils inside so I hope it wont be an issue.
this is a quick idea of what Im talking about, not quit to scale but you can get the idea, this would be the under side of the unit so ignore the google man standing next to it heh.
This should add quite a bit of rigidity to the floor of the unit overall. The black holes would be the sockets for the stair inserts, this way the steps are supported by the steel and not from the plywood, the factory stairs just had a type of carriage bolt that on my unit was rusted through and pulled out on the leading edge.
I don't think the steel in the overhang is adding strength where you need it and adding weight . Why not run the stringers out to the end cross piece you are going to attach the steps to . You could run 3 stringers if you think you need them. Also watch the locations of the tanks and pipes so the steel isn't in the way . I think the stringers are a good addition . Are you adding a grey tank?
* This post was edited 07/08/12 11:07am by an administrator/moderator *
![[image]](http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/3152/wingproblem.jpg)
So far all of the repairs I have seen use a 4x8 sheet turned so that its one full sheet to replace the back end instead of two sections attached to the center. I'm not looking to go that far as most of my wood is still very strong, but once I remove these T&G pieces I want a more secure way to support that weight, especially @ the bathroom where it must support the blackwater tank as well as a human and any water they are using at the time.
The way I have the frame going around the edge avoids all of my tanks and plumbing ( the area around the blackwater will look a little different but I wanted to do a quick sketch to visualize) all of the plumbing hangs about 3" from the wood to start with.
The not adding strength to this area part I don't understand please explain. As for the weight it's less than 75# to which my truck wont bat an eye.
Not sure about greywater yet, I am either at a nice location with hookups or in the middle of nowhere and can gopher hole like my manual talks about hahah. I would like to do the fiberglass extension like I posted but I'm not sure yet depends if the inlaws are up for doing some work
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
![[image]](http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/1313/newoel.jpg)
Please note, width=640
* This post was last edited 07/07/12 08:27am by an administrator/moderator *
BlackFlagForge wrote:
The not adding strength to this area part I don't understand please explain. As for the weight it's less than 75# to which my truck wont bat an eye.
The not adding strength to this area part I don't understand please explain. As for the weight it's less than 75# to which my truck wont bat an eye.
I can see why you need the extra framing . I miss understood where the T&G joint was . I thought it was where the overhang met the 4' wide section of floor and the overhang would still be all one piece left to right .
BTW , just as an observation , of all the rotted out Avions I looked at before I found the one I have , I never saw one with the back or front overhang sagging . I believe it is because the shell actually supports the floor as apposed to the floor supporting the shell . The floor does supply lateral support .