Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Avion truck campers

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Topic: Avion truck campers - Hundreds of photos

Posted By: sabconsulting on 07/01/12 01:17am

When I built my aluminum roof I coated the screw heads, where they touched the aluminum, with Lanocote grease to insulate them. Before doing so we had a big discussion here about what to use - some things you think will make good insulators are slightly acidic and can just make the situation worse (effectively building a battery - 2 dissimilar metals with acid in between).

The problem is it is unlikely to be the easily replaced SS screw that corrodes - it will be the thin aluminum skin. I've seen it in Land Rovers - the climate here doesn't help - aluminum door skins corrode badly turning a powdery white where they touch steel frames - after a few years you can get holes in the aluminum and screw holes start to expand in size as they corrode.

Steve.

'07 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab diesel + '91 Shadow Cruiser - Sky Cruiser 1
'98 Jeep TJ 4.0
'15 Ford Fiesta ST
'09 Fiat Panda 1.2

Posted By: Conch Cruiser on 07/01/12 06:23am

I found some aluminum screws at lowes home improvemsnt. I tried using them on my camper. They worked ok, but the heads will break off if you shoot them in with a drill.

1999 Chevy 3500 SRW 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed
1996 Coachmen Ranger 100SD
Tork Lift Front Tie Downs
Happijac Rear Tie Downs
Ride Rite Air Bags
Polar Cub AC Model 9201a-776 8,300BTU
Honda EU2000i generator

Posted By: ticki2 on 07/01/12 06:27am

When working on the Avion I also struggled with the SS screw dilemma . I am by no means an expert .

Keep in mind that this is a 44 year old unit . On the outside there were very few screws . The banding trim around the front and back had aluminum screws . There were steel brackets on the front side of the overhang that looked like they were for struts . There was signs of corrosion where the steel contacted the aluminum skin . Same thing where the jack support angles were bolted under the wings. The marker and tail lights are screwed on with what looks like Zinc coated screws . Some were rusted , some were not , non severely . I suspect that the combination of the Zinc coating , which is close to aluminum on the galvanic scale , and the anodizing of the skin stopped the galvanic reaction . I believe the roof vents are screwed on but I did not remove since there were not problematic and were covered in caulking .

On the inside I found some rusted screws again but also not severe . I believe the moisture in the wood contributed more to that than galvanic action . When re-installing the aluminum trim around the counter top and the bathroom I used ss screws . It has been 4 years and have not seen any reaction . That being said I have since purchase ( online ) aluminum screws to replace the ss . I am most concerned with the bath because of the moisture it is exposed to . With the exception of the trim screws I have used a physical barrier between aluminum and steel when ever I encountered it . I agree that a ss screw in a block of aluminum will not do much but gall the aluminum threads . With the thin aluminum skin the ss screw will eventually eat a hole the size of the head , especially near salt air or water without a protective barrier between them .

'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed

Posted By: ticki2 on 07/01/12 06:36am

On the same topic but different application . I have 2 underbed aluminum boxes on my flatbed truck that I also use for plowing snow winters . The are exposed to harsh environments of salt and water . They are mounted with ss bolts and are show lots of corrosion around the bolt heads . I need to do something about it , yesterday !

Posted By: Reddog1 on 07/01/12 11:06am

If you have rust on the screws/bolts, they are not Stainless Steel, or they are an exceptionally low grade of stainless. Personally, I have never seen a rusted stainless screw/bolt. One of the primary reasons for using stainless, is that it does not rust.

Wayne

Posted By: ticki2 on 07/01/12 11:36am

Reddog1 wrote:

The corrosion is on the aluminum where the bolt head makes contact , not on the ss bolt . The same thing happened using ss bolts for the license plate . The galvanic action made a hole around the bolt on the thin plate to the point it was holding nothing and fell off . Aluminum running boards in the salt belt north will do the same thing.

Posted By: Reddog1 on 07/01/12 01:28pm

ticki2 wrote:

Reddog1 wrote:

Perhaps I misunderstood your post: "... On the inside I found some rusted screws again but also not severe . ..."

Wayne

Posted By: Avion C-11 on 07/01/12 02:39pm

Over the last month we really hunkered down and got to work on the camper!

We have completed the deanodizing of the entire camper! It took us six months from when we started to get to this point but at last it is finally done. Polishing goes quick once the deanodizing is done. So within the next few weeks I hope to have the entire thing rough polished and can begin moving to the interior.

The major project over the last month was rebuilding the rear door. The original door was flimsy, rotten and leaking. The inner aluminum shell of the door had some sort of aluminum disease that was very ugly. So, we scrapped the inner door and made an Oak framed hollow wood door and attached it to the outer door skin. The way I envisioned building this door was very simple but because of all the variables involved with out of square door frames, door seals, hinges, and the fact that the door probably never fit well made the project take much longer than I had hoped.

It was 110 degrees and humid as heck here this weekend! So, we finally decided to put up some shade. We made a sail shade that we can move around the yard to cover where we are working.

--
Part of what I have been doing is going back and fixing areas that I did not finish properly. When I first deanodized and polished this piece I had intended to install the reflectors back in place but now I think I will not.
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After deanodizing
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Ugg, we had a lot of deanodizing to still do on the right side.
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So, here's the dirty, stinky, leaky mess of a back door after it came out of the camper.
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Removing the lock.
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The other side.
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These screw covers are very hard to find. Anyone know where to get them?
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Screen off.
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This is the molding on the inside. I thought I had found this molding online but when I got it, it was slightly different and didn't have the little barb on it that keeps it in place.

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Here is the window coming out. You can see some of the mold on the inside of the door. It was disgusting!!!
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The inside of the door is cardboard. It was full of mold.
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Here was one dry piece to give you an idea of what it should look like.
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In addition to the cardboard there is a wood frame held together with metal rods. Mine was mostly rotted away.
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Here's the door skin cleaned up and deanodized.
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Here's a good technique for keeping oven cleaner from running off while you are deanodizing. This really makes it easier.
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Trial fitting the door frame.
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Gluing and clamping the frame.
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Here is the polished door frame. This is the one area on the camper other than the screen frame on the back door that is not anodized.
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I was able to find the trim piece that goes in the door frame. I may or may not actually use it in the end as the frame polished up nicely.
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Testing the door with the inner laminate skin on it and mounting the hinges.
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Entire right side deanodized. I need to fix the oven vent. Anyone have pics or diagrams of how the little flapper inside of it works. Mine is missing.
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Spar varnish inside the door.
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Insulation inside the door. I used little pieces of foam to space the foam up flush to the outer skin. That will leave the airpocket on the inside of the door.
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Here's my dad polishing the door skin.
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The door skin and door ready to be joined. I used epoxy to mate them together and it made a very stiff and rigid door. I have no idea what the old one weighed but this one finished out at about 15 pounds.
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Finished door.
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I have lots of pictures in the blog of how this lock goes together in case anyone ever wants to take it apart and grease it up like I did.
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Finished door lock install.
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Polishing is hot and dirty work!
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Putting some new aluminum screen in the rear door screen frame.
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Window installs from the outside first.
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Followed by the screen also from the outside.
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The heat has been killer this weekend so we put up a moveable shade.
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Everything around the rear door polished and ready for the new door.
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Still missing the trim around the inside of the window but the rear door is now being installed.
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Yay!! It's finally done!! Lot's of work went into that freakin door!
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And now I need to decide if I am going to replace any of the panels in the back. I had some big dents that I took out in both rear upper corners. They look OK but not 100%. I may work on them some more but if I am going to replace them, now would be a good time. Thnoughts?

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Lots more pics in the blog if you want them:

http://avioncamper.wordpress.com/

Happy camping,

Chris

Happy Camping!

Avioncamper.wordpress.com

Posted By: ticki2 on 07/01/12 02:39pm

Reddog1,
I'm not sure where the confusion is . None of the original screws in the Avion were ss , they are zinc coated , some were rusted .

I did replace some screws on the counter and bath trim , which is alum , with ss screws , and have not had a problem yet .

The ss bolt I referred to were on the alum truck boxes and they did cause corrosion to the aluminum .

Hope that clarifies it .

Posted By: 69 Avion on 07/01/12 04:52pm

Avion C-11, you are doing a great job on your camper. I was lucky on my door. We had to put longer screws in it, but that is all that it required. If it goes bad, at least I now know how to rebuild it.

My camper, having been in metro Phoenix, AZ it's entire life, has been good for it. It has very little rot, and what was rotted was from the rear vent being bad for years.
I still have to fix the screen on the back door, but that is an easy fix.

Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel
1988 Avion Triple Axle Trailer
1969 Avion C-11 Camper

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