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'04 R-Vision Trail-Lite 213
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My original bunk had 3, 1"x 4" boards running N to S over a thin sheet of plywood, then 1" Styrofoam sections in between then 1/4 inch ply on top.
I see some have replaced with 3/4' ply some even used 2 sheets.
My question..... Is the plywood attached to the front and sides of overhead frame, (screws?) or does it just float on the angle frame and do you also attach it to the rear frame of the bunk area.
What is the advantage of using thicker ply and not using the original design, It would seem adding all that additional weight up front could stress the structure.
If anyone has detailed pictures of the actual mounting, would be helpful. I find a lot of things are covered, but to a novice like be somethings I just cant visualize how to do it.
I am making great progress (I think), I have the electric figured out, and every thing works but the stove vent fan and the refidge. All the exterior lights are functional. I had to replace the bulb sockets in 2 of the original tail lamps using trailer lamp sockets.which I rivited in place.
I have cleaned all the old silicone off the roof vent and removed the satellite dish which left me with 4 holes in the roof, JB weld solved that problem. (is that ok?)
After repairing the Bunk floor I will pull out the old galvanized tank and start on the plumbing.
Thanks guys....still reading and learning.
Rastaman I called Cayo who recommended replacing
the original setup with 1/2 + 3/4 marine plywood. I extended
my bunk south so I could go queen. Yes I drove screws
into the bulkhead. No the original floats. The floor hangs
from the ceiling of these things!
I just replaced the cab-over bunk floor in mine and it started life as a 3/4" piece of plywood. I went the other direction and sandwiched 1x4 pine boards between two plywood sheets 1/4" thick. In the created cavities I placed foam insulation board. But then I live and play in potentially cold country!
My bunk was held together with support from the sides and front having nails stuck all along the plywood edge. And at the rear on top of the vertical cab wall. But all in all, the bunk floor is suspended from structure around and above. The original engineered design lasted 45+ years and on my rebuild I think I improved on that design.
I much prefer my insulated and arguably stronger bunk floor for a number of reasons. Mostly how the supporting fasteners are now into 1x material instead of plywood and are screws instead of nails.
Pick up the thread here if you are interested in the details of the floor removal and originality, then go here to pick up the same thread where I start replacing the bunk floor with the new one.
I have not had to replace my bunk floor but if I did I would stay with the original design . As Dave Pete mentioned the floor is not supporting the structure above but rather hung from the structure above , so lightness is a plus . By laminating ( screwed and glued ) the plywood skins , 1x ribs and insulation , you will obtain the stiffness required , and it will be insulated whether your environment is hot or cold . Also lamination tends to warp less than solid wood .
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ticki2 wrote:
Rastaman ,
I have not had to replace my bunk floor but if I did I would stay with the original design . As Dave Pete mentioned the floor is not supporting the structure above but rather hung from the structure above , so lightness is a plus . By laminating ( screwed and glued ) the plywood skins , 1x ribs and insulation , you will obtain the stiffness required , and it will be insulated whether your environment is hot or cold . Also lamination tends to warp less than solid wood .
Rastaman ,
I have not had to replace my bunk floor but if I did I would stay with the original design . As Dave Pete mentioned the floor is not supporting the structure above but rather hung from the structure above , so lightness is a plus . By laminating ( screwed and glued ) the plywood skins , 1x ribs and insulation , you will obtain the stiffness required , and it will be insulated whether your environment is hot or cold . Also lamination tends to warp less than solid wood .
Ticki2
that was my original thought, that the lighter the better, as long as it was strong enough to support the occupants weight. However some has said that Cayo has recommended 1/4 plus 3/4 ply...that's a lot of weight....now I am still undecided...
rastaman33609 wrote:
Ticki2
that was my original thought, that the lighter the better, as long as it was strong enough to support the occupants weight. However some has said that Cayo has recommended 1/4 plus 3/4 ply...that's a lot of weight....now I am still undecided...
Ticki2
that was my original thought, that the lighter the better, as long as it was strong enough to support the occupants weight. However some has said that Cayo has recommended 1/4 plus 3/4 ply...that's a lot of weight....now I am still undecided...
Either method will work , others here have built it solid . I think Cayo may be doing it their way for economics . To laminate it with insulation is more labor intensive . As a side note , my original floor is now 47 years old and flat as a pancake . Ya pays ya money and takes ya choice .
Also - the original 3/4" floor weighed ten pounds LESS than the new 1.25" (1/4" ply plus 3/4" 1 bys plus 1/4" ply) even with cavities filled with foam board. And that was BEFORE the extra paint finishes I added.