Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Avion truck campers

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Topic: Avion truck campers - Hundreds of photos

Posted By: D1trout on 01/18/14 11:42am

Here's the cabover plywood pic

Posted By: D1trout on 01/18/14 12:07pm

Given all the rot and the fact that the PO had repaired things that were starting to rot again, I determined to rebuild in a different way. I bought a Livin Lite Quicksilver pop-up trailer last spring for a summer jaunt around the Rockies. I had decided on that brand because of the all aluminum construction. So it has been an easy segue to envision how such a structure might be incorporated into an Avion. C11 Avion pointed out that all Avions suffer from plywood degradation. As the whole rig starts to shift and flex, this opens up the seams and allows water into the shell, and the whole downhill slide begins. The aluminum frame will stiffen things up, be waterproof, and, I hope, will prevent, or at least greatly limit leakage.

I detached the shell from the lower frame by suspending the shell from an A frame boat lift at the boatyard of a friend. I drilled out all the buck rivets at the lower edge of the vertical part of the shell, removed the lag screws holding the L brackets to the bottom rib all around, and with much wedging, wrenching, jerking, sawing and other machinations, the frame separated from the shell. It actually collapsed into it’s component parts as it came free of the shell: wings and sides as individual units, the floor as a unit. I had previously taken out the bulkhead at the front of the camper and sawed loose the two square plywood panels at the rear of the wings/sides.

You can see them stacked on the floor, on the dolly. I had thought to brace everything to keep it intact and have it come apart as a single piece but I realized that I would have to disassemble it for the welder in any case, so I took out the bracing and let it sag onto the dolly and pull apart.

GarryK6, your idea to hang the shell from a 2x12, with plywood panels at each end to spread the load across the ceiling and with eye bolts going up thru the two vent holes, was the perfect solution. I used chain to connect to the two eye bolts as the A frame wasn’t tall enough to use the block and tackle normally used on this lift. I just ran the chain over the top of the A frame and shackled each end to the eye bolt, got the camper as high in the air as possible with the camper jacks, cinched up the chain, and then lowered away, removing the timbers on the dolly as I went down so the frame could drop easily onto the dolly when it finally was detached from the shell. It was only a little sporty… I found to my surprise that the roof of the shell was solid enough to support me easily as I climbed around, securing chain and shackling things together, even though I have taken all the internal structure out. I guess it’s the load distribution of the 2x12 and plywood that makes it so solid.

Posted By: D1trout on 01/18/14 12:26pm

I have made templates of all the plywood parts drawn onto Tyvek. I traced the shape of the fiberglass bustle which I dropped out for repair and improvement a couple of weeks ago. Gary the welder is now fabricating the floor from 1.5” square aluminum tubing. He will bend it to conform to the curves at the corners as appropriate. I plan to check that the floor fits, then add the forward bulkhead, with a larger sliding window (those German Shepherds need access), then add sides and wings and finally the cabover frame. I built a little model out of foam-core poster board to help me visualize how things should best fit together.

I plan to face one side of each frame with an 1/8” white fiberglass sheet called Sequentia. It’s used to panel baths and kitchens. Then I will spray closed cell foam into the void, trim it and put another sheet of Sequentia on the top of the frame to create an aluminum-framed, foam-filled, fiberglass–faced sandwich. These frames will be welded together to form a single, rigid unit: wings, sides, floor, bulkhead, cabover, ends. The shell will then be thoroughly caulked and reattached to the frame with Olympic rivets.

I'm planning to use the aluminum panels that originally lined the outside of the wings and sides to make patches and reface the outside wings and sides with either Sequentia or perhaps aluminum diamond plate.

The curved extrusion that forms the bottom of the sides of the shell is pretty degraded in my rig. But I have determined that a 2 3/4" aluminum pipe cut in half fits into that curve perfectly, so it will be welded to the outer part of the wing frame and allow good solid attachment of the shell to the frame.

That's all from sunny California, where it has rained only 4" since July...
It's great for working outside on an Avion but not so great for everything else

67, thanks for your help with pics.

Dick

Posted By: 67avion on 01/18/14 12:43pm

OK. Here we go with another epic rebuild! This may prove to be one of the best judging from the methodical dismantling of the shell.

Now, I understand your mechanical steps. I presume you have thought through the wiring harnesses, power needs etc? Will you have an AC? Will you have power in the roof for fans? What about solar and its wiring?

Looking forward to seeing more. Glad that I could help with the pix.

D

Posted By: D1trout on 01/18/14 06:34pm

A few more random photos to make the process clear. Plus some pics of the door, whose construction is kind of scary. Here's one of the front of the support beam where it goes thru the vent hole:

This pic makes it clear why I am replacing all plywood with aluminum...

Here's a pic of the end of the wing plywood, inside the curved extrusion at the lower edge of the shell, where it curves beneath the wing. They cut the ply at a 45 degree angle to fit into the extrusion. Doesn't really inspire confidence in the strength and stability of the joint...

The outside aluminum panel from the right side wing and side. Because it's anodized, I'll use it for patching and reinforcing the shell and replace it with fiberglass sheets or aluminum diamond plate.

Here's the door opened up. Notice how the wood frame, which is 1 1/2" thick and 1" wide has rotted and how corrugated cardboard was used for reinforcing. Both were glued to the backside of the outer panel. The inside panel on mine has aluminum rust beneath the vinyl and will be replaced, tho I haven't decided with what yet. I plan to frame the door up with aluminum tubing and insulate with foam, just like all the frame panels.

67, you asked about electrics. My thought is go DC entirely, with a battery charger plug-in if I'm near an outlet. Sturdy marine-style solar panel on the roof, DC fridge, Fantastic vents fore and aft, clear Lexan, marine-style hatch at the former AC opening. Two AGM batteries in the former water heater compartment. Demand water heater mounted on the wall in the bath. I'm hoping to be able to utilize the existing wiring for much of this. I believe anything I need to add can be incorporated into the aluminum frames in flexi conduit as I go. Or maybe tucked into the half pipe that will form the outer edge of the wing frames inside that curved extrusion.

The floor in mine is plywood with some sort of coating painted on. I'm going to replace it with an aluminum diamond plate sheet. I'm wondering about drains. I know some Airstreams have them. Any ideas? If any water gets in, it's interesting to consider how it might get out...

Onward!

Dick

Posted By: Photog101 on 01/20/14 02:41pm

My only concern about an all aluminum diamond plate sheet for the floor is that there will be no thermal barrier. If it is hot out, the floor will also be hot. AND if it is cold out, that floor will be cold. Maybe a sheet of plywood on top of the diamond plate will put the thermal barrier back into play.

Just a thought.

Posted By: 67avion on 01/20/14 03:26pm

D1 - sooner or later weight becomes an issue. With your replacement of the relatively light weight wood with sturdier but heavier metal, I wonder what the net increase in weight will be?

As to the floor of the tub, I suggest that you consider marine plywood - well sealed - as the substrate. Garry6 and I have both used Allure Ultra. It comes in a bewildering number of finishes and is waterproof. I found it to be a perfect covering on our various trips that have included rain and snow.

I placed a chase for the wiring on either wing that extends into the cabinets in the rear and front. You WILL have things in the future that you need to hook up to power - and fishing a chase is the easy way to solve the problem.

* This post was edited 01/20/14 03:43pm by 67avion *

Posted By: D1trout on 01/20/14 07:14pm

Gents, thanks for your observations. I'm going to ask Gary to weld up a sample frame panel, say 3'x3', of the 1 1/2" square tubing and experiment with the assembly process: Caulking, attaching the Sequentia 1/8" fiberglass sheet to it, foaming the interior. I'll also trying drilling a couple of small holes, starting with maybe 1/2" diameter in one of the tubing sections and see if I can fill the tube with spray-in foam once everything is welded up. That would go a long way to stabilizing temps in the rig. I realize I have to figure how to isolate the outer aluminum skin from the inner. I am not going to attach the diamond plate directly to the outer side of the aluminum frame without putting some sort of insulator on first.
As to weight, I don't think it's an issue. Here's why: the factory plywood frame was two layers of primarily 3/8", netting 3/4". A 4x8 sheet of 3/4" ply equals 75 pounds. There are the equivalent of about 5 4x8 sheets in the factory frame. Thus I have about 400 pounds of weight to work with to stay within broad factory parameters.
The tubing weighs 0.8 pounds per foot. I'm figuring about 200' of tubing in the frames.
There's 160 pounds. The Sequentia fiberglass panels are 20 pounds each and about 10 sheets will be used for a 200 pound total. So I'm in the neighborhood of 360 pounds, plus foam and fasteners. It's all good!
Electrics: I haven't thought much about it yet, except to number and label every wire as I disassembled the rig. I'll definitely put chases in. That's very good advice, 67. I'm thinking about conduit in strategic places.
I have the '68 wiring diagram that's widely available. Is there a '69 version around or is it the same?
Thanks for your feedback.
Onward!
Dick

Posted By: 67avion on 01/21/14 11:39am

As best that I can tell, the 1968 Avion "Operation and Service Manual" is the same as 1969. I appear to have three versions, but they all contain much the same information.

I would think hard about not having a 110v capacity. There are many times that it has come in handy. I have 3 AGM batteries located under the seat. So far my rig, when holding its capacity of water, etc, seems to be balanced east to west and north to south. You may have to calculate that in your weight distribution.

I placed a vent in the old AC opening. I think that your idea of an escape hatch/light source is a better concept.

I'm impressed with your thorough planning as to weight and other issues. Keep it up.

D

Posted By: 69 Avion on 01/21/14 08:35pm

67avion wrote:

I agree. It doesn't take much to put in the 110 volt wire since there isn't much in the Avion anyway. Almost everything runs on 12v but you want the ability to use 110 volt appliances and electronics. When I fire up the 1,000 watt Yamaha generator I take full advantage of the 110 volt infrastructure while the generator is on.

Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel
1988 Avion Triple Axle Trailer
1969 Avion C-11 Camper

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