Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: TreeSeeker on 06/22/18 03:19pm

I don't think the converter is causing ang problems. Don't remove it yet.

Posted By: StingrayL82 on 06/22/18 03:27pm

TreeSeeker wrote:

StingrayL82,

OK, that green color on the black wire connected to the bottom of the second fuse bothers me. This appears to be corrosion and that is bad. It will cause heat.

First turn off the shore power.

That corroded connector needs to be cut off and the wire cut back until you find clean wire with no corrosion. Then put on a new connector and clean up the screw and buss on the bottom of the second fuse, then reconnect the wire.

Turn the shore power back on for about 15 seconds, turn it off, then see if the connection is hot. I use an IR thermometer for this type of thing, but you can use a finger (carefully) in a pinch.

If it is still cool, try the power for 30 seconds and check again. If still cool, then turn on the refer for about 30 seconds and check again. If still cool, then try for 5 minutes. Note that refers on 12vdc draw a lot of power, so a little resistance can cause a lot of heat. Because they draw so much 12vdc power they are normally only used when driving so they don't kill the battery.

Do you have an electrical meter? If not, you should get one and keep it in the RV. You can get one at Harbor Freight for about $10.

I already re-wired all of the 12VDC wires going to the fuse block. I also used JB Weld made for thermoplastics and re-attached the lower fuse connector for the fridge fuse. Everything is cool to the touch, as I do not have an IR thermometer.

I have a digital Sears multimeter. Wife also just bought me a 120VAC circuit tester, while she was shopping today.

* This post was edited 06/22/18 04:13pm by StingrayL82 *

Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme

Posted By: my440 on 06/22/18 03:39pm

Hi, hope you guys are all well, have not been here for abit. My 1978 Dodge Sportsman B300 440 ci. motorhome has a brake pedal that does not return. Need to pull it back with your toe to get the brake lights to turn off.
I removed the instrument cluster panel to access the pedal linkage area and lubed it up but to no avail.
Obviously there is not a spring to pull back the pedal that I see.
Any ideas? And the best way to troubleshot the cause so I can get the pedal to come back??
Thanks, really appreciate any assistance!
Brake pads drums calipers all new recently.

Posted By: StingrayL82 on 06/22/18 03:48pm

my440 wrote:

I just took my booster and master cylinder out, to replace them and the pedal dropped (which activates your brake lights, btw), so I would imagine that they keep the pedal in place.

Posted By: StingrayL82 on 06/22/18 04:12pm

TreeSeeker wrote:

I don't think the converter is causing ang problems. Don't remove it yet.

Okay, just went out and took readings with the multimeter:

[image]

White wire coming from converter:
[image]

Fuse panel wire (powers panel light, water pump & battery check)
[image]

Fridge wire
[image]

Exterior Light. The fuse panel is wrong, they typo'd the decal.
[image]

Interior Light
[image]

Stove/Oven Hood (Lights/Fan)
[image]

Heater

CO Detector
[image]

Fridge turned on to 12VDC Setting
[image]

Posted By: TreeSeeker on 06/22/18 04:38pm

Ok, that fuse panel looks way better than it did. And it seems to be working way better too. Is it still cool when the refer is on 12vdc?

Posted By: StingrayL82 on 06/22/18 04:40pm

TreeSeeker wrote:

Ok, that fuse panel looks way better than it did. And it seems to be working way better too. Is it still cool when the refer is on 12vdc?

Yes it is. I also just re-installed the house battery and connected it. Here is the resulting voltage at the converter and battery, respectively , and it appears that the converter/charger is doing its job. Keep in mind the house battery is 7 years old and is getting replaced with two Group 27 Deep Cycle batteries.

[image]

Posted By: TreeSeeker on 06/22/18 05:04pm

Ok, now it sounds like you are good to go. Don't forget to stock up on spare fuses, for both the fuse panel and the converter.

Posted By: j-d on 06/22/18 06:22pm

my440 wrote:

When we had a B300, we had that problem and traced it to the bellcrank that adapts the fore and aft push of the brake pedal, to the transverse booster/master cylinder assembly. I actually drilled it and tapped it for a grease fitting. Included lubing the bellcrank in my chassis lube routine.

Usually I edit a Quote down to only the item in question, but since you mention Instrument Panel, I remember the Instrument Cluster Ground was kinda goofy. It was a wire that ran down the firewall, under the floor mat, to a screw down by the floor. Not positive (sold the B300 in 1992. Might have been one of the two screws that held the Hi/Lo Headlight Button. Anyhow, make sure that connection is snug or your gauges will do odd things.

If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

Posted By: BitsPerSecond on 06/22/18 06:54pm

Besides the horrible splice made by the Dreaded Previous Owner, the cord appears fine. It looks like it is the correct size, just shorter than normal once I fix it. Replacing it is on the to do list when I get that far. For now, I ordered a new connector for it. I also ordered the parts I need to install the 30A Hookup on the side of the house. Cost me around 110 USD for everything. Plan on doing that next weekend.

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