I'll find my Chilton's manual for the Express van and see if the wiring diagram shows if the horn button is on the positive or negative side. I always buy either the Chilton or Haynes manuals on my vehicles. They have different info than you will find in the owner's manual and lots of pictures and diagrams but not as expensive or detailed as the shop manual.
Bill & Maggie
LT USNR Ret.
2003 Trail Lite 211 B+
Chevy 6.0L
Gene, thanks a bunch for the manual....I did not have one. Nice!
Chaz, you could disconnect the wires going to the existing horn and use a voltmeter to determine what each wire is (having someone toot the horn to see if it goes + or -).
----------------------
2001 Trail Lite B+ 211
Chas Morristown, NJ
Trail Lite
">
Hey Guys,just for an average,how long can your RV stay un-pluged without draining the batteries?
I think I finally figured out my electrical drain gremlin. I could never leave my Rv unplugged without it draining down the batteries,at times just the coach batteries would drain and sometimes both the coach and chassis would drain.
I even replaced the isolator and the battery disconnect a few years ago.
I have had this LED volt meter in for a few years now but with two RV's and lots of other toys to play with I never took a real look at the draining problem , anywhere I read about it on forumns it was stated that " they all drain " that's an RV.
Well I had a little time the other day and I figured I would tackle it,here is what I found out:
I only know this because I can click back and forth on my Led readout between batteries. Sometimes my isolator would kick out ( seperate the batteries ) and sometimes it would not. New isolator did not help , same problem. In my compartment where the isolator and disconnect solenoid are housed there is a 5 amp auto fuse on the panal. That fuse when pulled disconnects the coach and the chassis battery. I left it disconnected for 5 days and no more battery drain. battery level of both batteries were at 12.47 (Coach ) and 12.5 ( Chassis ) lost about a volt per battery a day from going to drained batteries in a week before. My fix:
I ran a line to the inside of my coach next to my LED with a toggle switch ( on/off ) and fuse between the fuse in the panal. Now I can manually isolate the batteries. I guess without the LED readout I would have had no clue that both batteries were not disconnecting. My isolator was staying hot and that is what was using the juice!!!
I will send a pic if any body is interested or has this problem, maybe it was just my coach that it was happening to, who knows!
Dario
![[image]](http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff182/dariopop/002-3.jpg)
![[image]](http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff182/dariopop/014-1.jpg)
* This post was last edited 04/11/10 06:17pm by B-Plus *
2003 6.0 Chev Trail-lite B-Plus 225
2007 6.0 Chev 170 Roadtrek ( Daily Driver )
1976 Corvette
I was wondering what that 5A fuse was for.
I saw it when I was under the coach removing the battery to check fluid levels (yep, the old way-under-the-coach batt tray). I also noticed that I lost the cover to that elect box during my trip, along with the tailpipe! The road infrastructure in this country is in serious need of attention!
B-Plus wrote:
.
Hey Guys,just for an average,how long can your RV stay un-pluged without draining the batteries?
I think I finally figured out my electrical drain gremlin. I could never leave my Rv unplugged without it draining down the batteries,at times just the coach batteries would drain and sometimes both the coach and chassis would drain.
I even replaced the isolator and the battery disconnect a few years ago.
I have had this LED volt meter in for a few years now but with two RV's and lots of other toys to play with I never took a real look at the draining problem , anywhere I read about it on forumns it was stated that " they all drain " that's an RV.
Well I had a little time the other day and I figured I would tackle it,here is what I found out:
I only know this because I can click back and forth on my Led readout between batteries. Sometimes my isolator would kick out ( seperate the batteries ) and sometimes it would not. New isolator did not help , same problem. In my compartment where the isolator and disconnect solenoid are housed there is a 5 amp auto fuse on the panal. That fuse when pulled disconnects the coach and the chassis battery. I left it disconnected for 5 days and no more battery drain. battery level of both batteries were at 12.47 (Coach ) and 12.5 ( Chassis ) lost about a volt per battery a day from going to drained batteries in a week before. My fix:
I ran a line to the inside of my coach next to my LED with a toggle switch ( on/off ) and fuse between the fuse in the panal. Now I can manually isolate the batteries. I guess without the LED readout I would have had no clue that both batteries were not disconnecting. My isolator was staying hot and that is what was using the juice!!!
I will send a pic if any body is interested or has this problem, maybe it was just my coach that it was happening to, who knows!
Dario
.
Hey Guys,just for an average,how long can your RV stay un-pluged without draining the batteries?
I think I finally figured out my electrical drain gremlin. I could never leave my Rv unplugged without it draining down the batteries,at times just the coach batteries would drain and sometimes both the coach and chassis would drain.
I even replaced the isolator and the battery disconnect a few years ago.
I have had this LED volt meter in for a few years now but with two RV's and lots of other toys to play with I never took a real look at the draining problem , anywhere I read about it on forumns it was stated that " they all drain " that's an RV.
Well I had a little time the other day and I figured I would tackle it,here is what I found out:
I only know this because I can click back and forth on my Led readout between batteries. Sometimes my isolator would kick out ( seperate the batteries ) and sometimes it would not. New isolator did not help , same problem. In my compartment where the isolator and disconnect solenoid are housed there is a 5 amp auto fuse on the panal. That fuse when pulled disconnects the coach and the chassis battery. I left it disconnected for 5 days and no more battery drain. battery level of both batteries were at 12.47 (Coach ) and 12.5 ( Chassis ) lost about a volt per battery a day from going to drained batteries in a week before. My fix:
I ran a line to the inside of my coach next to my LED with a toggle switch ( on/off ) and fuse between the fuse in the panal. Now I can manually isolate the batteries. I guess without the LED readout I would have had no clue that both batteries were not disconnecting. My isolator was staying hot and that is what was using the juice!!!
I will send a pic if any body is interested or has this problem, maybe it was just my coach that it was happening to, who knows!
Dario
Thanks for the pic, it may help me if I decide to clean the foam that is all over mine. I was having confusion with both batteries sharing equal voltage, but they do not drain too bad in a month.
My solenoid pics and post here
* This post was edited 04/14/10 08:58am by burlmart *
2005 Trail Lite 213 B-Plus w/ 6.0 Chevy
BTW, the horns went in without a hitch, and sound great! No more 'anemiahorn' sound. I followed the written directions and it was all quite easy. I highly recommend them. They cost $38 + wire and connectors, but after researching the used market online, it was well worth ending up with 2 brand new matched horns.
BBTW. Winterthur and the Hagley Museum are a great trip, and the West Chester KOA is a winner as well. The Hagley machine shop is a techie's dream, especially the 180 year old working machines!
Chas,I use a car polish on the front of my Trail-lite ( Van ) and I use 3m Marine Boat Cleaner / Polish on all of the fiberglass. Seems to work great . It's made for more harsh conditions and holds up better than regular polish or glaze.
Dario
B-Plus wrote:
Burl, I would clean up the foam spray that is all over your solenoid and disconnect switch, you never know when or where your going to have to fool with them. On the side of the road in the middle of the night with a flashlight in your mouth is not a good time to be cleaning foam away from electrical items,a nice day in your drivway would be better. Take another a real good look at my pic , too many " HOT " live 12v cables in the box!!!
Dario
Burl, I would clean up the foam spray that is all over your solenoid and disconnect switch, you never know when or where your going to have to fool with them. On the side of the road in the middle of the night with a flashlight in your mouth is not a good time to be cleaning foam away from electrical items,a nice day in your drivway would be better. Take another a real good look at my pic , too many " HOT " live 12v cables in the box!!!
Dario
I know, but it's all them HOT wires that keeps me from the job!