garryk6 wrote:
Actually, I do not have a bathroom right now... I have no interior walls or cabinets, and the fiberglass/plastic surround is all gone before I got it. The point I was referreing to, is the wall to the left of your picture. The wall between the bath and the dining area. How is it attached to the wall and ceiling? Curved piece of pine or birch? Curved piece of plywood? Curved piece of aluminum? Tryin to decide if I will re-use the old location, or move the wall back towards the back of the camper by 6-8 inches.
To define what I am trying to do. I hope to build a fold down bunk above the dinette as well as move the dinette aft a little bit, since we hope to push the cabover bunk back just enough to fit a queen matress (or foam the size of a queen mattress) for my wife and I. Then 2 kids on the dinnette and one on the fold down bunk.
I hope this all makes sense...
Thanks again for the pics. I hope to start getting my aluminum pieces picked up, and have my son start welding, as he is getting pretty good at the High School welding program.
Talk to you more later!
Garry
Actually, I do not have a bathroom right now... I have no interior walls or cabinets, and the fiberglass/plastic surround is all gone before I got it. The point I was referreing to, is the wall to the left of your picture. The wall between the bath and the dining area. How is it attached to the wall and ceiling? Curved piece of pine or birch? Curved piece of plywood? Curved piece of aluminum? Tryin to decide if I will re-use the old location, or move the wall back towards the back of the camper by 6-8 inches.
To define what I am trying to do. I hope to build a fold down bunk above the dinette as well as move the dinette aft a little bit, since we hope to push the cabover bunk back just enough to fit a queen matress (or foam the size of a queen mattress) for my wife and I. Then 2 kids on the dinnette and one on the fold down bunk.
I hope this all makes sense...
Thanks again for the pics. I hope to start getting my aluminum pieces picked up, and have my son start welding, as he is getting pretty good at the High School welding program.
Talk to you more later!
Garry
Garry I have that partition and will try to get a pic for you tommorow.
As far as your bunk idea, the ribs are .060, 1 1/2" C channel w/1/2" flanges.
The factory added wood backers (go figure) in stress areas to distribute the load and hold screws better, grab handle @ door, fresh water connection on side of camper and the tv antennae to the left of door, to name a few.
The ribs that you can pick out by the rivet lines are the only structural pieces inside the skin.
The horizontal (front to back) rivet lines are not into anything strutural, just .025 al. bent into a C channel to support the sheet edges.
This will give you some idea what I'm saying................
![[image]](http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr249/denlou4525/100_0724.jpg)
and..............
![[image]](http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr249/denlou4525/interior002.jpg)
Dennis
ticki2 wrote:
I had a hard time locating that small size for the bath trim . When I finally did it still didn't work that well so I ground down a small flat screw driver which did the job . I replaced them with ss philip head.
67avion wrote:
The plastic surround to the bath is attached by screws that are, I think, unique to the aluminum RVs. Its a small slot screw that is called a "clutch head". It is an old system of high torque fasteners. Some of my workmen call them "butterfly" screws. They are available at vintage Trailer Supply.
![[image]](http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx38/dgorton/VTS-578-2.jpg)
Those screws are used everywhere there aren't rivets on the Avion and Airstream. So, I assume you're talking about removing the screws that go around the floor as well as the back of the toilet support?
![[image]](http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx38/dgorton/interior2.jpg)
I'm not sure, but I think it all comes out. As soon as I can get the time I plan on doing just that. If you go before me, take photos and let me know.
garryk6 wrote:
How is the wall to the bath attached to the wall and ceiling? I see the line on the painted aluminum telling me where it used to be, and I see som screw holes, but I am having a tough time picturing the assembly that mounts there.....
How is the wall to the bath attached to the wall and ceiling? I see the line on the painted aluminum telling me where it used to be, and I see som screw holes, but I am having a tough time picturing the assembly that mounts there.....
The plastic surround to the bath is attached by screws that are, I think, unique to the aluminum RVs. Its a small slot screw that is called a "clutch head". It is an old system of high torque fasteners. Some of my workmen call them "butterfly" screws. They are available at vintage Trailer Supply.
Those screws are used everywhere there aren't rivets on the Avion and Airstream. So, I assume you're talking about removing the screws that go around the floor as well as the back of the toilet support?
I'm not sure, but I think it all comes out. As soon as I can get the time I plan on doing just that. If you go before me, take photos and let me know.
I had a hard time locating that small size for the bath trim . When I finally did it still didn't work that well so I ground down a small flat screw driver which did the job . I replaced them with ss philip head.
You might want to check with the experts (boat or aircraft industries) before using stainless steel screws or any other metal except aluminum.
Galvonic action will quickly corrode the alumimum of your camper.
Even faster if you have contact from any water with salt in it.
Or, your physics handbook will have an IMF chart.
sleepy
2003 Lance 1161,/slideout/AGM batteries/255W Solar/propane generator/Sat dish/2 Fantastic Fans/AC/winter pkg
AirFoil, Trimetric, LED lights, Platcat vent heat
2003GMC K3500 LT/Crewcab/duramax diesel/allison/dually/4x4/OnStar/front reciever mounted spare
67avion wrote:
I think that is a good idea. I haven't been able to work through the Avion site. It seems it may have fallen on hard times. At any rate, this would keep us from "clogging up" the TC site.![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/awink.gif "awink")
A lot of people seem interested in "builds" that are accompanied by pix. If we can create a thread for smaller issues and then post larger themes on this thread I think that is the best thing.
I hope to try Sleepy's suggestion of dry ice as a remover of built up caulk, mastic and roof paint...which I will document in photos. Ditto with your suggestion on the Klean Strip "Peeler"....and 69 cayo's suggestion of xylene. Something should work.
I hope to start the repair and upgrade of the water systems this week, but life keeps getting in the way.
By the way, congrats on keeping the Avion on the road. Takes a bit of dedication.
tiki2 wrote:
Actually i was thinking about starting a thread for Avions to centralize the sharing of info on them , there are a few more on another site that could be invited over.
Actually i was thinking about starting a thread for Avions to centralize the sharing of info on them , there are a few more on another site that could be invited over.
I think that is a good idea. I haven't been able to work through the Avion site. It seems it may have fallen on hard times. At any rate, this would keep us from "clogging up" the TC site.
A lot of people seem interested in "builds" that are accompanied by pix. If we can create a thread for smaller issues and then post larger themes on this thread I think that is the best thing.
I hope to try Sleepy's suggestion of dry ice as a remover of built up caulk, mastic and roof paint...which I will document in photos. Ditto with your suggestion on the Klean Strip "Peeler"....and 69 cayo's suggestion of xylene. Something should work.
I hope to start the repair and upgrade of the water systems this week, but life keeps getting in the way.
By the way, congrats on keeping the Avion on the road. Takes a bit of dedication.
This thread already has a pretty good start , perhaps just add Avion to the title and call it good . You being the OP should make that decision.
'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed
I haven't taken any walls out so I don't know for sure , but it looks like the only thing holding the wall in place is the aluminum continuous angle that screws to the partition and the outer skin on both sides .
ticki2 wrote:
Sleepy , if you have more information on the galvanic action between ss and alum. I'd be very interested . A lot of boat hardware is now stainless steel so my thinking was that it was a good choice , perhaps not . The original screws were steel and not aluminum , I'm not sure what they were coated with but they did rust . I do know that galvinize and aluminum don't get along.
Sleepy , if you have more information on the galvanic action between ss and alum. I'd be very interested . A lot of boat hardware is now stainless steel so my thinking was that it was a good choice , perhaps not . The original screws were steel and not aluminum , I'm not sure what they were coated with but they did rust . I do know that galvinize and aluminum don't get along.
A very good explaination...
This one too
There are many formulations for SS... some better or worse than others
all contain nickle... maybe chrome
* This post was edited 05/17/11 08:34pm by sleepy *
69cayo wrote:
Garry I have that partition and will try to get a pic for you tommorow.
This will give you some idea what I'm saying................
and..............
Dennis
Garry I have that partition and will try to get a pic for you tommorow.
This will give you some idea what I'm saying................
and..............
Dennis
Thanks Dennis!!
Can you take a few pics of the front corners at the back of the cab, how they are constructed. I am still debating moving the front wall of my camper back one foot. It would save me a foot of charge on the ferry every trip, and help shift the weight forward some more, though it rides very nice as is, I will just have to keep my weight forward as much as possible. I need to see how it is constructed so I can see if I want to tackle it or not....
Thanks again!
Garry
Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper
an electrolytic present, the one with the lower number is
corroded. The galvanic action increases as the metals
are farther apart in the Galvanic Series. It is not always
true that there is greater corrosion the further down the
scale one goes. In certain cases one metal immediately
following another may be very corrosive.
Maybe someone on this forum can explain this. I have replaced many screws and other parts with stainless steel in order to avoid galvanic action. Did I make a mistake?
67avion wrote:
Sleepy, I don't really understand the article. It says: When any two metals in this list are in contact, with
an electrolytic present, the one with the lower number is
corroded. The galvanic action increases as the metals
are farther apart in the Galvanic Series. It is not always
true that there is greater corrosion the further down the
scale one goes. In certain cases one metal immediately
following another may be very corrosive.
Maybe someone on this forum can explain this. I have replaced many screws and other parts with stainless steel in order to avoid galvanic action. Did I make a mistake?
Sleepy, I don't really understand the article. It says: When any two metals in this list are in contact, with
an electrolytic present, the one with the lower number is
corroded. The galvanic action increases as the metals
are farther apart in the Galvanic Series. It is not always
true that there is greater corrosion the further down the
scale one goes. In certain cases one metal immediately
following another may be very corrosive.
Maybe someone on this forum can explain this. I have replaced many screws and other parts with stainless steel in order to avoid galvanic action. Did I make a mistake?
Lets look at this in a way you might alrady know:
One common example is an outboard boat motor.
If the foot that drops down into the water is made out of aluminum the small trim tab might be made out of magnesium. The easily replaced trim tab will be sacrificed to keep the aluminum foot from being corroded by the electrolis from galvonic action. Aluminum is higher on the list than magnesium.
If your boat is made out of aluminum and you accidently drop a handfull of copper pennies (coins) in contact with the aluminum floor of the boat, the the aluminm will corrode over time until there is a a hole in the boat. Copper is higher on the galvonic table than the aluminum.
Galvanic Table
Now the bad news... look at the galvanic table:
Find stainless steel...
you can see that it is much higher on the list than aluminum.
Yes, the galvanic action at the mating connections of the stainless/aluminum will corrode the aluminum of your beautiful aluminium camper.
The steel/aluminum corrosin will be fast around the salty oceans or in wet areas like the north west...
... and especially in areas with acid rains like where I live... coming from our coal fired electrical power plants (one of the reasons that we are getting smoke stack scrubbers to remove sulphur at the power plants)
(note, even the pH of distilled water is 4.7 not a neutral pH of 7 as most think. so it will accelerate galvanic action))
In the dry deserts the galvanic action is much slower... but still going on.
BTW... looking at the galvanic table... do you notice the words anode and cathode.... yes... just like an electrical battery poles. You can actually measure the current flow during galvanic action.... and electrical plating of metals can be done
I hope this helps... now you know why aluminum rivets are used in your camper, in airplanes, and boats.
sleepy
* This post was edited 05/18/11 02:37am by sleepy *
Just some hope for others that are restoring Avions that the correct aluminum is still available!
Garry in AK