Eric Hysteric wrote:
You are right Griff, my Dodge has only 2 reartires :-) I have changed the rims from 16.5 to 16 zoll and bought tires for light trucks with letter C at the end of the size indication ("c" for commercial or cargo).
They have 2 load capacity indices, 1 when using as single tires and the 2. for dual tires.
You are right Griff, my Dodge has only 2 reartires :-) I have changed the rims from 16.5 to 16 zoll and bought tires for light trucks with letter C at the end of the size indication ("c" for commercial or cargo).
They have 2 load capacity indices, 1 when using as single tires and the 2. for dual tires.
Have your rear axle loading weighed. Most highway departments and law enforcement agencies have scales that can weigh individual axle loads. Most will do it for free, especially if they understand you want it done due to safety concerns.
Truckers in truck stops and coffee shops can tell you where to go to have it done. At a minimum, offer to pay for their coffee or meal. (It's an unwritten matter of social protocol ... and the info you'll get is worth more than the cost of a meal or round of coffee.) A lot of the info I post on this thread originally came from truckers and truck mechanics.
I know this works in North America and should work in Europe. (Vehicle weight enforcement may actually be more stringent in Europe, so it may be easier for you.)
If your rear axle weight load is more than 75 percent of the load capacity of the tires, you're on thin ice.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
What you're dealing with is not unusual ... somewhat expensive but fairly routine. I've dealt with many more extreme situations.
Take, for example, what I encountered when I started restoring the RM350 chassis. Someone, for some completely inexplicable reason, had put the rear springs on the front and the front springs on the rear. (Confirmed by matching the numbers stamped into the springs with the Dodge OEM Motor Home Parts Catalog.) Seven leafs on the front and three or four on the rear. (I think this is documented several hundred pages back in this thread.)
I can barely imagine what driving it that way was like and the thought scares the wits out of me. The cab probably felt like a bucking bronco and the rear probably gyrated more than the best hoochie-coochie dancer.
Honestly, if someone held a gun to my head and gave me a choice of driving the motorhome that way or mating with a moose, I'd choose the moose. Either way, I'd be going to hell but the moose would be the less intense and slower route.
As long as you're messing with the springs, replace the shackle bushings. I'd probably go with polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension or Prothane. Also, check the shackle hardware and mounts for unusual wear and tear. (New U-bolts are a good consideration.)
For S&Gs, I enter "motorhome." The website responded 99 percent positive and 1 percent negative. Website's conclusion, "The internet is absolutely positive about 'motorhome'."
For comparison, I typed in "sex." Result: 80.6 percent positive, 11.3 percent negative, and 8.1 percent indifferent.
Apparently, the internet likes motorhomes more than sex.
No complaints at all... even recommend it. There's pics on here somewhere.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
The 360 4bbl will be fired up, broken in and dyno'd in a couple of weeks, I'm just waiting for a few more ancillary parts. The 727 LoadFlite has been rebuilt, as have the drive shafts, balanced, painted and ready to go.
Yesterday I pulled the fuel tank. While the gas in it was rancid, the inside of the 51-gallon tank is pristine, no rust whatsoever. The sender still works, so it's getting a new filter sock and gasket. The tank is getting a good scrubbing and some fresh paint, along with new ethanol friendly hoses, as the old ones crumbled in my fingers.
The interior is finished, with the exception of a new toilet, completed by the man who did the interior for Monaco in 1976; he now owns a shop in Idaho. The result is spectacular, in my opinion.
I'm attaching some pics along with a question. If you look at the picture of the fuel tank, you'll see that the inlet is at the bottom. Now, I'm just a dumb linguist and not an engineer, but how can the fuel tank stay properly filled and not spew fuel back up the inlet hose?
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/JOnUIWll.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/3CN32qRl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/ntvazA9l.jpg)
Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme
StingrayL82 wrote:
Work on the restoration of the '76 Monaco Winchester progresses. I was able to get a new black tank made by the original manufacturer, Inca Plastics; they still have the original mold.
The 360 4bbl will be fired up, broken in and dyno'd in a couple of weeks, I'm just waiting for a few more ancillary parts. The 727 LoadFlite has been rebuilt, as have the drive shafts, balanced, painted and ready to go.
Yesterday I pulled the fuel tank. While the gas in it was rancid, the inside of the 51-gallon tank is pristine, no rust whatsoever. The sender still works, so it's getting a new filter sock and gasket. The tank is getting a good scrubbing and some fresh paint, along with new ethanol friendly hoses, as the old ones crumbled in my fingers.
The interior is finished, with the exception of a new toilet, completed by the man who did the interior for Monaco in 1976; he now owns a shop in Idaho. The result is spectacular, in my opinion.
Work on the restoration of the '76 Monaco Winchester progresses. I was able to get a new black tank made by the original manufacturer, Inca Plastics; they still have the original mold.
The 360 4bbl will be fired up, broken in and dyno'd in a couple of weeks, I'm just waiting for a few more ancillary parts. The 727 LoadFlite has been rebuilt, as have the drive shafts, balanced, painted and ready to go.
Yesterday I pulled the fuel tank. While the gas in it was rancid, the inside of the 51-gallon tank is pristine, no rust whatsoever. The sender still works, so it's getting a new filter sock and gasket. The tank is getting a good scrubbing and some fresh paint, along with new ethanol friendly hoses, as the old ones crumbled in my fingers.
The interior is finished, with the exception of a new toilet, completed by the man who did the interior for Monaco in 1976; he now owns a shop in Idaho. The result is spectacular, in my opinion.
WOW, that rig is going to be SWEET! Curious, did you find a new plastic housing for that ThermoQuad? That's one carb I'm not a fan of.
Who are you using for dynoing the engine?
Downsizing ">
Ballenxj wrote:
WOW, that rig is going to be SWEET! Curious, did you find a new plastic housing for that ThermoQuad? That's one carb I'm not a fan of.
Who are you using for dynoing the engine?
WOW, that rig is going to be SWEET! Curious, did you find a new plastic housing for that ThermoQuad? That's one carb I'm not a fan of.
Who are you using for dynoing the engine?
ThermoQuads get a bad reputation, because a lot of people don’t care for them properly, in my opinion. To me, they’re as easy to work on, and work just as well, as a Quadrajet. The phenolic bowl was immaculate, but I did have to take three of them to make one good carb. This SOB should scream.
The Dyno Shop is the name of the place, in Nampa, ID, that rebuilt the engine for me. Frank Quinlan is the most respected engine builder in the Treasure Valley, an old drag racer who’s forgotten more than I could ever learn. John McLean, another Mopar drag racer, redid the LF727.