Interesting approach , please do a follow up and let us know how it worked . These old tanks are all going to need help eventually .
Question , why not use a bolt on flange to the tank as original so you would have a mechanical joint in addition to the epoxy ?
'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed
When I first checked out my original plastic tank I was real happy that it didn't leak and it didn't look cracked. After I put all the plumbing back together is when it started leaking. Once I removed it, I noticed hundreds of tiny cracks.
Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel
1988 Avion Triple Axle Trailer
1969 Avion C-11 Camper
69 Avion wrote:
I designed the custom tank and Premier Industries built it for $450. I know that isn't cheap, but it was cheaper than any other custom alternative that I could find...
I designed the custom tank and Premier Industries built it for $450. I know that isn't cheap, but it was cheaper than any other custom alternative that I could find...
Considering that was custom it sounds a pretty good price to me - very nice tank.
Steve.
'07 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab diesel + '91 Shadow Cruiser - Sky Cruiser 1
'98 Jeep TJ 4.0
'15 Ford Fiesta ST
'09 Fiat Panda 1.2
ticki2 wrote:
Question , why not use a bolt on flange to the tank as original so you would have a mechanical joint in addition to the epoxy ?
Question , why not use a bolt on flange to the tank as original so you would have a mechanical joint in addition to the epoxy ?
The epoxy joint is stronger than the tank walls -- there's at least 5 square inches of bond surface on the flange, and that stuff has a tensile strength of 7300 PSI. So the bond strength is somewhere around 36,500 pounds and in practice that means something else will give first, bolts or no bolts. (And that's just for the flange, not including the layer of fabric on top of it. I'll post more pics.)
But the real reason I didn't is that bolts concentrate stress at the bolt head and, without some thought given to distributing the stress, could lead to a crack at the bolt head.
1971 Cayo C-11 truck camper, 2010 Airstream Classic, 1997 Chevrolet K2500, 2004 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 8.1.
69 Avion wrote:
Besides, my original tank wasn't supported on the front side because someone cut the hole, for the tank, too large.
Besides, my original tank wasn't supported on the front side because someone cut the hole, for the tank, too large.
On my rig the tank slides around in the square hole.
I'm planning on bedding the tank in some "great stuff" urethane foam once I'm done epoxying it. I'll wipe a coat of motor oil or grease or something on the tank first so the foam won't stick, then put everything in place in my rig and spray in the foam and let it harden.
Jamm3r wrote:
On my rig the tank slides around in the square hole.
I'm planning on bedding the tank in some "great stuff" urethane foam once I'm done epoxying it. I'll wipe a coat of motor oil or grease or something on the tank first so the foam won't stick, then put everything in place in my rig and spray in the foam and let it harden.
69 Avion wrote:
Besides, my original tank wasn't supported on the front side because someone cut the hole, for the tank, too large.
Besides, my original tank wasn't supported on the front side because someone cut the hole, for the tank, too large.
On my rig the tank slides around in the square hole.
I'm planning on bedding the tank in some "great stuff" urethane foam once I'm done epoxying it. I'll wipe a coat of motor oil or grease or something on the tank first so the foam won't stick, then put everything in place in my rig and spray in the foam and let it harden.
It sounds like you have it under control. Great job.
My new tank fits in tight enough that it won't move anywhere. I probably designed it a little too tight, but it goes in without any kind of excessive force. It just doesn't have any extra room.
Like many of us I have the ASME 5 gallon tanks. I had one of them refilled at an RV repair place where I was having the C-11 sealtech tested. We went round and round on certification and stuff and he finally agreed to do it.
Anyway when he was done he must have stuck an O ring in there because the POL fitting leaked and when I went to figure it out, well, there was an O ring in there. I have the stock hard nose POLs and they are a metal-on-metal design and the O ring just ****s up the system.
I still had leaks and finally figured out that he removed the other tank and put it back even though it was full. No O ring but he didn't tighten the POL enough. These things have to be wrench tightened, and if you have little plastic handwheels on them like mine did when I got it, you should take them off.
So the pilot light for the furnace went out while he had the tanks out.
Anyway that was a couple of weeks ago and last night I wanted to run the furnace. Now I have the original gas valve still in there and always have a hell of a time getting it to work because it's so stiff it doesn't want to pop out, usually takes a few tries.
Well I got sloppy on the third try and while it was my fault for not doing everything the right way there was a bunch of gas that accumulated in there and I don't have nearly as much hair on my left arm now. It will grow back and I'm wearing long sleeve shirts for the next month
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
But I think it's high time to tear into the furnace and put in a new gas valve. Wondering if anyone has done it. It's a nice setup, really, sealed combustion, before it's time. More or less the same idea as the Dickenson propane fireplace. I ordered a new valve a few minutes ago. Looking at the furnace, I see that the bottom of the combustion chamber comes off with screws and I'm guessing the burner and pilot and everything is attached to that and will all come out. I'm going to take it all apart and try to fix some of the creaks and klunks while I'm in there.
Meanwhile, keep a close eye on the propane dealers, they don't know how to deal with POLs any more. And be careful lighting the pilot in the furnace, in that confined combustion chamber gas can accumulate if you're sloppy pushing the dial in.
69Avion wrote:
When I first checked out my original plastic tank I was real happy that it didn't leak and it didn't look cracked. After I put all the plumbing back together is when it started leaking. Once I removed it, I noticed hundreds of tiny cracks.
When I first checked out my original plastic tank I was real happy that it didn't leak and it didn't look cracked. After I put all the plumbing back together is when it started leaking. Once I removed it, I noticed hundreds of tiny cracks.
I've been following this thread closely. This week we are buttoning up the 67. All of the systems - electrical, water, gas - have been checked out, and they appear to be working. At least in terms of a static test.
But, this string sure has me nervous. Its been a few moons since we took out the tank and replumbed. Now, seeing other people's experience, it makes me nervous. I mean if you are contemplating a disaster, a disintegrating black water tank has to be right up there.
i am not the seller,just thought you avion fans might be interested,wish I have the space and time,love these campers...cheers
1995 silverado dually,2005 lance 915 lite
Jamm3r wrote:
A few words on propane.
Like many of us I have the ASME 5 gallon tanks. I had one of them refilled at an RV repair place where I was having the C-11 sealtech tested. We went round and round on certification and stuff and he finally agreed to do it.
Anyway when he was done he must have stuck an O ring in there because the POL fitting leaked and when I went to figure it out, well, there was an O ring in there. I have the stock hard nose POLs and they are a metal-on-metal design and the O ring just ****s up the system.
I still had leaks and finally figured out that he removed the other tank and put it back even though it was full. No O ring but he didn't tighten the POL enough. These things have to be wrench tightened, and if you have little plastic handwheels on them like mine did when I got it, you should take them off.
So the pilot light for the furnace went out while he had the tanks out.
Anyway that was a couple of weeks ago and last night I wanted to run the furnace. Now I have the original gas valve still in there and always have a hell of a time getting it to work because it's so stiff it doesn't want to pop out, usually takes a few tries.
Well I got sloppy on the third try and while it was my fault for not doing everything the right way there was a bunch of gas that accumulated in there and I don't have nearly as much hair on my left arm now. It will grow back and I'm wearing long sleeve shirts for the next month
But I think it's high time to tear into the furnace and put in a new gas valve. Wondering if anyone has done it. It's a nice setup, really, sealed combustion, before it's time. More or less the same idea as the Dickenson propane fireplace. I ordered a new valve a few minutes ago. Looking at the furnace, I see that the bottom of the combustion chamber comes off with screws and I'm guessing the burner and pilot and everything is attached to that and will all come out. I'm going to take it all apart and try to fix some of the creaks and klunks while I'm in there.
Meanwhile, keep a close eye on the propane dealers, they don't know how to deal with POLs any more. And be careful lighting the pilot in the furnace, in that confined combustion chamber gas can accumulate if you're sloppy pushing the dial in.
A few words on propane.
Like many of us I have the ASME 5 gallon tanks. I had one of them refilled at an RV repair place where I was having the C-11 sealtech tested. We went round and round on certification and stuff and he finally agreed to do it.
Anyway when he was done he must have stuck an O ring in there because the POL fitting leaked and when I went to figure it out, well, there was an O ring in there. I have the stock hard nose POLs and they are a metal-on-metal design and the O ring just ****s up the system.
I still had leaks and finally figured out that he removed the other tank and put it back even though it was full. No O ring but he didn't tighten the POL enough. These things have to be wrench tightened, and if you have little plastic handwheels on them like mine did when I got it, you should take them off.
So the pilot light for the furnace went out while he had the tanks out.
Anyway that was a couple of weeks ago and last night I wanted to run the furnace. Now I have the original gas valve still in there and always have a hell of a time getting it to work because it's so stiff it doesn't want to pop out, usually takes a few tries.
Well I got sloppy on the third try and while it was my fault for not doing everything the right way there was a bunch of gas that accumulated in there and I don't have nearly as much hair on my left arm now. It will grow back and I'm wearing long sleeve shirts for the next month
But I think it's high time to tear into the furnace and put in a new gas valve. Wondering if anyone has done it. It's a nice setup, really, sealed combustion, before it's time. More or less the same idea as the Dickenson propane fireplace. I ordered a new valve a few minutes ago. Looking at the furnace, I see that the bottom of the combustion chamber comes off with screws and I'm guessing the burner and pilot and everything is attached to that and will all come out. I'm going to take it all apart and try to fix some of the creaks and klunks while I'm in there.
Meanwhile, keep a close eye on the propane dealers, they don't know how to deal with POLs any more. And be careful lighting the pilot in the furnace, in that confined combustion chamber gas can accumulate if you're sloppy pushing the dial in.
To eliminate the ignorance problem, I bought a couple of POL to ACME adapters so they have a hard time messing it up. LOL
![[image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v426/M2HB/Avion/2012Avion353.jpg)
* This post was edited 04/10/13 09:51pm by 69 Avion *