Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Class C Motorhomes: B+ motorhomes

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Topic: B+ motorhomes

Posted By: B-Plus on 04/19/10 03:37pm

I don't seem to have any degrading of my roof material after 9 years and mine sits out in the new England weather. I think mine is called DICOR BRITE TEK TPO material, heavy vinal texured surface 1/16 thickness with a felt backing ,seems to be a pretty tuff material to me.I have backed into tree branches and broke them off without any tears in this material, does not seem to create black streaks either. I have one of the early B-Plus units so it may have been a material that they were trying out but became a cost issue to them so they decided to go with rubber. I think the coaches with the old style front cap may all have this material. I don't recommend anything that stays in contact with the roof where wind could cause chafing of the two surfaces or hold in moisture.
Dario

* This post was edited 04/21/10 09:37pm by B-Plus *

2003 6.0 Chev Trail-lite B-Plus 225
2007 6.0 Chev 170 Roadtrek ( Daily Driver )
1976 Corvette

Posted By: Artum Snowbird on 04/19/10 11:12pm

I keep thinking about this issue too, and have thought about trying to make an extendible three piece section of fairly robust pipe. Start with putting a section into cement in the ground front and back of the motorhome. Use about two or three feet, and put it into the cement so it is flush in the ground and the first piece can fit snugly inside the cemented in pipe.

Build up three sections so that the top is about 15 feet or so up. The top pieces should have a pulley that a rope will come through and an anchoring cleat at the bottom.

Once you do that, get a tarp and put it over the rope, and pull the sides down towards anchors in the ground so that it's not touching the sides of the MH. If you think it would help, maybe run the rope through a piece of rubber hose to provide a softer edge to pull the tarp over.

Here's the deal. 90% of the weather is going to leave it just the way you want it, and sometimes you are going to lose the tarp in the wind and weather. But it won't cost much to replace the tarp compared to building a hard sided shelter.

You might have to experiment with anchors, and maybe even guy wires to hold the poles up tight too, but in summer it all just comes down and gets put away. No fuss, no mess.

Mike
2012 Winnebago Impulse Silver 26QP
2005 16.6 Double Eagle
2018 Jeep Wrangler JK
previously Snowbird Campers,
Triple E Motorhome and Fifth Wheel

Posted By: Orion_42 on 04/20/10 04:57am

That has some potential Snowbird. You may even get away with doing just one pole by using another structure (back of a garage) or a tree for one end.

----------------------
2001 Trail Lite B+ 211

Posted By: cheeze1 on 04/20/10 07:07am

I've had similar experience as Dario with tree branches, tho' I think my roof is rubber. I also agree with him regarding anything contacting a surface of the coach. As tight as I fastened my cover, I noticed some abrasions on the coach when I removed it. Add that to the absolute MESS of rust I now have on my chassis, I sold the cover and the only way of covering the rig for me would be a garage, or at worst, a carport structure of some kind.

Chas Morristown, NJ
Trail Lite
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Posted By: F250GulfportFlorida on 04/20/10 07:30am

I bought a new 2007 252DS and now I need to find a replacement part. I need to slide out room controller that is located under the bathroom sink. The part number is 22303 and the manufacturer number is KCCA0005-C. I have called every known number to the manufacturer etc, and cannot locate one. Any help is appreciated.

Mike

Posted By: Artum Snowbird on 04/20/10 10:09am

You can get your controller from Euclid Universal the phone number is 440 349-4083

and check this out too.

http://www.kinetekcontrols.com/products/datasheets/SG-02-0061_A1_RV_Motor_ControllerDS.pdf

Posted By: B-Plus on 04/20/10 10:31am

cheeze1 wrote:

Add that to the absolute MESS of rust I now have on my chassis,

Chas,what kind of rust are you talking about. What kind of surface is your rig sitting on?
Of all the vehicals I have had and left sitting outside , worst condition you can have is letting it sit on gravel or dirt. It will totally eat away the chassis in no time. My rig does not have any surface rust at all on my underside, the rig needs sit out in the open to get a good cross wind to dry the moisture from under it. Tucking it in a corner where it's protected from the wind and not letting it breath is not good. I will open my garage doors whenever I am out side so my other cars inside can get air, I noticed( 30 ) years ago that even in a garage your metal and frame will sweat and rust if not dried out , at night I will close the garage doors.

Posted By: cheeze1 on 04/20/10 10:44am

It sits in an open lot on dirt/grass, with some gravel. The cover seemed to hold moisture because the chassis went from "normal" rust to much rust and peeling paint over that 6 month period.
The rust is all treatable. I have some 3M rust converter which I will be using now that it is getting warmer. They recommend powerwashing the rust and letting it dry before application. All of this would be much easier if I had it up on a lift, but we know that's not happening.
btw, how come B-Plus has a Good Sam logo? I'm a member too!

* This post was edited 04/20/10 11:16am by cheeze1 *

Posted By: B-Plus on 04/20/10 03:49pm

cheeze1 wrote:

It sits in an open lot on dirt/grass, with some gravel.

Chas,forget covering it ,best thing you can do is get a good tarp and drive the RV on it , peg the tarp all around so it stays and that will take care of any further chassis rust. I know as you said you can repaint it and treat it but there are areas that you just can't get at. You want to keep the moisture from getting onto the frame.
I know I have a mental problem ,I'm a nut case on car care ( just ask my wife ) if I hear a noise ,I'll take the engine apart to find out what it is, my wife on the other hand thinks that if you leave it alone it will go away!!
I just got finished flushing all of my brake lines on 5 cars yesterday. Does it need to be done every 3 years ? Probably not ,but it's a piece of mind thing with me, 45 years ago had a car crash because a brake line let go ( that will do it for ya ) I also jack my cars up to get the weight off of the chassis and grease all of the fittings every oil change,I will not buy a car without grease fittings period!!
Also use nothing but synthetic oils and grease. I had a gear chip in my rear differential on the Corvette this year and with almost 350,000 miles and 34 years old the rear gears were still almost to factory spec's,Corvette place could not beleive it, also said the engine sounded and performed like a 20,000 mile engine. Had he not known me for the last 40 years he would have called me a liar.
I have never had any of my RV's or cars in a garage, and that's from doing proper maintence all of their lives.
Dario

* This post was last edited 04/21/10 09:36pm by B-Plus *

Posted By: Gene in NE on 04/20/10 09:36pm

If I were not fortunate to have a building for storage, I would save my pennies until I could purchase something like this -
[image]

This particular model is 12'W x 26' L x 12' H at a price of $1,777.

The above per Superior Building and Carports

The Tyvek cover I purchased for my Class A, years ago cost me about $250 and caused rub spots on the painted surfaces. I included it with the sale.

2002 Trail-Lite Model 211-S w/5.7 Chevy (click View Profile)
Gene

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