goreds2 wrote:
I have the 1989 Dodge Explorer Class B. When plugged in, does the motor battery charge just as the cabin battery does?
I have the 1989 Dodge Explorer Class B. When plugged in, does the motor battery charge just as the cabin battery does?
It's unlikely.
Most RVs do not charge the engine battery from the cabin battery charging system, only from the engine while running.
Also you should be aware that most older RVs charge the cabin battery at a fixed amp and voltage. My RV is a 1979 and it charges at 13.6 v and 3 amps which boils the batter dry in several days. I put a disconnect switch in so I can leave the RV plugged in and not charge it from the converter. I have battery maintainers (not trickle charges) for both the engine and cabin batteries. These can be left on indefinitely.
You can test whether your engine battery is getting charged by using a volt meter to check the voltage at the engine battery while the RV is on shore power. If the voltage is over 13v then it is getting charged. You can confirm by removing the shore power and the voltage should drop.
See Picture In My Profile
I have a 1989 Dodge XPLORER RV Class B - Purchased 10/15/10 IN CASH
Fiance' purchased a Class C 2002 Dynamax Carri-go on 5/1/15 IN CASH
We've got the best of both worlds
So starting to run out of things to try and check.
Overheating... running hot.
In 2013, the Waterpump went out and was replaced. Around 2009 or so the engine was rebuilt. Maybe 10-12,000 miles at most with the rebuilt motor. Last fall I did replace the thermostat, Found out it had the wrong one installed. I did track down and install a 180 degree skirted thermostat. I'm wondering if maybe the 440-3 engine that is in the RV requires a special part for the water pump as it did with the thermostat.
About the only thing I have found online for a resolution to my problem was someone who used some acid based flush that solved the issue.
It idles OK, seems OK until I get up to high way speed.. starting about 50mph, the temp climbs.... from about 3/4 5/6 gauge upward.
I want to travel a few places yet this year but am having problems getting out of town. Any ideas or questions for me?
Second item... Speedo cable. It came with some cruise control on it. IT worked back in 2007, doubt it works any longer. Don't think I need to try and keep it in line... so single cable that goes to the tranny would be fine. Unless you may know what to get for the cruise control module.
That's a couple starter questions...
Speedo cables, I have a link to Lokar:
http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/throttlecables-kickdowns/tc-kd-pgs/throttle-cables.html
If I remember correctly, though, my local guy got me the right one for ours (I brought in the old and he matched it). Our cruise control, which is an add-on and not factory, has never worked properly so I think we just bypassed it.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
The reverse of your situation is typical, with overheating occurring at low RPMs and going back to normal as RPMs increase.
Over the years, I've seen two cases where the thermostat was installed upside down. The "wax" capsule, usually copper colored, needs to go down, into the coolant.
Your fan belt may be slipping at higher RPMs.
Some high performance water pumps have more vanes ... if I recall correctly, eight vanes versus standard six.
If your fan has a clutch, the clutch may be malfunctioning.
Is your lower radiator hose in good shape? Suction at higher RPMs may be causing an old/soft hose to collapse, restricting coolant flow.
Conversely, a partially blocked upper hose could allow enough flow at low RPMs but not enough at higher RPMs.
Make sure the radiator cap fits properly and has the right pressure rating. A new cap costs less than $10 and is cheap insurance. (I often replace them just to be sure.)
Does your radiator steadily lose coolant? A radiator without an overflow recover tank will have some air space at the top, with the air acting as a pressure cushion. However, the core should remain completely immersed.
(The moose eliminated the overflow recovery tank from our van so the van loses some coolant over time. We just have to be careful to check the coolant regularly to make sure we haven't lost too much.)
Finally, your engine temp sensor or gauge may be giving incorrect readings.
If all these things check out okay, then your radiator is partially plugged and needs to be taken to a radiator shop for cleaning or re-core. (Radiator shops are the only places that can really do an acid flush because the radiator needs to be out of the vehicle.)
* This post was edited 07/30/16 01:36pm by Griff in Fairbanks *
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Lokar is a good place to start. There is a place that makes cables for older vehicles, such as the cables for old pushbutton A727 transmissions, but I can't seem to find the link for their site.
Assuming you have a Class C, a B100/200/300 van cable should fit. Class A's often have different cables due to difference in cab manufacture but Class C's have the same cab as vans, with the same distance between the instrument cluster and tranny speedo gear.
Unless you really, really want cruise control, do what Leeann suggests and go with a standard non-cruise cable. (Older cruise controls tend to be problematic due to being mechanical mechanisms rather than the newer computer controlled electronic systems ... I usually chuck cruise controls on older vehicles.)
When I get unbusy, I plan to resume my discussion of batteries and charging systems. (The same with kingpins ... but, it's summer and I need to work on the house when it's not pouring down liquid sunshine.)
I'll check into the cable. I will more than likely bypass the cruise control. I had a custom one made a while back by Southern Speedometer but it didn't quite fit right, and eventually broke.
"Over the years, I've seen two cases where the thermostat was installed upside down. The "wax" capsule, usually copper colored, needs to go down, into the coolant."
- I'm going to assume the current thermostat is installed correctly as it would only fit/work one way, with the skirt facing down.
"Your fan belt may be slipping at higher RPMs."
- Felt tight when we checked
"Some high performance water pumps have more vanes ... if I recall correctly, eight vanes versus standard six."
- Not sure I'm up to taking it apart.....
"If your fan has a clutch, the clutch may be malfunctioning."
- The clutch is relatively new as well. Seems to be functioning properly. The fan is turning when the engine is hot...
"Is your lower radiator hose in good shape? Suction at higher RPMs may be causing an old/soft hose to collapse, restricting coolant flow."
- That might be a possibility, This too is fairly new. I replaced it a few years back when I had the radiator recored due to leaks. However.. it does seem a little 'soft' to the squeeze. I'm sure it gets worse as the temperature rises. Perhaps a correct part number for this part. I had to adapt a lower hose before. Found something close and cut it to fit.
"Conversely, a partially blocked upper hose could allow enough flow at low RPMs but not enough at higher RPMs."
-Upper hose is good.
"Make sure the radiator cap fits properly and has the right pressure rating. A new cap costs less than $10 and is cheap insurance. (I often replace them just to be sure.)"
-I knew I forgot something at the store earlier today. Perhaps another trip is order. As the RV is not here. What pressure cap do I need? I feel like I bought one of those a while back as well.
"Does your radiator steadily lose coolant? A radiator without an overflow recover tank will have some air space at the top, with the air acting as a pressure cushion. However, the core should remain completely immersed."
-No. New core a couple years back. Has a recovery tank... although I was going to check to make sure there was sufficient coolant in the recovery tank.
"Finally, your engine temp sensor or gauge may be giving incorrect readings."
- I hit it with one of our racing laser temp guns.... its definitely hot.
Thanks for the checklist.
Actually, the fan clutch is supposed to release at higher speeds, when airflow through the radiator is sufficient without the fan turning. If it doesn't release, it could create drag on the water pump, causing insufficient coolant flow.
Try using belt dressing on the fan belt and see if that helps any. (Belt dressing increase friction between the pulley and belt ... a stuck fan clutch could cause the belt to slip in the fan pulley.)
The radiator cap for the same year/engine B300 van should be correct.
To check the lower hose, bring the engine up to temperature at idle and, while watching the hose, have someone bring the RPMs up to a steady mid-range, about 3000 RPM. Hold it steady there for a few minutes and watch if the hose starts to collapse. BE VERY CAREFUL to make sure the vehicle doesn't move while you're down there watching the hose. Also, BEWARE of the fan ... it's basically a whirling set of knives.
Most lower radiator hoses have springs inside the hose or metal rings embedded it the rubber to keep them from collapsing. I'd need the year to look up the correct hose. (19xx/B300/440).
As a rule, if I can't find an OEM spec hose, I use non-specific hoses with the ridges along its length ... those are more resistant to collapse.
BTW - high performance water pumps aren't really necessary in anything other than race engines and constant desert operation.
* This post was edited 07/30/16 03:04pm by Griff in Fairbanks *
I'm always a little scared of fans and spinning belts. Especially being a longhair.