Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Avion truck campers

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Topic: Avion truck campers - Hundreds of photos

Posted By: cajunavion on 01/11/16 11:50am

Howdy!
Step 1 complete.
Next up install OBA. Thinking of dissemble a 110V unit and
replace the compressor with an 12V. It seems much cheaper
than buying all the parts individually.

Posted By: SilverPompadour on 01/12/16 01:18pm

Now on to the interior...
[image]

I used poster board to create templates as suggested, worked very well. Exactly like sail making(broad-seaming). All four corners are roughly the same but I did leave the petals long and trimmed to fit after installing.
[image]

Thanks for the great suggestions as usual. It is always in my mind that this project would be 10x as much work if I did not have the expertise this forum provides.

1968 Avion C-11
1993 Dodge D250 LE Cummins

Posted By: ticki2 on 01/12/16 01:56pm

Very nice , you're on your way . Just a thought , think about where you want that bunk light , it's not in a very good place for reading ,if that matters to you .

'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed

Posted By: garryk6 on 01/12/16 02:19pm

SilverPompadour wrote:

Now on to the interior...
[image]

Thanks for the great suggestions as usual. It is always in my mind that this project would be 10x as much work if I did not have the expertise this forum provides.

WOW!!
That looks GREAT!!
I was wondering how to deal with my closet that is missing the fiberglass shell. It was previously cut out by the PO to bang out the dented rear.
What thickness aluminum did you go with? Did you just overlap the edges? Or did you flange or roll them?
Thanks!
Garry

Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper

Posted By: SilverPompadour on 01/12/16 04:12pm

I was going to leave the bunk lamp roughly where it was as I dont usually read in bed. Thanks for the heads up though, I'm not sure how I would handle being 200 rivets deep and discovering a change was necessary.
The aluminum sheet used was a 36"x 36" x .019". It was in stock at the 'local' home depot, 5 1/2 sheets to do what is in the pictures. On the visible face, the upper sheet just overlaps the one below. I did try a crimping tool on the tops of the first few petals but it didn't make much difference.
The petals I made all have a straight bottom edge, the upper edge is convex. The bottom edge is visible and a straight cut is the only one I can do cleanly. I found the final fitment to be extremely forgiving with even poorly cut pieces doing the job with room to spare. There is probably lack of symmetry as a result.
I've been thinking that I might have to remove a few(or all) of those shim strips on each rib behind the long upper curved interior panels. I read that they are there to prevent a crease where the long panel overlaps the much thicker plastic end caps. Thickness of plastic cap - thickness of new cap(.038) = x to be removed from shim stacks. Or am I just taking this too far?

Posted By: ticki2 on 01/12/16 04:57pm

SilverPompadour wrote:

I've been thinking that I might have to remove a few(or all) of those shim strips on each rib behind the long upper curved interior panels. I read that they are there to prevent a crease where the long panel overlaps the much thicker plastic end caps. Thickness of plastic cap - thickness of new cap(.038) = x to be removed from shim stacks. Or am I just taking this too far?

At first I removed those shims thinking the same thing . By the time all the end pieces where in place with their overlap and the vinyl J trim I had to put them back in so the ceiling and side panel didn't buckle . You can get an idea if it is going to line up by using a long straight edge across several ribs to see how it hits the new end panels . Those long side panels don't like a compound curve .

Posted By: D1trout on 01/12/16 10:53pm

Silver, great to see the aluminum end caps in place. Nicely done! A question about your choice of material: the original inner skin material is .032. The .019 would presumably be easier to handle. Do you think there would be any problem shaping and installing the "petals" with the thicker material, based on your experience?
Do you plan to use .032 for the main inner skin or stick with a lighter gauge? And how are you approaching the rivet issue? Refastening using the original holes using the old skin as your pattern? Randomingly drilling new holes? Or are you going to replace the old inner skin, the vinyl covered aluminum?
I'm thinking to use mill finish - a satin finish - in .032 from Airparts in Kansas. And I'm leaving the shims in place. The aluminum sheet shows wahwahs and deformities pretty easily. I think it's important to keep things straight and level, in whatever plane you're working in.
I remain impressed with the speed with which you're busting this out.
Onward!

Posted By: SilverPompadour on 01/13/16 07:51am

Thanks. OK, good to know the shimming really is an important detail. No such thing as going 'too far'.
Maybe sculpting Muley Point out of mashed potatoes at the dinner table?

I'm going to eye it up with a straight edge tonight. The use of .019" was mostly due to its availability and my impatience. Ticki2 might have used a thicker material for his petals as they had a coating. It might take a a few more clecos per petal and a pair of gloves with the thicker material but Im sure its doable.
I will be reusing the original vinyl coated skin and rivet holes as much as possible. The skin came out with minimal damage and Im willing to accept a few scratches and dents for the price. Not sure if the vinyl j strips are reusable and I might skip them entirely. The original skin will be my pattern for the visible rivet holes. At this moment the new end caps are just clecoed in, not ready to pull the trigger just yet.
The plan was to paint the new end caps and probably the entire interior skin to a single color once everything was installed. Now that I have seen the bright shine of the plain aluminum, I'm not so sure. The mill finish should look awesome. I wonder if there is a way to join the petal seams without rivets, that would look really sexy.
[image]

My speed will not produce the same high quality results as many of you have done on your projects. I am often OK with close enough, especially when it comes to aesthetics. Furthermore, the metaphorical winding path to Muley Point is becoming well worn and easier to follow with fewer rocks along the way.

Posted By: D1trout on 01/13/16 09:53am

Silver, regarding fastening parts on the Avion without rivets, I'm seriously considering using 3M VHB tape. Ck out the link below. It comes in different thicknesses, widths and properties. I think it would be an excellent means of attaching any skin panel, inside or outside the camper. The only question I have is placement - adjusting the piece into position before the adhesive gets too attached. I plan to call 3M Tech Service when I get to that point. It could be perfect for attaching the outer skin over the storage boxes I'm designing and building now. It would be great for inner skin and petals, assuming the fitting process can be mastered. Less rivets is a good goal I think. Anyway, ck it out:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Brands/3M-VHB-Tape/

Onward!

Posted By: SilverPompadour on 01/14/16 06:15am

The end caps are now riveted in. My straight edge suggested I leave all the shims in place despite the difference in thickness. I hung the two long panels with clecos to check the fit and it actually seems like a tight fit over the end caps when using the vinyl j strip. Although I dont understand why it worked, I cant argue with the results.
That 3M tape looks like it would be up to the task. It sounds like it would provide the continuity of a weld with the flexibility of rivets.
If one used a not so permanent tape to 'dry fit' the panels instead of clecos as in my last picture, alignment marks could be made on the petals. They could then be reassembled and installed using the VHB tape.
I must also change my position on crimping the top(hidden) edge of each petal. They worked without crimping but have a larger gap that when pulled together by the rivets, creates unsightly deflection. Not sure if a crimped surface would jive with the VHB?
[image]

The crimp tool is another off the shelf Home Depot item.

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