Ballenxj wrote:
Well, Good to see you back, and that things are improving. Catching up on replies? Yup, that ought to keep you busy for a short while at the least. ;-)
Well, Good to see you back, and that things are improving. Catching up on replies? Yup, that ought to keep you busy for a short while at the least. ;-)
Hurrah! I got an email notice of your addition to the thread.
While working on the house I thought of something that might be useful in some situations for the people on this thread ... 3M All Weather Flashing Tape 8067.
It ain't purty because it covered with brand markings and code citations so building GC's and inspectors can see what was used. (Most motorhome sealants are designed to look pretty from the outside.)
That said, it appears to be the best possibility for sealing leaks. It sticks to everything, is very flexible, and is puncture resistant.
It's a PITA to work with ... it grabs everything it can and doesn't like to let go. (Removing it to make permanent repairs will probably take a bit of work.) It gums up scissors and tries to stick to razor knife blades. If you have touch the sticky side, do so lightly. If you grasp it firmly, you're going to have a tussle getting it loose from your fingers.
So far, I've tested it on old wood, concrete block, polyethylene, and tar paper. I've decided it's better than the red construction seaming tape (3M 8087 and others). It is possible to get it loose from wood and concrete but only if you really want it to come off. It won't come off polyethylene without tearing the plastic. (Haven't tried removing it from tar paper yet.)
I haven't tested it through an 80 above to 40 below zero cycle yet but am confident it will stand up to those extremes. (In interior Alaska, everybody starts moaning and groaning about how hot it is if the temperature goes above 75°F.)
The red tape should only be used on house wrap and vapor retarder/barrier. Otherwise, it's not much better than duct tape anywhere else.
Yes, I have a very low opinion of duct tape. I usually only have one roll around and the adhesive tends to dry out and lose it's "sticky" long before I get around to using it. (For me, masking tape works just as well or better.)
Even the so-called "hundred-mile-an-hour" tape should only be used for temporary situations, with emphasis on temporary.
On the other hand, a person with a bit of boatbuilding experience could make a serviceable boat using cardboard and the 8067 tape and expect it to last several years.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
That said, it appears to be the best possibility for sealing leaks. It sticks to everything, is very flexible, and is puncture resistant.
On the other hand, a person with a bit of boatbuilding experience could make a serviceable boat using cardboard and the 8067 tape and expect it to last several years.
That said, it appears to be the best possibility for sealing leaks. It sticks to everything, is very flexible, and is puncture resistant.
On the other hand, a person with a bit of boatbuilding experience could make a serviceable boat using cardboard and the 8067 tape and expect it to last several years.
Glad to hear you're getting your subscription notifications again.
That's some useful info on the 8067 flashing tape, and I can't wait until somebody (besides me) tries to build a boat from that and cardboard. I "would" like to be there when they launch it though. ;-)
Downsizing ">
PoorGary wrote:
Thats that. Replaced front calipres and short hoses. Jacked up rear end and beat the **** out of the drums. Had the drivers side wheel break free then dropped it back down to the ground drove hard ahead freeing the other. Thanks Griff. I mean thanks!!
Thats that. Replaced front calipres and short hoses. Jacked up rear end and beat the **** out of the drums. Had the drivers side wheel break free then dropped it back down to the ground drove hard ahead freeing the other. Thanks Griff. I mean thanks!!
You're welcome ... that's what we're here for.
You used the same technique on the rear brakes that I've used in the past and would have probably tried in your case.
I would, however, pull and rebuild the rear brakes just to make sure they're working correctly and are in good condition. It sounds like the shoes were stuck to the drum, the parking (aka emergency) brake mechanism corroded or gummed up, or the wheel cylinders were gummed up or corroded.
Also, I'd lube the parking brake cables and make sure everything is properly adjusted and working correctly. (I ran across a case, years ago, where the rear drums kept locking up because someone had over-tightened the parking brake adjuster.)
I know this is extra work but it prevents, or at least reduces, the need to deal with the issues again in the near future. (In the military there's saying that always raised my hackles -- "We never have time to do it right the first time but we always have time to do it over.")
BTW, from my MSF instructor training -- most of your braking power. as much as 70 percent, comes from the front brakes. I watched a buddy punch a hole in a hedge with my 75th Anniversary Edition Electra-Glide because he was wary of motorcycle front brakes. (My bike had to older single-piston rear brake caliper whereas he was used to the dual-piston rear caliper on his newer Sportster, which didn't help the situation ... I proved I could stop my older heavier Electra-Glide faster than he could with his newer lighter Sportster, all just by also using the front brake.)
It's worth considering your rear brakes control four of the six friction patches in contact with the road when you're trying to stop. Weight differences aside, our motorhomes should be able to stop better because we have six friction patches versus the four on most vehicles. (This is why you see so many 4x4's in the ditch during snow- and ice-storms ... they have the same amount of stopping potential as every other four-wheel vehicle on the road.)
Ballenxj wrote:
Best of luck on your journeys.
new v'er wrote:
Still will camp but not sure what the road holds up ahead as we are retiring in 2017.
Still will camp but not sure what the road holds up ahead as we are retiring in 2017.
Best of luck on your journeys.
If it's any encouragement, my wife and I will probably be in our 70's before we get back into a position to go like we did decades ago ... but that's not stopping us from trying to get there.
* This post was edited 07/16/16 07:17pm by z89101 *
z89101 wrote:
Geez, how can this "tomb of dodge rv" become a thread with sections and categorical indexing. Or,
Perhaps a PDF reconstruct for download?
Amazing info, great fun and clarity - all mashed into a downloadable - Searchable stew of knowledge... Online is better, but if the powers that be determine to maintain this huge stream of conscience as is, then pdf it for the mortals that want to keep these beasts running well.
Geez, how can this "tomb of dodge rv" become a thread with sections and categorical indexing. Or,
Perhaps a PDF reconstruct for download?
Amazing info, great fun and clarity - all mashed into a downloadable - Searchable stew of knowledge... Online is better, but if the powers that be determine to maintain this huge stream of conscience as is, then pdf it for the mortals that want to keep these beasts running well.
Time is the issue ... every time I get my hands on "a round toit," it instantly bursts into flame.
Years ago, there was the start of an effort to collect and organize all the info in this thread, back when the RV.NET management tried to shut off this thread.
The resources are still there for doing what you suggest. What's needed are volunteers to do the collecting and organizing.
The RV.Net forums aren't designed/intended for that kind of information storage and retrieval, although they might be convinced to host it once it put together and people volunteer to maintain it.
The past effort was going to be built and (initially) hosted on a server account I have. The main domain (www.riffgan.com) is maintained for my personal and business activities. (Most of what's there is "hidden" ... i.e., the url's are provided to people who need and are authorized to access them.)
That server account also has an add-on domain, which currently only has one subdomain (forum.mopartrucksandstuff.com), which is still active but hasn't been used for quite a while. Other subdomains could be added to collect and archive the information in this thread.
Note: The mopartrucksandstuff.com add-on domain only costs me $10 per year, so I'm not interested in, and do not want, donations. The primary domain (riffgan.com) is proprietary so I cover that expense regardless.
All this is a possibility for collecting and organizing the wealth of information contained in this thread. Nothing I'm suggesting is intended to compete with RV.NET. My preference is to supplement RV.NET with resources outside their apparent scope.
BTW - when I get around to it, I want to update the www.riffgan.com/motorhome/ pages, reorganizing, expanding, and bringing them up to date. Currently, I can see a light at the end of the tunnel to getting back to working on MLP (My Little Project) ... hopefully the light is not an approaching train.
Ballenxj wrote:
That's some useful info on the 8067 flashing tape, and I can't wait until somebody (besides me) tries to build a boat from that and cardboard. I "would" like to be there when they launch it though. ;-)
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
That said, it appears to be the best possibility for sealing leaks. It sticks to everything, is very flexible, and is puncture resistant.
On the other hand, a person with a bit of boatbuilding experience could make a serviceable boat using cardboard and the 8067 tape and expect it to last several years.
That said, it appears to be the best possibility for sealing leaks. It sticks to everything, is very flexible, and is puncture resistant.
On the other hand, a person with a bit of boatbuilding experience could make a serviceable boat using cardboard and the 8067 tape and expect it to last several years.
That's some useful info on the 8067 flashing tape, and I can't wait until somebody (besides me) tries to build a boat from that and cardboard. I "would" like to be there when they launch it though. ;-)
Don't tempt me ... I've owned and operated boats for almost 50 years, since I was in elementary school, and have built a couple over the years.
In addition to building a house and rebuilding/restoring/customizing a motorhome, I'm currently in the process of building an 18 foot skiff based on Bolger's Diablo Grande design. (Research on that project's electrical system lead to the dissertation on batteries.)
My son works in an appliance store's service department so he could probably get the cardboard from refrigerator/freezer shipping containers.
BTW - Fairbanks, Alaska, hosts an annual Red Green Regatta, in which the entries are required, naturally, to use duct tape as a primary component.
z89101 wrote:
How many have the 163" wb MB400? 13" rear brakes... PM - parts sourcing. Winnebago 1978 mb24 is one of very few. A bunkhouse model like mine,.
How many have the 163" wb MB400? 13" rear brakes... PM - parts sourcing. Winnebago 1978 mb24 is one of very few. A bunkhouse model like mine,.
What parts are you looking for? Finding parts for motorhomes are a bit of an art so posting guidance would lengthy.
Leeann and I both have a lot of resources. My resources generally cover older motorhome and focus on chassis, suspension, and drive train. Leeann is better at coach components, like furnaces, stoves, power converters, etc., although she also some resources for newer chassis. (Newer being relative ...)
Specific questions are best. Otherwise, we run the risk of repeating what's already posted or resorting to generalities that aren't very helpful.
With the right information, I can find sources for specific parts/components/systems but need to know what you're looking for and/or trying to do.
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
What parts are you looking for? Finding parts for motorhomes are a bit of an art so posting guidance would lengthy.
Leeann and I both have a lot of resources. My resources generally cover older motorhome and focus on chassis, suspension, and drive train. Leeann is better at coach components, like furnaces, stoves, power converters, etc., although she also some resources for newer chassis. (Newer being relative ...)
Specific questions are best. Otherwise, we run the risk of repeating what's already posted or resorting to generalities that aren't very helpful.
With the right information, I can find sources for specific parts/components/systems but need to know what you're looking for and/or trying to do.
z89101 wrote:
How many have the 163" wb MB400? 13" rear brakes... PM - parts sourcing. Winnebago 1978 mb24 is one of very few. A bunkhouse model like mine,.
How many have the 163" wb MB400? 13" rear brakes... PM - parts sourcing. Winnebago 1978 mb24 is one of very few. A bunkhouse model like mine,.
What parts are you looking for? Finding parts for motorhomes are a bit of an art so posting guidance would lengthy.
Leeann and I both have a lot of resources. My resources generally cover older motorhome and focus on chassis, suspension, and drive train. Leeann is better at coach components, like furnaces, stoves, power converters, etc., although she also some resources for newer chassis. (Newer being relative ...)
Specific questions are best. Otherwise, we run the risk of repeating what's already posted or resorting to generalities that aren't very helpful.
With the right information, I can find sources for specific parts/components/systems but need to know what you're looking for and/or trying to do.
I don't know about him, but 'I' need an emergency brake cable right about 170" long. Where it broke (inside the sheathing) got all frayed because the previous owner couldn't leave well enough alone, and apparently couldn't even tell which end of a screwdriver to hold...
Okay, scratch that last sentence, that was unkind. Some people are born 'mechanically inclined', and some people are born 'mechanically disinclined'. At any rate, the cable ends are frayed, and I'm unable to get an exact measurement. I've tried ALMOST everywhere in Reno (still have one more place to call), and looking at getting a cable manufactured - which leads into a whole new can of worms that I'd rather not deal with if possible.
I'm wondering about the labeling on mine, because even IF a company has information on a m300 chassis, it always seems to come up a little 'short' or 'undersized' when compared to what I'm dealing with.
Welcome back, Griff!!! For Heaven's sake, do NOT over-do things. Don't make me turn Kat loose on you, she'll hand you all kinds of parts of your anatomy in a paper bag!!!
(family joke: one time my ex-wife and daughter were having 'differences', and called me to referee. Kat said "Hand me the phone", and proceeded to read my daughter the riot act. After Kat was done, she told my daughter to hand the phone to her mother. Renee was laughing when she took the phone, and told Kat that Michelle had said "She just handed me my a$$ in a paper bag"!)