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Topic: Dexter HD Suspension & EZ-Flex Install (long w/ pictures) |
Posted By: CT51
on 10/13/10 07:31pm
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It's done! 10:00 AM this morning four new springs were on my doorstep-sent overnight by an outstanding gentlemen at TRP-Jorge de Leon. The springs I had were Chinese (big surprise). He sent me what he referred to as their "premium" spring, whcih is U.S. made. No charge for anything-I'm sure the overnight fee was much greater than the cost of the springs. The fit was perfect. Bushings all went in with no problem-quite snug, but with the Harbor Freight ball joint tool, and having the springs on the workbench, that part was a piece of cake. I have a 50x16 RV garage that is climate controlled, as well as having an epoxy coated concrete floor. It is an ideal environment for this type of work. Basically followed the procedure as outlined on this post, with the addition of swapping out the springs. This was probably less effort than trying to remove and install the new bushings while the springs were still on the RV. First side took 3 hours, second side barely two hours. Done by 6:00 and popping a beer. I'd post pictures, but don't know how to. I sent a very sincere thank you letter to Jorge. TRP isn't in the retail business, yet they stepped all over themselves to make me happy. I'd love to let Lippert know how worthless they were, but this would not help TRP, so I'm just letting it ride. I'm still surprised this problem has not occurred before. According to Lippert, TRP is just one of several vendors they use for springs. And according to TRP, they use several manufacturers for their springs, depending on price point needed. Anybody buying a new TT on a Lippert frame could have any of half a dozen different manufacturers for their springs. Gotta go-I deserve another beer! CT51 |
Posted By: JBarca
on 10/13/10 08:10pm
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Wow that was great service and good tip to know on the US brand.... Glad things all worked out. John John & Cindy 2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10 CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package 21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR Ford Tow Command 1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam 2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver 2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR (I wish we were camping!) ![]() |
Posted By: LAdams
on 11/14/10 02:19pm
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CT51 wrote: ![]() I have a 50x16 RV garage that is climate controlled, as well as having an epoxy coated concrete floor. I would KILL for a workshop like that ![]() ![]() Glad the mod worked out and such great service from TRP... We all need to put TRP on our "Best Suppliers" list!!! Les 2000 Ford F-250SD, XLT, 4X4 Off Road, SuperCab w/ 6.8L (415 C.I.) V-10/3:73LS/4R100 Banks Power Pack w/Trans Command & OttoMind Sold Trailer - not RV'ing at this point in time HUNTER THERMOSTAT INSTALL HOME MADE WHEEL CHOCKS |
Posted By: TURK2500
on 11/14/10 05:36pm
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LAdams wrote: ![]() snip....We all need to put TRP on our "Best Suppliers" list!!!....snip X2 2016 Silverado 2500HD, 6.0L 2018 Jayco 24RBS ![]() |
Posted By: cummins2014
on 12/15/10 04:23pm
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Wow, what a thread, so many questions answered I too will do some upgrading on my suspension. Now instead of going in somewhat blind, I have all the info I need. I have the Mor-Ryde LRE suspension ,and I am going to add a wet bolt kit, but will buy my kit directly from Mor-Ryde, they upgrade the shear spring brackets so they can also be greased. If I went with dexter it would not address them. Also they will change some of the bolt lengths in the kit to accommodate a brace system that I am fabricating going from one side to the other , which is bolted to the hanger brackets, and also the middle suspension plate. Similar to Mor-Ryde's X-Factor. I noticed on one of the post that someone had welded what looks like pipe from one side to the other, that is probably the same function as what I am doing. What it is supposed to do is take out frame flex. Hopefully it will help. I have had no problems, but I plan on putting on more miles than I have done in the past. Thanks to all for all the great information
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Posted By: JBarca
on 12/15/10 10:00pm
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up2nogood wrote: ![]() I noticed on one of the post that someone had welded what looks like pipe from one side to the other, that is probably the same function as what I am doing. What it is supposed to do is take out frame flex. Hopefully it will help. I have had no problems, but I plan on putting on more miles than I have done in the past. Hi Up2 I am most likely the one you saw with the pipe welded between the hangers. And yes that was added to stiffen up the hangers from flexing in turns. I picked that tip up from some off road guys who go up and over large objects and that puts more twist in the hangers. In my case it is more from turning around in my driveway and having 5" long hangers with thin I beam flanges. (Frame to bolt center = 5") It works well. I know Mor ryde has come out with a bolt in kit that goes left to right between the hangers to do have a similar effect. Hope this helps John |
Posted By: cummins2014
on 12/16/10 10:06am
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Yes, it helps, Thanks again
* This post was edited 12/16/10 10:13am by an administrator/moderator * |
Posted By: LAdams
on 12/27/10 09:50am
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Nice to see that this thread is still active... Keep up the good work guys - your contributions are invaluable to myself and others that are reading this thread... Les |
Posted By: sjseng
on 01/17/11 09:30am
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Thanks to all that have provided input to this topic. I just installed my Ez-Flex this weekend. I will go for a test run this week, but so far I'm happy with the install of the kit. It took me 3 hours for the first side and about 2 hours for the second side. Overall, it took me two days because I packed the wheel bearings and painted the frame while the wheels were off. An all in one project!! I did not use the Harbor Frieght bearing press. I already have a Bushing Removal set. This tool fits in the internal diameter of the bushing and has a flange that equally presses on the edge of the bushing while you tap them out. This was very easy as half of my bushing I could press in by hand or just gently tap in with the tool. I purchased the K71-656-00 for my Triple axle, '05 Weekend Warrior LE3305. My main question that I had with the equilizers, was the difference in bolt hole paterns between the two sets. One set of equilizers had the same triangle bolt patern as the OEM, and the second set has one straight arm. So, I called up the Engineers at Dexter axle. ![]() The Equilizer with the one straight arm, has an arrow that needs to point forward. This equilizer, per the Engineer, must be between the 1st and 2nd axle. Reasonong: Do to the flexing design of the equilizer, each spring MUST have one stable mounting position. The 1st and 3rd axle have the hangers, but the 2nd axle mounts to the other two springs. Removing the one shakle on the leading mount of the spring, and mounting the spring to the equilizer accomplishes this stable mounting position. Otherwise, the 2nd axle would litteraly "float" in between. The way he explained it made since. In the few forums that I have read on the Ez-flex kit, I have not heard on where this goes and I have not seen any desent pictures with this easily defined. So that is why I am bringing it up. Old equilizers and shackles. ![]() This shows the equilizer between axle 1 and 2 with the straight arm as the leading mount to the 2nd axle. Front of the trailer is to the Right. ![]() ![]() Notice the leading edge. Front of trailer is to the Right. ![]() Finished install on the right side with the frame painted. ![]() Thanks again to all for the awsome input. Hope this may also clearify questions for those that will be attempting the install in the future. * This post was last edited 01/17/11 02:55pm by sjseng * |
Posted By: amdriven2liv
on 01/19/11 09:46am
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Thanks sjseng for sharing. It looks great. I'm glad you shared this install on a three axle. Can't wait for your thoughts on how your trailer rides with this. I know that I noticed a change on my trailer with the EZ-Flex. I'm still leaning to adding shocks to my trailer, but haven't begun that project yet. Enjoy! 2004 F350 6.0L 4x4 CC LB King Ranch, Scangauge II 2010 Mountaineer 324RLQ, |
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