z89101 wrote:
1978-79-1980 MB400 163" wheelbase 25 foot Skyline Lindy Dodge Motorhome bunkhouse and fold bunk model-
Does anyone have print media? Skyline staff has nothing. Years of query - nothing.
Ya see, the mb400 is 1978. The Skyline built it out in 79, on a chassis extended wheelbase (163") that never happened per Lindy records.
1978-79-1980 MB400 163" wheelbase 25 foot Skyline Lindy Dodge Motorhome bunkhouse and fold bunk model-
Does anyone have print media? Skyline staff has nothing. Years of query - nothing.
Ya see, the mb400 is 1978. The Skyline built it out in 79, on a chassis extended wheelbase (163") that never happened per Lindy records.
Unfortunately, what you've run into is part of the "adventure" of working on older vehicles. In general, it's harder to find solid information on older trucks than older cars and harder still to find information on older motorhomes. Likewise, it's harder to find information on older Fords than older Chevy's and harder still to find information on older Dodges.
Just because everyone says "they didn't do it" doesn't make it true. I can't count the number of people who've insisted Mother Mopar only put 383 cu. in. engines with two barrel carburetors in trucks. Yet, my '66 Dodge Polara had an OEM 383 with a 2V carb. (Even when faced with the actual car, build plate, and documentation, some people insisted "it can't be.")
In general, it's best to treat the chassis and coach as two separate issues when dealing with older motorhomes. The same coach layout, with minor modifications, can be put on chassis with different wheelbases. So, disregard the wheelbase and look for information on 25' Skyline Lindy's when you're dealing with coach issues, while keeping in mind the slight differences due to differing wheelbases.
On the other hand, the only difference between a shorter and longer wheelbase chassis is likely the length of the driveshaft. There may be other, relatively insignificant, differences but driveshaft length will be the most significant. (Longer driveshafts may be two-piece shafts, with a carrier bearing in the middle.)
This is why I keep stressing everyone should find and note the chassis VIN, rather than relying on just the VIN on the coach plate and/or registration.
In the case of the '73 RM350 chassis I'm using for MLP, the registration showed the VIN assigned by the coach manufacturer, which is different from the VIN stamped into the frame by Dodge. When I go to get a reconstituted title, I'll be using the chassis VIN assigned by Dodge, for which there is no legal record, thus saving myself a lot of legal hoops and hassles.
When it comes to older motorhomes, it's very unlikely you'll find a single good source of information on your motorhome. If you very lucky, you may find a few sources that, combined, give you most of the information your need. In most cases, you'll be just like the rest of us, ferreting out bits and pieces here and there.
Consider: Other than the Winnebagos, most motorhome manufacturers only sold, at most, a few hundred of any particular model and, in many cases, less than a dozen.
Also consider: Over the past 40 or so years, the motorhome industry has undergone considerable changes, with some coming and going while others are purchased/merged/consolidated into few brands. Every time there's a merger/purchase/consolidation, some of the old records are lost or discarded.
Finally, consider: Very few people and companies keep records on motor vehicle models that are more than a decade or two old. So, it's very likely any records that once existed are long gone, for older vehicles, especially within a very small market such as recreational vehicles.
In all likelihood, this thread on RV.NET is going to be your best source of information.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
I still have an ongoing brake problem that's gotten worse due to my habit of putting things off.
Several months back what appeared like a sticking front brake calliper came about where the only way to release it was to apply near full 440 force against it. Now today needing a propane fill and having to leave our site I found that even at full 440 power my motorhome won't move an inch. It feels like all brakes are locked... not just the front.
Is it possible a totally seized front brake calliper can prevent the motorhome from budging an inch??
PoorGary wrote:
Hello everyone.
I still have an ongoing brake problem that's gotten worse due to my habit of putting things off.
Several months back what appeared like a sticking front brake calliper came about where the only way to release it was to apply near full 440 force against it. Now today needing a propane fill and having to leave our site I found that even at full 440 power my motorhome won't move an inch. It feels like all brakes are locked... not just the front.
Is it possible a totally seized front brake calliper can prevent the motorhome from budging an inch??
Hello everyone.
I still have an ongoing brake problem that's gotten worse due to my habit of putting things off.
Several months back what appeared like a sticking front brake calliper came about where the only way to release it was to apply near full 440 force against it. Now today needing a propane fill and having to leave our site I found that even at full 440 power my motorhome won't move an inch. It feels like all brakes are locked... not just the front.
Is it possible a totally seized front brake calliper can prevent the motorhome from budging an inch??
Yes.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
IIRC, I saw a thread that recommended the front tires/wheels/brakes, be protected from water drainage (especially durning the 'off season'). I suspect this is especially true for coaches that have the offset wheels for the Dualies.
Short story: Yup, you get to free up the calipers. Sorry, it's a PITA.
Hoppe
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT
Brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it attracts and holds moisture.
This is why big trucks sometimes lose their brakes while going down long grades. When the brakes heat up due to extended braking, the water in the brake fluid turns to vapor (steam), which is the same as having air bubbles in the fluid. (i.e., the same as brakes that haven't been bled properly.) Experienced truckers, especially those in mountainous regions, use (engine) compression braking to help keep their speed under control by downshifting.
On long steep grades, instead of just trying to keep my speed down to 50-60 mph, I brake harder to slow down to 40, 30, or even 20 mph. Then, I release the brakes for a while (and allow speed to build up again) to allow the brakes to cool a bit before applying the brakes again.
The hydroscopic nature of brake fluid is why the cans have those frustrating metal/plastic seals under the caps. This is also why I dispose of cans of new brake fluid that have been opened for more than two or three months. I only buy quart/liter cans of fluid when I'm flushing and replacing brake fluid in a vehicle. Otherwise, I buy only the small cans by the case so I don't have to throw out a lot of new fluid that's been open for a while.
In cold temperatures, the water in the brake fluid can freeze and the ice crystals can block the lines and valves, preventing the brakes from working.
Alternatively, the water can cause corrosion in the system, which can build up and plug the lines and valves. (Bits of rubber from old, disintegrating flex lines can also build up and plug the system, which is why I also prefer to replace older flex lines, especially when I'm replacing the calipers/cylinders.)
BTW - Do NOT, repeat NOT, use alcohol to flush the brake system -- it WILL damage the seals in the system, leading to brake failure! Only use compressed air or, preferably, fresh brake fluid.
PoorGary - In your case, corrosion or ice crystal plugs could be keeping your calipers from releasing. In a few cases, when I've been "reviving" older trucks, I've had to use compressed air, blown backwards through the lines, to break loose contamination plugs. (This is a temporary fix -- I always replace all the brake lines when I encounter this situation.)
Try jacking up your front wheels, one at a time, and see if you can turn the wheels. If the wheels turn freely, your problem is elsewhere.
In interior Alaska, people never use the "parking" brake. (It's an emergency brake, not a parking brake.) In subzero temperatures, "parking" brakes tend to freeze, locking the rear brakes in the engaged position. This will keep a vehicle from moving. (Voice of experience, from twenty years ago ... and it took over four hours of careful heat application to thaw them without damaging anything.)
Instead, use wheel chocks if you don't feel the transmission parking cog is sufficient.
Alternatively, your torque converter could be going/gone out. (You have been changing your transmission fluid and filter regularly, right?) The symptoms you describe indicates this is a possibility. (Again, voice of experience, although not due to neglected maintenance.)
BTW - A518 torque converters in older Mopar vehicles tended to do this due to substandard material in the lockup clutches. (More recent and aftermarket torque converters usually have better clutch material.) In those cases, the disintegrated clutch material tended to plug up the transmission coolers, destroying the transmission by causing them to overheat.
As told to me many moons ago, what happens is that when you push on the brake pedal the fluid pushes toward the caliper or cylinder but when the brake pedal is released, the inside of the line collapses thereby keeping the caliper or cylinder in the compressed position .
Peace. ~RL
regis101 wrote:
Another point to consider is the rubber brake lines. They have been known to get gummy and/or soft on the inside.
As told to me many moons ago, what happens is that when you push on the brake pedal the fluid pushes toward the caliper or cylinder but when the brake pedal is released, the inside of the line collapses thereby keeping the caliper or cylinder in the compressed position .
Another point to consider is the rubber brake lines. They have been known to get gummy and/or soft on the inside.
As told to me many moons ago, what happens is that when you push on the brake pedal the fluid pushes toward the caliper or cylinder but when the brake pedal is released, the inside of the line collapses thereby keeping the caliper or cylinder in the compressed position .
Precisely ... that is another potential problem with old, deteriorating flex lines. (Brake flex lines is the name commonly used for the rubber brake lines.)
On most (all?) vehicles, there are three flex lines. One on each of the front wheels and a third on the rear axle. Typically, the two on the front wheels are connected directly to the calipers (front disk) or wheel cylinders (front drum). The one on the rear axle is connected to a tee (which often includes a rear axle vent), with hard lines going to each of the rear wheels.
The flex lines allow for suspension movement.
On vehicles with multiple rear axles (live or idler), there's a separate flex line for each rear axle.
Flex lines typically cost less than $10.00 USD each. So, for less than $30.00, you can replace all three.
Identical flex lines are often used across multiple year/make/models so they should be easy to find, even for older vehicles. (This commonality tends to be more true for older vehicles whereas more recent models tend to have greater variations.) Use chassis VIN to look up the correct lines.
In case you can't find the appropriate listing, competent parts store staff can help you find appropriate replacements by visually comparing yours to the ones in stock. (I found suitable replacements for a 30's era vehicle this way for a customer when I worked at CarQuest.)
The flare fitting at each end is a determining fact, in terms of thread size and pitch, as well as type of flare. Focus first on the connection to the calipers/wheel cylinders and hose length. The other end usually has the same means of attaching the hose to the frame hard lines, although the thread/flare may differ from that of the hard lines. In that case, use a brass adapter fitting to make things work.
In the worst case, if you're unable to find the correct part numbers, let me know and I'll use my resources to try to find the correct parts. However, please try to find the parts yourself first. I'm really busy but I don't mind helping someone as long as they've made a attempt to help themselves. (If they just throw up their hands and turn to me first, I tend to charge -- a lot -- for my services ... if I even bother.)
On really old vehicles, with clearly corroded fittings, I often spend up to a week letting PH Blaster or Kroil soak in and unfreeze the connection. Usually, this involves one to three re-applications per day, with gentle rapping on the fitting to help the solvent soak in.