StingrayL82 wrote:
The other option, and I don't know if it would work, is to swap out the Dodge axle shafts for the GM axle shafts. Correct me if I'm wrong, which is quite possible, but didn't GM use Dana 70 axles as well?
The other option, and I don't know if it would work, is to swap out the Dodge axle shafts for the GM axle shafts. Correct me if I'm wrong, which is quite possible, but didn't GM use Dana 70 axles as well?
I believe Dana was also used by GM in their heavier trucks, (as pointed out by Griff)
You do bring up an interesting possibility, but is a question that would probably best be answered by a drive train specialist.
I have had good luck with these folks.
http://www.idahodrivetrain.com/contact.html
Phone number, 208-475-2774.
My one time experience with them was good.
Downsizing ">
Ballenxj wrote:
You do bring up an interesting possibility, but is a question that would probably best be answered by a drive train specialist.
You do bring up an interesting possibility, but is a question that would probably best be answered by a drive train specialist.
Excellent recommendation.
For decades, I've relied heavily on Young's Gear and Drivelines in Fairbanks, Alaska. Mostly, they are my primary source for manuals, parts, and supplies for rebuilding automatic transmissions. But, they proven to be the best place for dealing with frustrating repair difficulties.
Case in point: Around twenty years ago, I had to replace the axle shaft in my '90 Ford E150 van due to a failed bearing. Instead of a bearing or race pressed on the axle shaft, Ford 8.8 rear axles rely on a hardened race machined onto the axle shaft.
Most people don't know lighter Ford Econoline vans use a special wide-track version of the Ford 8.8 axle. The axle shaft on one side is the same as all other 8.8 axles. The other side is several inches longer.
Every parts store in town kept insisting what they had in stock was correct. At one place, I wound up talking to the store manager, who became almost violent in repeatedly saying I was wrong. So, brought in the old axle shaft, with the galled bearing surface. He pulled axle shafts for both sides out of stock for comparison. Both of the new axle shafts were noticeably shorter than the shaft I put on the counter. (No need to measure, he could see the difference from ten feet away.)
Finally, I went to Young's Gear. As soon as I described my problem, the guy behind the parts counter said, "Oh, you have the special van version of the 8.8." He turned, walked in back, and came back with the correct axle. Total elapse time between walking in the door and walking out with the correct part was ten minutes ... plus, my cost was less than all the other places wanted for incorrect axle shafts.
(Yes, I wrote the corporation regarding the one manager's ignorance and behavior towards customers.)
Bottom line: Don't put yourself through a lot of frustration and misery. Rely on knowledge and experience ... find and talk to experts. That's what I do. Even if I'm absolutely sure, I still double check with experienced people I know.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
its ok at higher rpm but it will stall if I let up on gas.
I was diligent in starting it up and keeping it pretty straight. But I am at a loss. Carb or vacuum issue I'm guessing, Chilton is kind of vague though.
Any advice or help is appreciated. The past advice about flipping the old fridge upside down was spot on...
78 Dodge Brougham Sportsman. MB400. 360 2bl.
JoninFountain wrote:
So its been a while! After a few years of enjoyment, and some serious non rv time due to work and other non fun things like different days off etc. we are going to relocate and my rv has gotta go. One issue I'm having is it stalling when getting into gear. Engine is strong, and once I coax it into gear and going
its ok at higher rpm but it will stall if I let up on gas.
I was diligent in starting it up and keeping it pretty straight. But I am at a loss. Carb or vacuum issue I'm guessing, Chilton is kind of vague though.
Any advice or help is appreciated. The past advice about flipping the old fridge upside down was spot on...
So its been a while! After a few years of enjoyment, and some serious non rv time due to work and other non fun things like different days off etc. we are going to relocate and my rv has gotta go. One issue I'm having is it stalling when getting into gear. Engine is strong, and once I coax it into gear and going
its ok at higher rpm but it will stall if I let up on gas.
I was diligent in starting it up and keeping it pretty straight. But I am at a loss. Carb or vacuum issue I'm guessing, Chilton is kind of vague though.
Any advice or help is appreciated. The past advice about flipping the old fridge upside down was spot on...
Did you check the vacuum canister on the passenger frame rail, to see if there was a leak?
Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme
JoninFountain wrote:
So its been a while! After a few years of enjoyment, and some serious non rv time due to work and other non fun things like different days off etc. we are going to relocate and my rv has gotta go. One issue I'm having is it stalling when getting into gear. Engine is strong, and once I coax it into gear and going
its ok at higher rpm but it will stall if I let up on gas.
I was diligent in starting it up and keeping it pretty straight. But I am at a loss. Carb or vacuum issue I'm guessing, Chilton is kind of vague though.
Any advice or help is appreciated. The past advice about flipping the old fridge upside down was spot on...
So its been a while! After a few years of enjoyment, and some serious non rv time due to work and other non fun things like different days off etc. we are going to relocate and my rv has gotta go. One issue I'm having is it stalling when getting into gear. Engine is strong, and once I coax it into gear and going
its ok at higher rpm but it will stall if I let up on gas.
I was diligent in starting it up and keeping it pretty straight. But I am at a loss. Carb or vacuum issue I'm guessing, Chilton is kind of vague though.
Any advice or help is appreciated. The past advice about flipping the old fridge upside down was spot on...
Vacuum and carb is a good start. (I switched the two for a reason.)
"Ignition first, fuel second." A mantra taught to me by an oldtimer around 45 years ago.
Start by checking the distributor vacuum advance hose. A disconnected, leaking, or loose hose can cause stalling by throwing the ignition timing off.
StingrayL82 comment (above) is good. A major vacuum leak can keep the distributor vacuum advance from working.
Next, check the carburetor linkage and make sure the choke plate is opening freely. Also check the transmission downshift linkage, which is connected to the throttle and choke linkage.
Then, check the engine timing.
Report back once you've checked these and fixed any problems you find.
fuel filter changed, cleaned out the top half of the carb and jets are cleared, float, pump working fine.
We played the timing and advanced it a little and it hums nicely, Driving nice with power.
its at low speed with a load, or when Its first shifted into gear it can stall, I can nurse it thru forward to reverse with a little pedal play, and coax it into not stalling. when we close the choke a bit it runs wonderful but wide open it has the stall issue when put under load, again I can nurse it thru but shouldnt have to.
fuel/air seems to be an issue? back to research
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
JoninFountain wrote:
Vacuum doesnt seem to be the issue, might be missing something but checked connections, egr solenoid maybe, dont know when its supposed to kick off.
fuel filter changed, cleaned out the top half of the carb and jets are cleared, float, pump working fine.
We played the timing and advanced it a little and it hums nicely, Driving nice with power.
its at low speed with a load, or when Its first shifted into gear it can stall, I can nurse it thru forward to reverse with a little pedal play, and coax it into not stalling. when we close the choke a bit it runs wonderful but wide open it has the stall issue when put under load, again I can nurse it thru but shouldnt have to.
fuel/air seems to be an issue? back to research
Vacuum doesnt seem to be the issue, might be missing something but checked connections, egr solenoid maybe, dont know when its supposed to kick off.
fuel filter changed, cleaned out the top half of the carb and jets are cleared, float, pump working fine.
We played the timing and advanced it a little and it hums nicely, Driving nice with power.
its at low speed with a load, or when Its first shifted into gear it can stall, I can nurse it thru forward to reverse with a little pedal play, and coax it into not stalling. when we close the choke a bit it runs wonderful but wide open it has the stall issue when put under load, again I can nurse it thru but shouldnt have to.
fuel/air seems to be an issue? back to research
How old or fresh is your engine? Have you checked the timing chain?
Can you be more specific in location don't want to miss anything