Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Avion truck campers

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Topic: Avion truck campers - Hundreds of photos

Posted By: NJAvion on 08/02/13 09:00am

rfuerst - When I spoke to Mr. Cayo at the repair shop in Watervliet, Michigan (he is the grandson of the Avion TC inventor, I believe) he said he does his wing repairs with three layers of 1/2" plywood. "Stagger the seams, glue it, screw it" were his instructions.

I used 1/2" CDX (if I did it over I would go marine-grade for the extra water resistance) being careful to cut each piece to fit as far into the frame lip as possible. I did one layer at a time but then glued them more or less all at once. This involved a lot of sweating and cursing. I had to pare down the outer edges of the top boards to fit under the aluminum lip, and I hammered them in tight. My thinking was that when the jacks are supporting the TC, most of the weight will be transferring from the wood to the frame in that spot and you don't want much room for travel.

I think it would probably work to do what you're planning as long as everything is tight and that inside framing block is in good condition. Though when I got to the point you're at, I just decided to go all the way. Once all the boards were glued in tight and dry, I hammered in finishing nails through the top of the tub wall, between the old staples.

Good luck!

Posted By: 67avion on 08/02/13 10:13am

I never got to the point where I replaced an entire wing. But we did replace sections and beefed up the areas where the jacks are located.

I recall a lot of conversation, led by Ticki2 I believe, about the nature of the construction of the Avion. Maybe also 69Avion. The gist of it was the strength of the exterior walls distributing the weight up, over and around the coach. The cantilever that is formed by the wings is potentially a weak point where it attaches to the tub. Makes sense that jacks would transfer a lot of weight. Most of the weight is vertical but there is pressure at the seam of the tub. One reason why its best to have the coach properly supported when off the truck.

I'm no engineer so these things are a bit mysterious to me. I think that the advice to "stagger the seams, glue it, screw it" is well taken. But I would try to find ways of shoring up the strength even more.

I did design new supports for the jacks that distribute the weight far wider, and deeper, than the OEM jacks. And be sure to caulk like a man possessed. If water gets into the area around the jacks...well you know the rest.

I sure would like to see the photos of your work. PM me if there is anything I can do to help you post images.

Posted By: garryk6 on 08/02/13 01:53pm

rfuerst911sc wrote:

OK guys need some advice. I'm now in the planning stage of how I'm going to replace the passenger side wing. I have the entire outer perimeter removed with all foam removed. The bottom layer of 1/4 " plywood I cut it in half length wise because the portion towards the outside was spotty ( soft ) but the inside that is stapled to the inner cleat is rock solid. So I'm going to piece ( butt joint ) the bottom 1/4 " layer ( new to old ) and then start laying up the balance which will overlap the butt joint. It may not be ideal but once every layer is glued up, screwed along the outer perimeter top and bottom and finally sandwhiched with through bolts for the Stable Lift top plate I don't think it's going anywhere. So should I lay this up with foam like the factory or do it all in plywood ? I'm going to have to do the layup in place vs. outside the camper so may do a layer one day, let it dry and do the next layer etc. until done. Anyone else done it this way ?

Well, if you happen to be carrying the Avion on a Ford superduty, the Avion needs a bit more height to clear the cab. The PO of my C-10 went overkill. but because he did, I do not have a height problem, and I have a place for my grey water tank and hopefully soon a place for the second grey water tank. (Waiting to have the second one built...)
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Here is how the PO handled supporting the rear wings!
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And if you look carefully in the next picture you can see a sliver of aluminum color above the TT steps that I mounted to the 2x4 and 3/4" plywood floor. I removed the floor, then notched the 2x4's to allow a piece of 3/8"x 3'x3' aluminum plate to sit into the floor joists, then screwed the 3/4" plywood over the aluminum and into the 2x4's. Then I used very long bolts with large washers and bolted the steps all the way up through the camper floor. Then I put the flooring over the top of the reliefs I had sunk for the fender washers. so no fasteners are visible that hold the steps. And I have had people who weigh well over 350lbs come up the steps and they held!
[image]

My Grey Water tanks were custom built by mt son at the highschool welding shop. They are 3.5" high, 22" wide and 48" long. The first is done and installed the second one is still partially done awaiting ordering more aluminum plate. (a 4x10 sheet of 1/8" plate is almost $300 here in Alaska...)
And most people don't see any thing differant about the Camper, as the trimming of the tub hides most of the added height. Mine did not come with the rear fiberglass, so I have to still make a cover for my drain plumbing.

Here is my small greywater line and isolation valve going into the self-contained electric recirculating toilet drain.
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And here is the "Tee" that goes up the floor joists to the 14 gallon grey water tank. The left line goes to pick-up the Sink Drain that drops down through the Closet floor.
[image]

Here is the drop out of the closet floor and the grade shot across to the passengers side of the truck to the standard 3" waste outlet.
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Here you can see just barely the sewer/grey water combined drain to the passengers side of the camper. Eventually I'll build a cover for the base of the rear of the camper. The reason we're so dirty, is just spending 130+ miles on the Denali Highway. A gravel two-track, and occasionally single track road from Paxston Alaska to Cantwell Alaska. This is how you got to Denali Park before the Parks highway was built!
[image]

Hopefully this gives you an idea of what can be done to make these campers very functional!

Best regards,
Garry K in Kodiak, Alaska

Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper

Posted By: rfuerst911sc on 08/02/13 02:44pm

Today I purchased some supplies. I have cut to size a bottom layer of 1/4 " plywood, a second layer of 1/4 " and then a third layer of 1/2 " plywood. I did a strip of varnish ( 2 coats ) top and bottom of each layer on the outer perimeter. Tomorrow I will install these three layers with a aluminum gutter seal caulk on the perimeter edge and Titebond 3 waterproof glue on each face of plywood. I will brace the aluminum skin of the wing so it is fairy strong and go to town. Will use stainless steel " lathe " screws with a large head with rubber washers to stop galvanic corrosion and a touch of caulk. Cinch it all down and let it dry. Then will finish with either two more layers of 1/4 " or one layer of 1/2 ". I'm done over thinking this project it's time to get it done. I'm sure my approach will last another 40 - 45 years and that's good enough for me !

Posted By: 67avion on 08/02/13 04:17pm

rfuerst911sc wrote:

I'm done over thinking this project it's time to get it done. I'm sure my approach will last another 40 - 45 years and that's good enough for me !

Well, that's the spirit. Get 'er done!

Posted By: ticki2 on 08/02/13 06:56pm

rfuerst911sc wrote:

Once you built it up to the original thickness with all wood it should be stronger than original. Just curious why you chose to use two layers of 1/4" and one 1/2" as opposed to two layers of 1/2" ?

'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed

Posted By: 69 Avion on 08/02/13 10:27pm

Remember to get plywood with the most plys that you can find. It is stronger.

Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel
1988 Avion Triple Axle Trailer
1969 Avion C-11 Camper

Posted By: rfuerst911sc on 08/03/13 05:16am

ticki2 wrote:

rfuerst911sc wrote:

Once you built it up to the original thickness with all wood it should be stronger than original. Just curious why you chose to use two layers of 1/4" and one 1/2" as opposed to two layers of 1/2" ?

The reason I went with two layers of 1/4 " is because when I was removing all the old wood/foam the closer I got to the bottom the better the wood looked. After staring at the bottom layer of 1/4 " I decided to take a circular saw and rip it length wise front to back. So what I ended up with is a piece of original plywood about 8 " wide which is nailed/stapled to the inside cleat. I didn't think there was going to be much of an advantage tearing this out. So my first new layer of 1/4 " will butt up to the original. There will be very little strength it really is just a spacer layer. The next layer of 1/4 " spans the entire length/width and here's where the strength will begin. This layer will be glued face to face with the spacer layer. Then the next layer will be 1/2 " once again glued face to face. I will use 1 " long screws along the perimeter from the bottom in the OEM holes to draw this 1 " layer down tight to the skin. Will place a few screws in the center of the skin on the bottom plus add weight on the inside. Let that dry for a few days and finish with either two layers of 1/4 " or one layer of 1/2 ". Once the top layer is complete new screws will be installed from the top down to tie in the bottom aluminum wall plate. And finally the Stable Lift system that I will be installing will thru bolt this plywood structure the entire length so weight distribution will be spread over the entire area, I doubt there will be much flex.

Posted By: rfuerst911sc on 08/03/13 05:20am

Another question; When installing steel lift jack plates to the bottom of the aluminum skinned wings what should you use to stop galvanic corrosion ? If the factory used anything it didn't appear to work that good in my case but it can be saved. So what should you use ? I'm thinking some type of thin rubber/vinyl ?

Posted By: ticki2 on 08/03/13 06:47am

I used a product called Ice Shield that is used under roof shingles . It's a bituminous material , sticky on one side and smooth on the other . It comes in big rolls which you don't need , look for someone building near by and ask for some scrapes .

Almost anything non-metallic will do .

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