Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: nodakotaclassc on 07/10/07 05:08pm

Ken,

Thanks for the advise, I stopped by the hardware store after work and picked up a multimeter. I haven't taken a look at the instructions, but do you know if when checking voltage do you test in parallel or series? I know one way is for voltage and the other is for amperage.

Brady

Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/10/07 09:09pm

no problem Brady,

I just bought a 76 22 foot class C and I'm still learning myself. My lights run on both DC and AC shore power. So they have to be 12 volt lights. Converted somewhere. I'm thinking you have a voltage drop trying to come off the lights. They are probably wired in series so the voltage drop is increasing the amps across your fuse and blam. I'd check the voltage at the wire you are connecting to the radio and see what you get. I really am assuming that this light will run off your batteries so make sure it's not a 120v AC.

Yes, amps are tested in series. See how many amps your radio is running to get the power (watts) it needs to run. Probably exceeding the fuse rating and I would not put a bigger fuse in.

I would suggest putting in a dedicated line in somehow. I have a second battery, and if you do, you could get a little fuse box and put in a few 12V DC items or just run a line to the chassis fuse box. Some will have an empty slot.

Let us know what you find out because thats a good idea.

Ken

Posted By: Leeann on 07/11/07 05:20am

mkpj1 wrote:

I would suggest putting in a dedicated line in somehow. I have a second battery, and if you do, you could get a little fuse box and put in a few 12V DC items or just run a line to the chassis fuse box. Some will have an empty slot.

That's what we did with our new stereo - ran a block from the coach battery under the dash and hooked up the accessories to that (with fuses). Much better than depending on the irregular and inadequate wiring from the factory and PO hacks.

'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo

Posted By: Big_John on 07/11/07 05:24am

nodakotaclassc wrote:

Voltage is checked with the probes placed in parallel and amperage (current) is checked with the probes in series. Just be sure that the current you are measuring is less then what your multimeter capable of or you'll blow the internal multmeter fuse.

Do a google search and you'll find a few tutorials of how to use your multimeter.

Posted By: nodakotaclassc on 07/12/07 03:58pm

I think my plan for this weekend is going to be to check and make sure my converter is grounded properly and everything 'looks ok.' Then I will check out that line with a multimeter. Last summer I replaced the walls and ceiling and noticed that the system that runs off of the converter uses a red-covered romex and the 115 lines are white-covered like in my house. Anyway, if I cannot come to any conclusions I will just run a fused line from the battery.

On a side note I am so happy I found this website. I bought my class c last year and really have just run into one problem after another (mainly because I had never been in or around an rv before). In February I stumbled upon rv.net and have enjoyed owning a rv much more ever since. I can spend hours just reading what everyone has to say, and solve some of my problems without even having to ask. Everyone on this site is so friendly it makes me feel like I belong to a club---a RV CLUB! Anyway, thanks for the help this past week. It makes me excited to go back out and work on it some more.

Brady

Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/15/07 08:08pm

Anybody used any elstemeric or plasticote products for their roofs?

Any opinions?

ken
76 22 foot
360

Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/16/07 05:16am

mkpj1 wrote:

Anybody used any elstemeric or plasticote products for their roofs?

Any opinions?

ken
76 22 foot
360

Ken, I've been using the Plasticote stuff for aluminim on mine. Strange material, but if you follow the directions, it SEEMS to work pretty well! I say "SEEMS" because it's still pretty fresh! I'm about to brush it to seal the screwed on gutter extrusions, possibly the top edges of the windows as well!

Eric

Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/16/07 05:46am

Eric,

That's what i have been reading. the Plasti-cote is for borders and seams and the Elastamere is a roll on reflective "rubber-like?" covering for the whole roof. Maybe like those spray on bedliners for pick-ups? The reflective nature of it is supposed to reduce heat quite a bit?

Ken

Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/16/07 08:35am

It is a rubber like material when cured, and can be rolled on. The refective quality? It's grey in color, so I doubt it'd have much affect on temps.

I paid $29.00 a gallon for it locally, and seems to go farther than the can says. They say to get it to about 1/8" thick and covers 50 sq.ft. I think I'm getting a tad better yeild.

The trick to using the stuff is to read the dircetions. This material is by far better than the other 34 years of******spackled on my roof! [emoticon]

Eric

Posted By: donandmax on 07/16/07 09:43am

Beware of old motorhomes with low mileage they have sat for a long long time and that aint good !

If it aint broke fix it till it is

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