Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
Most of those used butyl sealant tape which does deteriorate over a span of decades. It's also used on boats and yachts.
There's also marine sealants, for the same purpose, that comes in caulking gun tubes. Personally, I'd use the butyl tape as it has proven to be relatively durable.
For everyone, I have some windows, especially the 'slanted' ones, reclaimed from some early 70's motorhomes. They are complete, with the interior trim ring.
There's also sources for the u-channel seal if you want to refurbish sliding windows. (I don't have bulk sources at hand right now but auto glass shops may have it by the foot.)
RvFNG76 wrote:
Now the next question is how to replace the seal in my bunk window.
Now the next question is how to replace the seal in my bunk window.
Most of those used butyl sealant tape which does deteriorate over a span of decades. It's also used on boats and yachts.
There's also marine sealants, for the same purpose, that comes in caulking gun tubes. Personally, I'd use the butyl tape as it has proven to be relatively durable.
For everyone, I have some windows, especially the 'slanted' ones, reclaimed from some early 70's motorhomes. They are complete, with the interior trim ring.
There's also sources for the u-channel seal if you want to refurbish sliding windows. (I don't have bulk sources at hand right now but auto glass shops may have it by the foot.)
I mean the seal that holds the glass and seals it in the frame.
RvFNG76 wrote:
I mean the seal that holds the glass and seals it in the frame.
I mean the seal that holds the glass and seals it in the frame.
That's what I was what I was referring to when I mentioned u-channel seal. All the things you'd need to refurbish a window, in addition to installation supplies, are available. Again, local auto glass shops is a good place to start.
It's been quite a few years since I've restored any RV windows.
First step is to remove the window assembly from the motorhome. Remove the interior trim ring and gently pry the exterior part away from the body. Gently because it's possible to break the glass or bend the aluminum window frame.
During the manufacturing process, they start with a straight piece of extruded frame channel. It's bent to shape on mandrels.
It's possible to buy the frame channel but you need the mandrel tools to bend it successfully. On one job, the owner had bent the frame channel while removing the window. It was an odd shape so we couldn't find a replacement. The matching extruded frame channel was only sold in 8 foot sections and there was a hefty outsized shipping charge to Alaska. So, we cut a short section out of another window with matching frame channel and had it welding in place of the bent portion. (Total cost of the restoration was over $400, which the owner gladly paid because the RV entailed a significant degree of personal nostalgia.)
In most cases, the ends of the frame channel are left loose. (i.e., not connected) In some cases, the ends are connected via a short piece of aluminum pop-riveted in place. The rivets are usually special countersunk pop rivets, which can be difficult to find. (Aircraft repair suppliers are the best source for those rivets.)
In one case, the ends of the frame channel was welded together. In that case, we used a fine toothed, narrow bladed model-building saw to cut the frame channel open. We took our time and worked carefully. We also didn't have the frame channel re-welded because we believed welding was a case of going a bit overboard. (Using a model-building carefully left a barely perceptible gap.)
The ends of the frame channel should be at the bottom of the window. This is so water drains rather than collecting in the frame channel. If yours is located on the sides or -- especially -- the top of the window, take extra care with sealant when you reinstall the window.
Dismantling the window usually involves a coordinated two person operation. Gently expand the frame channel until the other person can remove the glass. Whatever you do, you want to avoid distorting or bending the frame channel. (A bend invariably destroys the channel and excessive expansion can make reassembly difficult.)
If the glass sealant is completely degraded, the frame channel may 'pop open' on its own. At the other extreme, you may need to use a solvent, such as acetone or MEK, to loosen the glass sealant. (I usually apply MEK before beginning disassembly, just to make sure the sealant 'lets go.')
Once you have everything apart, it's a case of cleaning everything up and reversing the process up to this point.
The glass sealant you want is the stuff used to install auto windshields. There should be guides on the internet, for installing windshields. View/read these so you know what's involved.
BTW -- the 'wire' windshield removal tools don't work well on RV window assemblies. (I got one job when a auto glass shop tried to use that tool and effectively destroyed the RV window assembly.)
* This post was last edited 04/07/18 03:04pm by Griff in Fairbanks *
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Once you find a shop willing and able to cut the glass, they will need the aluminum frame to use to mark and cut the glass to size and shape.
Avoid the temptation to use plastic sheet -- it's easier to work with but rarely lasts very long. (UV deterioration and road debris usually renders it unsightly.) There are products for restoring plastic appearance. The ones I use were originally developed for cleaning the lexan windshields in fighter jets, back around the time of the Korean and Vietnam wars.
* This post was edited 04/07/18 03:07pm by Griff in Fairbanks *
3/64" to 1/16" works best for drilling weep hole along the bottom of the frame. Any bigger and the holes are noticeable. Any smaller and surface tension prevents the water from draining completely. (In some cases, simply enlarging existing weep holes solve the problem.)
Note: As a general rule of thumb, "water goes where it wants to." The key to effective leak prevention is making the water go where you want it to go.
RvFNG76 wrote:
Thanks griff sounds like i have alot of fun on my hands next up is where to find the gasket material to do the window. Then the last piece of glass to do is the windsheild because the rubber seal has degraded and cracked.
Thanks griff sounds like i have alot of fun on my hands next up is where to find the gasket material to do the window. Then the last piece of glass to do is the windsheild because the rubber seal has degraded and cracked.
That locking rubber seal is readily available ... I plan to use it on the windshield for the boat I'm building. Marine repair suppliers is a good place to start looking.
I'm in the middle of working on some pressing matters. When I get those out of way, I'll look through my bookmarks for one or more links. (Assuming you haven't already found a source ... and I remember to go looking.)
One source is Steele Rubber Products.
Another is Trim-LOK.
I kinda prefer Trim-LOK because they also sell other restoration products, such as drip rails. Likewise, they sell tools, supplies, and consumables.
However, that's a personal bias ... I really don't have a basis for making a recommendation one way or the other. So, look at both (and other possible sourcea) and decide which may be best for you.
You can find other sources by googling "windshield gasket" or "windshield rubber gasket." (Variations on those search keywords may bring up other sources.)
In any case, you're going to need two pieces of information. (1) The thickness of your glass and (2) the thickness of the metal or FRP windshield flange on your motorhome's body or front cap.
RvFNG76 wrote:
Thanks griff sounds like i have alot of fun on my hands next up is where to find the gasket material to do the window. Then the last piece of glass to do is the windsheild because the rubber seal has degraded and cracked.
Thanks griff sounds like i have alot of fun on my hands next up is where to find the gasket material to do the window. Then the last piece of glass to do is the windsheild because the rubber seal has degraded and cracked.
Start with local auto glass shops ... they may be able to point you to a source or sell you the products they use.
I don't advertise. (The things I post on this thread is the closest I come to advertising.) So, potential customers arrive at my doorstep entirely due to word of mouth.
If you were to drive by my place, you probably wouldn't see any indication of my capabilities and what I do.
People have mentioned I actively avoid taking on new jobs, so I usually have to be talked into it. There's valid reasons for this ... mostly because there's other things I want to more. (Plus, I'm semi-retired ... and my wife sometimes makes pointed mention that I work harder now than I did before I retired.)
Money is NOT a major incentive for me. So, offering more money doesn't work as a convincing argument. (Unless you happen to catch me on the rare occasion when I actually need more money for some project.) Invariably, time is my most precious resource.
I can just about guarantee there's people like me located near you. They may experienced older people who are semi-retired. Others may be capable young people who are just getting started. So, use the grapevine ... talk with other people about what you need and want done.
I tell potential customers that the more they can do themselves, the less I have to charge them. People who are unwilling to do things themselves get charged premium rates, if I'm even willing to take the job. (People who are truly unable to do something tend to get a discount ... especially if it's apparent they recognize they may get in over their heads.)
Word of mouth is talk over a project with me before starting. I probably know the 'tricky' aspects that are best left to experience. (I frequently 'farm out' tasks because I lack the tools or experience ... and, for whatever reason, am unwilling to purchase the tools or gain the personal experience needed to do a good job.)
Enough rant ... mull these over.
* This post was edited 04/07/18 06:05pm by Griff in Fairbanks *