Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: TreeSeeker on 07/12/17 04:51pm

The top fuse is labeled Batt+. Again it looks like they use black wires for the positive. Yikes!

First thing to do is to check the voltage at the black wire at that fuse. Check between there and ground. Then pull the fuse and check between the other side of the fuse holder and ground. If the second reading is higher than 12.4v, then the fuse is blown. Confirm this by checking the resistance across the fuse with your meter.

Hopefully that is it. You'll just need a new fuse.

However, I didn't see a converter in your pictures.

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 07/12/17 04:51pm

Email the picture to me and I'll post it for you.

I'll send you a PM (Private Message) with my email address.

I'm giving up (somewhat) trying to post for now. My connections to the electrical grid and internet have been unstable for the last several hours. (Alternating between multiple brief power outages and my ISP disconnecting repeatedly.)

1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 07/12/17 04:56pm

Never mind ... looks like you've figured out images.

TreeSeeker -

Color-coding for residential and commercial 120/240VAC wiring is different from what little standards exist for motor vehicle wiring. (And both are often different from ABYC standards for boats.)

Posted By: TreeSeeker on 07/12/17 04:59pm

Maya,

Even if you have a converter, unless it is a newer one you will still have issues. Mine puts out a constant 3 amps at 13.6v. This kind of current will boil your battery dry in several days. You'll need a smart battery maintainer. There was a discussion on this a couple of weeks ago on this forum. Look for it.

Posted By: Maya.215 on 07/12/17 05:05pm

Ok so I tested I'm getting 12.4 at the lines and ground and I also get 12.4 when I take the fuse out I still have the 12.4v

Posted By: Maya.215 on 07/12/17 05:08pm

I do have a battery maintainer that you plug in the wall have quite a few of them I use them to keep the kids atv battery's maintained while sitting for long periods could I use that?

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 07/12/17 05:10pm

Maya.215 wrote:

I do have a battery maintainer that you plug in the wall have quite a few of them I use them to keep the kids atv battery's maintained while sitting for long periods could I use that?

Yes, although it may take a while to recharge the battery.

TreeSeeker is right, the converter (power supply) could very well boil the battery dry.

Leeann has a combination power converter/battery charger/maintainer.

If yours is just a converter, you need a separate battery charger/maintainer (AND the converter and battery should be on switch that only allows one to provide power at a time ... see my posts on switches ... one diagram shows using an ON-ON switch for this purpose.)

Posted By: Maya.215 on 07/12/17 05:11pm

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Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 07/12/17 05:21pm

Schumacher is a brand I prefer and trust.

The SC1 is rated for 0.75 amps at 12 volts output. It's more a maintainer rather than a charger. At that rate, it could take a day or more to fully recharge a battery.

Because you already have it, it's worth using until you can get a more powerful charger/maintainer.

P.S. Excellent picture ... provided what I needed to look up specifications.

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 07/12/17 05:28pm

Here's a repost of the diagram, so you don't have to look back through pages of the forum.

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The bottom example shows how your converter (12 VDC Power Supply) and coach/house battery (12VDC Deep Cycle Battery) should be connected to the Coach Electrical System.

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