Propane is for dry camping, 120V is for plug-in camping.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
Quote:
11. 12 VOLT DC CONNECTION This refrigerator model requires a 12 volt DC power source to operate the automatic energy system (even though it is designed to operate on 120 volts AC and gas). The DC lead connections are at terminals located at the rear of the refrigerator. (See FIG. 6). One lead is marked positive (+) and the other negative (–). Correct polarity must be observed when connecting to the DC supply.
Do not use the chassis or vehicle frame as one of the conductors. Connect two wires at the refrigerator and route to the DC supply.
11. 12 VOLT DC CONNECTION This refrigerator model requires a 12 volt DC power source to operate the automatic energy system (even though it is designed to operate on 120 volts AC and gas). The DC lead connections are at terminals located at the rear of the refrigerator. (See FIG. 6). One lead is marked positive (+) and the other negative (–). Correct polarity must be observed when connecting to the DC supply.
Do not use the chassis or vehicle frame as one of the conductors. Connect two wires at the refrigerator and route to the DC supply.
It doesn't make sense that the refer would be getting it's 12v from the ignition system. It needs the 12v to run the control board whether it is running on gas or 120v. So if the ignition is off the refer is off.
Don't confuse this with the refer running the cooling system on 12v only. This refer doesn't have that capability according the manual.
So, I would just try running some jumper wires from the board's 12v inputs to the 12v house battery to see if that solves the problem.
Since this is not the original fridge, who knows how it was wired.
Look at Figure 6 on page 5 of the manual. See where it says "12volt Terminal Block." (Actually it says "12 V olt Terminal B lock") It is confusing. Anyway there should be + and - markings on it. That is where you need to put the jumpers.
You can also test these connections with a volt meter when it is turned on with the ignition. This way you can tell which is positive and negative and confirm that those have power with the ignition on. Then turn off the ignition and they will probably not have power. What were they thinking when the wired this?
Let us know what you find.
OK, when it is hooked up the way it was originally, and the ignition on, and the display lit, use your voltmeter to determine which is terminal is positive and negative.
I say this because the way you are describing it sounds like the terminals are marked wrong, but this seem really unlikely. So, lets confirm with the volt meter.
Don't trust the color of the wires because we know these were not factory installed. They didn't have controller boards back when your RV was built.
We also know, that those wires are connected directly or indirectly to the ignition system. Now, according to the manual (and common sense) this is not correct. Thus the refer is only on when the key is on. Not helpful.
They need to connected directly to the house battery. So, just for a confirmation test, disconnect the two wires from the controller board, and then run jumpers to the house battery and see if the display panel is lit. If so, you then need to run permanent wires to the house battery.
If you can salvage some of the original wires perhaps you can use them (but, make sure to connect black to negative and white to positive). If you have to use different wires, make sure they are multi-stranded. Single strand wires don't handle flexing well and tend to crack.
Let me know how the test goes.
Leeann wrote:
12V is only for the road. No ignition, no 12V supplied by the alternator/battery.
Propane is for dry camping, 120V is for plug-in camping.
12V is only for the road. No ignition, no 12V supplied by the alternator/battery.
Propane is for dry camping, 120V is for plug-in camping.
My apologies. As I said, I was tired so I wasn't clear. (I should have kept my mouth shut.)
Leeann is correct in terms of when to use propane or 120VAC. I was speaking in terms of how well refrigerators keep things cool or frozen, without regards to which is the better energy source to use and when.
When we were living off the grid, and had a propane refrigerator in our house as well as in our motorhome, we had to keep an eye on the propane supply to be sure to change tanks when one ran out.
120VAC is more reliable and hassle free because it's always available. (Unless you trip a circuit breaker or there's a power outage.)
TreeSeeker wrote:
It doesn't make sense that the refer would be getting it's 12v from the ignition system. It needs the 12v to run the control board whether it is running on gas or 120v. So if the ignition is off the refer is off.
Don't confuse this with the refer running the cooling system on 12v only. This refer doesn't have that capability according the manual.
So, I would just try running some jumper wires from the board's 12v inputs to the 12v house battery to see if that solves the problem.
Since this is not the original fridge, who knows how it was wired.
It doesn't make sense that the refer would be getting it's 12v from the ignition system. It needs the 12v to run the control board whether it is running on gas or 120v. So if the ignition is off the refer is off.
Don't confuse this with the refer running the cooling system on 12v only. This refer doesn't have that capability according the manual.
So, I would just try running some jumper wires from the board's 12v inputs to the 12v house battery to see if that solves the problem.
Since this is not the original fridge, who knows how it was wired.
Likewise, TreeSeeker is clearer and more correct than I was.
His last sentence is important. Whoever installed the replacement refrigerator could very well have made questionable choices, not read and understood the manual completely, or was relying in general experience rather than focusing on the specific task at hand.
His second to last sentence is the most appropriate way to troubleshoot. However, I would isolate the refrigerator and battery to make sure nothing else interferes with the troubleshooting. Specifically, your test should consist of the refrigerator 12v terminal block, a positive jumper wire, a negative jumper wire, and a battery, with nothing else connected to the battery or the refrigerator. I'd also make sure the refrigerator is not connected to 120v by unplugging the refrigerator or, preferably, the motorhome.
TreeSeeker is perfectly correct in pointing out I was confusing things by discussing RV refrigerators in general rather than Maya's case specifically. (And, unfortunately, Leeann followed suit.)
Finally, I keep typing "refrigerator" because I grew up in the '60s and early '70s ... a "refer" was something people smoked and a "refrigerator" (or just "fridge") was something people used to keep their beer cold.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Hmm, I just read your last message again and I am not sure what "they" means. Are you referring to the wires being backwards, or the terminals being marked wrong? I assumed it was the wires--black to positive terminal and white to negative terminal.