In direct current (DC) circuits, the electricity travels in one direction only, from the source through the connections and load and back to the source. In alternating current (AC) circuits, electricity flows in one direction and then quickly reverses to the opposite direction.
Most people understand that electricity is the manifestation of electron movement. It's easy to imagine electrons traveling all the way around the circuit in direct current. However, this visualization tends to fall apart when people consider alternating current. Even at the speed of light, it's difficult to imagine electrons flowing all the way around a circuit and then back again in the opposite direction.
In fact, electrons don't really move much at all. What actually happens is atoms bump into each other and their electrons transfer energy to the electrons on other atoms. This transfer of energy, from electron to electron and atom to atom, is what electricity really is. (Yes, this is a crude description but suitable for our discussion.)
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Maya.215 wrote:
My prayers go out to Leeann hope all goes well in surgery. So I have been thinking this whole week about these tankless hot water heaters, I haven't tried to start the one I have in my rv yet it looks pretty corroded and rusty in there ?? And I noticed it only has a 6gallon tank to it. I have three kids and one likes to take long hot showers besides I like mines as well and them 6gallons are going to go quick. So I was thinking About the tankless ones if any one has used one of these before? How hot do they actually get? And any opinions on a brand or the heaters themselves thanks
My prayers go out to Leeann hope all goes well in surgery. So I have been thinking this whole week about these tankless hot water heaters, I haven't tried to start the one I have in my rv yet it looks pretty corroded and rusty in there ?? And I noticed it only has a 6gallon tank to it. I have three kids and one likes to take long hot showers besides I like mines as well and them 6gallons are going to go quick. So I was thinking About the tankless ones if any one has used one of these before? How hot do they actually get? And any opinions on a brand or the heaters themselves thanks
First, before trying the water heater in your motorhome, have it checked out by a competent propane technician. (The same goes for your furnace, propane regulator(s), and piping.)
Tankless water heaters are definitely worth considering. Unlike the water heater in your motorhome, as well as in most people's homes, tankless water heaters don't waste a lot of propane (or electricity ... or fuel oil, etc.) keeping the water hot even when you're not using it. (Some motorhome owners keep the propane turned off until they want hot water ... and have to plan ahead to allow it to bring the water up to temperature.)
We've never used the water heater in any of our recreational vehicles. Instead, we just heat water on the stove to do dishes, wash up, etc.
My main concern is the amount of available water and the water pressure. Unless you're hooked to a tap, you could quickly empty your fresh water tank. Likewise, the water pump may not have enough flow or pressure to make a tankless heater work properly.
Note: Many truck stops, campgrounds, some laundormats, etc. have showers available. You might find it better to use these rather than trying to shower in your motorhome.
As far as I know, all RV water heaters are propane, diesel, and/or 120VAC. Any 12VDC connection is either for pumps or igniters (versus pilot lights or piezoelectric igniters).
I have heard of some tanked heaters that use a heat exchanger to help keep the water in the tank hot when the engine is running.
I have an outside shower unit that I'll be installing on MLP, but it will be mostly for rinsing off. Inside "facilities" will be limited to a head and a sink for washing up.
The 1972 M375 motorhome that was given to me has a (very small) tub in it. By my calculations, it'd take half the fresh water tank to put just a few inches in the tub. So, it'd only really be usable at campsites with full hook-ups. More than likely, the price of a full hook-up campsite would be more than using the showers at the campground. (At campgrounds we've visited, access to the shower facilities was include in the price of all campsite, including the 'primitive' sites.)
I'm not trying to discourage you but don't be surprised if you're less than satisfied with 'onboard' showering.
Be careful with those water pumps. The 100psi pump could very well overwhelm your motorhome's plumbing and the 60psi might do likewise. It's worth noting that most RV supply stores sell pressure limiters for use when a RV is connected to a tap. (Most well pumps run at 30 or 60 psi.)
According to him, he'd need a trailer with a 250 to as much as 1,000 gallon tank to keep up with his showering for more than a day or, at most, two.
RV showers in older rigs weren't really meant to take house showers. They're more meant for water restriction/drought showers.
I thought I had posted about this, but it seems I forgot. I fell down a set of concrete steps and landed, elbow first, on a concrete pad last Saturday. Transected the humurus (broke the upper arm bone in two) about mid-shaft. Plus, unfortunately, fractured the lower piece from the break down into my elbow. Now I get to have surgery to make me even more non-TSA friendly than before.
Thanks for all the good thoughts, guys. I appreciate it.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
Every year to two years, disinfect your freshwater tank with a bleach solution of one to two tablespoons regular bleach per gallon of water, filling the tank at least 3/4 full and drive around for 15 minutes or so, turning frequently with lots of stop and go to get the bleach solution sloshing all around inside the tank.
Then, run the the bleach solution through all your plumbing lines (galley sink, bathroom sink, shower, and head) for two minutes per line.
If you have a separate gray water tank, fill it at least 3/4 full of the bleach solution (it will be partially full due to flushing the plumbing lines) and drain the rest of the bleach into black water tank through the head. Drive around again as before to get bleach solution splashing around inside the gray/black water tanks.
Drain the bleach solution into an RV dump site and refill the freshwater tank with known-safe potable water and repeat the whole process to flush out the bleach, including completely draining the whole system again.
Finally, refill your fresh water tank again with known-safe potable water. At this point, your fresh water tank and plumbing should be mostly germ-free and the water safe to drink.
(Previously in this thread was a discussion on cleaning your black water tank versus just partially disinfecting as described here.)
Add 1-2 teaspoons of baking soda per gallon of water when refilling your fresh water tank to keep the water from going stale and tasting "off." The baking soda won't harm you (and will actually act as an antacid) but may affect some recipes that rely on acids such as vinegar or fruit juice.
Note: You must use regular chlorine bleach ... non-chlorine bleach will not work for disinfecting. The ingredient to look for on the label is sodium hypochlorite. Because you'll be flushing the system completely, it doesn't matter if the bleach contains added soaps, perfumes, and dyes.
Also, this bleach solution is much, much stronger than that used to disinfect drinking water ... well above EPA maximum safe levels for drinking water so be sure to flush your plumbing system completely.
Finally, be sure to use fresh bleach. Chlorine bleach had a finite shelf life, losing 20 to 50 percent of it's effectiveness in a year.