Your heater experience seems like a conspiracy of circumstances and I'll look forward to your unravelling the aspects and coming up with a workable solution.
BTW, that was a very fine trip journal and very fine pics. Thanks for sharing it.
Dick
D1trout wrote:
Perhaps he just ran it out onto the ground..?? Or had his hose in a dump hole at a campground..??
Perhaps he just ran it out onto the ground..?? Or had his hose in a dump hole at a campground..??
Avion's never had grey water tanks, and yes in the old days, grey water had a small hose connection for a garden hose to direct your grey water under the truck, or just down to the ground without dribbling down the side of the truck or camper.
D1trout wrote:
And, 67, based on your recent experience in Big Bend in the blue norther, what's your current thinking about catalytic heaters?
And, 67, based on your recent experience in Big Bend in the blue norther, what's your current thinking about catalytic heaters?
Many of us have used Catalytic heaters. You are new enough that you may not have read about the "maiden voyage" we took our Avion on here in Alaska over one Thanksgiving. Tempertures never got above freezing, and it was our whole family of 6 camping in the truck and camper! Here is the link
Alaskan Thanksgiving for a family of 6 in a 1966 Avion Truck Camper!
Hope this helps!
Garry in Kodiak, AK
Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper
D1Trout wrote:
Oh, and by the way, can you tell me which of the photobucket links I click on to paste an actual picture into a message on this forum?
Oh, and by the way, can you tell me which of the photobucket links I click on to paste an actual picture into a message on this forum?
Here is the way that I post photos using Photobucket.
1) Process the image for internet/web which is 72 dpi. That is, you take your picture and photoshop it for cropping, contrast, color etc.
2) If it is horizontal then make it 640 pixels, if vertical then 480 pixels.
3) Open up Photobucket and upload the pix that you want to put on the site.
4) Now go to the RV.Net site and open the comment box. Write your comments and where you want a photo to appear you first click on the photo in Photobucket in your "libary"....You'll see a little window below the photo on the right side. Click on that window and it will turn blue, the color of a Blue Norther...
5) Copy the photo by clicking on (Apple) Command C. That is the copy mode.
6) Now go to the RV.Net window where you are writing and put the cursor down a line or two and (Apple) Command V (Paste)
7) you will see the code immediately....
Note that the code appears to be duplicative. Let that not worry your soul or stop your progress.
Now continue to write your narrative and upload photos and copy them to the window.
Looking forward to seeing your pix.
Dennis, thanks for the photobucket info. Fortunately I've mastered copy and paste! And I find that I can resize my pics in photobucket to fit the web criteria.
Stand by for rotten plywood pics!
Regarding Steve at Vintage Trailer and deanodizing, I have been in conversation with a fellow here in the SF Bay Area who runs a business called Avalon RV. They restore and rebuild old aluminum rigs. He has deanodized a couple of trailers in the past few years. He uses some commercial chemical product rather than EasyOff. I haven't gone farther than that with him but have seen some chemical products referenced on the internet. He did tell me that he would charge $900 to deanodize a C11. This does not include polishing.
Onward!
Dick
D1trout wrote:
Gary, thanks for the link to your outing. It looked cold...Regarding heating, I see you ran an additional 1500W heater. Do you think you would you have been happy with just the catalytic heater?
Dick
Gary, thanks for the link to your outing. It looked cold...Regarding heating, I see you ran an additional 1500W heater. Do you think you would you have been happy with just the catalytic heater?
Dick
Even with all the added insulation, we would have not survived well with only the Wave. Partly because too much moisture is added when running the Wave. I would think if I had installed a Wave 6, then I would have been able to leave the roof vents open more to vent the moisture, and still have the BTU's to heat the camper. The Avion has a few minor downfalls for really cold camping. The aluminum framing ribs conduct the cold through and the heat out. If you looked at a few of the pics of our winter trip, you could see the ribs from running the electric heater all night. The nice thing with the electric heater, is that the vents could be closed most of the way down, with just a crack open if we were sleeping, as we give off moisture as we breath. We still had some pretty good icing. From the rib areas, from the floor as I had not insulated that area yet. from the side wing area that makes the outer portion of the dinette. If you have the room for and the weight capacity and the $$, the Atwood Everest Star (LINK) 12/16/18K BTU series of furnaces are only 23lbs, take up very little room, have a small discharge duct at the back, but would require 12V for the fan to make it run. I do not plan to get rid of the Wave, as it works well except for extreme cold, but I am thinking of saving up for the Everest heater so that it is a dry heat for periods of time camping.
I hope this makes sense! And for those near bigger places that have RV used parts, this series heater was popular in tent trailers and pop up campers, as it is small, plenty of heat for these rigs, and due to moisture/dry-rot, tend to get parted out, so you could find a good used one for much less $$.
Good Luck!
Garry,
Kodiak, Alaska
Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel
1988 Avion Triple Axle Trailer
1969 Avion C-11 Camper
sleepy wrote:
If your boat is made out of aluminum and you accidently drop a handfull of copper pennies (coins) in contact with the aluminum floor of the boat, the the aluminm will corrode over time until there is a a hole in the boat. Copper is higher on the galvonic table than the aluminum.
Now the bad news... look at the galvanic table:
Find stainless steel...
you can see that it is much higher on the list than aluminum.
Yes, the galvanic action at the mating connections of the stainless/aluminum will corrode the aluminum of your beautiful aluminium camper.
The steel/aluminum corrosin will be fast around the salty oceans
67avion wrote:
Sleepy, I don't really understand the article. It says: When any two metals in this list are in contact, with
an electrolytic present, the one with the lower number is
corroded. The galvanic action increases as the metals
are farther apart in the Galvanic Series. It is not always
true that there is greater corrosion the further down the
scale one goes. In certain cases one metal immediately
following another may be very corrosive.
Maybe someone on this forum can explain this. I have replaced many screws and other parts with stainless steel in order to avoid galvanic action. Did I make a mistake?
Sleepy, I don't really understand the article. It says: When any two metals in this list are in contact, with
an electrolytic present, the one with the lower number is
corroded. The galvanic action increases as the metals
are farther apart in the Galvanic Series. It is not always
true that there is greater corrosion the further down the
scale one goes. In certain cases one metal immediately
following another may be very corrosive.
Maybe someone on this forum can explain this. I have replaced many screws and other parts with stainless steel in order to avoid galvanic action. Did I make a mistake?
If your boat is made out of aluminum and you accidently drop a handfull of copper pennies (coins) in contact with the aluminum floor of the boat, the the aluminm will corrode over time until there is a a hole in the boat. Copper is higher on the galvonic table than the aluminum.
Now the bad news... look at the galvanic table:
Find stainless steel...
you can see that it is much higher on the list than aluminum.
Yes, the galvanic action at the mating connections of the stainless/aluminum will corrode the aluminum of your beautiful aluminium camper.
The steel/aluminum corrosin will be fast around the salty oceans
It is true that copper and aluminum do not mix. The common technique to avoid this problem with wiring grounds is to use stainless steel connectors to isolate the copper from the aluminum. This is the same advice given to me by a profession aluminum tank builders for boats.
If stainless/aluminum junction for a ground wire is not a problem in a salt air and water environment, then I feel very safe using it in any application.
I would not be the least concerned about using stainless fastners on aluminum.
I have had problems on boats in salt water, the problem being the parts would seize up and be difficult to remove--no significant enlargement of the holes after 40 years in a salt water environment. It is more like they were welded together. Parts cannot be freed up without drilling them out. Makes me think rivets would be better in these applications.
I would also use Never Seize to ensure these parts can come apart later.
So the galvanic table is a bit out of sequence, I can tell you that from practical experience and a lifetime working on the water. With all my time on the water, I love stainless steel. I use it wherever I can.
I also favor the use of closed aluminum rivets over stainless.
In my case I have hundreds of rusted steel bolts holding in windows and a door on my camper, with the funny vintage hourglass screw heads. I hate the look of rusted machine screw heads everywhere.
I will be replacing these with stainless steel security bolts or else just using aluminum rivets
69 Avion wrote:
I wonder if Avion would have used some Armaflex tape on the interior of the ribs before installing the interior skin, if it would have helped with the heat transfer?
I wonder if Avion would have used some Armaflex tape on the interior of the ribs before installing the interior skin, if it would have helped with the heat transfer?
They did ! At least on mine they did, but it was between the exterior skin and the ribs.
It's not going to help very much because everywhere there's a rivet you have a direct path for heat/cold.
Dennis
69cayo wrote:
They did ! At least on mine they did, but it was between the exterior skin and the ribs.
It's not going to help very much because everywhere there's a rivet you have a direct path for heat/cold.
Dennis
69 Avion wrote:
I wonder if Avion would have used some Armaflex tape on the interior of the ribs before installing the interior skin, if it would have helped with the heat transfer?
I wonder if Avion would have used some Armaflex tape on the interior of the ribs before installing the interior skin, if it would have helped with the heat transfer?
They did ! At least on mine they did, but it was between the exterior skin and the ribs.
It's not going to help very much because everywhere there's a rivet you have a direct path for heat/cold.
Dennis
I didn't take the skin off of mine, so I don't know what is in there. The old Avions had aluminum rivets everywhere, whereas the newer trailers had them spaced out at a much larger distance.