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| Topic: Avion truck campers - Hundreds of photos |
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Posted By: Desertboy
on 10/14/13 11:30pm
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D1trout wrote: Fellow travelers, I posted about driving my C11 home from MN to CA week before last. Since arriving home I have begun serious investigations into it's(her ?) inner condition. The cab over bed was totally rotten, wet even. I pulled everything out, down to bare aluminum. There are soft spots in the floor and I'm certain most of the wood in the rig is rotted or well on its way to being so. As I've removed things, I've been musing on how best to deal with the rot issue. It seems to me that perhaps removing the entire floor, wings, the vertical sides of the wings, and the bulkhead at the front of the camper and replacing all those parts with an aluminum floor, wings, sides and bulkhead might be a particularly effective way to both eliminate the concern about rotted wood, to stabilize the entire structure, and, when all seams are recaulked, to eliminate or minimize leaks. To not have any wood in the rig except cabinets would be a boon; water might get in but wouldn't cause any damage. The rig would be rigid on the new metal foundation and thus more easily and effectively sealed. I'm imagining aluminum tube/pipe could be used for the outer frame to accommodate the curved lower edge of the body. The original horizontal panels could be reinstalled over the new frame to restore the classic look. I'm certain I'm not the first Avion owner to come to this. I would welcome observations/ideas/suggestions on this approach. If I use the custom car restoration model, where the final vehicle cost is 3x the initial purchase price, it seems a realistic, feasible approach. I just noticed this post, I don't have any rot I don't think, But like you I believe this needs a aluminum floor under it. You may could call a place that makes aluminum Horse trailers and have one solid floor custom cut to fit, with aluminum tubing tig welded around the upper face side of floor. Then you could simply raise the whole floor with jacks up in to the camper and screw in to this tubing from the sides all the way around. 1969 AVION 3/4 12 VALVE Freightliner/24' Flatbed 50,000 miles/ Titan 4000 receiver Hitch, no Mods needed. |
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Posted By: 67avion
on 10/15/13 07:53am
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D1trout and Desertboy: My best advice at this moment is for you to go to the top of this string and read all 171 pages. I think that you will see every issue discussed at some point. Believe me that the time it takes to read this will save you money and time on your restorations. D1trout, sorry about the rot. But that is what most people find in the 50 year old campers. You need to have a clear plan of what you are going to do or you will become distressed over the amount of work and just give up, or you will spend way too much money and just give up....or both. The same goes for Desertboy....though it appears in his case that its a relatively simple and straightforward task. He found a gem that takes 200+ hours of work to de-anodize, isn't that right C11? If you value your labor at $50 an hour, then you're looking at $10,000 in equivalent value. Don't be hesitant to ask questions and engage the people on the Forum. But, read the string first.
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Posted By: 69 Avion
on 10/15/13 07:53am
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D1trout wrote: Fellow travelers, I posted about driving my C11 home from MN to CA week before last. Since arriving home I have begun serious investigations into it's(her ?) inner condition. The cab over bed was totally rotten, wet even. I pulled everything out, down to bare aluminum. There are soft spots in the floor and I'm certain most of the wood in the rig is rotted or well on its way to being so. As I've removed things, I've been musing on how best to deal with the rot issue. It seems to me that perhaps removing the entire floor, wings, the vertical sides of the wings, and the bulkhead at the front of the camper and replacing all those parts with an aluminum floor, wings, sides and bulkhead might be a particularly effective way to both eliminate the concern about rotted wood, to stabilize the entire structure, and, when all seams are recaulked, to eliminate or minimize leaks. To not have any wood in the rig except cabinets would be a boon; water might get in but wouldn't cause any damage. The rig would be rigid on the new metal foundation and thus more easily and effectively sealed. I'm imagining aluminum tube/pipe could be used for the outer frame to accommodate the curved lower edge of the body. The original horizontal panels could be reinstalled over the new frame to restore the classic look. I'm certain I'm not the first Avion owner to come to this. I would welcome observations/ideas/suggestions on this approach. If I use the custom car restoration model, where the final vehicle cost is 3x the initial purchase price, it seems a realistic, feasible approach. I have mentioned before that an Avion upper camper with the wings and below built like a Livin Lite, with aluminum tubing, would be the ultimate camper. What is funny is that Thor industries owns Airstream and now Livin Lite and they haven't done it. Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel 1988 Avion Triple Axle Trailer 1969 Avion C-11 Camper |
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Posted By: Desertboy
on 10/15/13 10:08am
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I agree with both 67 Avion/ And 69 Avion, I will read the whole thread also, I have zero experience with campers but Ive had my share of renovating old buildings and homes, One thing 67 mentioned that makes a lot of sense is that you always find the unexpected when you start removing old material. So what you have to due is look at all the threads you can find with pictures of the rotten components, And what these campers were originally made of. Visualize the dimensions, the outer skin/ the ribs/ the wiring/Visualize it with all the floor out. As you go in to it you will find more and more that you would replace. If I ever rebuild I will go in to it with the mindset of taking it down to a skeleton and removing the foam and all and first thing I would do is spray the entire inside with a Industrial grade epoxy paint or something to seal it from the inside out, Then wire and plumb it, Then buy a commercial spray foam and foam it. This alone would strengthen the entire skeleton and shell, Then go back with a reinforced aluminum floor which would also reduce overall weight. At this point its dried in. I would then slow down and take my time and do one of 2 things/ I would go back entirely original right down to the color of curtains/ Or I would change everything and use my own cedar lumber that I cut and trim it out entirely in cedar/ Either would be a Mater piece, And built to last another 50 years. Whatever you do , its worth it in the end! But before I do anything Ill read the thread and everything I can at every other forum. Its always good to look at other peoples pictures and projects to see what you wouldn't try. One things for sure with me, The outside will be original, except maybe a AC.
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Posted By: Desertboy
on 10/15/13 10:32am
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Here is a good link if I can make it clickable lol, I just stumbled on to it but it has a wealth of info in pictures alone because it tells you whats inside the walls which was my major concern, and I was quite relieved to learn what it was. Because its material I can work with and strengthen and make it better and stronger than it ever was. Im a metal type of guy, I can do a little wood working, But most of my experience has been metal framing and sheet metal work, and so I breathed a sigh of relief when I saw all the inner components. These old campers are like Gems to me. I just like old things. www.austinsailor.net/camper/avion.html http://www.austinsailor.net/camper/avion.html |
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Posted By: Desertboy
on 10/15/13 11:01am
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Wow, now I see what you mean about reading this thread, I had been impatient with all these pages and went looking elsewhere, Everything I need is here. I had no Idea silicone could harm aluminum, Good save! This thread is a wealth of information.
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Posted By: 67avion
on 10/15/13 03:31pm
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I got a PM the other day from one of the new Avion owners. His question had to do with the installation of a Corian countertop. I suggested that I write about it here so that others can have a notion of what we did. First here is a before and after photo of the kitchen area of the camper:![]() ![]() ![]() I found an installation photo where we were dry fitting the Corian. The things that are critical include the scribing of the countertop. We used the old one as a guide, but its really measure 10 times and cut once. Note that we turned the corner on the left side of the counter. You can get the edges of the Corian finished in a number of shapes. We used the original edge and sanded it down. Then we had a long discussion about the proper way of placing the Corian on the refinished counter top. First of all, this installation has to take into account the flexing of the camper. We decided to glue several 3/4" cleats in stategic places that would hold snug on the interior of the counter. Corian can be worked like wood in terms of cutting and fasteners. Once the counter top was set into place, we carefully raised it and put a seam of silicon caulk on all of the vertical surfaces that would come into contact. Then the counter top was lowered into place and tapped into position. We then replaced the moulding that had been removed from the original counter. It served to sandwich the counter tops in place. Of course, its the last thing that you do in the process of renovation. We had formed the stainless steel backspash and placed it prior to the counter top, and we had carefully measured the cut outs for the sink and stove. So far, we have not seen any issues with the installation and the camper has been over some rough ground. * This post was edited 10/16/13 02:23pm by 67avion * |
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Posted By: Desertboy
on 10/15/13 04:12pm
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Very Nice indeed
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Posted By: 69 Avion
on 10/15/13 05:07pm
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67avion, very nice job on the Corian counter top. I had a Formica top made for my camper and I had them use the old one as a pattern. They called and warned me that it was out of square but I had them go ahead. What a mistake. The cabinet was out of square the to camper because the water filler wouldn't let the cabinet go in far enough on the front side. I made an aluminum angle brace in order to pull the entire counter outward to make it square and then I had to make the Formica top fit. I sure would have been upset to ruin a Corian top because of the inferior workmanship of the original installation. If I ever redo it again, I will go Corian next time. My wife has a problem with the camper being nicer than her kitchen. She made me put in the same faucet in her kitchen that I put in the camper.LOL
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Posted By: Desertboy
on 10/15/13 05:44pm
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I wonder if I can buy a Bottom cap for my camper?
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