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Topic: Avion truck campers - Hundreds of photos

Posted By: cajunavion on 10/14/15 08:03am

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25053498/gotomsg/28605447.cfm#28605447
Howdy!
Rastaman, I may not be the best advisor on Engle placement.
I would install it like Garry did, in order for the limited counter realastate
to do double duty and it is cooling efficient.
I opted for a different overall approach. I took out the cabnits, counters, and
strip the inside down to the wings. Put the bathroom back in place
with a more transparent feel! I have one limited 3ft counter that contains reverse osmosis
water filtration, water storage, water heater, sink, microwave, coffee maker, plumbing valves, and outside connections. Less is more. We tend to use the camper for sleeping, living is mostly outside.
Engle stills lives in the cab, great for on-the-road snacks; its the portable chest unit.
i think it was Garry who summed up our hot-rod approach. Leave the outside vintage, and modernize the interior. Check out my photobucket. Hope this helps.


Posted By: 67avion on 10/28/15 04:11pm

I'm back in the USA after an unbelievable European trip in a Tonke truck Camper. Jane and I traveled through Holland, Germany and Denmark with my daughter who lives in Copenhagen.

The trip will be featured in Truck Camper Magazine after the first of the year, but here is a sampler.

We stopped in Worpswede, Germany, at a 150 year old brick barn that was topped by thatch. That's Jane on the left taking notes.

[image]

Outside our Northern German campground (campingplatz) were beautiful fields that I photographed in the morning light.

[image]

We stopped at an old church in Denmark.

[image]

And an ancient windmill in Holland

[image]

I was taking notes on the Danish beach in the North Sea, the back end of the luxurious Tonke opened and a Tuborg Danish Beer, when Jane snapped me

[image]

There is a lot to report from the trip, including the difficulties of communications. I tried to post on the Forum, but was unlucky most of the time.

BTW. Some of these photos are in the TCM calendar competition this year. I'd appreciate your consideration and vote. http://www.truckcampermagazine.com/2016-calendar-contest-photos-part-1

I am starting the negotiations with my insurance company over the damage to my Avion. I'll give a recounting of my experience at a later time.

* This post was edited 10/28/15 04:20pm by 67avion *






Posted By: sabconsulting on 10/29/15 03:46pm

That looks like a great spot - sitting there with a beer with the big side panel open looking onto the sea.

Looking forward to heading in that direction next year.

Steve.


'07 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab diesel + '91 Shadow Cruiser - Sky Cruiser 1
'98 Jeep TJ 4.0
'15 Ford Fiesta ST
'09 Fiat Panda 1.2



Posted By: ticki2 on 11/02/15 06:40am

rastaman33609 wrote:

Its been quiet here, am I the only one working on one of these things?




Yes it has . How about an update on your progress .


'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed


Posted By: rastaman33609 on 11/02/15 11:07am

ticki2 wrote:

rastaman33609 wrote:

Its been quiet here, am I the only one working on one of these things?




Yes it has . How about an update on your progress .


Ticki2...Thanks for inquiring, I was starting to think no one cared about these Avions anymore [emoticon]

I have gotten all the bad wood out of both wings and the bunk area. I have all the new wood cut and fitted in place.

Next to be done... the wood will be removed to get sealed and protected and then permanently installed.

For the wings I will be using 2 layers of 3/4" exterior ply.(budget did not allow for marine grade) I will be using CPES to seal the plywood, Then a generous coat of 'grabber' primer, then several coats of rustoleum industrial oil paint. The two layers of ply will be reinstalled using Silka glue and screws.

For the bunk area I will be using 1/2" exterior ply, Along the sides and plus in the middle, will be three pieces of 1x8 ceder boards running NS.The gaps will be filled with 1" foam pieces (similar to original) I had the rough cut ceder and it is the right thickness for a good fit with the ply and under the frame.Then a top sheet of 1/2 ply. The ply will also be protected as before.

I plan on using 3" L brackets attached to the ribs and the boards for support. I will also fit boards in between the ribs horizontally which will be screwed down to the boards through the frame.(same for the wings)

Below the front window a strip of 2"x2" 5'long aluminum angle will be attached to the front ribs and the boards.

I am basically using the original design for the bunk but with 'beefed up lumber' and extra supports.

How does that sound for a plan?....

After the wood is in place the tedious job of reinstalling will begin.
I will have to refinish the cabinets, new counter top,and interior paint.

Much more to do


Posted By: Downwindtracker2 on 11/02/15 11:54am

Make sure you use Canadian or American made exterior plywood, you never know what glue the Chinese used. Canadian is higher standard BTW. Marine grade fir plywood uses the same glue as exterior, just the voids are larger.

I use reject American made form ply, it's good stuff, just warped.


Adventure before dementia


Posted By: 67avion on 11/02/15 05:14pm

The plan sounds good. We put in 3/4 ply in the cabover without additional insulation. It was painted with poly especially on the edges (if I remember correctly). I didn't quite follow exactly how angle iron was being used. You might consider galvanic reaction issues. As to the exterior grade ply and the Chinese - that's pretty interesting. Sounds like the old degassing with formaldehyde business.

Stick with it. Everyone is still around.

D


Posted By: rastaman33609 on 11/02/15 06:12pm

67avion wrote:

The plan sounds good. We put in 3/4 ply in the cabover without additional insulation. It was painted with poly especially on the edges (if I remember correctly). I didn't quite follow exactly how angle iron was being used. You might consider galvanic reaction issues. As to the exterior grade ply and the Chinese - that's pretty interesting. Sounds like the old degassing with formaldehyde business.

Stick with it. Everyone is still around.

D


The angle will actually be aluminium, it will run horizontally below the front window, screwed into the front ribs and then into the wood frame just to give additional support. The original had screws through the channel all around, the channel doesn't seem too sturdy after all these years. I thought of using fender washers inside, however decided on wood inside the channel then the 'L' brackets and angle attached to the ribs for a little more support.


Posted By: ticki2 on 11/02/15 06:18pm

Sounds like you are making good progress . As long as the total thickness of the bunk floor is the same it should work fine . Since I didn't have to replace mine I don't know how the bunk floor was attached to the frame . I suspect it was screwed up from the bottom into the aluminum perimeter U channel , or perhaps down through the channel into the wood . I am not clear on the extra wood you want to add between the ribs . All my windows are framed with aluminum U channel so again not sure why you are adding 2"x2" alum angle under the front window . Some pictures would help clarify .


Posted By: rastaman33609 on 11/03/15 05:17am

ticki2 wrote:

Sounds like you are making good progress . As long as the total thickness of the bunk floor is the same it should work fine . Since I didn't have to replace mine I don't know how the bunk floor was attached to the frame . I suspect it was screwed up from the bottom into the aluminum perimeter U channel , or perhaps down through the channel into the wood . I am not clear on the extra wood you want to add between the ribs . All my windows are framed with aluminum U channel so again not sure why you are adding 2"x2" alum angle under the front window . Some pictures would help clarify .


Ticki2...hope to get some pics soon....they screwed down through the U channel into the wood (Same with the wings)They also used 2" L brackets at the ribs screwed into the rib/U channel into the wood.
Because of the deteriorated condition of the L brackets and U channel areas. I am thinking that strips of wood fitted into the U channel, screwed through,into the wood will provide more support.(instead of using fender washers)

The idea of the angle is that it will span the area under the window, rib to rib (at the bottom of the frame) It will be screwed into the ribs on either side of the window, then screwed into the floor. Providing support in the front center of the bunk, directly to the ribs.

yeh I know a pic is worth a thousand words....


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