RvFNG76 wrote:
I am looking at making my rig a complete off the grid capable unit got a space for my batteries and panels as well as a space for the inverter. Now to find a 30 amp capable inverter.
I am looking at making my rig a complete off the grid capable unit got a space for my batteries and panels as well as a space for the inverter. Now to find a 30 amp capable inverter.
Well, a motorhome with a 4x4 toad is the perfect bugout vehicle, and can carry a lot more than a backpack can.
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RvFNG76 wrote:
I am looking at making my rig a complete off the grid capable unit got a space for my batteries and panels as well as a space for the inverter. Now to find a 30 amp capable inverter.
I am looking at making my rig a complete off the grid capable unit got a space for my batteries and panels as well as a space for the inverter. Now to find a 30 amp capable inverter.
Look back through this thread or wake Leeann up. She knows first-hand a good converter and has posted about it.
Inverter is an incorrect term. Inverters change 12VDC into 120VAC. They're also a great way to destroy batteries.
RE: Windshield wiper bushings. It's possible to make more durable ones but would probably cost at least 3-4 times as much as OEM or aftermarket replacements. I know of two people who have custom-made more durable bushings. In both cases, it took a lot of time to find or fabricate suitable material and do some precision machining.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
RvFNG76 wrote:
I do mean inverter griff as i want to run my 110 appliances as well so that i can go boondocking without my noisy genny
I do mean inverter griff as i want to run my 110 appliances as well so that i can go boondocking without my noisy genny
Then watch your batteries carefully and run your genset daily or twice daily to recharge batteries ... or be prepared to replace batteries yearly, depending on how much you use your motorhome.
You definitely should look into solar cells.
ABS Alaska is a very good resource for what you're trying to do. As much as they try to stay 'Alaska only,' they do a fair amount of business Outside.
RvFNG76 wrote:
FOUND A FRIDGE!!! menards carries a fridge that is 7.4 cu ft fits where mine used to with removal of upper cabinet. And it only draws 125 wats so i can run it all the time especially while not on shore power.
FOUND A FRIDGE!!! menards carries a fridge that is 7.4 cu ft fits where mine used to with removal of upper cabinet. And it only draws 125 wats so i can run it all the time especially while not on shore power.
This one? Criterion Fridge
I take it you don't mind losing the propane-powered aspect?
Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme
A 125w refer is going to draw roughly 1 amp on 120vac. That will be 12 amps on a 12vdc source and that is not even counting the draw of the converter. And remember the refer has to run 24hrs so at night it has to run only on battery power. For 8 hrs of darkness you would need 12amps x 8hrs = 96 amp hrs of battery power.
For a 120 amp hr battery you can only use half of that without damaging it. So you only get 60 amp hrs. But to charge the batteries back up you need to double the number of batteries since the refer draw continues even when the solar panels are charging. And I haven't even counted all the other battery draws.
The are reasons RVs come with gas refers.
I must be blind, I looked at the specs on this one and all I could find was dimensions, but no power consumption details?
Ballenxj wrote:
I must be blind, I looked at the specs on this one and all I could find was dimensions, but no power consumption details?
I must be blind, I looked at the specs on this one and all I could find was dimensions, but no power consumption details?
I couldn't find the power consumption details either, but it's probably on a tag on the unit itself.
What I would do, and this is just OCD me talking, is trace the propane line and find out two things: 1) Why was the original line taken offline & 2) Did the P.O. cap the original line correctly? We all know P.O.'s do things correctly, saving us from any future headaches.