Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Avion truck campers

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Topic: Avion truck campers - Hundreds of photos

Posted By: Avion C-11 on 01/27/13 01:04pm

That VW fender welt looks a lot like the cabinet welts in the Avion.

Still not sure I understand why to do the electrical that way. I can understand not wanting the microwave or hair dryer to overload the main circuit and kill power to essential gear.

So, what you are doing is eliminating the possibility of tripping the main breaker from an overload by "accessory" equipment by eliminating access to the outlets when on inverter power? Unless of course you turn on the #2 so that you could use the outlets.

My question is why wouldn't you have one panel where you can just turn off the breakers for each outlet or accessory? So, when running on inverter you just turn off the breakers to the outlets and microwave or whatever accessories you are worried someone might sneak in an use.

I'm just trying to understand because I am going to order all my gear for the 12Vand 120V interior wiring this week and need to make sure I have a solid plan.

Thank you!

Chris

Happy Camping!

Avioncamper.wordpress.com

Posted By: ticki2 on 01/27/13 02:57pm

AvionC-11

What his system does is eliminates the AC , 120v frig and the converter , when using the inverter . He is doing the transfer manually .

The beading or welting is also available at auto or boat upholstery shops .

'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed

Posted By: 69cayo on 01/27/13 04:37pm

Chris,
Your way would work fine, just more breakers to flip.
The panel I'll have in the front will handle just the 120v wall outlets and the incoming current from the inverter, flip two breakers and it's on shore or inverter.
This also cleaned up the wiring a bit by having some circuits end up front.
I quickly filled the factory knockouts and had to add quite a few more.
All my 12v circuits have seperate neutrals, whereas the factory grounded to the shell which were all heavely corroded.

A good place to get your wire, all marine grade...............
http://stores.ebay.com/Genuinedealz

Dennis

Posted By: Avion C-11 on 01/27/13 07:00pm

Good info! Thanks for the help.

C

Posted By: Dodgeavion on 02/03/13 04:58pm

I've completely gutted my camper, including removing the interior walls. Next will be to remove the insulation. Then on to rebuilding the wings.

Sure does make it easy to see where its been leaking. All 3 of the roof plumbing vents, all the corners of the windows and the fridge vent. The fridge vent was leaking really bad judging from the mold.

Under the fridge is rotted, under the water is rotted, under the propane compartment is rotted, under the bathroom is rotted. All that in addition to the floor being wavy and spongy.

Regarding the wings: Are they of the same 3/8 wood, 1 inch insulation, 3/8 wood? I know the center jack on the curbside has a reinforcement in the wall, but is there any reinforcement in the wing? (assuming they are of the same laminated construction)

Posted By: Dodgeavion on 02/03/13 05:03pm

Since I'm going to be replacing my floor and wings I'd like to ask the collective wisdom on best method?

Redo it like original? (layered construction)
Do it in solid wood? (seems heavy)
Something else?

I'll be adding a gray water tank. It occurs to me it would be easy to embed a welded steel framework in the laminated floor of 1" square steel tubing to support the gray tank and reinforce the floor. Or take it even farther and build a 1" aluminum frame for the entire tub. Although that would be considerably more work and seems overkill.

Anyway, for those that have done it would you do recommend a different method and those that haven't any good thoughts?

Ken

Posted By: 69 Avion on 02/03/13 05:12pm

My wood wasn't rotted on my C-11 so I didn't need to replace it, but I added a gray water tank (19-20 gallon)and put an angle iron reinforcement behind the closet on the left side. On the right side, I put another reinforcement attached to the right wing, and then I bolted it through the floor and I used a 3/4" angle iron to attach the flange of the tank to. It is in this thread around page 54.(?)

Ford F-350 4x4 Diesel
1988 Avion Triple Axle Trailer
1969 Avion C-11 Camper

Posted By: 69 Avion on 02/03/13 05:18pm

It is easier to find here.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f417/new-member-restoring-1969-c11-90779.html

Posted By: garryk6 on 02/04/13 11:53am

Since I carry my C-10 on a Ford Superduty, I needed the extra clearance between the cabover and my cab. So when I found my C-10, the PO had already rebuilt the floor using 3/4 plywood over a 2x4 subframe. This allowed me to have one (soon to be two) aluminum grey water tanks welded up that are about 22"x48"x3". They hold about 14 gallons, and I could place them all the way forward under the new 40 gallon water tank, keeping my COG as far forward as possible. (important for me since I am carrying a 10ft camper on a 6 3/4ft bed). The raised area also allowed for the plumbing runs for the tank(s) and hopefully soon, Ill be adding some blue-board insulation to fill in all the remaining void areas. The PO also found some weakness in the jack areas, so he over laid more 3/4 plywood up the verticals and out over the jacks. But that has caused some other issues (extra weight) that I wish I didn't have. If I had to start all over (which I may do when I retire, as long as I still can...) I would have an all aluminum "tub" welded up with appropriate gussets, and framework, that would allow the underside to hold the tanks and plumbing, with access plates and insulation, but that the interior parts were a solid welded piece that included the wings and the sides. I might also add an additional extra inch or two to the overall height, which might also allow a proper "basement" near the rear, and a wider "tub floor" that could extend just above the wheel wells over to near the bed sides. This could allow for some "tweaking" of the interior floor plan and storage areas for even better space utilization, and would also allow for more "floor space".
This would also allow for some external storage which most Avion TC's are rather lacking in, with a "basement" access to the rear, and possible some added room under the rear overhang.

The obvious problems with this plan is the fabrication cost as well as the cost of the aluminum. But this would all but eliminate the ROT problem with Avions. And provide a very sold an most likely lighter base. The only draw back I can see is reinforcing the welded aluminum properly to ensure there are no cracks, but as an owner of an all aluminum welded boat, it is pretty tough, and has not cracked with all the boating and trailering that it has done in the Alaska rivers and ocean areas. So I think as long as the "tub" was welded in a thick enough aluminum, and reinforced correctly, you would literally have a TC that would last forever!

Well enough dreaming, I do not see that happening any time too soon...

Good Luck on your rebuild!

Garry in Alaska

Garry K
Wife + 4 kids
Retired Military Family.... Alway's on the move....
2002 F350 CCSB 5.4 6spd 4x4 in AK
1966 Avion C-10 Truck Camper

Posted By: 69 Avion on 02/04/13 05:17pm

Garry, if I had my way, I would have an Avion upper and the wings and lower area would be built like a Camp Lite camper. I don't want any wood in a camper, but I really don't like the square shape of a Camp Lite. It is too bad that I couldn't get the ribs for an Airstream, because it would be easier to make my own camper than it would be to rebuild one. I would also have a welded frame under the bed (cab over) area to make it stronger.

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