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Posted By: Orion_42
on 02/01/10 09:41am
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The bottom of the cabinet has a 3/4" air space between the floor of the cabinet and the finished face underneath, that the existing light is mounted onto. The space goes all the way, unobstructed, between the forward end of the cabinets (near cab) and the aft end (near kitchen). I drilled a hole near the forward end (behind my added valence) and fished the wire from there to the hole where the existing light is mounted, and where the wires are accessed. The valences were mounted to the bottom of the cabined about 1" behind the existing light fixture.
---------------------- 2001 Trail Lite B+ 211 |
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Posted By: cheeze1
on 02/01/10 01:17pm
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Gotcha Orion, you are a devious DIY'er like myself! I figured that was where you went. When I embarked on my redo, I decided so seek out rattles that I KNEW did not belong there. Sure enough after taking out the light, I found screws and wire scraps rolling around in that air space!! Just got our baby home, hope it warms enough for me to install the fog lights. I found a nice neutral contact paper to go over the stripe on the inside walls that I screwed up. Chas Morristown, NJ Trail Lite ">
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Posted By: Orion_42
on 02/01/10 03:00pm
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Thanks Cheeze, yes, I'm a frugal Yankee that loves to tinker. I get more satisfaction out of bringing a unit back to original (or better) glory than buying new off the lot. But, I won't say I wouldn't love to HAVE a new unit. I did like your redo. That looks like a much easier sleeping setup. I think I would go with a flush-mounted floor flange for a pedestal table in your setup. Perhaps you did. ha ha...what were you doing that screwed up the walls? |
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Posted By: cheeze1
on 02/01/10 05:06pm
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Orion, We must be 'brothers from another mother', 'cause that is my philosophy exactly. I love to 'bring things back'. Some of my favorite tools are old ones, like my 1954 Shopsmith that my father in law gave me. I've been thinking about that floor flange 'cause the 4 fold out legs are a little wobbly. I tried to remove that 'decorative' tape stripe that goes around the coach about 1/2 way up. I thought for sure I could cajole it off nicely and then put something much cooler or do without. The glue stuck to the wall and the plastic pulled off, and as you know, getting those kinds of glue off is a royal PITA. So instead I'm going over it. I'll let you know tomorrow if it works. |
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Posted By: Gene in NE
on 02/01/10 05:39pm
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cheeze1 wrote: You know what is frustrating, is a small corner comes loose by itself, but if you want to remove the rest....well it just does not want to budge. Been tempted to use a sander. But, with my luck I would get into the wall paper or gouge too deep or not deep enough....Aaaaah....I tried to remove that 'decorative' tape stripe that goes around the coach about 1/2 way up. I thought for sure I could cajole it off nicely and then put something much cooler or do without. The glue stuck to the wall and the plastic pulled off, and as you know, getting those kinds of glue off is a royal PITA. So instead I'm going over it...
2002 Trail-Lite Model 211-S w/5.7 Chevy (click View Profile) Gene |
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Posted By: Orion_42
on 02/01/10 06:46pm
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Cheeze, hey bro! I would try the following in order to see which one will remove the glue: Goo Gone; acetone (carefully - test an area and don't dwell); wet sand (600 paper) followed by heavy-duty rubbing compound. I had some residual glue from the prior owner's removal and ended up doing the last approach since I wet-sanded and compounded (machine) the whole coach and brought it back to a nice shine. It actually wet sanded very quickly smoothed out a lot of "grain" that made the gel-coat look dull. As for the table flange, Cabelas has some nice seat flanges and posts that could be used. I used their flanges on a restored boat for mounting the captain's chairs and they are pretty flush with no big hole in the middle. There are several types to choose from. |
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Posted By: McZippie
on 02/01/10 09:21pm
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Gene in NE wrote: cheeze1 wrote: You are slightly luckier than I with an access door. I don't even have that. I have to crawl under and then almost sit up next to my single 12V battery. One of our members, Gary Swanson, put in a second battery on his rig. He turned them sideways and put something under them to raise them above the retaining lip of the support. Bad things happend for him, the support bracket weld let loose and he almost lost his batteries. I had thought about adding a second 12 Volt battery or even thought about 2-6 Volt golf cart batteries. Then decided that the single really has not been a problem for us. It is a pain to check the acid level. They do sell a solution for that at Camping World Remote Battery Fill.Ok gang, I'm going to whine about a question that has been discussed in the past. I have that ridiculous 'access door' to my house battery...Anyway, I have seem numerous discussions about having 2 house batteries and some have also mentioned having 2 6v in series instead of a single 12. My major whine is that checking the battery is a royal PITA and I would love to do some work and switch to a slide out tray. It would mean cutting that area of the coach and then fitting some kind of support system for the slide out. Anyone have ideas?? I just thought this would kick off some excitement during the upcoming winter doldrums.(read: I CAN'T WORK ON MY RIG!). ![]() The salvation for us, is that we do not spend much time merely sitting in one spot. We tend to camp overnight and then move on in the morning. The engine alternator keeps the single battery fully charged. Rarely do we use shore power long enough for the converter to overcharge the battery and boil out the acid. For those camping in one place for extended time without shore power, the single battery would soon be depleted. Replacement of one 12V every 7 years is not that big of a deal and a little less expensive than replacing 2. ![]() Ford diesel vans have there batteries mounted on the passenger side frame rails. My Rig came with 2 batteries, I purchased another Ford OEM frame rail battery box off E-bay and switched to maintenance free AGM batteries. 2009 Ford E350 Diesel Cutaway Limo Bus 2010 Jeep JKU Rubicon (Toad) 1942 Bantam T3 Trailer
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Posted By: McZippie
on 02/01/10 09:29pm
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Orion_42 wrote: Finally received and installed new sofa-bed and cab captains chair (driver side not in yet). Totally updated the interior to as-new condition on this 2001 model. TV replaced with LCD and relocated to where you can actually watch it from the dinette (has swing-out bracket). Feeble factory cab seats replace with slightly larger, more plush captains chairs (6-way power driver seat) and adjustable lumbar support. New carpets throughout. Indirect 12V LED rope lighting behind new oak valences under side overhead cabinets. ![]() Very Nice!!!. I really like your Rig. |
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Posted By: McZippie
on 02/01/10 09:45pm
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Orion_42 wrote: The TV bracket I used was pretty heavy duty from Best-Buy, but if I had to do it again, I would probably start with the one available from Campers-World as it's more likely designed for road use. I did add an additional custom-made padded bracket below the TV where the TV parks during travel, so there's no vibration or movement. Found this mount at Amazon.com it's small and all the axises can be tighten down. Temporarily I used it to mount a small LCD TV but will switch to a new super slim LED TV later this year when they become more available in 19 to 22 inch sizes.
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Posted By: Orion_42
on 02/01/10 09:59pm
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McZippie, thanks for the compliment. I really do still like your outside color scheme and may do something similar in the spring. That sure is a classy rig. The TV bracket you showed looks similar to mine. The key thing is to attach it to a solid surface. As shown here: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseac........tid/157894/srt/pa/pging/1/page/234.cfm |
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