'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
I know you guys dont recommend it but in a pinch it would work?
And what about a bottle jack..rather than a floor jack? Whats best?
It seems to me back in the day everything was jacked up off the front bumper.
PoorGary wrote:
Ok thanks. The next size up will cost me 599.00. Wont spend that. How about for lifting up the front wheels then putting in the jackstands. If the stands are in place then if the 3 ton jack failed it would stay up on the stands.
I know you guys dont recommend it but in a pinch it would work?
And what about a bottle jack..rather than a floor jack? Whats best?
It seems to me back in the day everything was jacked up off the front bumper.
Ok thanks. The next size up will cost me 599.00. Wont spend that. How about for lifting up the front wheels then putting in the jackstands. If the stands are in place then if the 3 ton jack failed it would stay up on the stands.
I know you guys dont recommend it but in a pinch it would work?
And what about a bottle jack..rather than a floor jack? Whats best?
It seems to me back in the day everything was jacked up off the front bumper.
Okay, I was assuming bottle jack, which is why I stressed tipping. I do use a 3-ton floor jack ... and cross my fingers hoping it doesn't blow a seal. But, in most cases, I use bottle jacks, ranging from 6-ton to 50-ton, and place jacks stands as soon as there's enough clearance for them.
Regardless, always use jack stands with a plywood (or old rotor) base plate.
Yes, almost everything used bumper jacks ... which I kinda miss, even if they were more tipsy and tended to bust knuckles when you lowered the vehicle.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
* This post was edited 04/06/16 08:50pm by an administrator/moderator *
Will this calipre change go without any expected drama compared to a regular calipre change, like a regular car?
Will the calipre come off the rotor without taking off everything before it?
Thanks
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=C3........=!AC6BWkFxfx1QVVA&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg
Don't let the hub extender throw you. It's actually easier than many newer vehicles, like the 2004 Silverado 2500HD.
The picture is great! It looks like a fairly standard Kelsey-Hayes dual piston set-up. The two bolts on the caliper, visible in the picture, disconnect the caliper from mounting bracket behind the rotor. Take those out and the caliper lift off the rotors with no more difficulty than usual. (The calipers weigh quite a bit more than light truck calipers.)
I'd recommend changing the brake flex lines while you're at it. At about $10 each, it's a cheap improvement in reliability.
Is your brake booster mounted on the master cylinder? Or, do you have single or double frame-mounted brake booster(s), with slave cylinders? If frame-mounted, the bleed procedure will involve additional steps than you're probably used to.
BTW - you have the readily-available "high-hat" rotors, which is good. My '73 RM350 had the f'ing hard-to-find low hat rotors, which took almost two years to find replacements. (Amazingly, I found the replacements on Amazon, of all places.)
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
In one word, yes ... to both questions.
Don't let the hub extender throw you. It's actually easier than many newer vehicles, like the 2004 Silverado 2500HD.
The picture is great! It looks like a fairly standard Kelsey-Hayes dual piston set-up. The two bolts on the caliper, visible in the picture, disconnect the caliper from mounting bracket behind the rotor. Take those out and the caliper lift off the rotors with no more difficulty than usual. (The calipers weigh quite a bit more than light truck calipers.)
I'd recommend changing the brake flex lines while you're at it. At about $10 each, it's a cheap improvement in reliability.
Is your brake booster mounted on the master cylinder? Or, do you have single or double frame-mounted brake booster(s), with slave cylinders? If frame-mounted, the bleed procedure will involve additional steps than you're probably used to.
BTW - you have the readily-available "high-hat" rotors, which is good. My '73 RM350 had the f'ing hard-to-find low hat rotors, which took almost two years to find replacements. (Amazingly, I found the replacements on Amazon, of all places.)
In one word, yes ... to both questions.
Don't let the hub extender throw you. It's actually easier than many newer vehicles, like the 2004 Silverado 2500HD.
The picture is great! It looks like a fairly standard Kelsey-Hayes dual piston set-up. The two bolts on the caliper, visible in the picture, disconnect the caliper from mounting bracket behind the rotor. Take those out and the caliper lift off the rotors with no more difficulty than usual. (The calipers weigh quite a bit more than light truck calipers.)
I'd recommend changing the brake flex lines while you're at it. At about $10 each, it's a cheap improvement in reliability.
Is your brake booster mounted on the master cylinder? Or, do you have single or double frame-mounted brake booster(s), with slave cylinders? If frame-mounted, the bleed procedure will involve additional steps than you're probably used to.
BTW - you have the readily-available "high-hat" rotors, which is good. My '73 RM350 had the f'ing hard-to-find low hat rotors, which took almost two years to find replacements. (Amazingly, I found the replacements on Amazon, of all places.)
Thanks Griff. I guess the hub extender threw me off. I found the right caliper bought the smaller brake hose and got it all on bled the line no problems. Caliper was in stock readily available.
Sadly it still wont move likely due to the back brakes seizing after sitting 7 months in the west coast rain. The torque of the engine would not loosin anything.
Was really hoping for a better day.
It sits low and in a bad place to jack up the rear end.
Maybe on the weekend I'll try tugging it forward with my truck.
Any other suggestions would be awesome to free them up without removing the wheels.
Take care
PoorGary wrote:
Thanks Griff. I guess the hub extender threw me off. I found the right caliper bought the smaller brake hose and got it all on bled the line no problems. Caliper was in stock readily available.
Sadly it still wont move likely due to the back brakes seizing after sitting 7 months in the west coast rain. The torque of the engine would not loosin anything.
Was really hoping for a better day.
It sits low and in a bad place to jack up the rear end.
Maybe on the weekend I'll try tugging it forward with my truck.
Any other suggestions would be awesome to free them up without removing the wheels.
Take care
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
In one word, yes ... to both questions.
Don't let the hub extender throw you. It's actually easier than many newer vehicles, like the 2004 Silverado 2500HD.
The picture is great! It looks like a fairly standard Kelsey-Hayes dual piston set-up. The two bolts on the caliper, visible in the picture, disconnect the caliper from mounting bracket behind the rotor. Take those out and the caliper lift off the rotors with no more difficulty than usual. (The calipers weigh quite a bit more than light truck calipers.)
I'd recommend changing the brake flex lines while you're at it. At about $10 each, it's a cheap improvement in reliability.
Is your brake booster mounted on the master cylinder? Or, do you have single or double frame-mounted brake booster(s), with slave cylinders? If frame-mounted, the bleed procedure will involve additional steps than you're probably used to.
BTW - you have the readily-available "high-hat" rotors, which is good. My '73 RM350 had the f'ing hard-to-find low hat rotors, which took almost two years to find replacements. (Amazingly, I found the replacements on Amazon, of all places.)
In one word, yes ... to both questions.
Don't let the hub extender throw you. It's actually easier than many newer vehicles, like the 2004 Silverado 2500HD.
The picture is great! It looks like a fairly standard Kelsey-Hayes dual piston set-up. The two bolts on the caliper, visible in the picture, disconnect the caliper from mounting bracket behind the rotor. Take those out and the caliper lift off the rotors with no more difficulty than usual. (The calipers weigh quite a bit more than light truck calipers.)
I'd recommend changing the brake flex lines while you're at it. At about $10 each, it's a cheap improvement in reliability.
Is your brake booster mounted on the master cylinder? Or, do you have single or double frame-mounted brake booster(s), with slave cylinders? If frame-mounted, the bleed procedure will involve additional steps than you're probably used to.
BTW - you have the readily-available "high-hat" rotors, which is good. My '73 RM350 had the f'ing hard-to-find low hat rotors, which took almost two years to find replacements. (Amazingly, I found the replacements on Amazon, of all places.)
Thanks Griff. I guess the hub extender threw me off. I found the right caliper bought the smaller brake hose and got it all on bled the line no problems. Caliper was in stock readily available.
Sadly it still wont move likely due to the back brakes seizing after sitting 7 months in the west coast rain. The torque of the engine would not loosin anything.
Was really hoping for a better day.
It sits low and in a bad place to jack up the rear end.
Maybe on the weekend I'll try tugging it forward with my truck.
Any other suggestions would be awesome to free them up without removing the wheels.
Take care
Parking/emergency brake engaged? If so, the cables sometimes get corroded or frozen. (Frozen parking brake kept my '90 E-150 from moving at -30F ... even after releasing the brakes.) If so, try PB Blaster on the cable.
Alternatively, as a temporary "fix" to get it moved a short distance, open the rear wheel cylinder bleed valves and try moving the truck back and forth to see if the shoes pop loose. (Like trying to get unstuck from snow/ice/mud ... just don't shift quickly from forward to reverse or you risk damaging tranny & differential.)
If neither of these work, your only choice is to pull the drums and find out what seized.
Regardless, I'd plan on redoing the rear brakes before depending on them.
PoorGary wrote:
Thanks Griff. I guess the hub extender threw me off. I found the right caliper bought the smaller brake hose and got it all on bled the line no problems. Caliper was in stock readily available.
Sadly it still wont move likely due to the back brakes seizing after sitting 7 months in the west coast rain. The torque of the engine would not loosin anything.
Was really hoping for a better day.
It sits low and in a bad place to jack up the rear end.
Maybe on the weekend I'll try tugging it forward with my truck.
Any other suggestions would be awesome to free them up
without removing the wheels.
Take care
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
In one word, yes ... to both questions.
Don't let the hub extender throw you. It's actually easier than many newer vehicles, like the 2004 Silverado 2500HD.
The picture is great! It looks like a fairly standard Kelsey-Hayes dual piston set-up. The two bolts on the caliper, visible in the picture, disconnect the caliper from mounting bracket behind the rotor. Take those out and the caliper lift off the rotors with no more difficulty than usual. (The calipers weigh quite a bit more than light truck calipers.)
I'd recommend changing the brake flex lines while you're at it. At about $10 each, it's a cheap improvement in reliability.
Is your brake booster mounted on the master cylinder? Or, do you have single or double frame-mounted brake booster(s), with slave cylinders? If frame-mounted, the bleed procedure will involve additional steps than you're probably used to.
BTW - you have the readily-available "high-hat" rotors, which is good. My '73 RM350 had the f'ing hard-to-find low hat rotors, which took almost two years to find replacements. (Amazingly, I found the replacements on Amazon, of all places.)
In one word, yes ... to both questions.
Don't let the hub extender throw you. It's actually easier than many newer vehicles, like the 2004 Silverado 2500HD.
The picture is great! It looks like a fairly standard Kelsey-Hayes dual piston set-up. The two bolts on the caliper, visible in the picture, disconnect the caliper from mounting bracket behind the rotor. Take those out and the caliper lift off the rotors with no more difficulty than usual. (The calipers weigh quite a bit more than light truck calipers.)
I'd recommend changing the brake flex lines while you're at it. At about $10 each, it's a cheap improvement in reliability.
Is your brake booster mounted on the master cylinder? Or, do you have single or double frame-mounted brake booster(s), with slave cylinders? If frame-mounted, the bleed procedure will involve additional steps than you're probably used to.
BTW - you have the readily-available "high-hat" rotors, which is good. My '73 RM350 had the f'ing hard-to-find low hat rotors, which took almost two years to find replacements. (Amazingly, I found the replacements on Amazon, of all places.)
Thanks Griff. I guess the hub extender threw me off. I found the right caliper bought the smaller brake hose and got it all on bled the line no problems. Caliper was in stock readily available.
Sadly it still wont move likely due to the back brakes seizing after sitting 7 months in the west coast rain. The torque of the engine would not loosin anything.
Was really hoping for a better day.
It sits low and in a bad place to jack up the rear end.
Maybe on the weekend I'll try tugging it forward with my truck.
Any other suggestions would be awesome to free them up
without removing the wheels.
Take care
Thats that. Replaced front calipres and short hoses. Jacked up rear end and beat the **** out of the drums. Had the drivers side wheel break free then dropped it back down to the ground drove hard ahead freeing the other. Thanks Griff. I mean thanks!!
Still will camp but not sure what the road holds up ahead as we are retiring in 2017.
Happy Trails
Bill and Laurie
Regarding your LOT in Life: Build something on it ... or park your Dodge on it.">
Bill & Laurie
1976 Dodge Sportsman Midas Mini 226