Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Dexter HD Suspension & EZ-Flex Install (long w/ pictures)

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Topic: Dexter HD Suspension & EZ-Flex Install (long w/ pictures)

Posted By: Learjet on 03/12/09 05:50pm

What I discovered was my Nylon bushing were starting to wear through on a couple of them. The the real problem I discovered, was after 22,000 miles some of the bolts had sheared the spline's that lock them in place, so instead of turning in the nylon bushing they were wearing the linkage plates.

A couple of them looked ready to fail.

[image]

Another TIP:

If your bolts are hard to remove, or you don't feel like removing them, you can leave the bolts and shackles attached to the center equalizer and save some time. See pic below
[image]

* This post was edited 03/15/09 01:54pm by Learjet *

2017 Ram Big Horn, DRW Long Box, 4x4, Cummins, Aisin, 3.73
2022 Jayco Pinnacle 32RLTS, Onan 5500, Disc Brakes, 17.5" tires
B&W Ram Companion

Posted By: Learjet on 03/12/09 05:54pm

and it is done...

[image]

Posted By: Learjet on 03/12/09 06:00pm

after I finished the suspension install, I pulled the hubs and found a couple of bearing starting to fail (pitting and galling). I pulled the hubs last @ 10,000 miles and cleaned and repacked by hand. The grease still looked great. Must be the made in China that caused them not to last more than 22,000 miles. note: races looked fine.

Off tomorrow for new bearings and races.

[image]

* This post was last edited 03/12/09 07:59pm by Learjet *

Posted By: Learjet on 03/12/09 06:05pm

now Mods and other well informed folk here, need suggestions on frame repair. I think I have seen this problem posted here, I know I need some plates welded to beef it up. Any suggestions and tips when talking to my welder?

See pics:

[image]

Posted By: LAdams on 03/12/09 06:40pm

Nice job Learjet [emoticon]

Boy, looks like you got to those shackles just in time, that one looked pretty thin toward the top...

Regarding the frame issue, I'm not seeing what you say needs repair - could you expound a little bit [emoticon]

bearing looked pretty sad for only 22K miles [emoticon]

I'm gonna have to pull mine this year and see what they look like... I have less miles than you did but no doubt they are chinese bearings as well [emoticon]

Les

2000 Ford F-250SD, XLT, 4X4 Off Road, SuperCab
w/ 6.8L (415 C.I.) V-10/3:73LS/4R100
Banks Power Pack w/Trans Command & OttoMind
Sold Trailer - not RV'ing at this point in time

HUNTER THERMOSTAT INSTALL

HOME MADE WHEEL CHOCKS

Posted By: Learjet on 03/12/09 07:32pm

LAdams wrote:

Nice job Learjet [emoticon]

bearing looked pretty sad for only 22K miles [emoticon]

I'm gonna have to pull mine this year and see what they look like... I have less miles than you did but no doubt they are chinese bearings as well [emoticon]

Les

Ok, I edited the pictures.

Les, look at the bottom of the side support where its welded to the frame. You can see I cleaned some areas in some of the pics where the crack radiates out. Follow the rust line from the bottom out. This is a thin wall box frame, not I-beam. Those rust lines are cracks.

[emoticon]

* This post was edited 03/12/09 07:57pm by Learjet *

Posted By: LAdams on 03/15/09 03:09pm

Oh yeah - I see tem now - wow - that doesn't look good... Can you weld??? Maybe run a bead down the cracks or perhaps reinforce the outrigger with another piece of material...

Les

Posted By: Learjet on 03/15/09 04:09pm

LAdams wrote:

Oh yeah - I see tem now - wow - that doesn't look good... Can you weld??? Maybe run a bead down the cracks or perhaps reinforce the outrigger with another piece of material...

Les

I am trying not to get too disappointed about the cracks, because I'll get it fixed right.

I moved my problem to this link so I don't hijack this thread.

thanks.

Posted By: RVhiker on 03/19/09 03:01pm

My son and I installed the Dexter HD Suspension set (without the EZ-Flex Idler) yesterday. It took us about 6 hours; having a 20 year old to crawl under the trailer and do the hard stuff was very helpful.

A couple of comments:
1) I sprayed a "rust busting" magic spray over the threads and nuts of all we'd have to take off the day before. I think that this "soaking" time helped make the rusted nuts somewhat easier to get off.
2) Our fifth wheel has shocks installed. In order to lower the axle enough to get the spring ends installed, we had to remove the nut from the lower shock mount (no big deal, if the threads aren't too rusted).
3) Watch the wiring for your electric brakes. In order to lower the axle enough, we had to make some slack in the wire. There were some clips holding the wiring to the frame that we temporarily removed which created the slack, without having to cut the wire and then have to repair it.
4) That ball joint remover tool that has been mentioned earlier is really needed for this job. It would have taken much, much longer without it.
5) The directions included from Dexter are really not very helpful - read them while employing several grains of salt. The pictures and discussion in this thread, however, were very helpful. Thanks!

There's lots of advice and information in forums...
sometimes it is correct.

2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2008 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab; Duramax/Allison; Pullrite 14k Superglide Hitch

Posted By: Learjet on 04/08/09 07:04pm

additional caution: after my first trip I noticed my gas line runs adjacent to the center hanger and was making contact with one of the shackle plates when going over speed bumps. I moved the gas line to provide clearance from the shackles.

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